Nitayama and Hagino serow dance in Shinjo festibal



Date: 26 August, every year
Location: 6-86 Horibatamachi, Shinjo, Yamagata 6-86 Tozawa 戸澤 Shrine Gokoku 護国 Shrine and Minami Honcho Crossroads
Access: About 1 hr 15 mins on the Yamagata 山形 Line from Yamagata.
3 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen approx. 2+ hours from Sendai 仙台 (conventional line)
By air from Yamagata Airport and Shonai 庄内 Airport.
Highway night bus, etc.

Article based on reports from August 26, 2017

the other worldly creatures

People are always attracted to the other worldly creature. In Western paintings, angels always look the same, whereas demons are diverse and always fascinating. Legends of fairies and spirits are ubiquitous. The Japanese have used a very rich and varied imagination when it comes to such things. In Japan, ‘yokai’ is a major content. Most Noh plays, for example, consist of dialogues with ghosts and other forms. And it’s the same at festivals. At this moment, the deities, like monstrous creatures and like yokai are active.

Two distinctive Deer dance

The deer dance presented here is from Shinjo, Yamagata Prefecture, in the western part of the Tohoku region. On the west side of Tohoku region, there are variety of Deer dances, which is different from the east side. Why have various dances been handed down in Yamagata Prefecture? The reason is the history of this land.

End of Mogami clan

Yamagata Prefecture region was once ruled by the powerful Mogami clan. The Mogami family is the hero of the Tohoku region, along with the Date family in the east. Unfortunately, however, after the death of the hero Yoshiaki, a succession problem arose and the Mogami family decrease their rank in the Tokugawa shogun system. After this, the Tokugawa family divided its vast territory into smaller feudal lords, so the performing arts were handed down in a more varied form than in the west (Iwate and Miyagi prefectures).

Features and visual

Nitayama 仁田山

Hagino 萩野

Nitayama and Hagino are neighbors in the same city of Shinjo. Since the area is adjacent, they are almost same, except for the costumes and the masks. Its appearance looks more like a deer, another creature rather than a lion. It is handed down in the region that it was modelled on a serow. While Nitayama’s costumes are more colorful, Hagino’s look more folk-like. In particular, the black cloth that protects the feet reminds us of those worn by travelers in the past. Even today, sometimes agricultural workers wear them. The performer covers his entire body with a thin curtain and beats a small drum on his belly. The drum has a long arm-like object. The group consists of seven members, one in the middle is the leader, and the other six members are divided into three on each side.

Two singers stand with umbrella-covered at the rear. They have an instrument called sasara.

The other two members have sasara, an instrument made of bamboo that is rubbed together to produce a sound, and are in charge of singing. The lyrics of the song are the same in both groups. They also have a banner on their backs with the name of each place. Others have the words ‘five days of wind’ and ‘ten days of rain’ dyed on them. This comes from the legend that when each of these occurs, a good harvest will result.

Flow of performance

The flow is almost the same for both. The first part of the performance is the entrance. They praise the garden. This is an expression of respect to the house that invited them. Next follows a scene of fighting over a doe. It is difficult for the audience to tell which is the doe. However, the intense fight scene is a highlight. Then comes the fierce fighting between the doe, followed by a dance of gratitude for the congratulatory gifts received. The performers then leave the hall. However, the existence of what appears to be a doe is not clear, and it is difficult for the audience to understand whether it is a struggle over a deers in a clear-cut way. One person from each of the left and right rows comes out to fight, and then everyone joins in and things get exciting. The leader comes out at the end to settle the dispute, so it seems as if the henchmen start a fight and the bosses arbitrate it, perhaps because their appearance reminds them of an old *yakuza family.
*yakuza ; Old gambler. They were mainly gamble. Although they were part of the underworld, they were also the unofficial face of the town and did not always have a bad image; some of them corrected corrupt officials on behalf of the common people.

A leader of Nitayama

an image of old gambler and traveller

Hey, you guys. Can’t you keep it down? You look disgusting in front of everybody. Today is the Shinjo Festival. You disgrace the Hagino family, don’t you?…. I can’t help thinking he’s going to say something like that.

Tradition

Their appearance is unusual, not unlike lion dances or deer dances anywhere else. It is said that this is actually an image of a serow. It is said that they imitate the way serow herd and play in the mountains near here. There is a more detailed legend about Nitayama. In the past, this area was seen by the central government as an object to be conquered. Then a great general came from the center. They defeated the armies of the region and ruled. At that time, they governed the people so well that the people, who were at first afraid of them, soon became accustomed to their rule. One day, when the general was returning to the capital, he asked the residents to organize a dance to commemorate the occasion. The inhabitants were annoyed, but one of them devised and performed a dance in which the skeletons of serow and deer were placed on their heads and covered with straw and grass. The general was so impressed by this that he had him rewarded with a prize.

Hagino has this episode. It is said that when Yoshiaki Mogami, referenced earlier, gathered all the deer dances in the territory together, he praised the one here as the best. This is evidence that by that time (the second half of the 16th century), the dance had already taken its present form. Later, another feudal lord came, but he also liked it best. After the Meiji Restoration (late 19th century), the clan leader moved to Tokyo. And when they visited his grave, they again watched the dances, but only one other than Hagino took part. The clan leader wished that the dance would be preserved for a long time because it was his family’s dance. And Hagino is the only one that has remained to the present day.

Hagino again

Two deer dances performed at two neighbouring shrines in the morning, but only Hagino has the opportunity to see them again during the day. This time, the dance is performed in front of a larger audience in the town’s central quadrangle. The content of the dance does not change, but the festival audience takes up positions on all four sides, so the audience feel more enthusiasm and the dance is more spectacular here.

Shinjo festival

To begin with, these two deer dances are at the Shinjo Festival. The Shinjo Festival has been held in the area for about 260 years and has been inscribed as a UNESCO Heritage Site because of the magnificent stalls. The festival lasts for three days, the eve of the festival, the main festival and the post the festival.

The main attraction is the decoration of the floats, which are made by people from each township in their spare time from work. The floats are beautifully decorated with scenes from history, Kabuki and stories, and parade through the town. On the second day, a total of 200 citizens re-enact the procession of the feudal lords of the past.

On the third day, after the Deer Dance, all floats gather for a disbanding ceremony at around 3pm.
The Shinjo Festival allows visitors to enjoy three things at once: floats, historical picture scrolls and traditional performing arts. It is worth a visit.

https://yamagatakanko.com/en/festivals/detail_2991.html

https://www.instagram.com/shinjomatsuri




The lot of an employee is a hard one~Enjoy the rustic kagura at Titibu village .



Date: 15 April and 1 October every year
Location: 649 Oaza Yokose, Yokose-cho, Chichibu, Saitama, Japan
Access: Take Seibu Ikebukuro Line, change at Hanno 飯能 and walk 20 minutes from Yokose 横瀬 on Chichibu Line. It takes about one hour from Tokyo to Hanno, transferring at Ikebukuro 池袋.

*This article is based on October 1, 2016.

The kagura introduced here is typical Kanto kagura, which has been handed down to the villagers. It takes about two and a half hours by train from Tokyo. In addition, it is a mountain village about 20 minutes’ walk away. Even at the tourist information centre near the station, nobody knows anything about Kagura. All they have is trekking information. Nearby is a mountain called Mt Buko 武甲山. This is a lime mining site and there are a number of cement factories dotted nearby. Kagura has been passed down quietly in such places. The first half is a ritualistic dance based on mythology. The second half gradually becomes more informal in a typical style that is more accessible to the common people.

Although the start time is 10.00 am, a priestly ceremony takes place from 10.00 am. This lasts for less than an hour. Then, at around 11:00, it finally begins somewhat as everyone settles into place. This looseness is one of the good things about the Sato 里 (village) kagura.

The first stage begins with a purification dance on the stage. This is followed by a dance without masks, and then the masks of the old men appear. The Okina 翁 (old man) mask has a special aspect that is treated as a sacred mask in Noh plays.

Next to this is the dance of a woman called Ameno-uzume. Ameno-uzume was a deity who played an important role in summoning the sun goddess Amaterasu when she went into hiding, and she often appears in kagura.

Loyal fox serving the boss

Next program is Kanayama-hiko 金山彦, the god of blacksmithing, who does not play a particularly significant role in mythology but often appears in kagura. It is likely that these gods were more appreciated by the common people than the formation of a large state. The fox appears there as a subordinate. The fox is a familiar character who often appears as a messenger of God. Here, he has a dubious shape with mesh in his hair. Kanayama-hiko immediately begins to make a sword. The fox also helps with the forging. After a while, Kanayama-hiko looks sullenly at the finished sword. The fox looks at it with him, but Kanayama-hiko is still not happy with it and starts to strike again. The fox also helps. A fox who has no choice but to conform to his boss’s self-serving behaviour. There is a reason why it looks like that. The expression and gestures of the fox resting near Kanayama-hiko, who is dancing with the finished sword, seem to be saying, ‘Oh dear’.

A breathing fox who seems to be saying, “Oh, I’m so tired.”

And later, the fox also dances with him, but always one step behind, changing position to the left and to the right to match the movements of his master. When the dance is over, Kanayamahiko leaves. The fox rests at the side of the stage, huffing and puffing. However, as if to say that this is unacceptable, the music suddenly changes and he hurriedly follows his master out of the theatre. This sequence of events seems to focus on the difficulties of employee. it’s tough to be in someone’s service. It is always hard to be a palace worker.

This is followed by the Sarutahiko dance and other activities before a lunch break.

After lunch break

After lunch, a series of iwato-opening ceremonies, also common in kagura in the Kanto region. This event is one of the biggest highlights in Japanese mythology. To put it simply, the sun goddess Amaterasu goes into hiding and the world goes dark. The troubled gods then confer, and as a result, hold a banquet and make a great fuss. Amaterasu becomes suspicious and opens the door to drag her out. The main characters are Ameno-uzume, who enlivens the banquet, and Tajikarao, who boasts of his power to open the rock door.

Although the first name is Amenouzume, here it is also Otafuku. The names Okame and Otafuku are often applied to aspects of common women. Because of her plump and puffy cheeks, Mumps is sometimes called Otaffor cold.

Open the rock door for the world

Amenouzume appears again. Usually, the Otafuku face is used as Amenouzume, but here the rather pretty face is used. Next come the gods. Then Tadikarao comes out strongly. The blue shading on his face represents a big villain in Kabuki, but here it is used to emphasise his strength. The kagura of the common people is influenced everywhere by Noh and Kabuki.

It’s tough being an employee Part 2

From here, the kagura moves a little away from mythology again. Inari, the god of agriculture, appears. This was more familiar to audiences at the time. And the famous messenger of Inari is the fox. So there are often statues of foxes at shrines dedicated to Inari (e.g. Fushimi Inari in Kyoto).

And what does he do? He is the god of agriculture, so naturally he grows rice. But the Inari God just sits there. It is the foxes who do the work. He holds the hoe, sows the seeds and ploughs the fields. Foxes, along with Tanuki (Japanese raccoon dogs), are famous as animals that bewitch people, but, off course, foxes that can be used by gods are different. They are loyal to their masters and work without complaint. They cannot say they are tired.

This imagines the beginning of agriculture, so people appear. The fox has to teach the human to grow rice as well. But he is a bastard and eats the seeds he receives. This scene shows us that kagura was a form of entertainment in those days.

The foxes tie up their mouths so that human beings cannot eat them and hands-on teach him step by step and polite manner but…. It is also very hard to be available to God.

Ebisu and attendant ~Maybe it’s easier this way

The gods of the common people are Ebisu and Daikoku. Ebisu is famous as a god who fishes all the time and is also a symbol of prosperous business. An attendant appears here as well, but he is not quite the same as a fox. They do not appear to be so loyal to their duties. Yebisu fishing immediately. When he catches his catch, his followers praise him for his skill. However, he soon starts fishing himself, and eventually catches something strange.

Evisu is tired and asks for a shoulder rub. So far so good, but when Evisu falls asleep in a good mood, attendant does it with Ebisu’s buttocks. So Ebisu is quick to do the same thing back. This kind of relationship between boss and subordinate may be what is needed today.
At the end of the day, they caught the bream safely and left carrying it together. Happily ever after.

Others ~Oroch and Oni

A number of performances follow. There is not space to introduce them all, but I would like to mention two.
One is called ‘Tamatori’, a performance that can sometimes be seen in Kanto kagura. The content is simple: an evil Oni, enchanted by a ball in the princess’s possession, comes to take it away. The main plot, however, is that the warrior deitiy soon exterminate them. However, there is a further development here. The ogres have a magical cloak and hat that allows them to disappear, making themselves invisible to the warrior gods. The ogres could have just run away, but for some reason they start tickling and messing around with Takejin. decides to take matters into his own hands and brings the demon’s mother with him, telling him: “If you don’t show yourself to me, I’ll show your mother to you instead.

The fact that Oni has a mother is a surprise, but it also takes off its own straw hat and cloak for her and allows itself to be beaten by the warrior gods. The story ends as a sad humanistic tale, with the Oni finally exiting with his mother on his back. The fact that the prototype has been handed down in such a modified form gives some indication of the temperament of the villagers of the time.

The extermination of demons is easy to understand and there are others. But what is noteworthy is the extermination of the Orochi. Compared to the spectacular and entertaining western Japan, which is strongly influenced by *Iwami kagura, the Kanto treatment is not so big, and although it has its own innovations, it is somewhat cheap. →

There were 16 performances that day, and it was nearly 5pm when it was over. It is not necessary to see them all. But sometimes it’s not bad to see a kagura performance that touches the hearts of the villagers.

Official site https://www.town.yokoze.saitama.jp/shisetu-bunka/bunkazai/710#

Chichibu attracts many hikers. This is because it is home to numerous shrines and temples, including Chichibu Shrine, and is also a region rich in natural beauty. Despite this, it’s conveniently located just an hour and a half from Tokyo. In particular, the pilgrimage to the 34 sites of Chichibu continues to attract many visitors to this day. While experiencing the nature and culture of Chichibu, it might be a valuable opportunity to experience the local kagura if the chance arises.

Chichibu Tourism Association https://www.chichibuji.gr.jp/




Explore Japan’s Oni Legends at Taizanji Temple



Date: 7 January every year
Location: Taizanji-temple 太山寺, Zenkai-224 Ikawadani-cho, Nishi Ward, Kobe, Hyogo
Access: 10 minutes by Shinki 神姫 bus from Ikawadani 伊川谷, from where it is a 5-minute walk. However, there is only one bus every hour.
    Or a 30-minute walk from Gakuen-toshi 学園都市.
    Both stations are about 30 minutes from Sannomiya 三宮 (Central shopping district of Kobe) by the Seishin 西神 Subway.

based on a visit on 7 January 2018

Nationally, Setsubun 節分, or Oniyarai 鬼遣らい (To drive away bad evil spirits represented by Oni demons), is a fixed date of 3 February. On this day, Oni demons appear in many parts of the country and beans are scattered to scare them away. Although it seems to have become less common these days, it is sometimes held in ordinary households with children, and you can find Oni masks in supermarkets.
Here in Hyogo Prefecture, however, events already start in January in various parts of the prefecture. There is a record that Oni yarai events were originally held at court on New Year’s Eve in the old days, so there is nothing wrong with going in January. Around 20 or more locations throughout Hyogo Prefecture. The latest is in May. This website reports on one of them today.
cf. http://kobe.travel.coocan.jp/shrine_temple/tuinashiki.htm

The venue, Taizanji Temple, is located in a mountain village far from the station. It is a 30-minute walk along a winter-dried road. The temple can be seen standing quietly. Although the temple has a quiet atmosphere now, it used to be a large temple with about 40 temples and halls. Founded in 973. It was later damaged by fire, but reconstruction began in 1293. For this reason, the main hall is the only one in Hyogo Prefecture to be designated a national treasure. Its main hall is filled with the enthusiasm of people on 7 January. The festival starts at 2pm, but by 1.30pm it is already full of people. Incidentally, there is no admission fee on this day. Conscientious management means that on days when there are events, it is free.

Starts at 2 pm. Before that, there will be a brief explanation by the resident priest. Then the people concerned will sprinkle water on the floor. The ceremony uses torches, so it would be a big problem if the fire spread. It is astonishing that this kind of event has been carried on for so long in such a situation.
There will be a total of four Oni demons. They are the Hashiri-Oni (Running Oni), the Taro Oni, the Jiro Oni and the Baba Oni. Of these, Taro and below appear in groups of three. Each one lasts about five minutes. This is repeated about 10 times in total. The only background music is the sound of Japanese drum. The doors of the main hall are closed when the performance begins, so it is pitch-dark inside. When the heavy bass drumbeats begin to resonate in the stomach, the Oni finally make their appearance.

hashiri Oni 走り鬼

Running Oni appear alone. The person chosen to play the role of the Oni purifying themselves a one-day and performs water purification.

Three Onis, Taro, jiro, and Baba

When the running Oni is finished, three Onis appear. They are named Taro 太郎, Jiro 次郎 and Baba 婆. Taro and Jiro are (or perhaps it is more correct to say were…) typical Japanese male names. They seem to have lost much of their popularity nowadays). The first son is named Taro and the second son is named Jiro. The word ‘ro’ means man. Even so, Taro is still often used as the name of a shop or a robot.

Taro oni

Jiro oni

Baba oni

The masks are said to have been made by Unkei 運慶 (early 13th century), the most famous Japanese Buddhist master. In fact, it was not certain, and the resident explained that it was only an oral tradition with smile. The carving of the face is so superb that we can nod our heads in agreement when we are told so. The area is close to Kyoto and Nara, so there must have been many skilled craftsmen. On New Year’s Eve, the great religious city of Hieizan 比叡山 also holds a ritual to drive away demons, and the Oni masks that appear there are said to be modelled on those from here.

Ko-oni 子鬼

In between there are also child Onis by children. A moment’s peace of mind among the terrifying Onis. Their serious expressions are adorable.
The explanation is late, but the Oni here are not bad demons, but Oni that bring happiness to people.

The direction in which the Onis appear changes each time, and they are called mountains and villages respectively.

The audience stands in the pitch-dark hall, lit only by the light of torches. All that can be heard is the deep, resonant sound of the Japanese drums and the stomping of the onis’ feet on the floor.

An hour and a half later, a rice cake throwing ceremony takes place at the temple, which has been opened to the public, and the visitors disperse in their own directions.

On the way back, one of the biggest cities in the Kansai region, Kobe, awaits.

https://www.feel-kobe.jp/column/taisanji/




Take a dip in ancient times and ward off evil spirits~ Heian Shrine Ceremony



Date: 3 February every year
Location: 97 Okazaki Nishitenno-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto
Access: From Kyoto Station, take city bus 5 or Raku Bus 100 for 30 minutes.

*This article is based on events in 2018.

Heian Jingu (grand shrine) 平安神宮

Heian Shrine is one of Kyoto’s most popular tourist attractions. In fact, its history is surprisingly recent, having been founded in 1895. It was around the time when the samurai regime, the Tokugawa family, was overthrown and the new era known as the Meiji period began. For the people of Kyoto, a major event occurred. The emperor is gone. Or, to be more precise, he went to the new capital, Tokyo. There was considerable resistance to this at the time, so the new government was reportedly bitter and convinced people that the Emperor was only going to Tokyo for a visit. The emperor never returned to Kyoto after that, and no government has yet issued a formal declaration of the capital. Of course, this does not mean that Tokyo was not the capital. However, the Kyoto people, who had long been the capital of the dynasty, were disappointed. Against this backdrop, a movement arose to recreate the time when the capital was first established in Kyoto, and the Kyoto people built this shrine. This is a five-eighths scale replica of the central location established by the regime at the end of the 8th century, when Kyoto was declared the capital of Japan. It was called Heian-kyo 平安京, and later became the source of the term Heian period. It remained the political center for a long time until the early 12th century, when powerful warriors established their own government in Kamakura in the Kanto region and brought Kyoto under their control.

(ceremony of) driving out evil spirits ~Daina-no gi 大儺之儀

Rituals called Setsubun 節分 are held in many places around 3 February, but the ceremony here at Heian Jingu Shrine is different. Setsubun is a concept that originally came from China and refers to the division of the year into four parts, each of which is a turning point. And at the same time, it was mixed with a ceremony to drive away evil spirits called Tsuina 追儺 Ceremony. It used to be held at the end of the year at court. According to records of the time, it was solemnly held at 8pm with the Emperor in attendance and many nobles participating. The ceremony is called the ‘Daina-no gi’, which is held in the presence of the Emperor on a large scale. Dai” means big, “gi 儀” means ceremony. The Setsubun ceremony at Heian Shrine is a faithful adaptation of this ritual under the supervision of experts.

Onmyo-ji 陰陽師 and Houso-shi 方相氏

The ceremony begins with a gathering of people dressed in the clothing of the time. In the past, the emperor actually watched this, and it would have been performed in a more solemn atmosphere, as witchcraft was considered more important than it is today. The central figure in the ceremony is a person known as the ‘onmyouji’. The words ‘on’ and ‘myo’ stand for yin and yang. This is also a philosophy and science from China, which holds that the world is made up of the transitions of yin and yang. It was mixed with the idea that all matter in the world is made up of the five elements to form a single system of study. It was further developed in Japan in its own unique way, called onmyoudo, and onmyouji is the official in charge of it. Their work included astronomy and divination. The most famous Onmyo-ji (yin-yang master) was a man called Abe-no Kiyoaki 安倍晴明, to whom many legends have been attached. He is said to have been born between a fox and a man, or to have controlled at will a kind of yokai-like creatures called shikigam式神. Even today, he often appears in novels and dramas. The ceremony proceeds with this Onmyoji taking the lead. It involves using peach trees, shooting bows and arrows, and cutting hollows with swords. The bow, in particular, is believed to have the power to drive away demons with the sound of its strings alone, and can often be seen practised in other regions.

Another person who plays an indispensable and important role is the ‘Housou-shi’. This is a sorcerer with four eyes and the power to ward off evil. However, in later life, the four eyes are feared by people and eventually turn into demons.

The ‘Hōsō-shi’ strike the shields they carry, and with the children in tow, they exit the premises, saying ‘We’ll drive the demons away’. By this time the large Jingu is full of spectators. This is the first part.

Scare off Oni demons with a bean

About 30 minutes of waiting. Suddenly the Oni demons that were supposed to have been chased away appear. This is a stage direction. After all, modern audiences are not convinced unless the Oni demons actually appear. Oni demons appear in the precincts or in the Daigoku-den Hall 大極殿 (Where emperors held political office in the past. Today, the main hall) and make strange noises to intimidate spectators. The Shigeyama 茂山 troupe, who specialists in kyogen, are in charge of the performance, so it is quite a powerful and interesting spectacle.

Eventually, the demons that went on the rampage are dispelled by the magical power of the beans scattered by the Toshi-otoko*. Afterwards, a bean-throwing event is also held for the spectators.
*Tosi-otoko 年男→In Japan, each year is named after an animal, followed by 12 more. The first starts with rat, the idea being that if you are born in the year of the rat, no matter how many years pass, the year of the rat is your year.

Places of interest nearby

Seimei shrine 清明神社 This is shrine dedicated to Abe-no Seimei.

Although it is not a large shrine, the Ichijo-modori Bridge, where Seimei is said to have placed his shikigami (Tool of the sprits), has been recreated in the precincts of the shrine. The ruins of the actual bridge are also nearby. The bridge was believed to be a bridge between this world and the land of the dead, meaning a bridge of return. In recent years, figure skater Yuzuru Hanyu 羽生結弦, who won gold medals at two consecutive Olympic Games, has used a song based on the motif of Seimei, making it a popular destination for his fans.

Kyoto gosho 京都御所

This is where the Emperor once actually lived when he was in Kyoto, and is now open to all to visit at any time.

cf.
Heian grand shrine http://www.heianjingu.or.jp/english/english.html
Seimei shrine https://en.japantravel.com/kyoto/seimei-shrine-in-kyoto/67855 etc.




Shishimai as a hero that carries the legend to the present~ Kanpaku Shishimai



Date: First Saturday of August
Location: 667, Kanpaku-cho, Utsunomiya, Tochigi, Japan
Access: Bus from Utsunomiya.
Get off at Kamikouchi West Elementary School Entrance by city bus. 3-minute walk.
Take Kanto Bus bound for Tamao or Imazato, 30 minutes. 20-minute walk from Kamikawachi Jichi Centre.

Access

Buses are the best way to get there, but unfortunately they are extremely infrequent. If you are physically fit, we recommend cycling. Utsunomiya used to host Asia’s only road cycling world championships. There is a place in front of the station where you can rent a full-fledged sports bicycle. Of course, regular bicycle (including electric) hire places are also located close by. Once out of the city centre, the road is surrounded by greenery and not too much traffic, so it is recommended.
The journey from Tokyo to Utsunomiya takes around 50 minutes on the Tohoku Shinkansen.
If travelling by conventional rail, take the Ueno-Tokyo Line and change at Ōmiya or Akabane, then take the Shonan-Shinjuku Line; the journey takes around two and a half hours.
The Shinkansen fare is roughly double that of the conventional rail service.

ttps://www.city.utsunomiya.tochigi.jp/kurashi/kotsu/jitensha/1006123.html

prologue

A lion is a strange being. Sometimes they are treated as spirit animals, and sometimes they are beings to be exterminated. Originally, it was propagated from mainland China, but while the original Chinese version specialized in entertainment elements, in Japan, it was introduced along with Buddhism, which added many religious elements to it, and various other elements were added. In order to establish their own authority, each of the various lion dances established in various regions began to call themselves a school of their own, and even created a book of secrets not to be shared with anyone outside the school. As for the lion dance introduced here, it is called “Kanpaku style”. The lion dance in this article is called “Kanpaku-ryu,” but it is also called “Tenka-ichi,” which means “the best in the world” in Japanese. There is a reason for this, and it is said that the third shogun of the Edo period praised it as “the best in the country”.

legend

Long ago, bandits from the Tohoku region settled in this area. They robbed the residents of their money, goods, and grains. They also used the people like cattle and horses, and many of them died. The people repeatedly petitioned the capital to conquer the bandits, but received no response from the capital. However, in 911, a conquering army led by Toshihito Fujiwara 藤原利仁 finally arrived. The bandit army fought against the attack of elite troops from the capital, but finally abandoned the residence and retreated into the mountains. The government forces were unable to attack the mountain, but Lord Toshihito read the sky and predicted snowfall in the near future. He secretly sent out scouts to check on the enemy forces. When the snow fell as predicted, he took advantage of the enemy army’s inattentiveness and attacked them in one fell swoop. After fulfilling his role, Lord Toshihito suddenly became ill and died in this place as he was about to return home. His men, grieving, tried to bury him, but the sky suddenly became overcast and it was dark all day and night. After fulfilling his role, Lord Toshihito suddenly became ill and died in this place as he was about to return home. His men, grieving, tried to bury him, but the sky suddenly became overcast and it was dark all day and night. They made a golden lion’s head in the shape of a dragon by various curses and used thousands of bird feathers, which they put on the head and made it dance. Later, the Kanpaku 関白, the chief priest of the time, visited this place and erected a stone monument, claiming that it was the land of his ancestors. The village was then designated as Kanpaku Village.

About Shishimai

A person named Fujiwara Toshihito 藤原利仁 is a real person, not famous today, but who was once granted various legends. The lore is quite specific, and he may have actually conquered the bandits in this area. However, the lion dance itself must have originated much later, so it is assumed that it was probably created in the guise of a legend. However, there is a performance in which the lions exterminate demons, and this is certainly a rare performance that cannot be seen in other lion dances.

The shrine where the event is held is surrounded by mountains and is still somewhat dark during the day.
The shrine grounds are quite large, but the area for dancing is limited to one place, which is small. Okara (soy pulp) is laid out there. Hanagasa hats stand on all four sides. The hanagasa here are solid and carved out of wood.

The first part of the performance always starts with a performance of swordsmanship with sticks. After that, the lions waiting in the background rush into the dance space.
There are other ways in which the lion dance here is different from others. For example, the main part of the performance, called Mejishi Kakushi (Female Lion Hidden), is a fierce confrontation and fight between two male lions over a female lioness. And yet here they search jointly, but do not confront each other afterwards. In fact, they even sleep together.

Exterminate Oni

The lion dance began at 11.00 am and the final and biggest highlight, the demon extermination, comes to an end at around 2.30 pm.

First, the two hunters appear. Then suddenly a demon arrives. This represents the bandits in the legend.

The two manage to get rid of the demons at least once. But then, for some reason, they start drinking. Still, they are good masks with a lot of flavour. The masks of the lion and the hunter seem to have been made by craftsmen of a certain calibre.

Then the demons, which were supposed to have been chased away, appeared again. Perhaps attracted by the smell of alcohol, they come peeping in greedily. The hunters notice this and invite the ogres to a feast. They drink heavily and start playing some kind of game.

The two men take up the Oni’s belongings. So this was the aim. The two men quietly leave. The Oni falls asleep with a cask of sake. Then…

The Shishi army is coming. The Oni are no match for them, and a fierce battle ensues. In the end, the Oni meet their end with a single thrust from the Shishi. This performance alone lasts about 40 minutes. Only this performance is quite powerful because it leaves the dance arena and uses the entire place as a large area. Regardless of the authenticity of the legend, it is assumed that it was entertaining enough for people in the past.

The lion dance started at 11am and continued until about 3.30pm in the afternoon with a lunch break. A different kind of lion dance, if you get the chance.

Various other lion dances

This time we introduced the lion dance of Utsunomiya City, but in fact there are several similar lion dances performed in this area.

Date; Every year on 23 September
Location; Gasoyama shrine 713 Iriwano, Kanuma City, Tochigi Prefecture
Access; Approximately 60 minutes by th *Ribus Iri-Awa-no-kami-Satsuki Line from Kanuma Station on the JR Nikko Line
Alternatively, approximately 50 minutes by the Ribus Iri-Awa-no-kami-Satsuki Line from the entrance of Shin-Kanuma Station on the Tobu Nikko Line; get off at ‘Ozaku-yama Shrine’ and walk for approximately 2 minutes *community bus
https://www.tochigiji.or.jp/event/e16030/

Date; Every year on 15 August
Location; Hakusan shrine 2059 Nakazato-cho, Utsunomiya City, Tochigi Prefecture
Access; From JR Utsunomiya Station, take the Kanto Bus bound for ‘Imazato’ for approximately 30 minutes, get off at ‘Nakazatohara Jumonji’, then walk for about 30 minutes

https://www.utsunomiya-cvb.org/event/detail_20040.html

Date; Every year on 15 August
Location; Hakusan shrine 678 Sakagami-cho, Utsunomiya City, Tochigi Prefecture
Access; From JR Utsunomiya Station, take the Kanto Bus bound for ‘Imazato’ for approximately 25 minutes, get off at ‘Kakinoki’, then walk for about 10 minutes

https://www.utsunomiya-cvb.org/event/detail_20020.html

This Kanpaku lion dance is mainly found in Utsunomiya and Kanuma; in Utsunomiya it can be seen in August, whilst in Kanuma it takes place in autumn, from September through to October.




be intoxicated by a fox show ~Takengei in Nagasaki


Date: October 14 and 15 every year
Location: Wakamiya-Inari 若宮稲荷 shrine, 2-10-2 Irabayashi 伊良林, Nagasaki City, Nagasaki
Access: From Nagasaki 長崎 Station, take a streetcar (bound for Hotaruchaya 蛍茶屋) for about 8 minutes, get off at Shin Daikokucho 大工町 stop, and walk about 10 minutes.
From JR Nagasaki Station, take a 15-minute bus ride to Shindaiko-cho 新大工町 and get off at Shindaiko-cho stop, then walk about 10 minutes.

The only town that had an open port even during the period of national seclusion. The only town where foreign cultural relics could be obtained officially. Along with Hiroshima, it experienced the atomic bombing. Nagasaki is a small port town with many faces, but it is also one of the most attractive. However, when it comes to performing arts using masks, there is not much that stands out. Most of them are kagura, a form of kagura that has been passed down from generation to generation on the island. One of these performing arts that can be seen in Nagasaki City is ” Taken-gei,”

The setting is Wakamiya Inari Shrine. It is not a very large shrine, but there are as many as 70 torii gates on the grounds. Two towering bamboos stand in the precincts of a shrine. One is about 10 meters high and has a staircase called “kase” for climbing.

Then the two appeared dressed as a male and female fox. They climbed up the bamboo and performed various tricks on a 10-meter-high platform. The audience could only look up in amazement as the performers performed their tricks on the swaying bamboos without lifelines.

In fact, there are two more bamboos standing next to it, each about 5 meters long. This is for children to show off their skills, and elementary school children between the ages of five and eight can also show off their skills.

The “Taken Gei” will be held over two days. If you have a chance, please come and see for yourself.

https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E7%AB%B9%E3%83%B3%E8%8A%B8

cf.
https://www.discover-nagasaki.com/en/sightseeing/51413
https://www.at-nagasaki.jp/spot/61013
https://www2.nhk.or.jp/archives/michi/cgi/detail.cgi?dasID=D0004500245_00000