Access: From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen to Shin-Yamaguchi (about 4 hours) and then the limited express to Tsuwano (about 1 hour). Or, if you fly, you can go from Haneda to Iwami Airport. From there, take a bus to Masuda. (about 10 minutes), and then take a local train to Tsuwano (about 40 minutes).
A small castle town in the mountains of western Shimane Prefecture. It is especially famous for its Tono-machi Street, which is lined with the ruins of former feudal lords’ residences, canals, and white walls. The town is surrounded by mountains, and a river flows through the town a short distance away, spreading greenery. However, access to the area is not very good. Along with the neighboring city of Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture, the town has been featured in a women’s magazine as Hagi-Tsuwano, and is especially popular among female visitors. It is also known for its heron dance in the summer.→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/08/30/sagimai-everything-is-worth-a-photo-chance/ There is also a memorial hall for the picture books of Anno Mitsumasa 安野光雅, who won the International Andersen Prize. It is also an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings.
Address: Tomo, Tomocho, Fukuyama city, Hiroshima prefecture Access: From the No. 5 bus stop at the south exit of Fukuyama Station, take the bus bound for “Tomo” or “Tomonoura” (about 30 minutes). 550 yen (as of 2022) Fukuyama is about 1 hour from Osaka and about 30 minutes from Hiroshima by Shinkansen.
It seems that Tomonoura has been used as a port since quite ancient times, and there are records of its use as a port from around the 12th century.
from 「鞆 町並みの魅力」福山教育委員会
Same to the left
The ocean currents in this area flow in from the east and west at high tide and collide just in the vicinity of Tomonoura. On the other hand, when the tide is low, the currents divide into east and west from here. In the old days, people used to sail along the coast, so waiting for the tide was important. The most suitable port for this was Tomonoura. The people of the time period gradually and gradually built up the harbor through land reclamation and other means, and it took on its present form.
You can look inside an old merchant house and get a glimpse of how people lived in those days. It is said that people in the construction industry today sigh in awe because they can see beams cut out of a single tree, something that is impossible to find nowadays.
When you are surrounded by so many natural townscapes, you feel like this is normal. However, this is a historical landscape that miraculously remains because it was left behind in the development race. It is easy to forget that townscapes like this used to exist in Tokyo and Osaka as a matter of course.
A ferry connects the town with Onomichi 尾道, one of the most popular towns in Hiroshima Prefecture along with Tomonoura and other towns. It is nice to see the peaceful scenery of the Seto Inland Sea from the sea. It is also fun to compare it with the port city of Onomichi.
Access: Get off JR Fukuyama Station north exit, 5 minutes on foot. It takes about one and a half hours from Osaka by Shinkansen. About 30 minutes from Hiroshima.
Fukuyama 福山 is located in the eastern part of Hiroshima Prefecture. In the latter half of the 15th century, a major war broke out in Kyoto, which rapidly weakened the power of the Ashikaga 足利 clan and the shogunate, which had previously reigned as shoguns, and ushered in an era of warring factions. The small Mori 毛利 clan defeated the giant Ouchi 大内 clan in the west, and also defeated the Amago 尼子 clan in the east, bringing the Chugoku region under their control.
Statue of the first lord of the domain
History 2
In 1600, the armies of the East and West clashed head-on at a place called Sekigahara 関ヶ原 in present-day Gifu Prefecture. The Tokugawa 徳川 clan, which led the eastern army, won the war. The Mori 毛利 clan, which was the general of the western army, lost most of its territory and was reduced to owning only a part of Hiroshima Prefecture. The Tokugawa Shogunate sent a cousin of the feudal lord to Fukuyama. Thereafter, three feudal lords took turns to rule the area. In the 1870s, the forces that crowned the emperor with the goal of overthrowing the shogunate defeated the Tokugawa clan and ushered in a new era. The people who played a central role in this were the former Mori clan. The new government tore down many of the buildings of Fukuyama castle. The World War II destroyed many of the buildings, and World War II air raids burned down the few remaining structures. Therefore, what we see today is a faithful reconstruction of the original in 1966.
The station is in front of the castle.
Located right in front of Fukuyama Station on the Shinkansen, you can walk down the station to a park with a castle right outside. The castle tower (the main building) can be entered if you pay the admission fee. The location is slightly elevated, so you can enjoy a panoramic view of the town of Fukuyama.
The battle begins with a song with a strange verse. The young people carrying the mikoshi (portable shrine), which is made of three rice bales stacked in a pyramid shape, are already in a state of excitement. On the other hand, “they” are already standing by in front of the main shrine. The audience could see that they were even more excited than the mikoshi. The masked ogres hold bamboo sticks wrapped in long cylindrical cloth. Their bare chest plates are changing to blood red. When the song ended, the mikoshi run up to the main shrine with great vigor amidst loud cheers. In an attempt to stop them, “they” violently hit the bales with bamboo sticks. A battle of wills. The excitement of the large crowd of spectators reaches a climax. Autumn had arrived in the town of Kure.
Date: The second Sunday in October Location: 1 Chome-9-36 Shimizu, Kure, Hiroshima Access: It takes about one hour from Hiroshima Station to Kure. It is a 15-minute walk from the station.
Their name is “Yabu”
Their name is “Yabu”. Nobody knows exactly what a “yabu” is. Yabu always appear at festivals in Kure. However, no one knows when they first appeared or why they appear. Their presence is overwhelming. Once you see them, you can’t forget them: the terrifying masks, the straw rising up on their backs like flames or little dolls, and the long bamboo sticks in their hands. Throughout the festival, they roam the grounds of the shrine and the town in all directions. And they intimidate people with bamboo sticks in their hands. They behave as kings and messengers of the deity during the festival. What is “Yabu”? This report followed them for a day.
Kameyama Shrine–this is the headquarters of all the yabus. To be precise, the Kameyama Shrine is the headquarters of all the shrines in Kure City. Yabu first appears at the shrine at about eight in the morning. I had heard that, so I came to Hiroshima the day before to prepare for the appearance. In fact, they had appeared in town the night before. And they had been chasing children around and running amok. I didn’t find out about it until much later. This was unfortunate. At any rate, it was morning in the city of Kure. I headed for the shrine in the still sparsely populated streets. The road to the shrine is slightly uphill. There were already a lot of stalls waiting to open. After climbing up the last set of stairs, you will see the main shrine beyond the spacious precincts. It seemed that the yabus had not yet appeared. I feel fresh in the morning air when I went out to the town. Yabus are famous in Kure, and there are some ardent fans. There are many people who have covered all the yabus that appear in the festivals of shrines in Kure City. Some people have done a lot of different research. They collect old photos and ask around about the origin. Still, they don’t seem to know for sure how long it has existed. There is no mention of yabu in the textbooks for the priesthood. Yabu is like the guardian deity of the shrine. That’s where the discussion eventually settles. Nothing more, nothing less.
Yabu’s appearance was quiet. There was no sound. He just appeared with the people involved, visited the shrine, and then took a commemorative photo. There is a pecking order in the line up of appearance. The leader is number 1. It seems to change from year to year, but at this time, there were nine yabus. At this time, there were nine yabus, plus a tengu. The no.1 yabu is in the center, and the rest are lined up in order from left to right. The order of the yabus seems to be quite strict. Eventually, the Yabus started to descend the hill in a quiet line. They took a short break until noon at the building in front of the intersection.
Kure, located in the west of Hiroshima, was a former naval base. The topography of the city is such that it faces the coast, with mountains looming in the background. Even today, there are many facilities related to the Self-Defense Forces. It was also the home port of the Battleship Yamato (which was built and sunk during World War II, the already outdated symbol of big-ship gunnery), a ship that every Japanese person knows. For this reason, there is a museum commemorating Yamato and a Self-Defense Force museum lining the harbor. More to the point, it is also the setting for a blockbuster movie about a yakuza war. This is the image that Japanese people have of Kure.
Around noon, the Yabus would finally start. The Yabus gather in front of the building in front of the intersection, and people gather to see them. You can see many people holding their children in their arms. The gathering of the crowd makes the festival atmosphere all the more exciting. When the time came, they all started proceeding towards the shrine at once. With all the spectators and people involved in the event in tow. I hurried to the shrine ahead of the others. After all, this festival attracts so many spectators that it is also known as a people-watching festival. The area in front of the shrine, the main venue, was overflowing with people. I managed to get a spot in the front and waited for the Yabus to arrive. I’m sure the Yabus were showing off very Yabu-like on the way, but I gave up looking there. After all, I want to see the main event.
Before the fight~ drumming
This festival is also known as the “People’s Festival. As it was, many people were waiting closely in front of the main shrine.
Yabu arrives. The central performing area was officially roped off to hold back the crowd of pushers and shakers. They go around saying, “Please don’t push”. Yabu is different. They shout and violently slam their bamboo sticks into the ground. “Don’t come out!” They tend to be intimidating. The children begin to cry. Two drums are brought in and Yabus beat on them. The festival has begun. After the drums are beaten for a while, the people involved clean up the area. Then they set up the drums again. This time there is only one. There is only one person who can beat it. The first yabu. The black-faced, sturdy-looking yabu beats the drum. In front of him, a strange creature appears. A lion. The lion is lying on the ground, as if asleep.
Before the fight~ Who’s at the top?
Yabu beats his drum as if to provoke. Eventually, the lion rises and confronts Yabu. The sound of the flute flowed heavily and monotonously. It was as if a sacred air had been poured into the room. Yabu beat the drum slowly. It was a heavy bass sound that seemed to resonate in the pit of everyone’s stomach. The lion quietly raises his body. The sound of the flute becomes a little lighter. It plays a melody that seems to be angry at something fun. The yabu drums also lightened up to the melody, as if they had changed from four beats to eight. The lion raises its body and undulates violently. The rhythm of the drums becomes even faster. Eventually, the people move the drums aside.
Yabu replaced the bachi drum sticks with a long bamboo stick and swung it down to the ground. The dry sound of the bamboo bursting echoes through the air. The rhythm became even faster, and the lions went into a frenzy. Finally, the two clashed head-on as if to show off their respective powers. It is said that this is the final battle to determine which is the more worthy of being the guardian of the gods, the yabu or the lion.
Yabu defeated the lion and successfully won the position of divine protector. As if to show off their power, they held up bamboo sticks high in their hands and somehow began to run vigorously around the main shrine. Before long, not only the yabus, but also a group of musicians start running. During this time, Hyottoko came out and danced in front of the spectators. After running three laps, Yabu finally settled down in front of the shrine. The young people carried Tombo mikoshi (portable shrine) , and everything was ready. Already a small skirmish broke out between the two, and shouts of anger flew around. The Tombo song begins.As soon as the song ends, the tonbo rushes toward the shrine with great force. Yabu tries to stop it by sticking a bamboo stick into the bale. Finally, the long battle began.
Tonbo is pushed back. Still excited, the Tonbo and the yabu continue their skirmish. The Tonbo lunges again. Sometimes the Tonbo pushes out to the top of the shrine steps. Sometimes the Yabu pushes back at once in front. This battle is repeated over and over again, never ending. For more information on this battle, please watch the video. The battle lasts for about half an hour. At the end of the battle, which had been going on without end, the Tonbo pushed the boulders away and they disappeared into the main shrine. This is how the people dedicate the harvested rice to the shrine. In fact, the Yabu does not interfere with the Tonbo’s dedication of the rice bales. They are just checking to see if the dragonflies are offering strange rice.
It took a while for the waiting time to become like a photography session with Yabu. Parents taking care of their children, girls lining up to take pictures with them. This continued even after they left the shrine and started down the hill. With the enthusiasm still intact, people continued on to the town.
The little ones still cry a lot, but as they get a little older, this changes. When they get older, they will take pride in not being afraid of the yabu, and the yabu will become a hero.
The group surrounded the yabu, and the portable shrines and the musical performers went out into the town as a group. The mikoshi is carried by women here. In recent years, people of the town alone has not been able to secure enough women to carry the mikoshi, so they have asked women from nearby universities to come and carry the mikoshi.
In the center of town, a circle of people had already formed. Since this was an annual event, people knew the place and the event all too well. Even so, they felt compelled to gather together when they heard that Yabu was coming and that there would be a festival. On this day, there is only one festival at Kameyama Shrine, but depending on the day, there may be festivals at three or four different shrines. Each yabu runs rampant amid our town. This is how the people of Kure have enjoyed the Yabu and the festival, and will continue to do so in the future.
The festival in Kure has just begun. Festivals will be held at various shrines over the next month or so. Now I want you to see it for yourself.
That’s entertainment~ the report of Iwami kagura
Date: Usually on Saturday night of first week of August Location: Ebisu Shrine, Furuichiba 古市場, Misumi-cho 三隅町, Hamada 浜田 City, Shimane Prefecture Access: About 3 km from Miho Misumi 三保三隅 Station. If you walk, it takes about 30 minutes. Cabs are available in front of the station. It takes about three hours from Matsue 松江 to Miho Misumi by local train Kagura troupe: Matsubara Shachu 松原社中
Have you yet to see an Iwami Kagura show?
Amplified loud music with speakers. The person in charge of taiko drumming is loudly stirring up the mood. His voice deafens people with a microphone. In the center of the stage, dancers in gorgeous costumes decorated with gold and silver threads performed at a dizzying pace. And large masks glare at the people. Smoke on the stage. And a fire-breathing monster. Heroes fighting with swords. It is rare in Japan to see an art form that excites people so much. These are not exaggerations in the slightest. In the Iwami region of Shimane Prefecture, there is a traditional art form that still excites people. In this article, I would like to introduce the reality of this art form.
Shimane prefecture
The most sparsely populated region in Japan. This is the region called San’in. It consists of Shimane and Tottori prefectures. It is also the only region in Japan that is not served by the Shinkansen bullet train. There is not even a plan. Shimane Prefecture, in particular, has a population of 700,000, which is less than the size of a single ward in Tokyo. The results of the prefecture’s own image survey are as follows. “Depopulated and desolate” accounted for 68 2% of the score. “It’s dark and lacking in vitality,” scored 26 7%. On the other hand, 45% of the respondents said that “the scenery is beautiful and tranquil. In a word, it has a gloomy image with a small population, but it is rich in nature. Taking advantage of this, the prefecture commissioned a cartoonist from the prefecture to create a calendar of self-deprecating slogans for the prefecture. It attracted a lot of attention and sold very well. In it, there is a sentence that reads. “The population of humans is 700,000 and population of deities is 8 million,” which needs some explanation. Shimane Prefecture is home to Izumo Taisha (grand shrine), one of the most famous shrines in Japan. It is said that deities from all over the country gather here once a year. This is why the old way of referring to October is “the month when deities are present”, while in other prefectures they refer to it as “the month when deities are absent”. And in Japan, there are about 8 million deities.
Shimane prefecture has a small population but a vast area (it takes about four hours to go from one end of the prefecture to the other by train), so in the olden days, the eastern part of the prefecture was called “Izumo” and the western part “Iwami. The Izumo Taisha Shrine, a prominent tourist attraction, and Matsue, the prefectural government, are located in the “Izumo region” to the east. As a result, the distribution of the species tends to stay in the Izumo region. In other words, it is no exaggeration to say that the Iwami region is the least populated place in Japan. However, there is actually the hottest Kagura in Japan here. Compared to its small population, there are more than 100 kagura groups, and they are always active. As proof of this, people upload countless videos of Kagura on Youtube, and even DVDs of Kagura are available for sale. This is unthinkable in other regions. Even if you hold a Kagura performance in Tokyo, only a dozen or so people gather at most. It is not unusual to have only two or three people at the worst. What is this all about? From the video, it looks incredibly interesting. I’ll have to give this a try. So this time, I would like to send you a report on how I thoroughly enjoyed this Iwami Kagura.
There are several routes to the Iwami region. The most common is to take the Shinkansen to Okayama, Hiroshima, and Yamaguchi, the southern route, and then take a local train to the north (Shimane Prefecture side). Shimane Prefecture is long from east to west, so the route varies depending on where you want to go. Alternatively, you can take a sleeper train to the Izumo area. Regardless of the route you take, it will take about 6-7 hours from Tokyo. So, I (the author of this report) decided to take the local train. In the summer, JR sells a ticket that allows you to get on and off the train freely with just one ticket, as long as you are on a local line. To coincide with this, there is a night train service from Tokyo to Osaka. If you take this train, you will arrive at Kyoto around 7:00 in the morning. This time, we were going to Masuda, the western end of Shimane Prefecture, so I would have to take the local train from there. I was scheduled to arrive at around 8:00 in the evening. At this time, we decided to spend the night a little further ahead and head for Masuda the next day.
Heading into the world of Iwami Kagura
This time, I will introduce an overnight festival held a short distance from Masuda. It’s called the Kominato 古湊 Summer Festival. I waited at Matsue Station around noon, and a train came right away. Iwami Kagura wrapping train. Two cars. From here, I headed west for about four hours. I arrived at my destination, Masuda, a little after five in the evening. Masuda is the hometown of the famous painter “Sesshu 雪舟”, an artist who nobody in Japan knows, so there were banners saying so. However, If you have just landed at Hamada Station, the center of the Iwami region, you could immerse yourself more in the world of Iwami Kagura. Iwami Kagura already fills the entire station and town.
Hamada stationticket gate
ticket window
a frog and a vending machine
On the road
There is a book in which the author, like me, visited Iwami Kagura and wrote about his surprise. The description begins with a visit to see the New Year’s Eve kagura. He says “I wondered if there was really such a thing as going to see a kagura performance on the most emotional night of the year”. TV programs are also putting a lot of effort into this. Not so much anymore, but there used to be a singing program with a viewership rating of over 80%. There are also preparations to welcome the New Year. They may even choose to take their friends to watch the New Year’s Eve events. And yet, it’s kagura! The author writes “The old man said, ‘My grandchildren bring me here.’ It’s not the parents or grandparents who are making them watch traditional arts. It is the children who pull the parents in. How is that possible? I wondered”. The author of this website report had the same question. I wondered if people would willingly go to see such an old-fashioned art form as Kagura, no matter how popular it was. Young people, too.
Kagura starts around eight o’clock in the evening. I left the hotel hoping to make it in time. There is only one train an hour in this area. There was a little trouble here. It seems that I mistook the weekday and holiday timetables, and when I arrived at the station, I was already just in time. A station attendant told me this. “There was already a train on the other side of the station. Please hurry up.” I hurried to the other side of the platform. The driver was standing at the front of the car. He seemed to have been waiting for me. By the way, I saw a station attendant at the ticket gate making some kind of phone call. This is completely unthinkable in the city. I even felt as if eight million deities were guiding me. It was dark in front of the destination station, unlike in the city. There were two cabs parked in front of the station. I had brought my bicycle with me at the time, so I took it. The 20-minute ride was dark. I wondered if they were really doing it. These questions kept popping into my head. Finally, I found a light. It was on! That was my honest first impression.
Kagura~ prologue
The time was 8:30 in the evening. The first performance had begun on the stage. The stage was a flat roof. (Although I found out it in the morning) the roof was made of red-colored Sekishu 石州 tiles (Sekishu means Iwami region), which are unique to this region. The lighting was simple, just a few bare bulbs hanging from the roof. There were also a number of paper decorations hanging from the ceiling. This is a common sight in authentic Kagura. They are called “Gohei,” which means “the papers which deities dwell” in Japanese. The light from the bulbs made them shine brightly, giving them a more luxurious impression than I had imagined. In front of the building (Kaguraden) is a large area with a small harbor on the other side and the ocean nearby. There were already people in front of the building on their knees on sheets spread out. Behind them are people with small chairs that look like director’s chairs. At the very back are six or seven people with tripods. Perhaps it was because of the early hour, but at this point it was not yet full. But as the performance progressed, more and more people came. The first dance is called “Kamimukae (invoke deities)”. The first thing to do is to let the deities come down to this place. As a substitute for deities, countless ornaments are hung from the ceiling. Although it was a ritualistic dance to welcome the deities, it was not a leisurely one. It is a dance that involves intense rotation. A single male dancer with a gohei followed. Another dance by four men followed. The meaning of this dance is that the deities of the four directions, east, west, north and south, will bring peace to the earth. At the beginning, a woman’s voice gave us an explanation.
The Beginning of Entertainment “Hachiman”八幡
When they were done, it was already 9:30 pm. The number of spectators had increased considerably. The next performance was “Hachiman“. This is where the real entertainment with masks begins. The locals knew exactly what they were doing, and by this time the square was almost full. Here’s a brief look at Iwami Kagura’s specially based battles with gods, heroes and demons. Most of them are simply good and evil. The demons are just like demons, and they keep their evilness. So basically, if you watch it and you don’t know the characters, you won’t feel much discomfort. The Hachiman in the title refers to the Hachiman deity, which is said to be the second most worshipped shrine in Japan after Inari. The most famous shrine dedicated to Hachiman is Usa Hachiman Shrine in Kyushu. In ancient times, around the eighth century, the oracle of Usa Hachiman thwarted the ambition of someone who wanted to usurp the emperor’s throne. Since the Middle Ages, the shrine has attracted the faith of samurai warriors and spread throughout the country.
The first part of the ceremony begins with the appearance of the Hachiman deity, who makes a speech (self-introduction). He is dressed in a flamboyant costume, just like the rumors. The masks are also large and powerful. The dance was graceful at first, and then became faster and faster. Just as they were finishing up, a mysterious smoke billowed out from the wing of the stage. This is another characteristic of Iwami Kagura, where a smoke screen always appears when the bad guys come out. When the smoke screen appears, you can be sure that this is the signal for the appearance of the bad guys. The lighting also changes to a slightly dark and suspicious color. And this time, from the beginning to the spark. This is also unique to Iwami Kagura, and they use fire without hesitation even though they are in a shrine. Fireworks are placed in the mouths of the masks, and the performers manipulate them. Of course, the fireworks are designed not to catch fire.
Hachiman casually withdrew from the stage once, and the demon king gave his speech. Here, he said, “I’m Dai rokuten Mao 第六天魔王 ( Demon King of the Final heaven of six desires)”. In Buddhism, there are six worlds of desire. In the sixth world of desire, which is the closest to the human world, the “Sixth Heavenly Demon King” presides over it. However, there is no need to know such a name at all. You just need to be able to recognize that he is a demon king who hinders the peace of people. He is simply a villain. And then, he says things that are typical of a villain in a dignified manner.
Hachiman pointed his bow and arrow at him and shouted. “Get out of here right now, and get out of this country.” Of course, the demon king would not back down with such threats and intimidation. Rather, it shows a power that seems to overwhelm Hachiman. If the villain is not strong, the main character will not be able to stand out. This kagura knows the basics of entertainment.
And finally, the villain falls. The demon king falls down with a cry of agony. But then…. From here, he comes back to life again. This is one of the characteristics of Iwami Kagura. The demon king is not so easily defeated. He’s a villain, but he has an admirable spirit. From there, the battle continues even more fiercely. There are many turns in the dance. They move their positions, turning around and around each other. It’s like a figure skater. I was amazed at how he was able to keep his eyes on the ground. The sense of speed. In addition, the taiko drummers were shouting “Eisa, Eisa” to the crowd. He was almost shouting himself hoarse and beating the drum as if he wanted to burst it. Kagura is originally based on the Omoto 大元 Kagura. This Omoto Kagura is based on a slow musical style called six tones. However, when it became Iwami Kagura, the rhythm changed to a faster rhythm called eight tones. This aroused the excitement of the audience more and more. All of this was amplified by the huge speakers set up in the back. The volume was so loud that it almost damaged my ears. By this time, the venue was pretty full. It’s a quiet fishing village where you can only hear frogs. It would be the same whether they were at home or at the venue if the sound echoed at such a loud volume. In other words, no one would complain about playing Kagura at such a high volume. This is proof that kagura has permeated this area.
The Hachiman actor withdraws once, takes off his mask, and performs a dance as a final greeting. The villain does not take off the mask. This also seemed to be an expected way to end. It took about 30 minutes. It was still past ten o’clock in the evening.
Jimmu 神武
The next performance was called ” Jinmu”. This is based on a story in the oldest official Japanese history book. Jimmu is the name of the first emperor of Japan. He was born as the son of a god, but this is where the history book enters the world of man. He was in Kyushu for a long time, but one day he decided to go eastward. His destination was present-day Nara Prefecture. This is how the history book describes it. There was a tyrant named Nagasune-hiko, who was tormenting the people. Hearing rumors of this, Jimmu attacked and defeated them to bring peace to the land. This is where the foundation of the current imperial family was laid. From Nagasune-hiko’s point of view, Jinmu may be a mere invader, but history is only depicted from the victor’s side. And in the entertainment of kagura, the pros and cons are irrelevant. In short, it is just a symbol that there are good ones and bad ones. First of all, Jinmu and his attendants appeared and introduced themselves and danced. In the middle of the performance, two demons appeared, creating a suspicious atmosphere. This is Nagasune-hiko and his men. This is a form of two gods and two demons, which you can often see in Iwami Kagura. Once again, a fierce dance ensues. The four of them fought each other with their swords, spinning around like a frame. Performance while wearing masks, heavy costumes and with fierce movements, was quite exhausting. When they returned to the dressing room, they were out of breath. Eventually, they defeat one of the enemies, but the leader still fights. I can’t help but admire the feats of the enemy. However, in spite of his efforts, he meets his end as if a huge tree is cut down from the roots and collapses.
Thanks for the gifts of money－御花御礼
At the end of each act, there is an “on hana onrei”. To put it simply, there is a time to thank the people who donated money. This is also a beautiful, flowing speech. I wanted to hear this, so I visited the backstage in between. The dressing room was a simple structure with a curtain stretched across the side of the Kagura-cottage. Costumes were lined up in rows, and actors sat on chairs as if they were struggling to breathe after finishing their roles. Inside, people were working hurriedly. It was like a field hospital. I don’t care how much onrei you have, and there is no need for anything special. All you have to do is hand the money to the person in charge. When the next performance was over, your name would be called. If they read out your name, it will be an unforgettable reminder
to be continued Part 2
Yamato Takeru 日本武尊
At this point, it was around eleven in the evening. Yamato Takeru is a real person, a hero who fought in various places on the orders of his father the Emperor. On the other hand, he is also a tragic hero who was shunned by his father the Emperor for his good performance and spent his whole life roaming through the country. The story is based on a famous episode in which he survived a fire attack by his enemies. The story begins as usual with the appearance of Yamato Takeru and his subordinate, Kibitsuhiko, in a dance. It was so beautiful that it looked as if a puppet had jumped out and moved.
Once they retracted, the enemy brothers now appeared. But here, things change a bit. Normally, they would perform a dance, say a few words, and then get into a battle with the heroes. But here, when they appear, they engage in a dialogue with each other. They speak in the Shimane dialect of everyday life. “You’ve got a nice fan. Is it from the Tokuyama boat race?” “Yes”. ”Still, it’s pretty crowded today” ”I hear there’s fireworks.” I guess they know the audience wants to take a break from the good and bad stories that had been performed for two consecutive performances. A little ingenuity like this is necessary to continue a long performance.
As they were making their plans to defeat Yamato Takeru, their master appeared. Again, he chatted with each other, saying things like, “He’s always been dark-skinned, so it doesn’t make any difference whether he wears a mask or not,” and “He’s excited because he’s a local.” The story goes on even during the comic break. How do we defeat Yamato Takeru? When they asked, the master gave them a plan: “You should set him on fire when he’s caught off guard.” The boss is actually a very wise man. They then pretend to submit to Yamato Takeru and invite him to hunt deer. From here, a rather famous episode in mythology unfolds. It is a story like this. They lured Yamato Takeru out into the field and set fire to the grass around him, setting him on fire. At this time, Takeru uses a sword given to him by his aunt to knock down the surrounding grass and escape the predicament. For this reason, this sword came to be known as “the sword that cleaves the grass. And from here, another fierce battle dance ensues. The heroes were unmasked, but the villains kept their masks on. But as the battle becomes more intense, the villains finally take their masks off. I can only assume that this is how hard the exercise is.
Ebisu 恵比寿
The time was already around midnight. People are starting to feel deeply sleepy. For some reason, children were coming up to the front. It was a festival, so it was not strange to see children awake at this time. Anyway, with such loud music, it would be the same if people were at home. It would be safer to stay at the venue, since the whole family was out there. Anyway, why? The answer to that question is quite simple. It was Ebisu. People are familiar with Ebisu and its kagura. In Japan, there is the so-called Seven Deities of Good Fortune. Shichifukujin (“seven gods of good fortune”) are a group of gods from Japan, China and India, regardless of their origins, who bring good fortune to people. (For more information, see.→）And Ebisu is the first of them all. This is what people think of Ebisu. He is always smiling, wears a crow’s hat, and holds a fishing rod to catch sea bream. Yes, the Kagura troupe has come up with a performance that is not about good and evil. The fact that we can see these innovations without getting bored is a result of the long, night-long performances.
Ebisu catches a sea bream as expected. Whenever Ebisu throws a fishing line and the audience tugs at it, the audience responds beautifully. The audience’s response to the situation was superb, and you could sense that they understood the kagura very well. Ebisu took out more and more sweets from the fish basket hanging on his waist and distributed them. This was what the children were looking for. This program took about half an hour.
Tenjin 天神
Next, they return to the story of good and evil. Tenjin is a famous god of learning in Japan. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are famous. Dazaifu, for example, is such a popular shrine that they joke that people from all over Kyushu gather there for New Year’s visits.
Tenjin was originally a real person named Sugawara Michizane 菅原道真, who was active in the late ninth century. He did not come from one of the mainstream political families of the time. However, because of his academic excellence, the emperor of the time loved him very much so Michizane could be promoted in the Imperial Court. On the other hand, he had policy conflicts with the Fujiwara clan, which was a major power, and they sent him to Kyushu. There he died in a fit of rage. After his death, a series of incidents took place at the Imperial Court. Lightning struck, sickness spread, and the supreme authority, Fujiwara no Tokihira 藤原時平, who was responsible for relegating Michizane, died of illness. The people feared that this was a tragedy caused by Michizane, and decided to worship him as a god. In this program, they will directly confront each other, just like Kagura.
First comes Michizane and his subordinates. Michizane states, “I am going to appeal to the gods for my innocence. The subordinate stops him from going alone. He says, “I will go with you.” Then, the villain, in this case Fujiwara no Tokihira, appeared with suspicious smoke. But here’s a further twist. Another mask appeared from underneath the mask, showing that the Demon King had actually taken over Tokihira. The battle of two against one begins. Intense, tireless movement. After the short break performance, it was very refreshing.
Jinlin 塵輪
This is another representative performance of Iwami Kagura. The two good guys and the two bad demons. The protagonist is Emperor Chuai 仲哀. He is a real person. He is described as the 14th emperor in the Japanese official history books. However, he has no particular achievements. His father is a hero named Yamato Takeru, and his wife is also a famous person. And yet, his presence in the book is extremely weak. In the first place, there are many scholars who doubt the very existence of the old age. So the fantasy elements are stronger. The appearance of his subordinate, Takamaro, followed by the appearance of Emperor Chuai. There are elaborate samurai dolls in Japan which parents mainly displayed to wish for the growth of their boys. A fantastic sight appeared in front of us, as if the dolls themselves were walking around. I think this is the essence of Iwami Kagura. Regardless of the history, Emperor Chuai is a hero here. Realism is not necessary for fantasy. A puppet-like hero defeats the bad demons. I could see things that only happen in cartoons and games unfold before my eyes. No, it’s as if we’ve somehow entered the game. That’s why children wield swords and learn difficult dialogues so easily. In fact, Kagura’s dialogues are difficult for adults to understand even if they read the script. Words that are not used in daily life nowadays come out one after another. The author of the first mentioned book wrote that he was amazed to see how children could say the lines so easily. He has gone to the trouble of posting the original text and asking readers if they can read it. The villains are also brilliantly graceful. They say, “We will bring pestilence to this country and make the people suffer.
When I first saw the picture, I thought the masks of Iwami Kagura were vulgar. They certainly don’t have the delicate expressions of Noh masks. They are large in shape and have an easily recognizable expression. However, if you see them in person, you will understand. In this showy stage, something like a Noh mask would not stand out. You can see that it was inevitably created in this environment, on this stage, under this lighting, with this musical accompaniment.
Demons spewed fire, swords were exchanged wildly and violently. The shouting echoes of the crowd were as exciting as ever. The taiko drum and the hand gong stirred up a sense of urgency at breakneck speed. There was no room for artistry there. Here is a form of traditional folk art that has evolved only for the purpose of entertaining people.
Yorimasa 頼政
Before I knew it, it was half past two in the morning. Only four more to go. After all the fierce breathless fighting performance, it was time for the audience to get tired again. Yorimasa is a real-life warlord. Here’s a little history lesson: In the early 12th century, the samurai emerged from a long period of aristocratic dominance. In the early 12th century, a long period of aristocratic dominance gave way to the rise of the samurai, who were under the rule of two warlords, the Taira 平 clan and the Minamoto 源 clan. The Taira clan was the first to come to power. However, those who were dissatisfied with the Taira clan called on the Minamoto clan to overthrow them. The first to stand up was Minamoto no Yorimasa. He had long sworn obedience to the Taira clan, so his rising shocked them. He was 77 years old. This means that it actually has little to do with Kagura. Just think of it as the name of a single hero. However, Yorimasa’s defeat of the mythical creature, “Nue” is so famous that it is recorded in history books. It is based on this episode. The story goes like this. The emperor Takakura tells Yorimasa, “Recently, because of the rampancy of Nue, the monster, the people in the capital are getting worried. Can’t you do something to exterminate it?” Yorimasa replied “I will get rid of them.” Yorimasa ducked for a moment. Then a monster appeared. With a mysterious smoke, it tries to attack the Emperor Takakura. Yorimasa rushes in just in time and chases the monster away.
The scene changes and the monkeys with agile movement appear. Why are there monkeys? In fact, the Nue monster is said to have a monkey for a head, a raccoon for a body, a tiger for arms and legs, and a snake for a tail. The monkeys begin to wrestle and play with each other. They bring children from the audience up to the stage and wrestle with them. A little relaxation time. The last person to come out was an older man. He looks like he’s drunk. A complete amateur but he was a resident of the kingdom of Kagura. His behavior was perfect as if he knew all about Kagura. The children were throwing the monkeys around. But at this point, the monkeys must have decided that this person was safe to throw. The man was tossed in the air with a joyful look. The kind of gradual and rapid movement is also very effective of Iwami kagura.
Here we return to the story. Yorimasa came and drove them out easily. This is where the enemy’s master, Nue comes in. The sideshow ended, and a violent spinning dance followed. Nue went out to the audience. Children scream and the audience’s sleepiness blown away. Before I knew it, it was half past two in the morning. Only four more to go. After all the fierce, breathless fighting performance. It was time for the audience to get tired again.
Shou-ki 鍾馗
There are only three performances left. “Shou-ki” is a Chinese hero. Legend has it that when the emperor was troubled by nightmares in the past, he appeared in a dream and conquered the disease. “This performance, Shou-ki, is a very important program in Iwami kagura,” a member of kagura troupe told me. As he says, the dance is very prestigious. The dancers behave in a grave and dignified tone. In accordance with the original legend, the purpose of this dance is to pray for the disappearance of plague and safety in the home. For this reason, they use the most expensive costumes, and the actors are usually veterans. Perhaps that’s why he carries not only a sword but also a chinowa 茅の輪, a ring that seals out evil. Moreover, Shou-ki doesn’t kill the demon, rather, he reforms him. The end was also noble and lofty.
Ju-rasetsu-nyo 十羅刹女
There were only two programs left. It’s 4:30 in the morning. The summer sky is already starting to brighten. This program has a little different taste and hue from other programs again. The protagonist is woman. She is not just a woman. She used to be demoness who took advantage of her great beauty to steal spirits of humans. However she was exposed to the teaching of Buddhism and she transformed herself and became a guardian of Buddhism. Therefore, her mask is not that of one just like a pretty princess, but that of a strong-willed woman. Naturally, the antagonist is also female. An actor uses Hannya 般若 (cf.→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/06/07/the-most-detailed-japanese-traditional-mask/）type mask looking cold hearted. Of course, actors are wearing a mask, so we cannot tell whether actors are male or female. Nevertheless, by wearing a mask, we are able to enter a weird and fantastic world that is not of this world. However, even at this hour, the dance was still intense and the speed had not diminished in the slightest. Not only that, but the villain changed costumes, masks, and even hair color in the middle of the performance.
The extermination of Orochi is the most famous episode in Japanese mythology, along with the Opening of Iwato. (cf.→） The story involves the rough and powerful deity, Susano being forced to leave the heavenly realm (Takamagaha高天原) due to a conflict with his sister Amaterasu, the main character of the Opening of Iwato), and bringing peace by defeating a terrible monster at Izumo 出雲. This program is the performance to summarize all of Iwami Kagura, and it would not be wrong to say that this performance is essence of creative ingenuity and originality with which Iwami Kagura has developed. The story goes like this: Susano was forced to leave Takamagahara and wandered from place to place. And when he came to the banks of Hii 斐伊 river in the land of Izumo, he saw an old couple weeping in front of their young daughter. He asked “Why are you weeping?” They answered, “We had eight daughters. But a terrible monster called ‘Yamata-no Orochi’ (a serpent with eight heads) demanded sacrifice every year. And so far we have sacrificed seven of our daughters. And now, we have to offer our last daughter.” Susanoo heard this and asked about the monster’s characteristics. Susanoo was so rampant that he was driven out of Takamagahara. He asked. “If I kill the monster, will you give me your daughter?” “We don’t want our daughter to be killed any more. Please,” they replied. Susanoo heard that the monster liked to drink, so he ordered them to make a strong poisonous sake. Then, on the day of the visit, the monster came out and found that there was a large quantity of his favorite drink. He then left the daughter aside to be taken care of later and drank the sake first. Then, when the monster was drunk, Susanoo was able to easily swing Orochi around and successfully killed the monster. He married the daughter with great honor. The festival venue was already beginning to brighten with the light of dawn. I’ve gotten used to the loud volume by now. The unique melody of Kagura has become familiar to me. Finally, expectation of seeing Orochi, the most attractive part of the show filled me up.
Tsukioka Yoshitoshi 月岡芳年 painted
Why is Orochi considered representative of Iwami Kagura? That is accounted for its shape. First, the body. The body is called “Jado” (meaning the body of a snake). People use Japanese paper made in the Iwami region as a material to make them. They connect rings made of bamboo with washi. In this way, the body of the snake, which can expand and contract freely, is completed. The rest is up to the performers. Orochi was able to move its whole body with one manipulator. The key point is how to hide the performer’s appearance. In addition, the performers set fireworks in Jado’s mouth, and let them burst into flames as needed. This kind of ingenuity began in the Meiji era (1868-1912). The tone was changed from a slow six-tone to a fast eight-tone, the jado was further invented, and the costumes became more luxurious. The emphasis was on entertainment that was more in tune with the times. First, an old couple (Ashinazuchi and Tenazuchi) and their two daughters appear. This is unusual. Normally, the story would begin with the crisis of the eighth daughter. However, the fact that there are two daughters means that one of them is the seventh daughter. Why is there a seventh daughter? Then Orochi, the star of the show, appears. This time there were four of them. This will affect the size of the area where the Kagura will be performed. In large venues, there can be as many as eight Orochi.
A weeping old couple and their eighth daughter (Kushii-inadahime). As if she has given up, the seventh daughter goes to Orochi. They pull the cloth together until the end. But Orochi is relentless, and devours her. Orochi wraps the daughter in his body. Eventually, the daughter disappears into Orochi. This is something you don’t usually see. This is only possible because the kagura is performed throughout the night, when there is plenty of time.
And finally, here comes Susanoo. He heard about the situation from the old couple. He declares that he will kill Orochi in exchange for taking the final daughter, Kushi-inadahime, as his wife.
Once that’s decided, it’s time to make sake. They boiled and boiled until they had enough poison to paralyze Orochi. When the sake was ready, Susanoo ducked behind the curtain for a moment.
Orochi reappeared, and four of them performed a variety of tricks, including spinning spirals and blowing fire. When they eventually found the sake, the heads would fight each other eagerly to drink. Susanoo came out again slowly and quietly to watch Orochi. Susanoo observed Orochi for a while. It would be easy to cut off Orochi’s head here. Of course, it’s not that easy.
Orochi suddenly woke up and attacked Susanoo. Orochi coiled himself up and tied Susanoo up with his long body. Orochi blew out fire and strangled Susanoo, trying to devour him. Susanoo swung his sword and tried to cut off his head. He finally breaks free from his bonds. This time, however, Orochi tries to eat the princess first. Oh no, princess was in danger. The music was playing like crazy, and the drummer was shouting “eisa, eisa” with his voice dry. The drummers had been beating the drums with their whole bodies for the whole night (even if they had to take turns). No, it wasn’t just the drummers. The entire Kagura troupe must have been exhausted. With the last of his strength, Susanoo pulled the Orochi’s body apart and cut off its head, one by one. I had already been watching it for hours. It’s the same story. It was as if I had just seen Iwami Kagura for the first time. I was both elated and fascinated. After everything was over, the entire Kagura troupe all came out and greeted the audience. Thank you for staying with us for such a long time. That’s what they said. It was pitch black when I came, but the sky had already dawned completely blue. It was a little after 6 a.m. The long, long night was over.
The road that had been so dark was now winding its way through the mountain village, bathed in the morning light. The demons and heroes had disappeared. Only the inside of my ears were filled with Kagura.
Date: 20th and 27th of July every year Location: Yasaka shrine and Tsuwano town, Tsuwano town, Katari district, Shimane prefecture Access: By air, you can go from Hagi/Iwami 萩・石見空港 Airport to Tsuwano via JR Shin-Yamaguchi 新山口. By Shinkansen: JR Shin-Yamaguchi. Or, if you want to use Sunrise Izumo 出雲, take the night train from Tokyo to Izumo via Osaka. From there, you can take the JR conventional line to Tsuwano via Masuda 益田.
Area
A small town in Shimane Prefecture had handed over from generation to generation one of the most beautiful performing arts in Japan. The place is Tsuwano 津和野. Together with Hagi 萩 to the west, it is a castle town that is popular among female tourists. Shimane Prefecture, to which Tsuwano belongs, is largely referred to as the Chugoku region. It belongs to the northern part of the region. The Shinkansen runs through the southern part (which includes Hiroshima Prefecture), but not the northern part. Therefore, transportation is not very convenient, and it is one of the least populated areas in Japan. It is about one-tenth the size of the neighboring domain centered in Hagi (the former domain’s area of control). The remains of samurai residences line the town and people call it the Little Kyoto of the region.
History
In 1542, the lord of the time learned the dance from the neighboring prefecture of present-day Yamaguchi. However, it was originally from Kyoto. It was once discontinued, but in 1643, the lord sent his vassal directly to Kyoto to learn it again. Although the practice has died out in Kyoto and Yamaguchi, it has continued here to this day. People in other areas perform the so-called “Sagimai” (the heron dance) , but this is the only one where it has been passed down correctly and is considered to be the oldest.
Two people perform the role of the heron. Both wear white clothes and scarlet hakama (an old Japanese costume, similar to pants). On their heads are imitations of herons, and on their backs are feathers. The dance looks very graceful, but the feathers they wear are made of 39 layers of Japanese cypress and weigh about 15 kilograms. We can see that the old people devised a way to make the wings look most beautiful when they are open. In addition, there are two “stick-wielders,” drums, flutes, and singers. Each of them wears a traditional formal dress and accompanies the group.
First of all, the Little Sagimai Dance, performed by an elementary school girl, precedes it. After that, the group departs, led by Sarutahiko wearing a nose-high mask. Then, from the Yasaka Shrine, the group dances for two hours at 11 locations in the town. Seven days later, the dance is performed at nine locations, following the reverse course.
