Date; The evening of the last Saturday in October
Location; 769 Ōhashi, Matsudo City, Chiba Prefecture: Koroku Shrine
Access; Hokuso Railway, Kitakokubun Station → 20 minutes’ walk
It takes about an hour to get from Tokyo to Kitakokubun by transferring between the JR, Keisei, and Hokuso Railway lines.

Preservation Society official https://www.shi-shi-ma-i.com/

Watch a lion dance near Tokyo

Since it’s the end of October, it gets dark early. As I walk through the residential neighborhood, which is now completely dark, the shrine I’m looking for comes into view.

The shrine grounds at the top of the stairs aren’t very large. A dance stage has been set up in front of the main hall, and spectators have already begun to gather. There are also several food stalls, a common sight at festivals. There seem to be a lot of children here.

Around 7:30 p.m., lions—led by a monkey—make their appearance from the main hall. This is the “three-lion dance,” a style common in the Kanto region where one person controls each lion. Another distinctive feature is that the dancers hold small drums against their chests.

Since the dance floor is small, the lions stand and twist their bodies as they pound the drums, while the monkey dances around them with comical gestures.

The playful monkey is a favorite among the children

The thing hanging behind the monkey is sometimes a tail, and sometimes something else. Since there are almost no accurate records of the lion dance, it is impossible to trace its detailed history; however, there are records dating back to the late 1700s, so it appears that the tradition was already in place by at least that time. This gives us a glimpse into just how open-minded the Japanese were about sex back then. That said, this isn’t just for fun; it’s imbued with the meaning of praying for a safe childbirth and a good marriage. In the past, all such matters were considered the domain of the gods. Of course, the kids don’t care about any of that; they just keep tugging on his tail and teasing him.

Before long, people around him begin handing the monkey their gift money. The monkey expresses his gratitude in an exaggerated manner and hands out tangerines in return. The children, finding this so much fun, are the ones who keep offering their gift money.

Since they were throwing mandarins, the kids were going wild. Before long, they even started a game of rock-paper-scissors.

When that happens, don’t you start to worry about the lions dancing their hearts out? Isn’t it possible that no one is even watching them? Don’t worry—the adults are definitely watching.

Ending

The event concluded with the traditional sweet-throwing ceremony. Both children and adults were captivated by the treats being thrown. It was already around 8:30 p.m., and the event had lasted about an hour. With night falling, we’d better hurry back to the station.

Location; Yanai-tsu, Yanai City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Access; From Tokyo, it takes just under two hours by plane to Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport. From there, take a bus to Iwakuni Station, and it’s about 50 minutes to Yanai. From Osaka, take the bullet train (Shinkansen) to Hiroshima—it’s an hour and a half. From Hiroshima, it’s about an hour and a half by local train. From Hakata, take the bullet train to Tokuyama. From Tokuyama, it’s about 40 minutes.

This town has been designated as a Preservation District for Important Groups of Traditional Buildings.

Yanai city official https://www.city-yanai.jp/site/kanko/denkenchiku.html
Yamaguchi prefecture official https://yamaguchi-tourism.jp/spot/detail_15062.html

Now, let’s head to the town with its white-walled streets

Yamaguchi Prefecture is located at the westernmost tip of Honshu. If you’ve traveled here from Tokyo or Osaka, you’ll soon be leaving Honshu behind, with Kyushu just around the corner.
Get off at Yanai Station and walk for a short while, and you’ll come upon a town with a somewhat distinctive atmosphere.

If you come here, you’re sure to be dazzled by the brightness of the white walls.

A Town Where Goldfish Welcome You

The famous Kintaikyo Bridge and the streets of Hagi are right nearby. Why not immerse yourself in the white-walled streets while holding a “goldfish lantern” souvenir in one hand?
The goldfish will always be waiting for you.

Kintaikyou Bridge https://kankou.iwakuni-city.net/itn/
Hagi https://www.hagishi.com/en/

Date; The first Sunday in April every year
Location; Omi shrine 2516 Zakoji, Iida City, Nagano Prefecture
Access; If you’re coming from the Tokyo area, taking an express bus from Shinjuku is the most convenient and common option. It takes about 4 hours to reach Iida. From there, it’s about 10 minutes on the Iida Line to Motosenkoji Station. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the station. Taking the bus is also the most convenient option if you’re coming from the Nagoya area.

Zakoji official (Japanese) http://zakoji.jp/news/8054/

This article is based on a visit of 4th, April,2026.

Places to Visit During Cherry Blossom Season

Minami-Shinshu (southern Nagano Prefecture) is a treasure trove of yatai-shishi (A large vehicle float designed to resemble a lion). While the tradition originated at Ruri-ji Temple, it varies from region to region. So, what can we see here in Zakoji?
lion dance of Ruriji-temple https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/07/23/experience-the-origins-of-shinshus-lion-dance-under-the-fully-blooming-cherry-blossoms-the-lion-dance-at-ruriji-temple/

The nearest station is Moto-zenkoji Station. The area around it seems deserted, but if you walk a short distance along the road on the opposite side, you’ll find a variety of shops. It becomes clear that cars, rather than trains, are the primary mode of transportation in this area.

Still, it’s certainly true that this area’s appeal lies in more than just the number of shops.

The weeping cherry tree is designated as a municipal natural monument.

Encountering them (the masked characters)

1:00 p.m. In front of the Moto-Zenkoji Station, a lion dance troupe is getting ready. And there’s another event cart nearby. This is a lion—but specifically, an Echigo lion. Echigo refers to what is now Niigata Prefecture. The name comes from the fact that, long ago, there were people (mostly children) who came from Echigo to entertain crowds with street performances featuring dancing and acrobatics to get money.
And…

There they are! A bunch of strange characters are coming in droves…

Geji, Okame and Hyottoko!

Basically, their role is to clear the way ahead. They purify and cleanse the path for the gods to pass through.

The Lion is Finally on the Move

It was 2:30 p.m. While the Echigo Lion Dance troupe demonstrated their performance in front of the station and in front of the Moto-Zenkoji Temple, a group centered around the main lion figure was making preparations on the road leading to Omi Shrine.

And here, too, are some mysterious masked characters…

That’s right—they, too, are the Lion’s entourage’s advance guard.

And today’s stars—the ones leading the lion dance—are these three brothers. Their story is rooted in a Kabuki play. How dignified these children look as they take on such important roles, all dressed in Kabuki makeup!

It is based on a play in which three brothers, seeking revenge against their parents’ enemy, engage in a sword fight with their adversary, who is riding in an ox-drawn cart. It is said that this effect was achieved by using an ox cart as a stand-in for a lion’s chariot. In other words, local theater has long been a thriving tradition in this region.

Finally, a dedication at the shrine

Around 3:30, the Echigo Lion Group arrives at the shrine a little ahead of the other lion groups.

Just before 4:00 p.m. The group of lions finally arrives.

A large crowd has gathered. The tengu leading the way are also very busy.

Date; The second Sunday in September
Location; Tenshi Shrine, Otonari, Nanaura, Kashima City, Saga Prefecture
Access; If you’re taking the bus, get off at Hizen-Nanaura Station; if you’re taking the train, it’s about a 10-minute walk from Hizen-Nanaura Station.

Kashim city official https://saga-kashima-kankou.com/feature/1870

Part 1 Hougaura https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/09/17/watching-the-menburyu-dance-in-kashima-city-1-hougaura-%e6%af%8d%e3%83%b6%e6%b5%a6%e9%9d%a2%e6%b5%ae%e7%ab%8b/

*Although the place name is “Otonari,” this traditional performing art is often referred to as “Otonashi,” a name derived from an older place name.
This article is based on a visit on September 13, 2026.

This day is Menbryu Day

On this day, various Menbryu events take place throughout this area. Starting in the morning, three events—in Iida, Hougaura, and Otonari—are held at staggered times. The reason for staggering the times is apparently because the Shinto priests serve at multiple shrines simultaneously.

After visiting Hougaura, I walked toward Nanaura Station and headed to the next area, Otonari. It takes about 30 minutes on foot. Following the coastal road with a view of the tidal flats, I came to the roadside station “Kashima.” The Otonari area lies just beyond that.

In the plaza below the shrine

Fortunately, the rain that had been feared didn’t fall, and preparations for the performance starting at 11:00 a.m. are complete in the spacious plaza.

Just as in the “Hōgaura” performance, a group called the “Torige” performs first, while women known as the “Kaneuchi” stand on the sidelines.

Compared to Hōgura, the costumes are all black and subdued, and the music occasionally becomes quieter, giving the performance a very solemn atmosphere. It is said that this version is closer to the original form.

Going down the road ~”MIchiyuki”

“Michiyuki” could be considered, in a sense, the highlight of the Menburyu performance. The group proceeds along the path leading to the shrine. According to one scholar’s theory, this represents the advance of the Oni (ogres) who challenged the gods to battle.

Demons making their way along a narrow path between the fields. There’s simply no way to truly experience the atmosphere of this scene except by seeing it live. It’s no wonder it’s so popular with photographers. About 15 minutes.

At the shrine

They moved back to the shrine grounds. It was past noon.

Ocean of Treasures, Forever

Location; 694 Baba-shita-ko, Oaza, Shiota-cho, Ureshino City, Saga Prefecture
Access; Get off at Hizen-Kashima Station on the JR Nagasaki Main Line → Take a Yutoku Bus bound for Ureshino or Takeo and get off at Shiota-Chousha-mae → 5-minute walk　The trip from Saga to Hizen-Kashima Station takes about 30 to 40 minutes by limited express or local train. From Fukuoka, it takes a little over an hour.
*When you open Google Maps, you’ll see a black bus stop icon. Click on it to get a general idea of the bus schedule.

Saga prefecture https://www.asobo-saga.jp/spots/detail/16df1fed-fb97-4ad2-a289-97c186ed53b6
Townscape Preservation Society https://peraichi.com/landing_pages/view/shiotatsu/ Japanese
Shiotatsu is a Preserved District of Important Traditional Building Groups.

This article is based on a visit on September 12, 2026.

This is a post town on the road to Nagasaki

It’s about a 15-minute bus ride from in front of Kashima Station. The entrance to a former commercial town located along the way to Ureshino 嬉野 Onsen (hot spring).

You’ll be greeted by “Ebisu-sama,” the god of commerce. In Saga Prefecture, you can see statues of Ebisu not just here, but all over the place.

During the Edo period (the era of samurai rule), the streets were much narrower, but it is said that once horse-drawn carriages began to travel along them, all the houses were set back to widen the streets. This anecdote gives a glimpse into the prosperity of that time.

Transporting Stones to Arita

There are two reasons why this town flourished. One, of course, was its role as a post station on the road to Nagasaki. The other was its role as a transit point utilizing the river.

Arita, a nearby town famous for its pottery. When the local clay began to run out, they started sourcing it from Kumamoto. At that time, they reportedly transported stones here via the river, crushed them into clay, and then transported the clay to Arita.
Since the boats couldn’t sail until the tide came in again, the merchants rested at nearby places like Ureshino Onsen (hot spring) before returning to work.

Even if you turn down an alley and head down a back street, it still has its own charm.

Sometimes you can see storehouses where the plaster walls curve upward toward the roof. This design is intended to prevent the spread of fire in the event of a blaze. Apparently, though, it was quite expensive.

Though I’ll never stop missing it, I’ll be back someday—that’s the kind of town it is.

Date; The second Sunday in September every year
Location; *Otonari, Kashima City, Saga Prefecture 849-1323
Access; Take a bus bound for Oura or Takezaki from the Hizen-Kashima Station Bus Terminal; the ride takes about 20 minutes, and get off at Nishiha. It’s a 10-minute walk from there. Hizen-Kashima is about 40 minutes from Saga by local train and about 20 minutes by limited express. Trains run about once an hour, and buses run about the same frequency. By train, it’s about 2.8 km from Nanaura Station.

Kashima city official https://saga-kashima-kankou.com/event/2069
This article is based on information as of September 13, 2026. Please note that times and other details may change from year to year, so please check directly for the most up-to-date information. https://www.city.saga-kashima.lg.jp/main/4040.html#

Let’s Go to “Hougaura”

Unfortunately, Kashima City isn’t exactly well-connected by public transportation. The nearest train station is Hizen-Nanaura Station, but since it’s a bit far, it’s more convenient to take a bus from Kashima Station.

Get off at the “Sae” bus stop and walk a short distance toward Nanaura; you’ll see a sign on your right that reads “Menburyu Dedication Site” and “Chinju Shrine.”

Way of the shrine

In front of a very small shrine, a single path leads out into the rice fields. The group gathers there. At 8:20 a.m., the procession finally begins.

The *Yakko-san are leading the way. Following that, the Oni Mask finally launches into action.
*Yakko: People who used to accompany samurai processions in the past. a samurai’s attendant

Stamping their feet heavily on the ground and beating small drums, they march forward as if to drive away the evil spirits of this land.

Adding a final touch of color are the elaborately dressed women who strike the gongs and, at times, cheer on the procession. About 15 minutes.

At the shrine

Next, moving to the shrine grounds, they performed the dance once more.

The dancing is so intense that by the time one routine ends, the dancers are panting heavily. Throughout the performance, messages of thanks for the congratulatory gifts are read aloud.

Finally, they left the line one by one. It ended around 9:30 that day.

Afterward, another traditional performance from the same area is presented, bringing the Hougaura Autumn Festival to a close.

Date; The third Sunday in January each year
Location; Omiya Hachiman shrine 2-19-1 Honmachi, Miki City, Hyogo Prefecture
Access; Approximately a 10-minute walk from ‘Miki’ Station on the Kobe Electric Railway From Sannomiya, in central Kobe, take any line and transfer to the Kobe Electric Railway; the trip takes about an hour.

Miki city official https://www.city.miki.lg.jp/soshiki/33/2978.html
Omiya Hachiman shrine Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/DT0HyiPkzmb/

This article is based on 21th, January, 2024.

Kind and Good Oni Who Spread Happiness

Sannomiya is the heart of Kobe and is conveniently located just one stop away from Shin-Kobe Station on the Shinkansen (bullet train line). From there, you can take the Hankyu, Hanshin, or municipal subway lines to reach Miki in about an hour.

The Demon-Chasing Ceremony was held twice on this day. It seems there have been times in the past when it was held three times, but in recent years, two times has been the norm. First, after receiving a purification ritual at the main hall, the demons take the stage set up to the side.

This ceremony is jointly organized by Omiya Hachiman Shrine and Gachirin-ji Temple.

The Oni are red and black; although several of them appear, none of them are scary—they all have somewhat goofy expressions, reminiscent of cute mascots.

They aren’t gathered just to make small talk; instead, they march in step with chants, carrying torches.

Since the mask isn’t something one puts over the face but rather a type that completely covers the head, that might be what makes it even funnier.

Oni Dance Continues

Along the way, the Oni pound mochi, which is later thrown to the audience.

There were two sessions that day: one starting at 10:00 a.m. and another at 2:00 p.m. Each session lasted about an hour. Could the children have gotten their hands on some mochi?

Miki is a former castle town

Miki was once a town that flourished around Miki Castle. Faint remnants of the castle’s ruins can still be seen at the site. The sign features a character-style design that symbolizes modern Japan.

As a result, you can still see parts of the townscape that evoke its former appearance, as well as houses with storehouses.

Come visit the place sometime!

Location; 841 Hirata-cho, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture
Access; It takes about 20 minutes by Ichibata Railway from Izumo City Station to Unshu-Hirata. From Izumo Taisha-mae Station, it takes about 35 minutes. From there, it is about a 10-minute walk. The journey from Okayama to Izumo City takes about 3 hours by limited express train.

Official site https://momen-kaidou.jp/en/

Going to Hirata

First of all, let’s take the local railway, the Ichibata Tram, from Izumo City.

The area around the station has a truly quiet and peaceful atmosphere. Until recently, Hirata was a town known only to a select few.

It is only recently that they have finally begun to develop facilities such as tourist information centres and promote the area as a tourist destination. It may hardly be mentioned anywhere else.

Momen Kaido (Cotton Road)

As you cross the bridge, the old townscape comes into view.

The town began to prosper through the cotton trade from around the early 18th century. Partly because it was developed during a period of civil strife, a site surrounded by rivers was chosen.

Hirata dolls are occasionally on display. These are unusual craft items made entirely from tea sets, pottery and Buddhist altarware, which are shaped and held together with wire.

Date; Every year on the Sunday before Marine Day—Marine Day is a public holiday falling on the third Monday in July
Location; Hanahata Otori shrine 7-16-8 Hanahata, Adachi Ward, Tokyo
Access; Take the bus from Tobu Bus Platform 1 at Tsukuba Express ‘Rokucho Station’
Take the Bunkyo University Circular bus and alight at ‘Hanahata 6-chome’; it is an 8-minute walk from there
or From ‘Yatsuka Station’ on the Tobu Skytree Line, take the Tobu Bus bound for Hanabata-Kuwabukuro Housing Estate, alight at ‘Soka Memorial Gymnasium’, then walk for 8 minutes.

Both the Tobu Line and the JR Tsukuba Express take around 10 to 20 minutes from Asakusa

Adachi Tourism Net https://www.adachikanko.net/en/spot/id-005
Japan travel about Otori shrine https://en.japantravel.com/tokyo/otori-shrine/60192
video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYztUx9rs-k

This article is based on visits of 19th, July, 2015 and 17th, July, 2017

A rare lion dance that can be seen in the wards of Tokyo

To put it bluntly, traditional folk arts can only be seen in remote areas. They are not passed down in the heart of the city. This is only to be expected, as it is virtually impossible to pass on such arts across generations in places where the population turns over so rapidly. In that sense, this lion dance can be said to be extremely valuable. Conversely, it shows that although this area is now a city, it used to be a rural area. That said, the shrine now stands right in the heart of a residential area.

The lion dance finished one performance this morning, and the afternoon session is about to begin. Apart from the central stage, you can watch from anywhere.

This is the form of the ‘three-lion dance’ commonly seen in the Kanto region and further east.

Whatever happened to the lioness?

The performance known as ‘The Hidden Female Lion’ is a classic lion dance piece.
Although there were originally three lions, for some reason only the female lion disappears.
The remaining two work together to start looking for her, but…

The lion who spotted the other first should have reported it straight away, but instead tries to play it down. He tries to play it down. It’s soon obvious. And so the battle between the two begins.

Whilst all this was going on, the lioness disappeared again… The same thing happened twice, and in the end, everything ended happily.

Hei gakari

A performance in which the performers become connected to something is called a ‘kakari’. This is a performance in which the performers become connected to Gohei (sacred objects).

Tuna (rope) gakari

Suddenly appearing, a mysterious rope. ‘What on earth is this?’ wondered the lions.

‘The next lion is still young, so he’s got plenty of strength,’ said the compère, whipping the crowd into a frenzy.
‘Come on! There’s more to come!’

Even the security guard finds himself putting his all into it

at the end

Once the lion dancers have finished their dedication ceremony at Ōtori Shrine, they head to a temple called Fukuju-in, where they perform their final dance to bring the event to a close. According to legend, a long time ago, during a flood, a complete set of lion dance tools was washed ashore and kept by Fukuju-in. It is said that this lion dance was eventually created using those very tools.
It was already half past three in the afternoon. The heat was starting to ease off. The lion dance was over, but summer was far from over. So, where are the next masked characters?

Date; 16th August every year
Location; Enmamji-temple and Okirai fishing port Namiita, Okirari, Sanriku-chō, Ofunato City, Iwate Prefecture
Access; It takes about two and a half to three hours to get from Tokyo to Shin-Hanamaki by Shinkansen (bullet train). From there, it takes about two hours to get to Kamaishi by conventional train. From there, change to the Sanriku Railway to reach Sanriku. The journey takes about 30 minutes.

Urahama nenbutsu kenbai instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/DcBTNFYE3SM/

This article is based on visit of 16th, August, 2018

The memory of the earthquake will never fade

From Kamaishi, I set off for Sanriku on the local Sanriku Railway. This area is famous for its rias coastline, and the rugged terrain is clearly visible from the train window. These areas suffered extensive damage in the 2011 tsunami; in the regional centre, Ofunato City, the town was almost completely destroyed.

Unfortunately, it was raining that day. With the event in doubt, people gathered at the community centre, which served as the alternative venue in case of rain. Inside the centre, paintings depicting local folk arts from the surrounding area were on display.

Enmanji -temple

Following the Noh performance at the community centre from half past three in the afternoon,, the rain fortunately stopped, and the event moved to the neighbouring Enman-ji venue, where the local folk arts performance began around half past four..

Urahama deer dance

First up is the Urahama Deer Dance. The Deer Dance is broadly divided into two styles: one where the performers carry drums and one where they do not; here, the performers carry drums. Although the costumes and dance styles are similar across the drum-carrying tradition, the sheer power of the performance never fails to impress, no matter how many times one sees it.
*For further details https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/11/30/michinoku-traditional-folk-performing-festival-the-deer-dance/

Kawahara yoroi kenbai (Armoured Sword Dance)

There are two distinct styles of sword dance: one with a strong emphasis on performance, and the other with a pronounced focus on mourning. This Kawaharara Kenbai (sword dance) is a performing art with a strong memorial character. It is often referred to as ‘Nembutsu Kenbai’. Whilst its origins are unclear, it is frequently described as a ritual to honour the souls of samurai who fell in battle.

Consequently, towards the end, the spirits often line up in a single file and attack the central figure performing the memorial rites, but the story usually concludes with each spirit being laid to rest one by one before departing.

Urahama nenbutsu kenbai (Prayer Sword Dance)

The Urahama Sword Dance is, without a doubt, the local traditional art form. It is said that these traditional local performing arts were the first to spring into action after the earthquake, offering encouragement to the local people.

Okirai fishing port

Shortly after 6 pm, the group set off for their next destination, Okirai Fishing port.

As the sun was setting, the memorial ceremony began.

Urahama nenbutsu kenbai (sword dance)

In a truly rare occurrence, they performed a dance that ritualised the offering of incense. This, one might say, is the very essence of the Nenbutsu sword dance.

Urahama deer dance

Kawahara yoroi kenbai (Armoured Sword Dance)

Others

The programme featured special performances by artists from South Korea, as well as new Noh plays incorporating the local dialect.