A Festival Full of Demon Characters: Chayamachi Oni Festival 茶屋町鬼まつり



Date; The third Sunday in November every year
Location; Chayamachi, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture—Chayamachi Station Plaza
Access; It takes about 20 minutes from Okayama Station on the local train bound for Kojima. From Tokyo, it takes about 3 hours by bullet train (Shinkansen). From Hakata, it takes about 1.5 hours.

Kurashiki city official https://www.kurashiki-tabi.jp/rm_see/rm-see221/

Oni, Oni, Oni

It’s about a 20-minute train ride from Okayama Station. When you arrive at Chayamachi Station, you’ll be greeted by a demon (called Oni). When you walk right out of the station, you’ll see…

Oni, oni,oni…Anyway, it’s full of Oni.Today is the Oni Festival.

There’s even a bronze statue of oni in front of the station.

Not only are there masks on display, but there are also oni wandering around. There were stalls selling Oni merchandise and food and drink vendors.

Don’t miss the Oni Taiko drum performance

A drum performance by the Oni demons on stage.

On that day, there was one performance around 11:00 a.m. and another around 2:00 p.m.
According to old local records, an oni named Ura was originally vanquished. However, as is likely the case everywhere, it may also symbolize the battle between the invading army and the local forces.
In the opposite direction, there’s also a popular tourist spot and a historic district. You’ll want to visit both. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/07/18/kurashiki-the-town-of-historic-warehouses-is-always-a-popular-tourist-destination/




A Beautiful Town with White-Walled Houses ~Yanai 柳井



Location; Yanai-tsu, Yanai City, Yamaguchi Prefecture
Access; From Tokyo, it takes just under two hours by plane to Iwakuni Kintaikyo Airport. From there, take a bus to Iwakuni Station, and it’s about 50 minutes to Yanai. From Osaka, take the bullet train (Shinkansen) to Hiroshima—it’s an hour and a half. From Hiroshima, it’s about an hour and a half by local train. From Hakata, take the bullet train to Tokuyama. From Tokuyama, it’s about 40 minutes.

This town has been designated as a Preservation District for Important Groups of Traditional Buildings.

Yanai city official https://www.city-yanai.jp/site/kanko/denkenchiku.html
Yamaguchi prefecture official https://yamaguchi-tourism.jp/spot/detail_15062.html

Now, let’s head to the town with its white-walled streets

Yamaguchi Prefecture is located at the westernmost tip of Honshu. If you’ve traveled here from Tokyo or Osaka, you’ll soon be leaving Honshu behind, with Kyushu just around the corner.
Get off at Yanai Station and walk for a short while, and you’ll come upon a town with a somewhat distinctive atmosphere.

Well, here we are at the entrance to the town of white walls.

If you come here, you’re sure to be dazzled by the brightness of the white walls.

A Town Where Goldfish Welcome You

Are you curious about this goldfish? It’s a traditional folk craft from Yanai called a “goldfish lantern.” It’s said to have been designed long ago, inspired by the “goldfish neputa” from the Neputa Festival in distant Aomori.
https://yanai-kankou.jp/en/souvenir/kingyo-chochin-goldfish-shaped-lanterns/

Kingyo neputa https://www.nebuta.jp/know/goldfish/about.html

The famous Kintaikyo Bridge and the streets of Hagi are right nearby. Why not immerse yourself in the white-walled streets while holding a “goldfish lantern” souvenir in one hand?
The goldfish will always be waiting for you.

Kintaikyou Bridge https://kankou.iwakuni-city.net/itn/
Hagi https://www.hagishi.com/en/




A town that once thrived on cotton and still retains its old-world charm ~Unshu Hirata 雲州平田



Location; 841 Hirata-cho, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture
Access; It takes about 20 minutes by Ichibata Railway from Izumo City Station to Unshu-Hirata. From Izumo Taisha-mae Station, it takes about 35 minutes. From there, it is about a 10-minute walk. The journey from Okayama to Izumo City takes about 3 hours by limited express train.

Official site https://momen-kaidou.jp/en/

Going to Hirata

First of all, let’s take the local railway, the Ichibata Tram, from Izumo City.

The area around the station has a truly quiet and peaceful atmosphere. Until recently, Hirata was a town known only to a select few.

It is only recently that they have finally begun to develop facilities such as tourist information centres and promote the area as a tourist destination. It may hardly be mentioned anywhere else.

Momen Kaido (Cotton Road)

As you cross the bridge, the old townscape comes into view.

The town began to prosper through the cotton trade from around the early 18th century. Partly because it was developed during a period of civil strife, a site surrounded by rivers was chosen.

Hirata dolls are occasionally on display. These are unusual craft items made entirely from tea sets, pottery and Buddhist altarware, which are shaped and held together with wire.




Kurashiki 倉敷~The town of historic warehouses is always a popular tourist destination


Location; Chuo, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture
Access; From Tokyo by Shinkansen: 3 hours and 15 minutes (Okayama Station)
From Osaka by Shinkansen: 45 minutes (Okayama Station)
From Okayama Station by train: 17 minutes (Kurashiki Station)
From Okayama Momotaro Airport by car: Approx. 35 minutes (Kurashiki Station)
From Kurashiki Station on foot: Approx. 15 minutes (Kurashiki Bikan District)

Kurashiki web https://www.kurashiki-tabi.jp/
Okayama web https://www.okayama-kanko.jp/spot/detail_10226.html

In front of Kurashiki Station

A view of the city from the station

Kurashiki is one of the most popular tourist destinations outside of Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara. Takayama is a similar destination, but since Kurashiki is easier to reach, it attracts far more visitors. Given its location less than 20 minutes from Okayama, a major transportation hub, the area around the station is bustling. But just a 15-minute walk from there will take you to the scenic district, where rows of white-walled storehouses stand alongside beautiful willow trees lining the river.

Honcho street

It has been designated as a Preservation District for Important Groups of Traditional Buildings.

Small specialty shops and simple eateries are sure to make you stop in your tracks. However, unless you go early in the morning or at a similar time, you probably won’t be able to avoid the crowds.

But every few moments, as if you’ve encountered an air pocket, a quiet, deserted stillness appears—it comes and goes.

River side

Once you pass through the area with the sea cucumber-patterned walls, you’ll feel the breeze blowing along the river. Perhaps because you’ve just come through those narrow streets, you might suddenly feel as if you’ve been freed from the constraints of everyday life.

If it’s the “magic hour,” the town lighting up just as the name suggests might draw you even further into a fantasy world.

Even though the town simply stands there in silence, before you know it, it slips into people’s memories and begins to tell their stories.




Tracing the Origins of Kagura in the Holy Grounds of Izumo ~2. Akatsuka kagura 赤塚神楽



Date; The Saturday closest to October 25 each year
Location; 1894 Oaza Kitsuki-Nishi, Taisha-cho, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture
Access;
official Instagram https://www.instagram.com/akatsukakagura/reels/
This article is based on 25th October, 2025

Another Kagura Performance Near Izumo Taisha (Grand Shrine)

It’s just a stone’s throw away from the shrine where the Ōdochi Kagura introduced in Section 1 is held. If you turn a wrong corner, there’s a good chance you’ll end up at the other shrine. Although the two are so similar, there are also many differences between them.
It starts at 3:00 p.m. The schedule here runs from daytime, with a break in the middle, until evening.

The shrine grounds are spacious, and the stage isn’t particularly elaborate. There aren’t any special decorations on it.

A distinctive feature of this kagura is the high proportion of young performers. In particular, the first half consists of a series of performances featuring only children.

Although it has a long history, it is said to have been interrupted once by war. Given this background, there is a strong movement to actively encourage local children to become familiar with it and to nurture them as future practitioners. Perhaps because of that, the audience—especially in the first half—consisted mostly of people involved in the production.

Masks used in this kagura are the rugged ones typical of Izumo Kagura. They give a very different impression from the flamboyant Iwami Kagura, even though both are from Shimane Prefecture.

Hino-misaki

“Misaki” means “cape.” Hinomisaki is one of Izumo’s tourist attractions by the sea, famous for its beautiful sunsets. The shrine located here is said to be the one that guards the night, in contrast to Ise Grand Shrine, which guards the day.
A performance unique to the local area, inspired by Hinomisaki. It’s a story of good triumphing over evil, in which the god of Hinomisaki defeats an evil deity attempting to invade the land. It’s easy to follow.
It was a little past 4:00 p.m. It was the perfect setting for Hinomisaki at sunset. From this point on, the kagura performances really began to pick up steam.

More enemies appear, and the action heats up. By this point, the audience has grown considerably.

Intermission

Kojin

“Kojin” is another play with roots in Izumo. The story is said to have actually taken place right here in this very place. Even though it’s just a play, watching it here in this place is deeply moving.
This myth, known as the “Transfer of the Country,” tells the story of how an envoy from Amaterasu arrived and demanded that Ōkuninushi, who ruled this land, cede it to her. It may seem unfair, but history is written by the victors.
The masks look just like those in Kabuki or Peking Opera.

*https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/okuninushi-hnded-over-his-own-country-to-amaterasukuni-yuzuri-%e5%9b%bd%e8%ad%b2%e3%82%8a/

Ōkuninushi is often depicted as the deity known as Daikoku-sama. Daikoku is one of the seven deities who bring happiness to people. However, the two are completely unrelated—they share only the same pronunciation of their kanji characters. Because of this, his son, “Kotoshironushi,” is also depicted in the form of the deity Ebisu. He makes his entrance carrying a sea bream, but—as is typical of Ebisu—he didn’t bring the gift specifically to curry favor with the messenger.
*about 7 of goods bringing fortune to people https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/04/05/seven-deities-of-good-fortune-parade-celebrating-the-new-year-at-the-center-of-tokyo/

Okuninushi and Kotokishiro-nushi agreed, but their other son refused to comply. He challenged them to a contest of strength, but…
Eventually, he was defeated and, for some reason, fled all the way to Suwa (a region in present-day Nagano Prefecture). There is a large shrine here called Suwa Taisha, which consists of four separate shrines; it is a shrine filled with mysteries, and it remains unclear why such a massive shrine came to be built in this location.

Orochi

It was already nearing 8:00 p.m. After a performance by the children, the final act of the evening—and the grandest climax—was about to begin. A large crowd had already gathered. Food stalls selling soba and other items—there are several of them—are seeing a steady stream of customers.

When it comes to slaying the Orochi, Shimane Prefecture comes to mind. It’s truly a local tradition.

It is also a popular production, particularly throughout western Japan.

The scene begins with the parents lamenting in front of their beloved Princess Kushinada. Just then, Susanoo arrives. “Leave it to me,” he says.

Orochi makes an appearance. Here, it’s done entirely in the Iwami Kagura style. Four of them appeared that day.
The story remains the same: they make Orochi drink the poisoned sake they’ve prepared, and once they have drunk, he defeat them.

The performance ended around 9:00 p.m. Even though it was October, the performers were drenched in sweat from their passionate performance. They gave it their all with their youthful energy.

There are few places to stay near Izumo Taisha, and prices are high. You can think of it as being similar to a resort area. The area near Izumo City Station is a popular choice and has plenty of accommodations. Furthermore, since it takes just over an hour to get to Matsue, you might want to consider staying there as well.




Tracing the Origins of Kagura in the Holy Grounds of Izumo ~1. Odochi Kagura 大土地神楽



*Google Maps lists it as “Daitochi,” but the correct name is “Odochi”—it’s a mistake.

Date; One day during the Golden Week period in May: Kagura Dedication Ceremony at Izumo Taisha
Saturdays from late May to early June: Evening Torchlight Dance at Inasa Beach
The Friday and Saturday closest to 25 October
Location; Odochiko shrine 2425 Kizuki-Nishi, Taisha-chō, Izumo City, other

Access; About 1 kilometer from Izumo Taisha-mae Station, a 15-minute walk
To get to Taisha-mae Station, take the Limited Express Yakumo from Okayama to Izumo City Station. From there, take the local line.
There are other overnight trains departing from Tokyo, but they’re as popular as concerts by famous singers, so it’s very difficult to get tickets.

Odochi kagura instagram https://www.instagram.com/odochikagura/

This article is based on 24th October, 2025

Limited express “Yakumo”

Izumo Taisha (grand shrine)

Shimane Prefecture is famous for Iwami Kagura. However, Iwami is in the western part of the prefecture, while in the eastern part—Izumo—there is another style of kagura known as Izumo Kagura. This article introduces the Odochi Kagura, one of the Izumo Kagura traditions.

Many Japanese people dream of visiting Ise and Izumo someday. These are the locations of Ise Grand Shrine and Izumo Grand Shrine, two of Japan’s most iconic shrines, and they are revered as Japan’s most powerful spiritual sites. In particular, Izumo Taisha is renowned as a shrine dedicated to the god of matchmaking, which is why it attracts so many visitors. Izumo is also a region where many ancient mythological tales have been preserved. It is also famous as a place where gods from all over Japan gather once a year. In other words, the land itself is imbued with divinity.

In fact, Izumo is not only the land of mythology, but also the birthplace of kagura.
Although it is said that the origins of Kagura date back to mythological times, the form we see today took shape hundreds of years ago.

The most famous of these is the Sada-shin noh at Sada Shrine, which is said to have been created by incorporating Noh theater techniques learned in Kyoto. Because it was of such high quality, it is said to have influenced many forms of Kagura in the surrounding areas and throughout the Kanto region.

And here is another form of kagura that is considered to be one of the origins of the tradition: the Ōdochi Kagura.

With winter fast approaching, the days are getting shorter. After walking for about 15 minutes through the old town as dusk falls, you’ll come to Ōdochi-ko Shrine. Actually, this Kagura performance is scheduled to start at 6:00 p.m. and end at 2:00 a.m.! (For questions like, “How am I supposed to watch it with so little time?”—I’ll explain that later, so please check that section.)
It’s such a small place that you’d never guess it’s a shrine that passed down the famous Kagura tradition. There is a stage in front of the shrine. As the surroundings grow completely dark, the audience is drawn to this spot, as if they had wandered into another world.

A total of 17 performances were presented that day. The program was particularly ambitious, featuring the revival of the Sarutahiko performance, among other highlights. Looking at the overall flow, the performance begins with ritualistic segments (which are performed without masks), and gradually becomes more theatrical as the children and the masked performers interact.

A play in which the mountain god chases a child and eventually catches him. The background story is that the child is actually a messenger of other gods who has come to summon the mountain god.

This is the story of a general named Sakanoueno Tamuramaro who fought against bandits entrenched in the mountains.
General Tamuramaro was a real historical figure who, acting on the orders of the emperor who established the Heian period (8C~12C), subdued the Tohoku region. He was the first person to be appointed general, and although he was a skilled warrior, he is said to have been deeply compassionate toward his enemies, which has made him very popular.

Sankan

A play based on the legend of Empress Jingū* and her loyal vassal, Takenouchi no Sukune, who conquered the three kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula. One of the most popular performances in this kagura.
*Empress Jingu →Empress Jingu was also a real historical figure. Since she appeared during a time when the line between myth and reality was blurred, little is known about her in detail. However, despite being an empress, there are many stories about her, and her expedition to the Korean Peninsula is one of them. Furthermore, the fact that the Emperor is referred to using the character for “god” makes him a special Emperor, and the use of that same character for her, as Empress, is deeply mysterious.

Just when you thought Empress Jingu was simply standing in the background…

(Empress Jingū) as soon as she saw that the Sukune were at a disadvantage, rushed out herself and defeated all three of them in one fell swoop. Her gesture, as if to say, “How about that?” to the audience, was just like something out of professional wrestling. The audience couldn’t help but get excited.

Kojin

Messengers from Amaterasu came many times, but each time, Okuninushi remained loyal to her. Finally, Amaterasu sent a warrior named Takeminakata to subdue Okuninushi. However, her son refused to accept this and challenged them to battle, only to be defeated and forced to flee. This play is based on that myth.

https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/okuninushi-hnded-over-his-own-country-to-amaterasukuni-yuzuri-%e5%9b%bd%e8%ad%b2%e3%82%8a/

Yachihoko

This story is about the younger days of Okuninushi, who appeared in the previous performance. It tells the tale of how he was bullied by his brothers but eventually defeated his wicked older brothers and built a peaceful country.

Yato

This performance depicts one of the most famous episodes in mythology: Susanoo’s battle against the (Orochi) eight-headed serpent. In a sense, this performance best exemplifies the defining characteristics of this kagura.

To briefly summarize the story: When Susanoo arrives in this land, he notices a parents and daughter crying. The father explains that every year, Orochi comes and they are forced to offer their daughter as a sacrifice. He adds that this year it is the turn of their eighth and final princess. Then Susanoo devises a plan and successfully defeats Orochi—that is the story.

In recent years, in western Japan, the influence of Iwami Kagura—which originates in the western part of Shimane Prefecture—has been significant. In particular, the depiction of Orochi, the giant serpent coiled in a spiral, can be seen widely from Kyushu to Okayama.
However, here, the figure is simply depicted with a human-like body and a tail. This is a form commonly seen in Kagura performances in the Kanto region. Since it was introduced to the Kanto region before the Meiji era, it still retained this simple form at that time. And this kagura, too, continues to preserve its ancient form.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2022/10/05/entertainment-by-the-name-of-iwami-kagura/

But putting that aside, it’s simply a fascinating form of Kagura to watch. The unique movements, the chants, and the lavish costumes reminiscent of Noh—everything is filled with a power that leaves the audience in awe. If you ever get the chance, you definitely won’t regret seeing it live.

The Kagura performance ends at 2:00 a.m. as scheduled. While locals may be fine, what are tourists supposed to do?
1. Of course, there are several places to stay near Izumo Taisha. However, since it’s a tourist destination, prices tend to be high.
2. Option 2: Stay near Izumoshi Station. There are more accommodations near Izumo shi Station. However, it is more than 8 kilometers away from Taisha-mae. Since it’s late at night, there is no public transportation. In such cases, I recommend using a bike-sharing service. You can rent a bike for a low fee, and it’s available even late at night. It’s also convenient because there are cycle stations at both Izumo-shi Station and Taisha-mae Station. The tourist information center at Izumo City Station will explain how to rent one.
For those who feel it’s a waste of money to stay at a hotel late at night, there’s always the option of a 24-hour café near the station. While it’s not as comfortable as a hotel, you can still take a nap in a private booth.

reference https://yuien-sharecycle.jp/en/
Shimane official https://www.kankou-shimane.com/en/
Tourist information center https://izumo-japan-travel.com/travel-tips/visitor-center/




Entertainment by the name of Iwami Kagura

Japan has 47 prefectures, but the most populous is of course the capital, Tokyo. Then what is the least populated? It is Shimane Prefecture. But once you look at the ancient world, it was in a sense the most important region. The oldest historical book, Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters), records a group of mythological worlds set in this region. The Ise Jingu shrine enshrines the ancestral deities of the current imperial family. The Izumo Grand Shrine continues to receive worship comparable to that of the Ise Shrine. Why are there shrines of this size in this region? Why did the Kojiki specially record the mythology of this region? Two thousand years on, the region remains a mystery to us all.

The Izumo Taisha grand shrine https://izumo-kankou.gr.jp/676

In fact, the region has long existed as a separate country from the east and west. The eastern side was called “Izumo 出雲” and the western side “Iwami 石見”. The eastern region (Izumo) is home to Matsue, the prefectural capital, and Izumo Taisha shrine, and has a large population. It is said that the “Sada Shin Noh” was the first kagura to be arranged to the narrative style of today’s kagura.

While the Izumo region has preserved this tradition, the Iwami region has followed a very different path. There are six reasons why Iwami Kagura has become so prosperous.

1 Jadou

Iwami Kagura is synonymous with the story of the extermination of an eight-headed monster called Orochi. Originally, Orochi were performed using masks with 16 eyes. This is because the first Sada Shinno did so. But a craftsman named Kikuichi Ueda had a question. Orochi is the most monstrous of mythology with the eight-headed. Kikuichi thought, “The 16-eyed mask is not a good look. There must be another way to describe it”. He came up with the idea of a jadou 蛇胴 (snake body), an idea based on a lantern. Jadou is a device to create Orochi’s original snake-like appearance. He made of bamboo rings connected with Japanese paper, as we know it today, that bends freely, does not tear, and is lightweight and easy to move around. He devised a new way of performing. This quickly became so popular that it has spread not only to the Iwami region, but now to western Japan in general.

Orochi

2 rhythm

The second is a modification of the rhythm. Originally, there was a form of kagura called Oomoto kagura, which developed from this form. Omoto Kagura had a slow rhythm of 6 choshis 調子(beat), but people changed to a fast rhythm of 8 choshis. This made the entire stage faster.

3 mask

Third, They changed the mask from wood carving to Japanese paper. This Iwami region also inherited traditional paper making. Japanese washi is stronger than ordinary paper. Taking advantage of this feature, they came up with a new method of making masks. This made it possible to produce lightweight, large masks, which were more dynamic.

4 costume

Fourth, there is the flamboyance of the costumes. The costumes, which embody the word “gorgeous” with their abundant use of gold and silver threads and sometimes even glass beads sewn into the fabric, are illuminated by the lighting, inviting the audience into a world of fantasy. All the work is done by hand, and it takes several months to half a year to complete. Sometimes it amounts to over a million.

Fifth, there is a revision of the script. Originally in the Edo period (the age of the samurai), kagura was performed by a specialized priesthood. However, the people who overthrew the Shogun and created the new Meiji era forbade the Shinto priests to perform kagura in order to promote modernization. They ordered that the priests should perform only Shinto rituals. Therefore, the people in the private sector took over it freely. As a result, it became much more secularized. Concerned about this, the people revised the script. They tried to correct the abusive language, to make it more dignified, and to convey their intentions more clearly. The scripts from this time are still in use today, and they add dignity to the kagura.

And last but not least is the use of fireworks. Fireworks launchers were attached to the lightened surface. This allowed the villains to breathe fire. It was especially spectacular to see Orochi, whose numbers had increased, all breathing fire together. In this way, kagura has become more entertaining over time.

The kagura stage direction further increased the entertainment factor by trying to create smoke.

As a result, more than 100 kagura troupes are active in this modestly populated area, and they perform throughout the year. Not only that, but usually the adults take the children, but here the children want to go and take the adults out. Thus, the audience is all ages and both men and women. The audience supports their favorite group and sometimes throws themselves into the performance. It is common in the local community for children to recite the difficult scripts and imitate the kagura effortlessly. The attractiveness of Iwami Kagura is, above all, its easy-to-understand storyline. Basically, it is a story of good and evil, so even if you do not understand the language well, you can fully understand the content. As can be inferred from the large masks and flashy costumes, there is almost no detailed staging, as is the case with Noh, another traditional art form. It is more like kabuki with mask.

representative program

After all, it is all about “exterminating Orochi. It could be said that Orochi is the equal of Iwami Kagura, which has evolved dramatically since the invention of Jadou. The story is a famous mythological anecdote. One day, a fierce god named Susanoo was walking through the area. He was so violent that he was banished from the heavenly realm. Then he met an old couple in tears. When Susanoo asked them what was going on, they said, ” The old man told Susano’o that there was a monster with eight heads and eight tails called “Yamata-no-orochi” in the area, and that every year it demanded sacrifices. He told Susanoo that they had eight daughters, and that they would have to sacrifice every year they were devoured by Orochi, and that this time the last daughter would be sacrificed.  Hearing this, Susanoo offered to exterminate the orochi if he would give the girl to me as my wife. Susanoo then gave Orochi sake to drink, and when it was drunk, he attacked it and successfully vanquished it.
The jadou, which consists of 100 bamboo skeletons with a length of 40 centimeters and a length of about 17 meters, is operated by one person. The key to his skill is how he manages to keep people out of sight at this time. As the number of jadous has increased, the way of displaying them vertically and horizontally has evolved, and more and more efforts are being made every day to make them more appealing to the audience.

Jinnrin 塵輪

Iwami Kagura is basically a tale of good and evil. The most representative of these is Jinrinrin. Two demons come from a foreign country to overrun Japan. They spread evil in Japan, spread plague, and boast that they will destroy the country. Emperor Chuai and his followers rise up to meet this crisis. The stage is set for a confrontation between two gods and two demons, which makes the story even more exciting. It is a ridiculous story, but there is not much historical fact involved. There is no such story left as a myth. To begin with, history books record Emperor Chuai as the 14th emperor, but it is not clear what he actually did. Some people suggested that the dynasty may have changed at this point, since the later people used the character for “god” for his wife and children. Some say that this is the reason why the dynasty changed here. In other words, it is a completely invented story. There is also this one.

Yorimasa 頼政

The main character is a real-life military commander from the 12th century during the Heian period, who had a legend of exterminating Nue.
Night after night after night, a suspicious smoke rises in the capital. Then the emperor always complains of suffering. No one could discover the cause of this. The emperor’s close advisors then selected Minamoto no Yorimasa as the person to do the work. The story is that Yorimasa successfully exterminated the yokai and saved the emperor. In the middle of the story, there is a scene in which the yokai wrestle with each other. There was a fun scene where children and others went up on the stage and wrestled with them, which is a fun scene and adds a touch of humor to the monotonous flow of the program.

The core city of Iwami region is Hamada 浜田 City. It is also the most active place for Iwami Kagura. When you get off the train with Iwami Kagura printed on it, you are already in a kagura world from the ticket gate. As you exit the ticket gate, a large kagura tower stands in front of the station. Every hour on the hour, a kagura puppet appears and shows a kagura scene. The main street is lined with kagura signboards, and statues of kagura characters line the street. There is also a workshop for making kagura costumes and masks at a leisure facility a short distance away.

Where to watch it?

Basically, if you go to this region, you can watch it anywhere and anytime, especially on weekends. There are two main types: festivals at shrines and regular performances. Shrines are basically free of charge, while regular performances are often charged. In addition, there are performances in major cities such as Tokyo and Osaka. There is also a joint performance competition several times a year where kagura groups compete their skills. There are too many to list here, so if you are interested, I will provide links so you can watch them there. Incidentally, when the author of this article went to cover the festival, it was held at a shrine near Masuda City from 8 pm to 6 am the next morning. The next day, I had the experience of seeing a performance at a roadside station in the town of Tsuwano, which is also a tourist spot, during the daytime, and then a festival at another shrine at night from 7:00 p.m. to past 9:00 a.m. All of these events are free of charge.

Key words when viewing the calendar

Unfortunately, the calendar is mostly in Japanese, so the following is a list of Japanese and English translations to keep in mind. Please refer to these for confirmation.
有料 fee 無料 Free of charge 公演 Events & Performances 定期公演 Regular Show 祭り(祭) Festival 神社 Shrine
大会(競演大会) Tournaments (competitive tournaments)
予約 Reservations 電話 phone 1月、2月 ~月(以下同様表記)Jan, Feb ~ (same below) ~日 (1日)~Day ( Day 1 )
日曜日(日)Sunday (Sun.) 月曜日(月) Monday (Mon)  毎 every →毎月 every month 毎土曜日 every Saturday

https://www.all-iwami.com/kagura/schedule/

cf. https://www.kankou-shimane.com/en/highlights/9637
https://www.all-iwami.com/en/kagura/wk/

Another trip to the surrounding area

If you want a taste of rural Japan, Shimane Prefecture is exactly what you are looking for. The Iwami region has it all: old townscapes, world heritage sites, and hot springs. The neighboring Izumo region has castles and some of the largest shrines in Japan.

Tsuwano 津和野 town

Omori 大森 town and Iwami ginzan 石見銀山
https://www.kankou-shimane.com/pickup/3267.html

Matue 松江 castle

Access

From the major cities of Tokyo and Osaka, there are various options: airplanes, trains (Shinkansen, sleeper express), and buses. However, the Shinkansen runs south from Okayama, so it is necessary to transfer to a local express train. Also, the number of trains in Okayama is limited and access to the area is inconvenient in some places, so please do your research in advance.




Tsuwano town ~津和野町



Location; Tsuwano Town, kanoashi District, Shimane Prefecture

Access: From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen to Shin-Yamaguchi (about 4 hours) and then the limited express to Tsuwano (about 1 hour).
   Or, if you fly, you can go from Haneda to Iwami Airport. From there, take a bus to Masuda. (about 10 minutes), and then take a local train to Tsuwano (about 40 minutes).
Streets such as Tonomachi-dori and Honmachi-dori have been designated as Important Preservation Districts for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

A small castle town in the mountains of western Shimane Prefecture. It is especially famous for its Tono-machi Street, which is lined with the ruins of former feudal lords’ residences, canals, and white walls. The town is surrounded by mountains, and a river flows through the town a short distance away, spreading greenery. However, access to the area is not very good. Along with the neighboring city of Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture, the town has been featured in a women’s magazine as Hagi-Tsuwano, and is especially popular among female visitors. It is also known for its heron dance in the summer.→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/08/30/sagimai-everything-is-worth-a-photo-chance/
There is also a memorial hall for the picture books of Anno Mitsumasa 安野光雅, who won the International Andersen Prize. It is also an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.

cf. →https://www15.j-server.com/LUCTWNT/ns/tl.cgi/https://www.town.tsuwano.lg.jp/www/genre/1000000000113/index.html?SLANG=ja&TLANG=en&XMODE=0&XPARAM=q,&XCHARSET=UTF-8&XPORG=,&XJSID=0
→https://www.kankou-shimane.com/en/destinations/?post_type=destinations&destination_city%5B%5D=iwamiarea&s=&x=35&y=25




Tomonoura 鞆の浦



Address: Tomo, Tomocho, Fukuyama city, Hiroshima prefecture
Access: From the No. 5 bus stop at the south exit of Fukuyama Station, take the bus bound for “Tomo” or “Tomonoura” (about 30 minutes). 550 yen (as of 2022)
Fukuyama is about 1 hour from Osaka and about 30 minutes from Hiroshima by Shinkansen.

You can also watch it on you tube.→
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0o-4Ek6stw

In the video we will guide you.

It seems that Tomonoura has been used as a port since quite ancient times, and there are records of its use as a port from around the 12th century.

from 「鞆 町並みの魅力」福山教育委員会

Same to the left

The ocean currents in this area flow in from the east and west at high tide and collide just in the vicinity of Tomonoura. On the other hand, when the tide is low, the currents divide into east and west from here. In the old days, people used to sail along the coast, so waiting for the tide was important. The most suitable port for this was Tomonoura.
The people of the time period gradually and gradually built up the harbor through land reclamation and other means, and it took on its present form.

You can look inside an old merchant house and get a glimpse of how people lived in those days. It is said that people in the construction industry today sigh in awe because they can see beams cut out of a single tree, something that is impossible to find nowadays.

When you are surrounded by so many natural townscapes, you feel like this is normal. However, this is a historical landscape that miraculously remains because it was left behind in the development race. It is easy to forget that townscapes like this used to exist in Tokyo and Osaka as a matter of course.

A ferry connects the town with Onomichi 尾道, one of the most popular towns in Hiroshima Prefecture along with Tomonoura and other towns. It is nice to see the peaceful scenery of the Seto Inland Sea from the sea. It is also fun to compare it with the port city of Onomichi.

cf. https://www.city.fukuyama.hiroshima.jp/soshiki/kanko/85749.html
https://youtu.be/K0o-4Ek6stw

the centuriesTomonoura official https://visittomonoura.com/?lang=en

Japan heritage official https://www.japan.travel/japan-heritage/popular/old-port-tomonoura-hiroshima-setonaikai-fukuyama




Fukuyama castle

Access: Get off JR Fukuyama Station north exit, 5 minutes on foot. It takes about one and a half hours from Osaka by Shinkansen. About 30 minutes from Hiroshima.

You can also watch the following you tube video→https://youtu.be/K0o-4Ek6stw

History 1

Fukuyama 福山 is located in the eastern part of Hiroshima Prefecture. In the latter half of the 15th century, a major war broke out in Kyoto, which rapidly weakened the power of the Ashikaga 足利 clan and the shogunate, which had previously reigned as shoguns, and ushered in an era of warring factions.
The small Mori 毛利 clan defeated the giant Ouchi 大内 clan in the west, and also defeated the Amago 尼子 clan in the east, bringing the Chugoku region under their control.

Statue of the first lord of the domain

History 2

In 1600, the armies of the East and West clashed head-on at a place called Sekigahara 関ヶ原 in present-day Gifu Prefecture. The Tokugawa 徳川 clan, which led the eastern army, won the war. The Mori 毛利 clan, which was the general of the western army, lost most of its territory and was reduced to owning only a part of Hiroshima Prefecture. The Tokugawa Shogunate sent a cousin of the feudal lord to Fukuyama. Thereafter, three feudal lords took turns to rule the area.
In the 1870s, the forces that crowned the emperor with the goal of overthrowing the shogunate defeated the Tokugawa clan and ushered in a new era. The people who played a central role in this were the former Mori clan. The new government tore down many of the buildings of Fukuyama castle. The World War II destroyed many of the buildings, and World War II air raids burned down the few remaining structures. Therefore, what we see today is a faithful reconstruction of the original in 1966.

The station is in front of the castle.

Located right in front of Fukuyama Station on the Shinkansen, you can walk down the station to a park with a castle right outside. The castle tower (the main building) can be entered if you pay the admission fee. The location is slightly elevated, so you can enjoy a panoramic view of the town of Fukuyama.

cf. https://translation2.j-server.com/LUCFKYMC/ns/tl.cgi/https://www.city.fukuyama.hiroshima.jp/site/fukuyamajo/?SLANG=ja&TLANG=en&XMODE=0&XCHARSET=utf-8&XJSID=0