Report: 1/35 of the most important of the folk performing art Haji Ichiryu Saibara Kagura 土師一流催馬楽神楽

Date:   1st January, 14th February, 10th April, 10th October, and day of “Tori” in December, every year
Location: Washinomiya shrine Washinomiya, Kuki city, Saitama prefecture
How to get there: It takes 10 minutes from Washinomiya station (Tobu Isezaki line)

 ※This kagura is consisted of 12 programs.

 ※This kagura is one of 35 an important Intangible Folk Cultural Heritage by Japanese national government.

two maked dancers

Introduction

 This kagura is called “the source of Kanto kagura” (Kanto is located in center of Honshu which is main island of Japan, and is the generic name of seven prefectures). In addition, this is one of the country designation important intangible cultural asset which there is 35.
 ”Sada shinno” originally started in Shimane prefecture. A Shinto priest of Sada shrine learned Noh in Kyoto about the beginning of 17th Century, and made a new kagura (so called Sada Shinno) baced on the Noh style. This kagura is known for a distinctive element. That’s the dancer is holding thing (bell, sacred staff with cut paper (heisoku 幣束), or a sakaki leaf and so on). This style of kagura started to be called “Izumo style ” and spread out in the whole country before long. This shrine is where Izumo style was accepted first. So it is called “the source of Kanto kagura”.
 But the first document of the kagura in this shrine was recorded in about the middle of 13th century. We don’t know whether this kagura is the same kagura of today.

washinomiya station
Washinomiya station

around the shrine

 I went to Washinomiya shrine on 1st January, 2015.
 Kuki city is located in Saitama orefecture, population of about 150,000. It is not very big town. It takes about 1 hour from Tokyo by Ueno-Tokyo lune (JR), changing at Kuki to Tobu line, next station being Washinomiya station.
 Washinomiya shrine is about a 10 minute-walk from Washinomiya station. We cross a red bridge on the way to the shrine. It like a cnnection between the sacred place and the regular world.

animation costume player

the stage

 The shrine became a holy ground of animation films in these days. so we can see many persons who wear costumes of animation characters. We can find a middle-aged man who puts on a blond wig wearing sailor uniform (high school girls style ) and skirt among them. You guess that it is quite a surreal scene. Even if it is not so, this shrine is the core of faith in this area. The number of people that gathered exceeded 400,000 in there days. The shrine is quiet in usual times, but only for three days, it becomes really crowded.

First half

 On those days, people make a long lines to pray, I passed by them and ran to the hall (kagura-den) where kagura was being performed.

first program on the stage (Japanese traditional performing art, kagura

 the kagura was going to start about 10 or 10:30. When I arrived at about 11:00. The kagura had already started. The kagura-den is front of the Hon-den (main hall). So many people were there, but nobody was looking at the kagura. The audience seemed to be no more than 20 persons.
 On the stage, there were one masked man and two girls. The mask showed an old man smiling gently. He dance slowly holding a bell and sacred staff with cut paper (heisoku 幣束). This kagura’s feature was in a ceremonial manner with hardly any dramatic representation.

a masked chracter

a masked character

on the stage

a girl on the stage

 I guessed from the title that this program represented at the famous scene of Japanese mythology, “Amano iwato biraki” (see to “Reference/Japan mythology). In “Amano iwato biraki” all deities are pleased when “Amaterasu” (she is a deity of sun) comes out from where she was hidden in a big door of rock. But, it is difficult to understand such a state only by seeing it. It is significant to appease the Earth in every direction by the swinging the bell. This program took about 30 minutes.

a masked character in front of a bridge

 Next program is “Hakagura“. This program is where two girls dance swinging a bell. When this program is played, people sitting on the stage play music “Saibara”.”Saibara” is a popular music in Heian period (9~10 C). When we listen to these music, we don’t feel such elements. The oldest music is called “Gagaku”. I feel this music like “Gagaku”faster in tempo. I don’t know if these music remain completely at the time, but I am filled with deep emotion. I think it worth listening to once at least because you would feel the life of ancient Japanese.

two masked players

Izanagi
Izanagi

Izanami
Izanami

two people are playing kagura(Japanese traditional folk performing art)

 Next program is based on Japanese mythology, too. This mythology says in the beginning of time, two deities, named “Izanagi” and “Izanami” gave birth this country. So, a mobile bridge is set on a stage and two players dance across the bridge. The male deity dances powerfully, the female deity dances with grace.While changing their positions they dance around a stage. This program ended at about half past 12. Then there was an intermission.

Intermission

the shrine

 There were many food stalls in the shrine precinct. After I ate lunch, I found a place where people were being fire using metal barrel. This area was surrounded by a double fence, and some people were direct cuttlefish. I thought it was a good system. Only people who bought, direct dried cuttlefish could enter in front of the fire. I saw quite a lot of people buying cuttlefish.

Second half

 Meanwhile the kagura started again at 2 o’clock.
 First program, two little girls were dancing hoiding a bell. It was short.

two girls are dnacing

 Next program was based on mythology,too. When the grandson of “Amaterasu (a deity of sun)”, “Ninigi” goes down from his country “Amatsu kuni” to this earth, two deities got married with the meditation of “Ninigi”. One is a chaperon of Ninigi, named “Ameno Uzume“, and is a deity who had waited Ninigi’s group and led this coutry to safty, mnamed “Sarutahiko“.

two players are on the stage of kagura (Japanese traditional folk performing art)

masked player of Kagura
Sarutahiko

masked player of kagura (Japanese traditional folk performing art)
Ameno Uzume

ameno uzume

sarutahiko

 So, two dancers enter the stage. One wore a red face mask with long -high nose, and another wore a female mask. The dancer with the red mask is “Sarutahiko”, and the other is “Ameno Uzume”. Sarutahiko held a pike, and Ameno Uzume held a big staff which red pieace of paper. Two dancers faced each other across the bridge, changing their position like the program of “Izanagi and Izanami”. This kagura basically consists of such dancing.
 It ended at 2:20.

3 players onthe stage of kagura (Japanese traditional performing art)

a maske player

a maske player

a masked player

 After short break, next program started. Three dancers each wore a mask of “okina” (old man) with long mustache and beard. They each held fans, and danced slowly making a circle. It is said that it is to express a prayer for a peace of the world.

 After 30 minutes, the whole program for today ended.
 If you are interested in old style kagura, I recommended to watch this “Saibara kagura”. You can definitely see a noble and elegant dance program.

     For more information
 This kagura is held at “Washinomiya shrine (branch shrine)”, 15th April. It is at “Hachiho, Washinomiya town”.




Report: Strange parade – Lion Dance in Ogawaji 小川寺の獅子舞

the parade of Japanese traditional folk performing art
strange parade of variants in Ogawaji, Uozu cuty

Date 4th January, 12th March, and 12th October pm 2:00~
Location Senkoji-temple, Ogawaji, Uozu city , Toyama prefecture
How to get there It takes 20 minutes from Toyama station or Unazuki-kurobe station

Toyam prefecture
Toyama prefecture 富山県

Uozu city
Uozu city 魚津市

Introduction

 An event we’ll look at this time is “Lion Dance in Ogawaji”.
 This event is held on March 12th (and other days) in Uozu city in Toyama prefecture. Toyama prefecture is very prosperous region of Lion Dance, the performed number is over 850 now. There are a significant number of various kinds, and there are 10 main kinds we can break down into 3 categories. In that, the Ogawaji Lion Dance is classified as “Gyoudo Shishi” (Lion guiding the way), it follws the traditionl style.
 I went to see this event in 2018. The following is from then.

 If you want to go to Uozu ciity, you have two options, Shinkanswen or express bus.
*in all of the above routes, the starting point is from Tokyo
 In the case of a train, from Tokyo you will take the Shinkansen to KUrobe Unzuki-onsen (黒部宇奈月温泉), transfer Toyama local line (Dentetsu Toyama; bound for Dentetsu Toyama (電鉄富山) station , for Shin Uozu(新魚津) station.
It takes about 2~3 hours and costs about \ 14,000. If you take a bus, from Tokyo to Toyama station, and transfer to the local line (Ai no Kaze Toyama あいの風富山) line; bound for Tomari 泊) and stop at Uozu station. The Uozu station is in front of Shin-Uozu station. It takes 8 hours and costs about \ 8,000). After arriving in Uozu city, you can take local bus (Kurosawa 黒沢 line) and get off at Ogawaji bus stop. But, there is only one bus every 2 hours, if you take a bus, you must get on a bus at 11:50, Kurosawa line (as of January 2020).

Tokyo station
Tokyo station 東京駅

a Shinkansen
Shinkansen  新幹線

 When I went to this event, I took a Shinkansen at 9:38 (from Tokyo). the Shinknasen crossed Honshu, by way of the still snowy Nagano prefecture, after a little over 2 hours, I arrived at about 12 o’clock.

a iew of Nagano

Shin Kurobe station
Shin Kurobe station 新黒部駅
is front of Kurobe Unzauki Onsen

Dentetsu Toyama line
Dentetsu Toyama line 電鉄富山線

front of Uozu station
front of Uozu station

In Uozu city

 The event starts at 2:00. The next bus will leaves at 12:38 (as in 2018). I had a little time, so I stopped by the tourist information center. A person working there was very kind and loved the city. I got a lot of information and many booklets. I heard that it’s about 4 kilometers from here to Ogawaji and road is flat. I decided to rent a bicycle. All are electric assist bicycle which are available from the information center, it costs \ 100~300.

Uozu city and Tateyama mountain range
Uozu city and Tateyama mountain range

a rant bicycle

 It’s very fine, but the air is cold and feel chilly. Is this because it was still March or because this was Toyama? I was comfortable cycling, while seeing the snowy Tateyama mountain range. The city is very calm.

a road to Ogawaji
a road to Ogawaji

Senkoji-temple
Senkoji temple 千光寺

Senkoji-temple

The Kannon-do
The Kannondo 観音堂

 I wonder, if I run some 2~30 minutes, I might finally arrive at the destination. It is the “Senko-ji temple”. There are steps for the “Kannon-do hall” right next to the building.

the Hakusan shrine
The Hakusan shrine 白山社

a strange man

 The precincts of the Kannon-do hall are unexpectedly large. About 2~30 people already were as if surrounding the Kannon-do hall. The neighboring building is the Hakusa shrine. As for the men, while the women gather in the Hakusan shrine, the men gather in Kannondo hall. In the Kannon-do hall a priest gives sutra-chanting, and Shinto priesthood gives a congratulatory address in the Hakusan shrine. This is a rare event, mixing Buddhism and Shintoism. In Japan, originally, the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism was widely seen from the Heian period (9~10 C) until the Meiji restoration (1968), and Shinto and Buddhism were not distinguished from each other as a general rule. Therefore a trace is sometimes still seen in this way.

 A group is going to do seven laps here. On that day, the event was going to begin at 2:00 pm, but it was half past 2 and it started at 3:00 after all. A Buddhist priest seemed to be late for a funeral.

strange men at the shrine

before parade

 I looked at some strange people who come up the stairs between some trees. It may be finally beginning. First, they stopped at the Hakusan shrine 白山社 and gathered at the foot of the steps, they then received purification of the Shinto priesthood. Several children who hold the flags stood up. With them in the lead, a parade begin.

The parade has began

the parade has started

Tengu,a lead of the parade
Tengu 天狗

 Strange people appeared with flute and drums before us who were wating. At first, it is Tengu 天狗. The kind look that some mind seems to be weak here through Tengu is severe or it is a scary image. He come while jump up and down lightly.

many strange men

baba-men (masked character)
baba-men ばば面

 They walk with their hands and feet at same time. Next, two people following Tengu walk towards the same direction. They don’t jump, instead of push their hand up front powerfully with one step forward while glaring at front. They are called “baba-men(mask)”. Further more, they wear distinctive clothes characteristic. One is the pants of the striped pattern on showy clothes, and another is all striped. And after all, to catch the eyes is a strange headpiece. It seems like a crown. I have never seen anything like that. It is not Japanese -style at all. Where did this design come from?

the lion

the lion
Chinese Lion (Shishi) 獅子

 Next comes a lion. Even though I call a lion, this is a Chinese legendary creature, it is totally different from the real animal. Japanese call them Kara-jishi (Chinese Lion). In Japan, there are many folk performing art about this Chinese lion. They are called Lion Dance. Lion Dance has various kinds. In this Ogawaji, it is the oldest style. They are only walking. Though, it’s very tough to walk while lowering the body. Older men say that they cannot walk for a muscular.

anema-mask

an anema mask
anema-men (mask) あねま面

 And the lion following is a woman called “Anema”. She is coiffured old style and mouth bends for some reason and is walking while raising a sleeve by one step. And flute players, drum players and portable shrine. Though they say portable shrine (mikoshi 神輿), they pull it on a carriage. It is difficult for a few people to carry it on shoulder, so it become today’s style. They decided to concider it to walk around 7 laps for walk around all town.

mikoshi
mikoshi 神輿

a tale of the parade

 This event is only they repeat this 7 times. It seems very strange.

 

Tengu

baba-men

baba-men

anema

 Legend saya that both “baba-men” and “anema” was old heros and heroine. Name was Morimoto Sanemon, Joudou Rokubei and Omatsu. They fight with next village or avaricious feudallord. But now, we do not know the merely true meaning. Only this strange event has remained today.

parade is braaking

wating

a Shinto priest

many starange people

 A break time enters once on the way. They sit in front of Kannon-do, Shinto priest read a long address to the deities. After this, they walk aronud again.

Tengu

baba-men

the lion

 After they finished laps, they came back to the starting place, under the Hakusan shrine. The event is finished.

a parade
a strange man (masked character)

tengu and anema

 At the event, they accept taking a ceremonial photograph.
 Totally about 30 minutes, this event had finished.

 If you want to video, please click here.↓

   for your information
http://go-centraljapan.jp/lsc/lsc-upfile/pamphlet/01/33/133_1_file.pdf Pocket Guide Uozu

 If you have some time, I recommend sightseeing around Toyama. The place where there are old cityscapes, hot springs and natural. There are many places for sightseeing.

world heritage “Gokayama”

castle and park

natural “Kurobe”

old town “Kanaya”

evry pictures from https://www.info-toyama.com/spot/21100/ Toyama prefecture とやま観光ナビ 

  Reference
https://foreign.info-toyama.com/en/ Tourism information in Toyama




Report: Namahage Sedo Festival (Matsuri) なまはげ柴灯祭り

なまはげ
Let’s go to Oga!

Date         18:00 ~past 20:00, second weekend (Friday~Sunday), Feburuary every year,
Location       Shinzan shrine, Oga city in Akita prefecture
How to get there  Refer to the following

Introduction

 Even if you are interested in Namahage, it is still difficult to see a real. Ritual of Namahage involve visiting a personal house, so you must gain access to the house. But if you want to see Namahage, the best approach is to visit to “Oga Shinzan Denshokan” or go to the festival, “Namahage Sedo Matsuri”. The “Oga Shinzan Denshokan” reproduces ritual every day on time.

秋田県
Akita prefecture

男鹿半島
Oga region

 This time, I’ll introduce the “Namahage Sedo Matsuri” (word of matsuri means festival).
 This festival is held on the second weekend of February in Akita prefecture. I went to Sunday last year (2019). I will descrive at that time.

 Firast, we have three ways to approach Akita, one is by Shinkansen (it costs about \15,000~20,000). Second is by airplane (it costs about \20,000~35,000), third is by express bus (it costs about \6,000~10,000). I don’t recommende the airplane in this case, because price is high and it takes long time beside. Shinkansen takes about 5~6 hours; airplane takes 1 hour (plus bus for about 40 minutes) and express bus takes about 10 hours. I took a night bus when I went there.
 *In all of the above routes, the starting point is from Tokyo.

秋田駅 バス

雪の秋田駅

 In the morning, about 8:00, I arrived at Akita station. When I got off the bus, the town was covered with snow. Snow continued falling until afternoon that day. It hardly ever snows in Tokyo in winter, but the Sea of Japan side has many deep snow district. If you want to go,you may need to take snow shoes. Main street is cleaned, but when you enter one step inside, the backstreets, they are covered with fresh snow especially on side steps. Whenever you put your foot on the snow, your feet would slide into the snow up to your ankles. It is hard to walk. I walked putting my feet in somebody’s footprints. I remembered it took longer than I imaged.

秋田市メインストリート
main street

脇道
back street

秋田駅

秋田駅のなまはげ
Namahage face in Akita station

 Akita station has a shopping center. You can look for sops to eat foods and keep yourself warm. And you may be surprised to find many goods of Namahage, not only in the the souvenir shops but all over the town. We can know that Namahage in Oga region only but it is an important tourist attraction for all Akita.

町のなまはげ像

街のなまはげポスター

Neburi Nagashi Hall

 The festival will start from 6 pm. It takes about 1 hour from Akita station to Oga station by train and 40 minutes from Oga station to the festival venue bu bus. So if you have time, though it is fine to stay in the waiting room of the station, I recommend two places. One is the “Akita City Minzoku Geino Densho-kan” (Neburinagashi hall). “Neburi Nagashi” is one of the most famous festival in Japan. It is called “Akita Kanto Matsuri”. This festival held in August every year.

ねぶり流し館
neburi-nagashi-kan

竿灯祭り模型
kanto 竿灯

 Kantoh are wooden poles with many lanterns. The top of the pole is 15 meters high and the total weight is approximately 50 kilograms. Performers balance it by putting it on their hnads, foreheads, waists or shoulders. You can see the Kantoh and performance on time everyday and also exoerience it. In addition, the entertainment of Akita city is introduced, too.

番楽面

番楽
traditional entertainment

 Another place is the Akita Museum of Art. The main exhibit is the painting by Tsuguharu Fujita, called “Ritual in Akita” (height 3.65 m, width 20.50 m). This painting is worth watching it at least once. You might be overwhelmed by the power and technique. I think it is not an exaggeration to stay this museum was built for this piece of art.

Yamahage

 After leaving the museum, I entered the next building. At that time, I encountered a mysterious monster man by accident.

やまはげ

やまはげ
yamahage

 He had long golden hair, and a big wooden face like an ogre. He wore deep blue clothes (Japanese Kimono) and was walking slowly. I was surprised and took a picture quickly. He stopped in front of me. I think he glared at me. But I noticed soon the man stopped to pose for me, because another man came beside holding a flag. On the flag the word “Yamahage” was written. After taking a picture, I heard about “Yamahage”.

やまはげ

やまはげ

 The man holding a flag told me that ‘yamahage’ is a sacred visitor like ‘Namahage’ at Maesato town in Akita city. Just like Namahage, Yamahage visits each house in the town at the end of year. Tourists can watch them. I didn’t know about Yamahage. There are things we can’t know unless we actually visit the place. This accident was lucky for me.

秋田市なまはげ看板

なまはげ面

Akita station again

 Time has come. I went to buy the ticket to go to the Oga station by special train. This train will leave at 15:39 from Akita, and arrive at 16:29 at Oga. But, surprisingly, all were sold out. I guess I was too optimistic. Unavoidably, I took the next scheduled train one hour later. Like the proverb goes, “When one door shuts another opens”, while sitting in the waiting room, Namahage suddenly emerged in the concourse of the station.

駅のなまはげ(青)

駅のなまはげ(赤)

 I didn’t know why they emerged. People were surprised, and a foreigner was taking a picture curiously. I decided to think this was a gift from the sky.

男鹿線への通路
entrance to Oga line

男鹿線
a train of Oga line

Oga

男鹿駅

男鹿駅のなまはげ

男鹿駅外観

          Oga station

駅前

オガール

 It was 16:30 when I arrived in Oga station. From here we must get on a bus. In front of the station, there is a roadside station “Ogarl”. The shuttle bus to the venue was waiting in front of it, and guides were leading the passengers from station entrance to the bus stop. Not only in the station but also over the window of Ogarl, Namahage glared at us. I can feel this is their home. I couldn’t look into the Ogarl unfortunately. This bus doesn’t run on a fixed schedule. If the bus is full, it will start one by one. It costs \770 (as of 2020).

シャトルバス

バス風景

  While looking over the earth all at white, after about one hour, we arrived at the parking area.

駐車場
parking area

駐車場から
road to shrine

Namahage Hall

  From here, passengers must walk to the venue of the festival “Shimzan shrine”. The snow on the ground was already trodded down on and was firm. It is easiest walk than in the city despite the fear of slipping.

なまはげ館入り口

なまはげ館ポスト

 On the way to the Shinzan shrine, there is the “Namahage-kan“. If you have time, you should drop by it. In this place , you can see everything about Namahage. The history, various masks and so on. The highlights are many statue of Namahage. There are 100. If you come into this place, you will be speechless and just stand still.

なまはげ

やまはげ面

なまはげ館内部

なまはげ

なまはげ面(福川)

なまはげ

なまはげ

なまはげ面

なまはげ

なまはげ

なまはげ

なまはげ

 And you will know that Namahage images are not only one. There are no two statues that are the same. Once upon a time, Japanese famous artist, Taro Okamoto praised its primitive power. You will understand it with marvel. And there is also a rich array of goods of Namahage. At this time, its 6 o’clock. We have no more time. The festival has already started. Let’s hurry about. 

Shinzan shrine

参道

神社入り口
entrance of shrine

 After giving a considerable offering of money (\ 1,000) at the entrance, you enter the Shinzan shrine. It was full of people. Looking over this place, there is a main hall of the shrine (called ‘sha-den’, or ‘hon-den’) in the front of the entrance. If you turn to the left, the other side is a ‘Kagura-den’, and in the center of the open space there is a fire burning. This is called “Sedo-bi”. Behind the main hall, sha-den, is a mountain. A big screen is set. And two staircase stands are set. One is set in front of the sha-den, and another is beside the kagura-den. It costs \ 1,000.

階段

神社
hon-den

立ち見席
staircase type stands

大型ビジョン

 When I reviewed it here, this festival was originally divided into two rituals. One is the Namahage ritual and another is the ceremony at Shinzan shrine. This is called Saito festival. During Saito festival, Shinto priests burn a fire (it is called Saito) and broil rice cakes. Then they give them to ogres instead of humans. Priests did it like that and appeased ogres. These rituals were gathered to make a tourist industory in 1960′, it has continued until today.

なまはげ入魂

なまはげ帰山

 When I arrived, the ceremony of “Namahage nyuukon” was about to begin. The ceremony is goes as follws. A Shinto priest loads masks with soul and hand them over to young men. The young men who are given masks of Namahage wear masks and step on foot and sound it. They changed to a messenger of deity. While many people stare, young men wear masks and step their feet making lots of sounds. They changed into Namahage. After this ceremony, they went over the mountain once. So I moved to the front of the Kagura-den. Many people moved with excitment, rushing to the front.

Namahage ceremony

digest vol.1

digest vol.2

なまはげ行事

なまはげ行事

 In Kagura-den, the ritual event reproduction was going to just begin.
 At first, the manager comes in and tells the master of family that it is almost time for Namahage to arrive. Before long, the outside becomes noisy, and two Namahages appear. They stamped their feet on the entrance and cry with loud voices.
“Aren’t there crying children?”
 They are indeed powerful, so the crying of the child happen early. When looking at them, surely, they are seen to be somewhat arrogant but in fact, they are very polite and behave property. Manners are decided according to a rule. For example, when they enter a house, they stamped feet on the ground seven times, when they sit down before dining, three times, and when they leave, five times.

なまはげ行事

なまはげ行事

 After displaying the proper manners they sit down, they greet each other. Laughter happens from the audience in the gap. At first, the master treats Namahage with liquor.

なまはげ行事

なまはげ行事

“This is good sake !”
“It comes from Akita Komachi.”
“Akita Komachi ? That explains why it is delicious sake.”
 Akita Komachi is a brand name of rice. As is expected, it is Namahage. They don’t forget to advertise Akita.
“By the way, are there not children who do bad things or the bride not lazy ?”
“No, there are not. Grandchildren are working hard and help the family. I hear the bride is working well fortunately.”
“It’s OK, but is it true ? Don’t you protect them ?”
“No”
“We always see all from the mountain and we write in this account book.”
 While saying so, he takes a book and opens it.
“The book says that grandchildren always play games, not study….”
 Laughter happens again.
“No,no. They are good children and my bride work better than nyone.”
 Master intercedes desperately.

 Let it be revealed from here, Namahage is not only attraction. The ceremony was intended to demonstrate the father’s authority as the head of the family by exorcising demons and strengthening unity of the family.

なまはげ行事

なまはげ行事

 Would they understand it for the time being, Namahages stand up and stamped their feet on the ground three times according to the rule.
“If you re lazy, we will take you out to the mountain !”
“Hey master, If you find lazy people , clap your hands three times. We will come down immediately from the mountain.”
 They said so, and left noisy and wildly.

Namahage dance and drum

なまはげ踊り

なまはげ踊り

 After ritual reproduction, the Namahage dance starts in front of the fire in the center of the avenue.Terribly sounding two Namahages who hold a big kitchen knife and a wooden pail dance with jumping or turning. It finished after five minutes.

なまはげ太鼓

なまはげ太鼓

When it is over, the next program is prepared in the Kagura-den again. Several Japanese drums “Taiko” were set, and a Chinese gong “Dora” sounds portentously. The Namahages drum begin. While two women beat drums, several Namahage emerge. They shout loudly, stamp on the floor with their feet, and are graring at the audience. And their raise arms in a pretentious state, they gradually begin begin to drum.

なまはげ太鼓

なまはげ太鼓

なまはげ太鼓

They move violently and intensely. Lights change from red to blue, and green or other colors. That scene is enough to invite audiences to this fantastic world. This event lasts about 10 minutes. The performing group are change every day. Today’s performer are “Onga”. Yesterday was “Ogakko”.

Namahage go down

なまはげ下山

なまはげ下山

なまはげ下山

“Oh,Oh” loud voices echo in the dark mountain, before long the fire of torch can be seen between trees. One emerges ana two or three…the number s are increasing. Many Namahages decent from a mountain. The biggest highllight begins.
“Aren’t there crying children ?”
“Aren’t there lazy brides ?”
“If we find such person, we have to tear off their ‘namoni’ !”

なまはげ下山

なまはげ通り

なまはげ通り

 Namahages walk around the venue while boring their way through the crowd. When they came in front of stair-type stands, they stamp their feet on the ground . There is a legend that states, if a person picks up straw which fell from Namahage’s cape, the person will take fortune, people get into a fight luckily.The place is extremely crowded.

なまはげ餅

なまはげ餅

 While people are still excited, the next program starts. In front of “Hon-den”, Shinto priests give a rice cake broiled to Namahage. This program combined originally Shinzan shrine’s ceremony and ritual of Namahage that people give some rice cakes to Namahage when they leave. It is done here on purpose, when Namahages are irritated without being able to really receive holly rice cakes. By as by Namahages took rice cakes, and came back to the mountain.

Ending

里のなまはげ

里のなまはげ

里のなまはげ

 At last, “Sato-no”namahage break into avenue. “Sato-no-Namahage” means Namahage of each regions in Oga peninsula. Namahages with various faces walk around. We can take a picture with them. So one person goes together with one Namahage, if you are alone, you can ask to take a picture with Namahage. In addition, you can place some rice cake s in front of “Kagura-den”. It is now about 8 o’clock.

里のなまはげ

里のなまはげ

 We must return soon. When I want to the bus parking area, there were several long lines for waiting for the bus. One will go to Oga station, another will go to Oga onsen (hot spring) or each hotel. But you don’t have to worry. The bus will reach the station on time. In the train to Akita station, I felt that people were still excited and satisfied. The train is filled with Fantastic memories.




Namahage – The most famous ogre in Japan

なまはげ
Namahage

  Well, we’ll pick up “Namahage”, today.

about “Namahage Sedo Festival”→Namahage sedo Festival

  ”Namahage” is the most famous traditional character in Japan. At the end of 2018, it was added to the UNESCO intangible Culture Heritage List, as one of the group of ‘visiting deity’ folk rituals. Namahage has long hair and a demonic face, the eyes shine glitteringly, two big tusks overhang from its big mouth. It wears a traditional cape (mino 簔), holding a big kitchen knife and a wooden pail. They come from the mountains to their territory’s village at New Year Eve, in snow. Namahage walk around a village, suddenly knock on a door and get into the house while screaming “Aren’t there any crying children?” “Aren’t there any lazy person?” Children run about to escape and hide behind parents while crying out in a loud manner. Namahage will try to catch them. For children, they are real nightmares

なまはげ行事

  Are Namahage demons? Are they messengers from the world of Satan? The answer is “No”. The people of this region accept them with pleasure. They recognize them as a messenger bringing regional fortune. The people treat Namahage politely with a feast with sake.

Where is Oga ?

  These demonic beings emerge in the Oga peninsula of Akita prefecture.

秋田県

Akita prefecture

男鹿半島

Oga peninsula

 The Oga Peninsula is isolated from the other area especially in winter because its three sides are surrounded by the sea and another side is wash land. Akita prefecture is known as a deep-snow district, cold winds blowing from the Sea of Japan. People must cooperate with each other to overcome severe natural environments. No man must be lazy. Namahage, therefore, emerge from mountains to admonish people not to neglect hard work. The targets of Namahage are newcomers in this region, children or new wives (husbands) to teach the rule of this region.

Sacred visitor

  In the word Namahage’s “hage” (“hagu”) means ‘tear off’. People believe that warming at a fire for long time cause to create a callus. In this region, people call it “namomi” or “namami”. Namahage come to tear it off. Namahage “hagu” (tear off) “namomi (callus). Similar events are all over Japan. People call this callus in each region, “namomi”, “nagame”, “nagomi” etc. For example, there is “Nagomihagi” (in another region of Akita), “Amamehagi” (in Noto peninsula of Ishikawa) and so on. We will introduce them someday in this site.

Legend

  What is the origin of Namahage? Today, several legend have been handed down. Mainly there are three. One is that Wu, the emperor of Han (Han is a old name of China, about 2nd century BC) came in this region with five ogres. People say the long steps which lead five shrines named “Goshado” in this district were built by three ogres.The second legend is that a foreigner drifted here and stored to live in the mountains. The third legend is that “Shugenja”, a monk who leads an ascetic life in the mountain sometimes came down to the village. The figure of the person seemed to like an ogre. Many legends have been handed down, but unfortunately, we have no sure evidence. In any case, we suppose that someone came into the village from the mountain or sea in ancient times. When did it begin? The oldest source is recorded in 1811 (Edo period) by Sugae Masumi (菅江真澄)who was a traveler around the northern region of Japan. But popular folk events are not officially recorded, so we can’t know for sure.

五社堂
Goshado 五社堂
from https://thegate12.com/spot/463 the gate

菅江真澄の本
Sugae Msumi’s(菅江真澄) record
from https://www.namahage-oga.akita.jp/english/ Oga town

  The ritual of Namahage is carried out in at least 80 regions. In its heyday, there were 140 regions, but now numbers are decreasing. Here are some reason I guess. Population decrease, Lifestyle of people have changed and so on. But we can’t help but wish this special ritual for children doesn’t heyday vanish.

Refer→”Namahage Sedo matsuri” about namahage more information https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/02/07/namahage-sedo-matsuri/