Report: Would you mind spending a calm day at a place away from urban noise?~part 3 Yamanashi Oka shrine Daidaikagura

Date: 4th & 5th April
Location Kasugai town Shizume 1696, Fuefuki city, Yamanashi prefecture
Access It takes about two hours by express “Kaiji” (JR line) from Tokyo to Isawa onsen station. From the station, about 20 minutes on foot.

Yamanashi prefecture

access from Tokyo
access from Tokyo

Introduction

 This time two guides are going to take you to the Yamanashi Oka shrine again. Yes, you are already familiar with them, Sarutahiko, a deity and Modoki, a traditional comedian.

Sarutahiko and Modoki visit the shrine
Sarutahiko and Modoki visit the shrine

Isawa onsen station
Isawa-onsen station

a road to the shrine

It takes quite some time, doesn’t it?

It is about 1.2 or 1.4 kilometers from the station.

Why didn’t you take a taxi. Moreover, though the station’s name is hot spring (onsen means hot spring in Japan) I can’t feel any atmosphere like hot springs.

Don’t be winging! We came here to watch and guide a kagura, not to take a bath.This shrine has a long and distinguished history. It is said that Yamanash prefecture’s name is was taken after this shrine. Have you heard the name “Takeda Shingen 武田信玄” ?

Sorry but I don’t know.

“Takeda shingen” is a famous warlord who had ruled this region about 450 years ago. People in this prefecture have respected and loved him till now. He is a kind of hero in this region.

And what?

This kagura is performed to wish for his victory when he went to war.

Oh, really? By the way, we are walking toward the mountain opposite from the town of hot springs. Is this the right way?

a bridge by the shrine

in front of the shrine
flags tells the festival

the shrine

the Hon-den
the Hon-den 本殿

Here we are. This is the shrine.

the kagur-den

a corridor between the kagura-den and the dressing room

 The small kagura-den is the center of the precincts. This kagura-den has a corridor like a bridge between the kagura-den and a dressing room. This is the feauture of this shrine.

before midday

 first program~a deity of planting rice It starts about 10 am and is played for 20 minutes.

a deity of planting rice

a deity of planting rice

The mask looks old but good. I feel history and tradition.

You are getting to learn about watching a kagura. If I were to add something, dancers continue playing as long as they live, especially men. Now the group of dancers consists of about 30 people. All are volunteers. And I have to tell you at first, this kagura has no elements of comedy.

That’s too bad.

a fox coming out

a fox and a deity

Oh, talking about a deity of agriculture, here comes a fox as a messenger of a deity. Now, how energetic he is.

a fox is working

a fox is working

This fox is a very popular and familiar character in this kagura. A man who plays this role has to have acting talent.

And he has to have physical strength as much as acting talent, doesn’t he?

a deity has left

a fox is energy

You may be right about the point that the fox is more energetic than the player acting as a deity of planting rice at least,

 a dance of ”Ameno Uzume” It starts about 10:45 for 20 minutes.

A player who plays the role as Ameno Uzume often wears a kind of “Okame” mask or something similar, but she wears nothing.

In this kagura group, the woman is called “princess”. They are to graduate this group by the time they reach high school age.

 ”Four archers“  It starts at about 11 am and plays for 20 minutes.

four dancers on the stage

they dance

Coming out are four men, the stage looks narrow. Why won’t they bump into each other?

They have practiced extensively throughout the year, and every night before the festival. How about your case?

Me? I am always in a willy-nilly way. I play by ear.

if it’s really, you are absolutely fool or genius

 Dance of Sarutahiko It starts at about 11:30 and plays for 20 minutes

Sarutahiko

sarutahiko is dancing in Japanese traditional folk performing art

Oh yes! Sarutahiko is coming out. But, is he really Sarutahiko? His face is not red. I have always expected Sarutahiko having a red face.

Right, he is just Sarutahiko. I guess the color of the mask had worn off because it’s too old.

Intermission

the Hon-den
the Hon-den of the shrine

around the shrine

It’s lunch break for one hour. Let’s walk around the shrine.

Sounds good. I see trees of cherry blossoms in the precincts, but outside the shrine, many peach trees are distinctive.

Actually, Fuefuki city is the largest producer of peaches in Japan. The peach festival* is held this season.

*Refer→https://japan-attractions.jp/festivals/togenkyo-harumatsuri/ Japan attractions

That explains why there are many peach trees on my way here.

Second part ~afternoon

 ”Iwato-biraki” It starts at 1 pm. *please confer→Japan mythology

flower and kagura-den

instruments player

Today is very fine. Musicians couldn’t help looking at the flowers.

Many deities appear on the stage in this program. Because it represents the scene where all the deities gathered at Amano-Yasugawara to solve the problem when Amaterasu, the sun deity, had hidden.

a deity comes in

a deity dances in kagura (Japanese traditional folk performing art)

two deities dance

two deities are on the stage

dancing players are on the stage

there are many players

You are right. Many deities appear on the stage one after another.

Can you see the black board at the center of the stage? That is the “Amano-iwato”(the door made of rock).

black face is dancing

sword man is playing

Ebisu
Ebisu, a deity of fortune

a deity of planting rice
a deity of agriculture

a deity of battle
a deity of battle

Many deities come in, so we can watch dances of deities who don’t perform their own programs today.

Ebisu is also on. By watching this program only, we can say we have seen most of kagura. It’s a bargain.

powerful dance

Ebisu dances

many deity are on the kagura stage (Japanese traditional folk performing art)

sarutahiko dances

It seems that there are so many deities that it’s hard to find a place to sit down. When will this end?

Tajikarao

Tajikarao

Look, that’s powerful walking. And his face has black lines like Kabuki’s “Kumadori”. In Japanese traditional Kabuki 歌舞伎, lines (it is said “Kumadori”) on a face represent powerful and strong character. I’m sure he is “Tajikarao”, The most powerful deity. He must open the “Iwato” and pull out “Amaterasu”. Finally this program will reach a climax.

he pull the door off.

Amaterasu finally  appers.

amaterasu is dancing

amaterasu and many deities

Hey,look at that. The black board that Tajikarao holds is “Amano-Iwato”.

Is that girl who wears a golden crown on her head “Amaterasu”?

Yes. This is a scene where every deity is pleased to have light of the sun come back. This is the most famous happening in Japanese mythology.

they are leaving

they are leaving

they are leaving

they are leaving

What time is it now?

It’s 2:30 pm. As one would expect, this program has took one and half hours.

 ”Black old man” and “Two swords

the kagura stage

a black mask as old man

a girl holds two swords
 ”Four swords men”

four swords men

four swords men

The men holding swords come in again. As expected it is said “The kagura for going to the field”, there are many programs in which the sword is used.

This program has another name “Kume mai (dance)”. We can find this name in the records of the first emperor. The records say that this dance was played for the first emperor’s victory of battle.

Really?This is a really traditional and important program.

So they say when Takeda Shingen was going to war, this was played to wish his victory.

Ending

he is Ohyamatsumi

he will throwing many gifts

ending

His name is “Ohyamatsumi”. He is the main enshrined deity. After his playing, they are to throw many gifts every time.

a peach trees

many peach trees around the shrine

I got many gifts this time again. Kagura is a happy event. By the way, is this kagura held two more times?

Yes. It is held tonight and tomorrow.

Would you mind watching another two more times?

Good! You are finally coming to recognize the attraction of kagura.

So we have to stay tonight, don’t we?

I have noticed your intention. You don’t care about kagura, you only wish to take a bath at hot spring, don’t you?

Oh, you understand. Let’s go.

  to be continue to part 4




Report: ~It is just 10 minutes but, those 10 minutes will remain in the memory forever~Ogre fire festival in Takizanji -temple 滝山寺の鬼まつり

the ceremony's scene

Date; the nearest Saturday to the old calendar is New Year holiday of the 7th of January (about 1 month later than the present calendar, 15th February 2020)

Location; Takizan town komo 107, Okazaki city, Aichi prefecture

Access; about 30 minutes by bus from Higashi Okazaki station (Meitetsu line). Higashi Okazaki is about 45 minutes by train from Nagoya

Aichi prefecture
Aichi prefecture

Okazaki city
Okazaki city

Tkizanji-temple's location
Takizanji-temple (red point)

Introduction

 This time, an event we introduce is “Takizanji no oni matsuri” (Ogres fire festival in Takizanji-temple). It is held in Aichi prefecture. The climax of three ogres emerging around fire is really awsome. This event starats at 4:00 pm, but the time the ogres emerge is at the very end only 10 minutes before the end. It will be at about 7:45 pm. So, you must wait for 2 to 3 hours, if you see it from front. But, lot of people still go. They say it’s worth waiting for long time.

Higashi Okazaki station
Higashi Okazaki station

front of the station and first shogun's statue
Okazaki is the place first Shogun of Edo shognate was born

 I went there 2020, so I write this article based on that time. But, the flow of the festival is the same every year.
 On the day, the bus leaves every 30 minutes from Higashi Okazaki (東岡崎) station (Meitetsu line). If you go by car, there is a park in a place little far from the temple . A shuttle bus goes from there.

 When I arrived there at 5:00 pm. You get off a bus, you go up the long stairs.

around the temple

the temple
several street stands open

long stairs to the monastery
long stairs

at the temple

the main hall (Hon-den)
The main hall (Honden 本殿)

left side
left side

front side
front

right side
right side

 You see a big main hall in front when you finish going up the last stairs. The beam of the roof greatly protrudes from main hall. The roof which covers the stage is large and imposing. People had already lined in three rows around the main hall (Honden) and camera tripods were lined, too. I guess they had waited from around noon.
 There are several big barrels filled with water to the beam and in front of th main hall, and the firefighting team stands by, too.
 On the left of me, there is another 2 story building, it is already full of guests. They are visitors who reserved special dishes (\4,000 as of 2020). 2 big torches which are set at the entrance are waiting to be lit to signal the start. In an average year, they say that it smows, that day was comparatively warm.

big barrels
big barrels

Junininshu (twelve people)
Junininshu 十二人衆

 I will write mostly about the climax, but I’ll example the flow for the time being. If you want to Jump to the climax, scroll to the end, please.

 This temple was built in 686 AD. At the end of the 12th C, the temple had accepted it’s faith from Minamoto-no Yoritomo who established his Shogunate at Kamakura, so this temple ushered in the golden age. Following a decline from 15 C~16 C, it was revived by the protection of the Tokugawa (Shogun of Edo shogunate 17 C~19 C) and continues up to the present day.
 People who are called “Junininshu 十二人衆(12 people) manage the whole festival. They are the people who inherit this role from generation to generation, And a person who is called “Taiyaku (it means general manager) gives instructions.

taiyaku (main role)
Taiyaku 大役

a chief priest
a chief priest

 At 4:30 pm, they beat Taiko (Japanese drum), and at 5:30 pm, the chief priest enters the temple, Buddhist memorial service begins.
It usually gets dark at around this time.
 Juninin-shu group starts to go around the temple for the purpose of purging noxious vapors.

on the stage

three people of the ogres
3 people as roll of the ogres

Meanwhile, a program host introduces the 3 people, 2 adults and 1 child, who play the leading parts of the ogres. They must purity themselves for 1 week. They can’t eat any meat, and can’t accept help from women. So, fathers offer their dishes to the children.

 In this festival, 3 ogres emerge. They are called “mask of grandfather”, “mask of grandmother”, and “mask of grandson”. Why are there not “mask of father” and “mask of mother” ? There is a mysterious legend. Once upon a time, two priests visited this temple and they said “Shall we wear masks ?”. They wore masks without purifying themselves. They could not take off the masks and they had just died. People who felt pity kindly burried them. A grave remains now in this temple, so the group goes to the place to pray.

ceremony

ceremony

 At 6:30 pm, people throw beans and rice cakes for good fortune.
 At 7:00 pm, two young people get on the stage and wield long swords, “Naginata 長刀” for purging noxious vapors in the east and west. After this performance, two of the Juninin-shu perform a play of imitation of farming. They use words from the Kamakura period which even few modern Japanese can understand.

people singing
Juninin-shu sing a song

ceremony starts

fire and ogres~climax of the ceremony

 Finally they sing a song. By this time, the precincts would be overflowing and crowded with people. After they get off the stage, a young person holding a long sword gets on the stage again. He wields it, and in the end, he swirls it around and slams it down against the floor, making great noise. This abruptly signals the start of the main event.

many ogres and people in fire

 Many people holding a big torch (about 2.5 meters long) with fire emerge. They shout in a loud voice “Wah, Wah, Wah !”. Fire alarm bells resound intensely. They wore a white towel covering their heads and cheeks and were dressed in all white. A fire blazed as if it reaches the roof. Sounds of fire alarm bell gave the audience great surprise making them feel uneasy at first, but later shout for joy. The area is instantly thrown into a commotion. The scene is amazing and fantastic.
  They emerge from the right side and enter the left side of the main hall. The ogres still do not emerge. From the next lap, the ogres finally appear.

grandfather ogre
Grandfather ogre

grandmother ogre
Grandmother ogre

 At first, the grandfather ogre, second, followed by grandmother ogre and at last, the grandson emerges.

grandso ogre
grandson ogre

grand son ogre between torches

 Ogres siddled along between a big fire. Only grandson walks on the handrail held by people beside both side. There are about 30 torches is almost like a fire. This building is an important cultural property, so I was afraid of it burning down. But the people almost seemed as if they did not care about that, and they swung the torch up and down.

grandson ogre

many people and ogre are on the stage

 sparks were scatterd intensly, the fire blazed mor and more. Halfway during the lap, the grandson ogre was held high at the corners and at the front.

grandson ogre

 He totally looked like king of demons. But these ogres are not demons. They held a big rice cake in their hands, because they are ogres giving fortune to people. And a rice cake is a symbol of New Year’s fortune.

grandfather ogre

grandmother ogre

grandfather ogre

grandson ogre

people and fire

grandson ogre between fire

 They went around the hall 3 times and it suddenly finished.
 Time goes by frantically.

fireman

many buses

 They were left stupe fied for a while, and before long they returned to reality. and begin getting ready to go back home.
 There is an open space on the way out as the audience go down stairs where buses waited for them. The bus to the station from next line to the row of buses going to the parking lots. The buses depart in order as soon as it become full.

 I think that this event is worth going despite the long waiting time. The experience of the ogres fire festival at Takizanji-temple, Lasts only 10 minutes but will remain our memories forever.




Report: Strange parade – Lion Dance in Ogawaji 小川寺の獅子舞

the parade of Japanese traditional folk performing art
strange parade of variants in Ogawaji, Uozu cuty

Date 4th January, 12th March, and 12th October pm 2:00~
Location Senkoji-temple, Ogawaji, Uozu city , Toyama prefecture
How to get there It takes 20 minutes from Toyama station or Unazuki-kurobe station

Toyam prefecture
Toyama prefecture 富山県

Uozu city
Uozu city 魚津市

Introduction

 An event we’ll look at this time is “Lion Dance in Ogawaji”.
 This event is held on March 12th (and other days) in Uozu city in Toyama prefecture. Toyama prefecture is very prosperous region of Lion Dance, the performed number is over 850 now. There are a significant number of various kinds, and there are 10 main kinds we can break down into 3 categories. In that, the Ogawaji Lion Dance is classified as “Gyoudo Shishi” (Lion guiding the way), it follws the traditionl style.
 I went to see this event in 2018. The following is from then.

 If you want to go to Uozu ciity, you have two options, Shinkanswen or express bus.
*in all of the above routes, the starting point is from Tokyo
 In the case of a train, from Tokyo you will take the Shinkansen to KUrobe Unzuki-onsen (黒部宇奈月温泉), transfer Toyama local line (Dentetsu Toyama; bound for Dentetsu Toyama (電鉄富山) station , for Shin Uozu(新魚津) station.
It takes about 2~3 hours and costs about \ 14,000. If you take a bus, from Tokyo to Toyama station, and transfer to the local line (Ai no Kaze Toyama あいの風富山) line; bound for Tomari 泊) and stop at Uozu station. The Uozu station is in front of Shin-Uozu station. It takes 8 hours and costs about \ 8,000). After arriving in Uozu city, you can take local bus (Kurosawa 黒沢 line) and get off at Ogawaji bus stop. But, there is only one bus every 2 hours, if you take a bus, you must get on a bus at 11:50, Kurosawa line (as of January 2020).

Tokyo station
Tokyo station 東京駅

a Shinkansen
Shinkansen  新幹線

 When I went to this event, I took a Shinkansen at 9:38 (from Tokyo). the Shinknasen crossed Honshu, by way of the still snowy Nagano prefecture, after a little over 2 hours, I arrived at about 12 o’clock.

a iew of Nagano

Shin Kurobe station
Shin Kurobe station 新黒部駅
is front of Kurobe Unzauki Onsen

Dentetsu Toyama line
Dentetsu Toyama line 電鉄富山線

front of Uozu station
front of Uozu station

In Uozu city

 The event starts at 2:00. The next bus will leaves at 12:38 (as in 2018). I had a little time, so I stopped by the tourist information center. A person working there was very kind and loved the city. I got a lot of information and many booklets. I heard that it’s about 4 kilometers from here to Ogawaji and road is flat. I decided to rent a bicycle. All are electric assist bicycle which are available from the information center, it costs \ 100~300.

Uozu city and Tateyama mountain range
Uozu city and Tateyama mountain range

a rant bicycle

 It’s very fine, but the air is cold and feel chilly. Is this because it was still March or because this was Toyama? I was comfortable cycling, while seeing the snowy Tateyama mountain range. The city is very calm.

a road to Ogawaji
a road to Ogawaji

Senkoji-temple
Senkoji temple 千光寺

Senkoji-temple

The Kannon-do
The Kannondo 観音堂

 I wonder, if I run some 2~30 minutes, I might finally arrive at the destination. It is the “Senko-ji temple”. There are steps for the “Kannon-do hall” right next to the building.

the Hakusan shrine
The Hakusan shrine 白山社

a strange man

 The precincts of the Kannon-do hall are unexpectedly large. About 2~30 people already were as if surrounding the Kannon-do hall. The neighboring building is the Hakusa shrine. As for the men, while the women gather in the Hakusan shrine, the men gather in Kannondo hall. In the Kannon-do hall a priest gives sutra-chanting, and Shinto priesthood gives a congratulatory address in the Hakusan shrine. This is a rare event, mixing Buddhism and Shintoism. In Japan, originally, the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism was widely seen from the Heian period (9~10 C) until the Meiji restoration (1968), and Shinto and Buddhism were not distinguished from each other as a general rule. Therefore a trace is sometimes still seen in this way.

 A group is going to do seven laps here. On that day, the event was going to begin at 2:00 pm, but it was half past 2 and it started at 3:00 after all. A Buddhist priest seemed to be late for a funeral.

strange men at the shrine

before parade

 I looked at some strange people who come up the stairs between some trees. It may be finally beginning. First, they stopped at the Hakusan shrine 白山社 and gathered at the foot of the steps, they then received purification of the Shinto priesthood. Several children who hold the flags stood up. With them in the lead, a parade begin.

The parade has began

the parade has started

Tengu,a lead of the parade
Tengu 天狗

 Strange people appeared with flute and drums before us who were wating. At first, it is Tengu 天狗. The kind look that some mind seems to be weak here through Tengu is severe or it is a scary image. He come while jump up and down lightly.

many strange men

baba-men (masked character)
baba-men ばば面

 They walk with their hands and feet at same time. Next, two people following Tengu walk towards the same direction. They don’t jump, instead of push their hand up front powerfully with one step forward while glaring at front. They are called “baba-men(mask)”. Further more, they wear distinctive clothes characteristic. One is the pants of the striped pattern on showy clothes, and another is all striped. And after all, to catch the eyes is a strange headpiece. It seems like a crown. I have never seen anything like that. It is not Japanese -style at all. Where did this design come from?

the lion

the lion
Chinese Lion (Shishi) 獅子

 Next comes a lion. Even though I call a lion, this is a Chinese legendary creature, it is totally different from the real animal. Japanese call them Kara-jishi (Chinese Lion). In Japan, there are many folk performing art about this Chinese lion. They are called Lion Dance. Lion Dance has various kinds. In this Ogawaji, it is the oldest style. They are only walking. Though, it’s very tough to walk while lowering the body. Older men say that they cannot walk for a muscular.

anema-mask

an anema mask
anema-men (mask) あねま面

 And the lion following is a woman called “Anema”. She is coiffured old style and mouth bends for some reason and is walking while raising a sleeve by one step. And flute players, drum players and portable shrine. Though they say portable shrine (mikoshi 神輿), they pull it on a carriage. It is difficult for a few people to carry it on shoulder, so it become today’s style. They decided to concider it to walk around 7 laps for walk around all town.

mikoshi
mikoshi 神輿

a tale of the parade

 This event is only they repeat this 7 times. It seems very strange.

 

Tengu

baba-men

baba-men

anema

 Legend saya that both “baba-men” and “anema” was old heros and heroine. Name was Morimoto Sanemon, Joudou Rokubei and Omatsu. They fight with next village or avaricious feudallord. But now, we do not know the merely true meaning. Only this strange event has remained today.

parade is braaking

wating

a Shinto priest

many starange people

 A break time enters once on the way. They sit in front of Kannon-do, Shinto priest read a long address to the deities. After this, they walk aronud again.

Tengu

baba-men

the lion

 After they finished laps, they came back to the starting place, under the Hakusan shrine. The event is finished.

a parade
a strange man (masked character)

tengu and anema

 At the event, they accept taking a ceremonial photograph.
 Totally about 30 minutes, this event had finished.

 If you want to video, please click here.↓

   for your information
http://go-centraljapan.jp/lsc/lsc-upfile/pamphlet/01/33/133_1_file.pdf Pocket Guide Uozu

 If you have some time, I recommend sightseeing around Toyama. The place where there are old cityscapes, hot springs and natural. There are many places for sightseeing.

world heritage “Gokayama”

castle and park

natural “Kurobe”

old town “Kanaya”

evry pictures from https://www.info-toyama.com/spot/21100/ Toyama prefecture とやま観光ナビ 

  Reference
https://foreign.info-toyama.com/en/ Tourism information in Toyama