A Bizarre Group Protecting a Giant Lion ~Street Cart Lion of Zakoji 座光寺の獅子舞

Date; The first Sunday in April every year
Location; Omi shrine 2516 Zakoji, Iida City, Nagano Prefecture
Access; If you’re coming from the Tokyo area, taking an express bus from Shinjuku is the most convenient and common option. It takes about 4 hours to reach Iida. From there, it’s about 10 minutes on the Iida Line to Motosenkoji Station. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the station. Taking the bus is also the most convenient option if you’re coming from the Nagoya area.

Zakoji official (Japanese) http://zakoji.jp/news/8054/

This article is based on a visit of 4th, April,2026.

Places to Visit During Cherry Blossom Season

Minami-Shinshu (southern Nagano Prefecture) is a treasure trove of yatai-shishi (A large vehicle float designed to resemble a lion). While the tradition originated at Ruri-ji Temple, it varies from region to region. So, what can we see here in Zakoji?
lion dance of Ruriji-temple https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/07/23/experience-the-origins-of-shinshus-lion-dance-under-the-fully-blooming-cherry-blossoms-the-lion-dance-at-ruriji-temple/

The nearest station is Moto-zenkoji Station. The area around it seems deserted, but if you walk a short distance along the road on the opposite side, you’ll find a variety of shops. It becomes clear that cars, rather than trains, are the primary mode of transportation in this area.

Still, it’s certainly true that this area’s appeal lies in more than just the number of shops.

This is the tree which is called “butai (stage) cherry

The weeping cherry tree is designated as a municipal natural monument.

Encountering them (the masked characters)

1:00 p.m. In front of the Moto-Zenkoji Station, a lion dance troupe is getting ready. And there’s another event cart nearby. This is a lion—but specifically, an Echigo lion. Echigo refers to what is now Niigata Prefecture. The name comes from the fact that, long ago, there were people (mostly children) who came from Echigo to entertain crowds with street performances featuring dancing and acrobatics to get money.
And…

There they are! A bunch of strange characters are coming in droves…

Geji, Okame and Hyottoko!

Basically, their role is to clear the way ahead. They purify and cleanse the path for the gods to pass through.

So, they sometimes take a break while the Echigo Lions are performing their dance.

The Lion is Finally on the Move

It was 2:30 p.m. While the Echigo Lion Dance troupe demonstrated their performance in front of the station and in front of the Moto-Zenkoji Temple, a group centered around the main lion figure was making preparations on the road leading to Omi Shrine.

And here, too, are some mysterious masked characters…

That’s right—they, too, are the Lion’s entourage’s advance guard.

And today’s stars—the ones leading the lion dance—are these three brothers. Their story is rooted in a Kabuki play. How dignified these children look as they take on such important roles, all dressed in Kabuki makeup!

It is based on a play in which three brothers, seeking revenge against their parents’ enemy, engage in a sword fight with their adversary, who is riding in an ox-drawn cart. It is said that this effect was achieved by using an ox cart as a stand-in for a lion’s chariot. In other words, local theater has long been a thriving tradition in this region.

Finally, a dedication at the shrine

Around 3:30, the Echigo Lion Group arrives at the shrine a little ahead of the other lion groups.

Just before 4:00 p.m. The group of lions finally arrives.

A large crowd has gathered. The tengu leading the way are also very busy.

One of the highlights is watching the giant lion climb the stairs.

After that, a fierce scramble begins as people grapple with one another—some trying to grab the “lion flower” placed atop the lion, others getting thrown aside, and still others attempting to climb the lion while others try to stop them.

But it’s about time to head home. It’s probably time to bid farewell to this place, savoring the slightly belated spring that has finally arrived.

Warning: Tengu appear on this mountain. ～The ship festival at Tatsuno 辰野

Date; The third Sunday in October every year
Location; 9610 Inafu, Tatsuno Town, Kamiina District, Nagano Prefecture
Access; If you’re coming from the Tokyo area, take the Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku to Okaya (about 2.5 hours), then take the Iida Line for just under 20 minutes to Haba. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the station.
From the Osaka or Nagoya area, take the Limited Express Shinano to Shiojiri (about 2 hours), then take the Chuo Line to Okaya, transfer to the Iida Line, and get off at Haba.　By bus, take the express bus and get off at Ina Bus Terminal, then take the Iida Line from Ina City Station to Haba.

This article is based on 20th October 2024

Why a sailing ship, even though the place is in the mountains?

The Azusa Limited Express, with a transfer to a local line, takes about 3 hours

After arriving at a small station deep in the mountains, there was a festival here called “the Boat Festival.”

After walking for about 15 minutes, a small shrine finally comes into view. Then, visitors must climb a long, long flight of stairs to reach the top. But just before that, there’s a sign that catches one’s eye…

“This is mountain where ” Tengu” lives !?” A mysterious message… Yet the people who have gathered here seem to be having a good time. It’s a festival full of mysteries.

The “boat” arrives, and the festival begins

Around 1:30 in the afternoon, the “boat” finally arrives at the square. The people carrying it spin it round and round, and

While the crowd was making a commotion over the ship’s arrival, a lion—and even a tengu—suddenly appeared from inside the ship. This is No.1 Tengu.

Tengu make strange “Ho-ho” sounds, wrestle with the lion, and roll around among the crowd. That’s right—this tengu doesn’t walk; instead, it runs on all fours and rolls around.

The Mountain Where Tengu Run Amok

Just as one wonders, “Did the tengu disappear somewhere?”, it suddenly appears from the top of the mountain. It’s the second tengu making its entrance.

“Oh, I found something.” If children aren’t careful, they’ll get caught by a tengu. Will the kids be thrilled? No.
Come to think of it, they say that tengu run around barefoot without ever getting hurt. Is this another feat of their supernatural powers?

The Last Tengu Flys Out

And finally, the last tengu leaped out of the “boat.” They say the tengu become more and more aggressive as they emerge, in the order they appear.

One moment the tengu was at the temple, and the next he was dashing around the mountaintop,

or tumbling down the mountainside. It’s a muddy struggle.

Ending

Once the commotion caused by the tengu subsides, people begin to gather around the lion. Then, the lion takes a big bite out of its head…

This is a common sight at lion dance performances; it is a custom based on the legend that having the lion bite your head brings good health and happiness.

It’s a strange festival to have a boat appear in the mountains, but there’s a legend behind it. The lions were outsiders who demanded to be allowed to live in this land. The tengu were the ones who dealt with them. It is said that an agreement was reached during the third round of negotiations, and the lions came to dwell in this land. Hearing this, many people are reminded of the Izumo myth. In that myth, a messenger from Amaterasu visits Okuninushi to demand that he cede his land; after three rounds of negotiations, Okuninushi finally agrees, and Amaterasu gains possession of the land.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/okuninushi-hnded-over-his-own-country-to-amaterasukuni-yuzuri-%e5%9b%bd%e8%ad%b2%e3%82%8a/
Simply put, it’s a memory of invasion by a powerful force. Perhaps something similar happened in this land in the past. I don’t know any specific details. Memories of certain things linger on like this in people’s minds forever.

Just past 3:00 p.m., the chaos and commotion subsided, and the mountain regained its usual tranquility. At the foot of the shrine, a pair of deities, praying for the people’s peace and well-being, watched us leave.

Tatsuno town https://www.town.tatsuno.lg.jp/gyosei/soshiki/sangyoshinkoka/kankosite/4/1144.html

Experience the origins of Shinshu’s lion dance under the fully blooming cherry blossoms ~the Lion dance at Ruriji temple 瑠璃寺の獅子舞

Date; The second Saturday and Sunday of April every year
Location; 812 Ojimasan, Takamori Town, Shimoina District, Nagano Prefecture
Access; From Shinjuku in Tokyo, it takes about 4 hours to reach Takamori by express bus bound for Iida. From there, it’s a 15-minute walk. If you’re coming from the Osaka area, take the express bus from Nagoya.
By train, take the limited express from Tokyo to Okaya, then take the Chuo Line to Tatsuno. From there, transfer to the Iida Line and get off at Ichida or Motozenzōji Station. The trip takes about four and a half hours. From there, it’s about a one-hour walk.

This article based on 14th, April, 2024

A Trip to the Ina Valley in Search of the Origins of the Roadside Stall Lion Dance

All of the photographs shown here depict lion dances from the southern region of Nagano Prefecture (Shinshu), commonly known as the Ina Valley. A distinctive feature of these dances is that massive floats, representing lions, parade through the town. The lion dance at Ruriji Temple is the origin of all of these traditions.

A “yatai lion” is essentially a smaller version of a festival float covered with a curtain and fitted with a lion’s head at the front. Since it has wheels, several people can get inside to move it, and it can also be used to transport necessary items. For more details, please refer to the article below.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/08/30/shishi-dance-in-ruri-dera-temple/

Head to Ruriji Temple

Here, we’ll introduce a route that involves walking uphill from a train station. The nearest stations are Ichida and Motozenzōji; while Motozenzōji requires a slightly longer walk, it has more restaurants and other eateries. From there, you simply walk straight up the country road.

You’ll sometimes find convenience stores in places where you’d think, “Here?” They’re truly the town’s aid stations.

Around noon. The event is scheduled to start at 1:00 p.m., but several booths have already been set up at the temple, offering everything from food to sundries. A fair number of people have gathered. It’s no wonder—this lion dance is very popular.

Messenger Monkey

The flowers are in full bloom. Actually, down below, the peak blooming season has already passed, but here at an elevation of 900 meters, it’s right at its peak right now.
Meanwhile, a bunch of monkeys were hopping around—some big, some small, and quite a few of them. Truth be told, at Hiyoshi Shrine near Ruri-ji Temple, the messenger is a monkey. That’s why monkeys play an important role in this lion dance. Here, children dressed as monkeys are seen paying their respects at the shrine.

Beginning

A curtain is draped over the assembled lion’s body, and preparations are nearing completion.

There’s a line in a song that goes, “Ina has seven valleys.” Below are the villages; across the way are the mountains.

Following the children in their festive attire, the monks make their entrance.
Once the monkey begins organizing the audience, the festival is finally about to begin.

Dance of Ryo-oh

2:00 p.m. The “Ryō-ō no Mai” dance is performed first. Although this dance had been discontinued for quite some time, a group of volunteers revived it to commemorate the 900th anniversary of the temple’s founding.
“Ryō-ō” is a piece from the traditional court dance and music tradition.

The lion dance is finally about to begin

Two demons suddenly burst onto the scene and intimidate the audience. The lion dance is finally about to begin. The demons’ role is to keep the audience from coming forward.

Then, the star of the day, Utenno, makes his appearance. He awakens this sleeping giant lion and leads it from Ruri-ji Temple to Hiyoshi Shrine.

“His shoes don’t quite fit right,” the monkey says as he adjusts them. The monkey does things like this, too. Quietly, quietly, Utenō faces off against the lion. Then, when Utenno steps on the cord, the lion, suddenly awakened from its slumber, begins to rampage. The tempo of the music also shifts to a faster pace.

At last, Utenō, accompanied by the lion, exits the gates of Ruri-ji Temple. After walking down a slight slope from Ruri-ji Temple and turning at a right angle, he enters the approach to Hiyoshi Shrine.

Walking along the approach path beneath the flowers in full bloom

“The blossoms are in full bloom this year—it’s the best yet,” said an organizer with a delighted smile. The demon roared, intimidating the audience. The monkey, with a composed expression, cleared a path along the approach.
The melody repeated over and over. The elegant lion dance of Utenno.

Arrival at Hiyoshi Shrine

After about an hour, they arrive at the grounds of Hiyoshi Shrine, bringing their long, long journey to an end. Even the children who had been shouting along with the oni wore expressions of satisfaction despite their exhaustion. Under the cherry blossoms in full bloom, this year’s theater of dreams has come to an end.

Ending

It’s already past 3:00 p.m. To get home, you have to go to the central station nearby, called Iida. From here, you head down another long, long hill.

Reference https://mg.minami.nagano.jp/group/ruriji (Japanese)