Location; Within Mitani-cho, Gamagori City, Aichi Prefecture　Wakamiya shrine, Yatsurugi shrine

Date; Weekends in mid-October (see the official website for details → https://38fes.jp/en/

Access; From the Tokyo area, take the Shinkansen to Toyohashi—about two hours. From there, it’s about 15 minutes on the local line (Tokaido Main Line) to Mikawa-Miya. From Osaka, take the Shinkansen or a limited express train to Nagoya—about an hour—and then take the local line for about an hour.

based on 10th (Sunday) October, 2023

A Grand Gathering of Masked Characters

One could call it a small town. Located between Japan’s three major economic hubs—Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya—Gamagori City is known for its fruit and hot springs. The station right next to it is Miya, the focus of this story. That small town has something that can rival even Nagoya. That is this year’s Miya Festival. And many masked characters appear at the festival. The festival has many charms. Let’s take a closer look.

The Big Festival in a Small Town

When you get off at the small station, there’s a road stretching straight ahead. The atmosphere there is already buzzing with festival excitement.
This festival is held over two days—a Saturday and Sunday—in mid-October.
On Saturday, planning meetings are held starting in the morning, and at noon, the floats from each district set out to visit the shrine. Then, around 7:00 p.m., everyone finishes the procession and heads home.
Sunday is no different—the event starts early, at 8:00 a.m. After the procession through the ocean, traditional performances from each district are presented one after another at two shrines. The entire event doesn’t wrap up until after 9:00 p.m.

Magnificent, ornate festival floats—said to be modeled after those of Kyoto—parade through the town. Since this festival is held in honor of both Wakamiya and Yatsurugi Shrines, each district visits the shrines at different times. And during that time, the festival’s biggest highlight—the maritime procession—takes place.

For this maritime procession, the schedule may shift to the second or third weekend, depending on the tides.

At last, the masked characters are entering the shrine

After completing the maritime procession, the group heads next to Wakamiya Shrine. At this point, each district performs the traditional arts they have passed down through the generations.

They will perform twice in front of the shrine and once more inside the grounds. There are six districts in total. Since the next one is coming up, each district will perform for about 10 minutes before moving on to the next.

For example, Nishi Ward stages a reenactment of a feudal lord’s procession, and children, looking nervous as they take the stage, show off the results of their daily practice.

Dance of Susano

The Age Ward will perform the “Dance of Susanoo.” Susanoo is one of the most famous deities in Japanese mythology, known for his wild nature—which led to his expulsion from the heavenly realm—and for slaying the eight-headed serpent, Orochi.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/amano-iwatobirakithe-revival-of-the-deity-of-sun/
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/defeating-orochi/

There are six characters in total. A distinctive feature here is that the masks are strangely lifelike, and since they are the type that cover the entire head, they create a peculiar sense of realism. They dance along to the melody of the flute. Dance

Dance of Shitifukujin (seven deities )

The Seven Lucky Gods are Japan’s most famous deities—a group of seven deities who bring happiness to people. They often appear during auspicious occasions such as the New Year. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/04/05/seven-deities-of-good-fortune-parade-celebrating-the-new-year-at-the-center-of-tokyo/
This is a traditional performing art preserved by Kita Ward. And since this is the type that covers its head completely with a strangely realistic mask, viewers might feel as if they can actually hear a normal conversation taking place. “It’s finally our turn. I’m starting to feel a little nervous.” “Me too.”

In the original Seven deities of good fortune, there is a female deity named Benzaiten who presides over the arts, but here she is replaced by a fox. The story revolves around the deities being beguiled by the fox and made to dance under its control.

“Come on, come on, dance properly,”—don’t you find it strangely comical to imagine the Seven Lucky Gods dancing as if a fox were telling them that?

“Give me a break, I can’t dance anymore.”
“For some reason, my body just won’t listen to me.”

Renjishi Dance

“Renjishi” originates from a Kabuki play. It is a dance depicting two lions dancing wildly, and the highlight is the scene where they swing their long hair around vigorously. The performing arts of Naka Ward are modeled after this; at first glance, they look like makeup, but they are actually masks.

Of course, just like in the original, there are scenes where they swing their long hair around. Many fans come to see just that.

The festivities wrap up for the time being around 4:00 p.m., and the festival floats make their way from Wakamiya Shrine to Yatsurugi Shrine.

The festival continues late into the night

By around 5:30, Yatsurugi Shrine was packed with spectators. However, since the shrine grounds are spacious, everyone gathered in a circle around the shrine.

Since the temple grounds are so spacious, you can see performances and activities that are different from those during the day.

And so, the town continues to buzz with a festive atmosphere until nearly 9:00 p.m.

Official site https://38fes.jp/
Aichi Now https://aichinow.pref.aichi.jp/en/events/detail/155/

Date; The third Sunday in October every year
Location; 9610 Inafu, Tatsuno Town, Kamiina District, Nagano Prefecture
Access; If you’re coming from the Tokyo area, take the Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku to Okaya (about 2.5 hours), then take the Iida Line for just under 20 minutes to Haba. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the station.
From the Osaka or Nagoya area, take the Limited Express Shinano to Shiojiri (about 2 hours), then take the Chuo Line to Okaya, transfer to the Iida Line, and get off at Haba.　By bus, take the express bus and get off at Ina Bus Terminal, then take the Iida Line from Ina City Station to Haba.

This article is based on 20th October 2024

Why a sailing ship, even though the place is in the mountains?

The Azusa Limited Express, with a transfer to a local line, takes about 3 hours

After arriving at a small station deep in the mountains, there was a festival here called “the Boat Festival.”

After walking for about 15 minutes, a small shrine finally comes into view. Then, visitors must climb a long, long flight of stairs to reach the top. But just before that, there’s a sign that catches one’s eye…

“This is mountain where ” Tengu” lives !?” A mysterious message… Yet the people who have gathered here seem to be having a good time. It’s a festival full of mysteries.

The “boat” arrives, and the festival begins

Around 1:30 in the afternoon, the “boat” finally arrives at the square. The people carrying it spin it round and round, and

While the crowd was making a commotion over the ship’s arrival, a lion—and even a tengu—suddenly appeared from inside the ship. This is No.1 Tengu.

Tengu make strange “Ho-ho” sounds, wrestle with the lion, and roll around among the crowd. That’s right—this tengu doesn’t walk; instead, it runs on all fours and rolls around.

The Mountain Where Tengu Run Amok

Just as one wonders, “Did the tengu disappear somewhere?”, it suddenly appears from the top of the mountain. It’s the second tengu making its entrance.

“Oh, I found something.” If children aren’t careful, they’ll get caught by a tengu. Will the kids be thrilled? No.
Come to think of it, they say that tengu run around barefoot without ever getting hurt. Is this another feat of their supernatural powers?

The Last Tengu Flys Out

And finally, the last tengu leaped out of the “boat.” They say the tengu become more and more aggressive as they emerge, in the order they appear.

One moment the tengu was at the temple, and the next he was dashing around the mountaintop,

or tumbling down the mountainside. It’s a muddy struggle.

Ending

Once the commotion caused by the tengu subsides, people begin to gather around the lion. Then, the lion takes a big bite out of its head…

It’s a strange festival to have a boat appear in the mountains, but there’s a legend behind it. The lions were outsiders who demanded to be allowed to live in this land. The tengu were the ones who dealt with them. It is said that an agreement was reached during the third round of negotiations, and the lions came to dwell in this land. Hearing this, many people are reminded of the Izumo myth. In that myth, a messenger from Amaterasu visits Okuninushi to demand that he cede his land; after three rounds of negotiations, Okuninushi finally agrees, and Amaterasu gains possession of the land.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/okuninushi-hnded-over-his-own-country-to-amaterasukuni-yuzuri-%e5%9b%bd%e8%ad%b2%e3%82%8a/
Simply put, it’s a memory of invasion by a powerful force. Perhaps something similar happened in this land in the past. I don’t know any specific details. Memories of certain things linger on like this in people’s minds forever.

Just past 3:00 p.m., the chaos and commotion subsided, and the mountain regained its usual tranquility. At the foot of the shrine, a pair of deities, praying for the people’s peace and well-being, watched us leave.

Tatsuno town https://www.town.tatsuno.lg.jp/gyosei/soshiki/sangyoshinkoka/kankosite/4/1144.html

Date; The second Saturday and Sunday of October every year
Location; 12 Tenma, Kasadera-cho, Minami Ward, Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture
Access; Get off at “Honkasadera” Station on the Meitetsu Nagoya Main Line; 11-minute walk
Get off at “Kasadera” Station on the JR Tokaido Line; 15-minute walk
All of these stations are about 20 minutes from Nagoya Station.
Nagoya Station is accessible via the Shinkansen, which takes about an hour and a half from Tokyo and about an hour from Osaka.

That creature appears in the big city of Nagoya

Nagoya is the capital of Aichi Prefecture and a major city with a population of approximately 2.3 million, making it the fourth-largest city in Japan after Tokyo, Yokohama, and Osaka. It is the core city of the Chubu region, Japan’s third-largest metropolitan area after the Tokyo metropolitan area and the Kansai region centered on Osaka. Aichi Prefecture is also home to Toyota.
Typically, traditional performing arts tend not to be preserved very well in urban areas with high population turnover. However, here in the Nagoya area, it is said that mysterious creatures parade through the streets during festivals. What’s more, the records date back about 250 years.
So, I headed straight to a place called Kasadera, where I heard there was a festival.

Find the Shōjō

The name “Kasadera” comes from a temple and is located along the Old Tōkaidō (a historic highway that was once the busiest in the region). It is also close to Nagoya and features venues such as a concert hall, so the station sees a high volume of passengers during events.
This time, it’s not a temple, but a festival at a shrine called Nanasho Shrine. When I headed in that direction from the station…

There it was. A mysterious creature, the Shōjō.

Records indicate that the Shōjō first appeared at festivals in this area around the 18th century, but it is unclear why they began to make appearances.
It is said that the current Shōjō are ones made by artisans during the Meiji era (1861~1912), which are still in use today after undergoing repairs.Still, it’s a strange and somehow humorous creature.

The Walking Shōjō

The body is large. Plus, its legs are short relative to its body.

Thank you for your hard work, security guard.

As you’ve probably noticed, the giant body is made of woven bamboo and is worn like a costume. The face is right around the belly area. So when a child wears it, it looks small, but when an adult puts it on, they become a giant.

Shōjō are very popular with children. During breaks and other times, children put on small Shōjō to take memorable photos.

Happy times fly by

“Huh? Did I get lost?” “Is this the right way?” They even make audience imagine a conversation like that.

The group will first pay their respects at Nanasho Shrine before heading to the community center.

Due to certain circumstances, my visit this time took place in the afternoon—from 2:00 to about 3:30—so it was a short visit, but I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Anyway, you’ll really understand just how strange and quirky this is when you see it with your own eyes.
The Shōjō appear not only here but in other places as well, so if you get the chance, be sure to check them out at least once.

Reference

For your reference, here’s a brief overview of some of the festivals featuring the Shōjō.

Nagakusa Tenjin Shrine Doburoku Festival
44 Hongo, Nagakusa-cho, Obu City From “Nagoya” Station on the JR Tokaido Main Line, get off at “Kyowa” Station. February 25 or the Sunday immediately preceding it
Funatsu Shrine Festival
1 Funatsu, Nawa-cho, Tokai City The fourth Sunday of September and the day before, every year Get off at “Nawa Station” on the Meitetsu Tokoname Line; 11-minute walk　https://www.tokaikanko.com/event/syoujyoumetta/
Arimatsu Tenman Shrine Autumn Festival
10 Yonezuka, Narumi-chō, Midori Ward, Nagoya　the first Sunday in October　Get off at Arimatsu Station on the Meitetsu Nagoya Main Line (approx. 10-minute walk)
Approx. 20 minutes from Nagoya Station

Hikami anego shrine
1-3 Hishikami-yama, Takata-cho Midori Ward, Nagoya City First Sunday in October

others

Hoshimiya shrine (4th, October) , Nanasho shrine in Okehazama (10th~11th October)
https://www.mc.ccnw.ne.jp/tatami/syoujyo-photo.midori.htm

Date; The second Saturday and Sunday of April every year
Location; 812 Ojimasan, Takamori Town, Shimoina District, Nagano Prefecture
Access; From Shinjuku in Tokyo, it takes about 4 hours to reach Takamori by express bus bound for Iida. From there, it’s a 15-minute walk. If you’re coming from the Osaka area, take the express bus from Nagoya.
By train, take the limited express from Tokyo to Okaya, then take the Chuo Line to Tatsuno. From there, transfer to the Iida Line and get off at Ichida or Motozenzōji Station. The trip takes about four and a half hours. From there, it’s about a one-hour walk.

This article based on 14th, April, 2024

A Trip to the Ina Valley in Search of the Origins of the Roadside Stall Lion Dance

A “yatai lion” is essentially a smaller version of a festival float covered with a curtain and fitted with a lion’s head at the front. Since it has wheels, several people can get inside to move it, and it can also be used to transport necessary items. For more details, please refer to the article below.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/08/30/shishi-dance-in-ruri-dera-temple/

Head to Ruriji Temple

Around noon. The event is scheduled to start at 1:00 p.m., but several booths have already been set up at the temple, offering everything from food to sundries. A fair number of people have gathered. It’s no wonder—this lion dance is very popular.

Messenger Monkey

Beginning

A curtain is draped over the assembled lion’s body, and preparations are nearing completion.

Following the children in their festive attire, the monks make their entrance.
Once the monkey begins organizing the audience, the festival is finally about to begin.

Dance of Ryo-oh

2:00 p.m. The “Ryō-ō no Mai” dance is performed first. Although this dance had been discontinued for quite some time, a group of volunteers revived it to commemorate the 900th anniversary of the temple’s founding.
“Ryō-ō” is a piece from the traditional court dance and music tradition.

The lion dance is finally about to begin

Two demons suddenly burst onto the scene and intimidate the audience. The lion dance is finally about to begin. The demons’ role is to keep the audience from coming forward.

Then, the star of the day, Utenno, makes his appearance. He awakens this sleeping giant lion and leads it from Ruri-ji Temple to Hiyoshi Shrine.

“His shoes don’t quite fit right,” the monkey says as he adjusts them. The monkey does things like this, too. Quietly, quietly, Utenō faces off against the lion. Then, when Utenno steps on the cord, the lion, suddenly awakened from its slumber, begins to rampage. The tempo of the music also shifts to a faster pace.

At last, Utenō, accompanied by the lion, exits the gates of Ruri-ji Temple. After walking down a slight slope from Ruri-ji Temple and turning at a right angle, he enters the approach to Hiyoshi Shrine.

Walking along the approach path beneath the flowers in full bloom

“The blossoms are in full bloom this year—it’s the best yet,” said an organizer with a delighted smile. The demon roared, intimidating the audience. The monkey, with a composed expression, cleared a path along the approach.
The melody repeated over and over. The elegant lion dance of Utenno.

Arrival at Hiyoshi Shrine

After about an hour, they arrive at the grounds of Hiyoshi Shrine, bringing their long, long journey to an end. Even the children who had been shouting along with the oni wore expressions of satisfaction despite their exhaustion. Under the cherry blossoms in full bloom, this year’s theater of dreams has come to an end.

Ending

Reference https://mg.minami.nagano.jp/group/ruriji (Japanese)

Date: Spring through fall (peaks in April and October)
Location: Sado 佐渡 Island City, Niigata Prefecture
Access: From various locations to Niigata 新潟 Station or Niigata Airport. From there, take a bus to Niigata Port, from where there are steamers to Sado Island. From Tokyo, it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours by Shinkansen to Niigata Port. There is also a way to get there from Naoetsu 直江津 via Naoetsu Port. From Niigata Port, you can go to Ryotsu 両津 Port, and from Naoetsu, you can go to Ogi 小木 Port, which are different arrival points.

There is an island where groups of drummers go from house to house. And they are demons, no less.
That name is Sado Island. Across from Tokyo lies Niigata Prefecture. From there, it’s another 30-minute to one-hour boat ride. It is the second-largest island in Japan, after Okinawa. There is a day on that island when demons visit every home. And the people look forward to it with anticipation. They say the demons are messengers of the gods. They are called oni, and the act of them beating drums is known as “Oni taiko (ogre drums).”People say this island is a treasure trove of performing arts. Among them, the most representative is this “Oni Taiko.” The locals also call it “ondeko. From spring to fall, the sound of taiko drums echoes throughout the island, and Oni dance in the air. There are more than 120 of them. It is true that the island is as large as the 23 wards of Tokyo, or about half the size of Osaka, but there are still many of them. Let’s take a look at what kind of Oni-daiko the islanders love so much.

Festival outline or “Kado-zuke 門付け”

Oni-daiko is an extremely simple art form consisting of a single drum, a drummer, and a dancer, the Oni. Oni Taiko festivals do not have a mikoshi (portable shrine) or pull a dashi around as in regular festivals. Instead, they do something called kadozuke 門付け. Kado means gate, and tsuke means to drop in, which means to visit each door. This is an old custom in which performers go from house to house to bless their families and in return receive a reward. In the past, many performers earned their money that way, but nowadays, the main purpose is to walk around blessing each house as God’s representative, rather than for remuneration. There is Ise Kagura centered in Mie Prefecture and a group of kagura performers who still travel over a wide area in Iwate Prefecture in the Tohoku region. Therefore, even if you go to the shrine on the day of the festival, there is nothing there. After the first and last dedication at the shrine, the group goes out to the community.

A day at Oni Taiko starts early in the morning. First, the group heads to a shrine. There they dedicate first formal dance. After that, they go to the village and perform the dance from door to door. Sometimes there are more than 100 houses in a village. When a group of taiko drummers arrives, people entertain them by preparing hospitality. If requested, a designated dancer other than oni may also dance. In addition, the masks may be displayed there for a time in the house where the original masks were made, or a special dance may be performed. After visiting all the houses, they return to the shrine to perform the dedication dance. It is not unusual for the dance to end around 10:00 p.m. This is why young people are always needed for the physical strength of the dancers.

Types of Oni-daiko

There are several classifications of oni taiko according to the way it is performed. There are three major categories, and five more detailed categories are often used. In order to avoid complications, we will inquire about three types. Types include the Maehama type, Aikawa type, and Kuninaka type, named after the region.
The most commonly seen is the Kuninaka type , in which two Oni, A (open-mouthed, not “ei”) and Um (closed-mouthed), dance alternately. This type is about 60% of the total. It is a form that was adopted by masters who learned Noh in the past. Therefore, the basic movement is to use a slip. The dance is also characterized by the intensity of the “A” and the quietness of the “Um”. Sometimes Shishi ( lions) is involved, which makes the dance more dynamic.
Maehama type is two oni facing each other and dancing. Sometimes a dancer wearing a mask with only the upper half of his face, called Rouso, joins them. The roso is the highest-ranking dancer in the group.
And the Aikawa type is often seen in the northwestern part of the island. Here, oni appear but do not dance. They just stand there with a spear. Instead, a dancer wearing an old man’s mask dances with a square to hold beans.

Representative Oni-daiko

Niibo-funashimo（新穂舟下）

Ryotu-Iwakubi（両津岩首）

Aikawa Maturi（相川祭り）

The Aikawa style of Onidaiko, which began in the Aikawa district, is named Onidaiko, but despite the name, the Oni (demons) do nothing. Or, not even Oni. The main actor is an old man (a virtuous old man), holding a bean-throwing square in his hand, which can often be seen in Setsubun 節分 (a ceremony held in February to drive away evil spirits). For example, in the Aikawa district, the birthplace of the festival, two people holding long swords simply stand there. Only the ogo (master) dances to the rhythm of the taiko drums.

Kita-Kawachi Matsuri (北川内祭り）

There are many other types of oni taiko with distinctive characteristics, such as the one-legged dancing style. It is no exaggeration to say that there are as many different oni taiko as there are districts and festivals. Sado is also a region that has handed down a variety of performing arts, not only oni taiko. Every year at the end of May, a festival is held to bring together all of Sado’s performing arts. Sado is an island where old Japan can be seen everywhere, and it is well worth a visit.

Sado Ondeko dotto komu : An event that brings together all the performing arts of Sado Island https://niigata-kankou.or.jp/event/2145
Sado long ride : A cycle event with several thousand participants on a 210 km up-and-down course that circles the island at its longest point.
https://sado-biyori.com/feature/sadolog/11502/

Date: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, ending on the first Sunday of August
Location: Ono minato shrine 大野湊神社 163 Ha ハ, Teranaka-cho 寺中町, Kanazawa 金沢, Ishikawa, Japan
Access: 5-minute walk from Nishi Keisatsu Sho-mae bus stop on Hokuriku Railway buses bound for 60 Kanaiwa 金石, 61 Ono 大野 and 63 Ono.

About 30 minutes from Kanazawa Station. About one bus every 30 minutes.

based on 2024.8.4.

Overview

Throughout the festival, various events take place, including processions of portable shrines, boats setting out to pray for a bountiful catch, and fireworks displays. In addition, groups of exorcists perform exorcisms at various locations throughout the town. However, since only locals—and especially those directly involved—know which locations they’ll visit that year, the best choice is still to check out the event plaza on the final day.

Main Events begin

People gather at the main venue for the festival’s final day around 4:00 p.m. The main venue is located near the Kanaiwa Bus Terminal, where the central road is completely closed off to create two stages, one at the front and one at the back. Each group performs on the first stage and then moves to the second stage to do the same.

One of the highlights is the performance by the Kaga Tobi. “Tobi” is the name of a bird resembling an eagle, but it also refers to people who work at heights. However, in the past, the term referred to firefighters. During the Edo period (the age of the samurai), when fires were common, these firefighters were the target of popular admiration. In particular, here in Ishikawa Prefecture—specifically the region known as Kaga, which boasted the greatest national power outside of the shogun’s domain—the Kaga firefighters were as popular as actors even in Edo. Performing feats such as climbing onto roofs or scaling tall ladders to assess the situation of a fire was not a spectacle, but an essential part of their job. Even today, fire departments often demonstrate these skills at New Year’s ceremonies and other events across the country.

Drive away evil from the town

Around 5 o’clock, the crowd begins to move in a circle around the venue. The main event is about to begin. It’s the height of summer, so even at 5 p.m., it’s still bright out.

Two men dressed strangely like ancient yamabushi ( Buddhist monk) lead a group to ward off evil spirits. They wear high clogs, umbrellas and carry metallic canes. They lead the way first, reading out the names of the gods and chanting the sutra. Mysterious spectacles catch the eye.
A group of flutes and drums around the area help to enliven the occasion.

And there are three main actors. Black Hannya 般若, Red Tengu 天狗and Brown Okina 翁 (old man). They hold a broadax, a bow and a sword to ward off evil, each facing four directions, slashing evil with a sword or other weapon and stamping on the earth. The footwork also follows the secret methods of the mountain priests of the past. The footwork follows the secret method of Yamabushi in the past. Ninja also followed this method of walking without making noise.

High school students play all three of the main actors. No one knows why, but it has been a rule for some time. After the three years are up, the rest of the time they play supporting roles. In other words, the last performance is the final culmination for the third-year students.

They spend three days going from door to door in the town to ward off evil. On the way, many spectators crowd the crossroads, community centers and other large places. They split into several small groups, which can be powerful as they may all go together in large places. And finally, the original Ono Minato Shrine precinct. Around 7.30 pm.

History and overview

Ono Minato Shrine is situated 15 minutes’ bus from Kanazawa city center towards the sea. It was founded around the 8th century. Fire destroyed it in the 13th century, after which a new shrine building was built nearby (current location). So, the people tried hard to get deities to return to them, but it was difficult to achieve this. The origin of this festival is that people began to pray for the deity to return to their original place at least once a year. The festival therefore begins with the construction of a temporary shrine building at the original location. Deities returns to their home shrine and then returns to the original shrine three days later. And during this time, various events take place in the town. The most popular of these is the ‘exorcism’ introduced here.

This is the festival of the Ono Minato Shrine, but in fact there is also another festival in the neighbor town of Hiyoshi 日吉 shrine, where a group of evil-dispelling people also take part. The summer in Kanazawa is hot from the end of July to August. This is the time of year when you can see the two faces of Kanazawa, the normal townscape and the festive town.

Date: Fourth Saturday to Sunday in July
Location: Ono hiyoshi shrine 大野日吉神社　5-81, Ono-cho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Access: Bus From Hokutetsu Bus Korinbo (5 mins walk from Ono bus stop)… approx. 30 mins
From JR Kanazawa Station (only a few buses) (5-minute walk from Ono bus stop)… approx. 20 mins.
On foot 　From Hokutetsu 北鉄 Bus Kanaiwa 金石 rotary … approx. 20 mins.
From Kanazawa Port … approx. 15 mins.

cf. Ono minato shrine https://oonominato.or.jp/about/tradition/natumaturi/ sorry only Japanese
Ono hiyoshi shrine http://www.ohnohiyoshi.com/fes/summer
Kanazawa city https://visitkanazawa.jp/en/

Welcome to Kanazawa

Kanazawa is not only the heart of Ishikawa Prefecture but also the center of the Hokuriku region. It is not merely a modern city; it is a place rich in diverse charms, featuring a castle, one of Japan’s most iconic gardens, historic streets, and cutting-edge art museums. Kanazawa seems to encapsulate all the best of Japan in one place—it’s definitely a place you’ll want to visit at least once.

Base data

Date：18th April Every two years (odd-numbered years)
Location ：Itosaki dera-temple 糸崎, 22-5 Itosaki Town, Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture
Access ：From Fukui Station, take Keifuku Bus (Echizen Kaigan Blue Line No. 10) for 1 hour, alight at Itozaki and walk 20 minutes.
　　　　To reach Fukui, take the Shinkansen if you are travelling from Tokyo. From Nagoya, take the Shinkansen to Maibara and then
the lmited express via Tsuruga. From Kyoto or Osaka take the limited express via Tsuruga.

based on 2025.4.15.

Buddha dances

What does it mean that Buddha dances? Roughly speaking, it means that Buddha statues move in costumes. An immovable statue of Buddha moves. In other words, the doll moves. You can see such a mysterious scene at a small temple on the coast of Fukui Prefecture.

Just standing there, they are not much different from ordinary Buddhist statues. But they move. Let’s visit the site first.

Head to Itosaki

Itosakidera-temple

A small temple quietly overlooks the sea. The road leading to the temple is crowded with cars only this day.

The audience surrounds the stage. Local primary and junior high school students also gather in one corner. And snack stands are open. Most of the spectators seem to be locals. You don’t see photographers lined up in a row. Scheduled to start at 1.30 pm. The scene 30 minutes before that.

Before the Dance of the Buddha

At 1.30, an announcement signals the start of the event. It’s finally time to begin. Yet the Buddha does not emerge immediately. Women wearing sedge hat come out. And sit and sing a song in praise of the Buddha.

Emergence of the main actors

15 minutes later, when the audience is ready, the main character appears. A group of musicians leads the way, followed by children, the Buddha.

Buddha dance

An announcement is made and the Buddha’s dance begins. But imagining something like modern dance will only disappoint you. According to legend, in the eighth century, when people enshrined a statue of Buddha in this temple, the Buddha danced happily. However, the earliest recorded date is the 19 century. It is the Buddha’s dance that people imagined more than 100 years ago. It is also divided into several dances, but it is difficult to tell the difference. A monotonous dance accompanied by a drum and a gong. In fact, the audience, who had been eagerly watching in the front row from the middle of the performance, gradually moved away to their desired position.

But it’s funny, and it starts to be fun. The monotonous rhythm creates a kind of hallucination state.
Then I started thinking about this. The event has been going on for at least 100 years. People in the past saw the same thing. It’s like a time machine. What were people thinking when they watched this? Did they think it was monotonous? Or was it grateful? Eventually, I began to hallucinate as if people from the past are standing there looking the same.

At the last dance, the Buddhas stopped dancing one by one. And when the lasted one stops moving, all the dancing came to an end. About an hour. At the end of the glittering but quiet event, the Buddhas walked up to the main hall.

At the end

Fukui Prefecture may not be a familiar place. However, there are a number of places to see, including the famous Zen temple Eiheiji 永平寺. I hope that one day you will also experience the mysterious Buddhist dance.

https://enjoy.pref.fukui.lg.jp/en

Date：24 April every year.

Location：7238 Oaza Nou, Itoigawa-city, Niigata prefecture

Access： Shinkansen from Tokyo. If Hakutaka, change at Itoigawa and take the Hisui Line to Nou. About 2.5 hours. If you take Toki, change at Echigo-Yuzawa and take the Hokuhoku Line to Naoetsu, then the Hisui Line to Nou 能生. From there it is a 20-minute walk. From the Osaka area, take the limited express train to Tsuruga, then head toward Niigata. If flying, take a flight from any airport to Niigata Airport, then travel on to Nou.

based on 2025. 4. 24.

Spring in the snow country

Bugaku 舞楽

Masked dance

Nohbatou 能抜頭

Ｎasori 納曽利

The king finally descends Ryo-oh 陵王

After the children’s dance, it is time for the final star of the show, the Ryo King. So, yes, this is the most famous of all bugaku dances, the “Lanryou ou(king) 蘭陵王” dance. The dance has the following anecdotes. Once upon a time, there was a brave warlord in a country called Northern Qi in China. But people rumored that he was too well-formed and feminine. Thinking this would not improve the morale of the army, he put on a frightening mask and fought and won a great victory. This legendary figure was a real person in the mid-6th century.

Let’s go to Nou

On taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo, the Toki and Hakutakas were continuous. Toki is a little cheaper. But that was a mistake. The transfer was not smooth and I ended up waiting for an hour in Naoetsu 直江津. Lesson 1. If you go to an unfamiliar place, you should have as much time as possible. And choose the route with fewer transfers.
The temperature in Niigata Prefecture on that day was 15 degrees. Even though it is over 20 degrees in all areas west of Tokyo, it is still cold. So, on the way, I could see the cherry blossoms in full bloom behind the snowy landscape from the train window.

Also, this route has a lot of tunnels. Stations are located between tunnels, some of them in tunnels.

Nou hakusan shrine　能生白山神社

People are gathered around the stage in the center. The right side of the entrance is stepped. In the front row, a couple dressed up in kimono. The shrine is said to have been built in the 3rd century; the main building, which was rebuilt in the early 16th century, is an important national cultural asset.
Why are these people sitting in the front row in formal dress? I found that out at the end of the festival. They were the parents of the children of “Chigomai”. They were probably proud and anxious at the same time to see their own children on the big day. After all the children’s dances were over, I could see them weeping involuntarily.
It was a moment when I could once again realized that this is what the festival is all about.

Hana Matsuri is a festival of rebirth. During the season when the days are at their shortest, people prayed for the rebirth of the sun. It is an ancient festival.
You can experience such a festival in Aichi Prefecture. The centre of Aichi Prefecture is Nagoya City, which can be described as a major city second only to Tokyo and Osaka. Toyota’s headquarters are also in Toyota City. That’s the sort of place it is. But it’s actually quite a struggle to get to the venue for this Hana matsuri (festival). The Hana Festival is currently held at 15 locations across Aichi Prefecture, but all of them are deep in the mountains, in places that can only be reached by driving endlessly up long, narrow, winding roads. As a result, travel agencies now organise tours to the area.
Consequently, travel agencies now organise tours to the event. The Hnamatsuri festival runs from November to March. It is said to have once lasted a whole week, but it has since been shortened. Even so, it can still go on for a day and a night.

Toyotetsu Sightseeing has also begun to offer tours. Even with a car, it is dangerous to go to a mountainous sight-seeing area at night. We recommend that those who wish to visit join a such a tour.

“Hanamatsuri” is a festival centered on Oni (ogres). So maybe there used to be a tour like this.

This article is based on the 2018 tour at Sakauba.

Date; The weekend in late November
Location; 29-4 Miyanoshima, Sakauba, Toyone Village, Kitashitara District, Aichi prefecture
Access; Approximately 1 hour and 5 minutes by car from the Shinshiro Interchange on the Shin-Tomei Expressway

Hello and welcome to the tour

Here comes the festival at last

Yamami-Oni 山見鬼

Tehohe, Tehohe,. Tewotole tole

Sakaki-Oni 榊鬼

It was around 3:30 in the morning when the Sakaki Oni, the main character of the Hana Matsuri, made his appearance.

First, the dance of the accompanying Oni enlivens the occasion.

Negi, Okina, Miko (or Oturuhyala) 禰宜、翁、巫女（おつるひゃら）

Breakfast, and Yubayashi 湯ばやし

Asa-Oni 朝鬼~ ending

After the Yamami-oni and Sakaki-oni, the last Oni appears. That is the “Asa-oni”. The literal translation is “morning oni. The Asa-oni knocks off the symbol of the gods that is suspended from the “maido”. Next, a lion appears to purify the scene. After that, People return the deities they invited back to where they came from, and all festivities come to an end.
But it’s time for us to leave.

Fifteen Hana Matsuri have survived throughout the region, and although the people in each community suffer from a shortage of labor, they held between November and March of the following year. In order to support the festival, buses run late at night from the nearest station to each area on the days when the festival is concentrated, and travel agencies offer tours such as the one introduced in this article. It is one of the festivals where you can feel the original landscape of the Japanese people.

I would like to conclude with a comment posted on Instagram by a young woman who lives in the area.
She commented, “Life in general is inconvenient here, too, but I think it’s okay to continue living here because of the Hanamatsuri.”

Official site of Aichi prefecture https://aichinow.pref.aichi.jp/en/events/detail/1637/

Official https://aichinow.pref.aichi.jp/features/detail/125/

Date: September 20 every year
Location: Kumakabuto shrine 熊甲神社, Miyamae, Nakajima town, Nanao city, Ishikawa prefecture, Japan
Access: The nearest station is Noto-nakajima 能登中島 Station. It takes about 4.5 hours from Tokyo to there by Shinkansen and limited express. From Kanazawa, it takes about 1.5 hours by limited express and local train. A shuttle bus runs from Noto-nakajima Station on the day of the festival. There are also city buses.

Festival flow

There is a heroic festival in the Noto Peninsula in which many Sarutahiko appear. On this day alone, the cheers of the people and the excitement of the festival overtake the usually quiet town. On this day only, the people who go to this place take a day off from school and work to attend the festival. And they stubbornly observe the 20th. This festival is filled with the spirit of the people.

The festival is held by 19 shrines associated with Kumakabuto Shrine and their residents.
The festival consists of three main parts. First, people from each town come to the shrine with portable shrines and flags (the flags are the key to the festival). Next, when all the townspeople gather, move to Otabisho which is about 500 meters away from the shrine. Finally, the participants perform a performance using flags at the otabisho. During these processions, the leader of the procession is Sarutahiko, an incarnation of the masked god. As readers of other articles on this site may know, Sarutahiko has always been the leader of Japanese festivals. Especially there’s a lot of them at this festival. There are at least two or three Sarutahiko in a town, and there are 19 towns in all. One of the highlights of the festival is that these Sarutahiko parade through the streets and shrines, performing their unique dances to the rhythm of gongs and drums. Let’s take a closer look.

The entry of the portable shrine into the shrine’s premises

Festival morning comes early. Around 7:00 a.m., people carrying portable shrines and flags from each town leave the town for the shrine. There are 19 towns in total, some of which face the sea. So people from these towns bring their portable shrines to nearby towns on boats. By about 8:00 all the town get together. For a distance of about 200 meters, the festival group, centering on the mikoshi, will line up in front of the shrine. Let me explain about the flag here. This flag is the most distinctive and symbolic feature of this festival. It is a long red flag, about 20 meters long, and is called “wakuhata 枠旗”. Unfortunately, due to a lack of volunteers to carry the flag, the length of the flag has been shortened to about 15 meters in many places these days.
Upon arrival, the first thing Sarutahiko does is tap on the steps of the main shrine. This is a greeting that he has arrived. Following this, people raise the flags in the precincts of the shrine with a loud shout. The ceremony lasts for about two and a half hours. This ceremony at once sends the audience into a whirlpool of excitement. When all towns arrive it will be approximately 10:30 am. From there, the arrival greeting ceremony begins. Led by Sarutahiko’s dance, portable shrines and tool bearers march in two lines to greet the gods. When all are assembled, the priest proceeds to the center and gives a festive greeting to the deity. Here all rituals in the precincts of the shrine come to an end. This is the first part.

Heading to the Otabisho 御旅所

Shimada kuzushi (Otabisho)

Guided by Sarutahiko, mikoshi and flags from each town depart one after another for Kamohara, the otabisho. The last group finally leaves the shrine around 2:00 PM when the first group arrives at Kamohara. The sight of red flags over 15 meters high lining the Kamohara and golden mikoshi (portable shrines) in the sun is spectacular. And here is the highlight of the festival: the flag parade.

Among them, the skill that people are most looking forward to is Shimada-kuzushi. It means to put it into disorder. It is a technique to knock down a long flag so as not to touch the ground. The origin of the name is as follows:. Once toppled, the flag touched the hair of a woman who came to see the festival and ruined her hairstyle. The name of the hairstyle is Shimada. It is said that the name ‘Shimada-kuzushi’ came from the fact. The festival continues until around 5:00 p.m., and the fervor continues unabated. Unfortunately, we can no longer use long flags like before. Because of the labor shortage in recent years. However, the spectacle and enthusiasm of the event is the same as in the past.

Ending

It takes only 2 hours to get there from Kanazawa (Kanazawa is 2.5 hours from Tokyo). In addition, Wakura 和倉 Onsen (hot spring) is just 15 minutes away. Wakura Onsen is also home to the most famous inn in Japan, Kagaya 加賀屋, which has been voted the best inn in Japan for many years in a row (though it is moderately priced).

In 2025, the Noto Peninsula was damaged by a major earthquake and also by heavy rain in the summer. It is still in the middle of reconstruction, but the people have been reviving the town with the indomitable spirit of never giving up, and the festival has continued. Why don’t you see the beauty of the Noto Peninsula, the strength of the people, and the valor of the festival with your own eyes?