Ono Minato Shrine Festival: A Unique Kanazawa Experience
Date: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, ending on the first Sunday of August
Location: Ono minato shrine 大野湊神社 163 Ha ハ, Teranaka-cho 寺中町, Kanazawa 金沢, Ishikawa, Japan
Access: 5-minute walk from Nishi Keisatsu Sho-mae bus stop on Hokuriku Railway buses bound for 60 Kanaiwa 金石, 61 Ono 大野 and 63 Ono.
About 30 minutes from Kanazawa Station. About one bus every 30 minutes.
based on 2024.8.4.
Overview
Kanazawa is a popular tourist destination in Japan. However, while many people visit the southern part of the city, almost no one visits the northern side (the seaside). That area is a place where people simply go about their daily lives. It is precisely because of this that a festivity has long been held there as a place of prayer for the community. This is the festival I would like to introduce today.
And the stars of this festival are, without a doubt, the three types of masks. You can see just how beloved these mask-wearers—who are said to ward off evil spirits—are simply by walking through the streets.
Throughout the festival, various events take place, including processions of portable shrines, boats setting out to pray for a bountiful catch, and fireworks displays. In addition, groups of exorcists perform exorcisms at various locations throughout the town. However, since only locals—and especially those directly involved—know which locations they’ll visit that year, the best choice is still to check out the event plaza on the final day.
Main Events begin
People gather at the main venue for the festival’s final day around 4:00 p.m. The main venue is located near the Kanaiwa Bus Terminal, where the central road is completely closed off to create two stages, one at the front and one at the back. Each group performs on the first stage and then moves to the second stage to do the same.
One of the highlights is the performance by the Kaga Tobi. “Tobi” is the name of a bird resembling an eagle, but it also refers to people who work at heights. However, in the past, the term referred to firefighters. During the Edo period (the age of the samurai), when fires were common, these firefighters were the target of popular admiration. In particular, here in Ishikawa Prefecture—specifically the region known as Kaga, which boasted the greatest national power outside of the shogun’s domain—the Kaga firefighters were as popular as actors even in Edo. Performing feats such as climbing onto roofs or scaling tall ladders to assess the situation of a fire was not a spectacle, but an essential part of their job. Even today, fire departments often demonstrate these skills at New Year’s ceremonies and other events across the country.
Drive away evil from the town
Around 5 o’clock, the crowd begins to move in a circle around the venue. The main event is about to begin. It’s the height of summer, so even at 5 p.m., it’s still bright out.
Two men dressed strangely like ancient yamabushi ( Buddhist monk) lead a group to ward off evil spirits. They wear high clogs, umbrellas and carry metallic canes. They lead the way first, reading out the names of the gods and chanting the sutra. Mysterious spectacles catch the eye.
A group of flutes and drums around the area help to enliven the occasion.
And there are three main actors. Black Hannya 般若, Red Tengu 天狗and Brown Okina 翁 (old man). They hold a broadax, a bow and a sword to ward off evil, each facing four directions, slashing evil with a sword or other weapon and stamping on the earth. The footwork also follows the secret methods of the mountain priests of the past. The footwork follows the secret method of Yamabushi in the past. Ninja also followed this method of walking without making noise.
High school students play all three of the main actors. No one knows why, but it has been a rule for some time. After the three years are up, the rest of the time they play supporting roles. In other words, the last performance is the final culmination for the third-year students.
They spend three days going from door to door in the town to ward off evil. On the way, many spectators crowd the crossroads, community centers and other large places. They split into several small groups, which can be powerful as they may all go together in large places. And finally, the original Ono Minato Shrine precinct. Around 7.30 pm.
History and overview
Ono Minato Shrine is situated 15 minutes’ bus from Kanazawa city center towards the sea. It was founded around the 8th century. Fire destroyed it in the 13th century, after which a new shrine building was built nearby (current location). So, the people tried hard to get deities to return to them, but it was difficult to achieve this. The origin of this festival is that people began to pray for the deity to return to their original place at least once a year. The festival therefore begins with the construction of a temporary shrine building at the original location. Deities returns to their home shrine and then returns to the original shrine three days later. And during this time, various events take place in the town. The most popular of these is the ‘exorcism’ introduced here.
In Ono hiyoshi shrine, too
This is the festival of the Ono Minato Shrine, but in fact there is also another festival in the neighbor town of Hiyoshi 日吉 shrine, where a group of evil-dispelling people also take part. The summer in Kanazawa is hot from the end of July to August. This is the time of year when you can see the two faces of Kanazawa, the normal townscape and the festive town.
Date: Fourth Saturday to Sunday in July
Location: Ono hiyoshi shrine 大野日吉神社 5-81, Ono-cho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Access: Bus From Hokutetsu Bus Korinbo (5 mins walk from Ono bus stop)… approx. 30 mins
From JR Kanazawa Station (only a few buses) (5-minute walk from Ono bus stop)… approx. 20 mins.
On foot From Hokutetsu 北鉄 Bus Kanaiwa 金石 rotary … approx. 20 mins.
From Kanazawa Port … approx. 15 mins.
cf. Ono minato shrine https://oonominato.or.jp/about/tradition/natumaturi/ sorry only Japanese
Ono hiyoshi shrine http://www.ohnohiyoshi.com/fes/summer
Kanazawa city https://visitkanazawa.jp/en/
Welcome to Kanazawa
Kanazawa is not only the heart of Ishikawa Prefecture but also the center of the Hokuriku region. It is not merely a modern city; it is a place rich in diverse charms, featuring a castle, one of Japan’s most iconic gardens, historic streets, and cutting-edge art museums. Kanazawa seems to encapsulate all the best of Japan in one place—it’s definitely a place you’ll want to visit at least once.