Day; The third Saturday in April

Location; Hoshakuji-temple 宝積寺, 1 Senbara, Ooyamazaki, Ooyamazaki-cho, Otokuni District, Kyoto Prefecture

Access; About a 10-minute walk from JR Yamazaki Station, or a 15-minute walk from Hankyu Oyamazaki Station

From Kyoto Station, it’s about 15 minutes by JR line, or about 20 minutes from Karasuma Station (in Kyoto City) via the Hankyu Line; both routes head toward Osaka and Kobe. Trains run about once every 10 minutes.

Saturday, April 17, 2026

About Hōshaku-ji Temple

Founded in the early 7th century by imperial decree. Due to its near proximity to the capital, many wars ravaged the temple, leaving it in ruins time and again; however, it was rebuilt each time and has continued to stand to this day. In particular, it is famous as the site where, in the early 16th century, the armies of Akechi Mitsuhide—who overthrew his lord Oda Nobunaga, who was on the verge of unifying the country, by accusing him of treason—and Toyotomi Hideyoshi—who pursued Mitsuhide and later succeeded in unifying the country—clashed in a decisive battle.

Because this temple is located halfway up a mountain called Tennozan, people still say things like “This is Tennozan” when they reach a critical juncture in a major undertaking. Though it’s not exactly a mountain, you do have to climb a fairly steep slope to get to the temple.

Oni’s Appearance

At 2:00 p.m., a procession of Onis, led by a monk, makes its way down the approach leading to the main hall.

It is said that this has been performed since the temple’s founding as part of a ritual called Tsuina*, in which demons are exorcised through prayer; however, the fact that, in addition to monks and demons, people dressed as the Seven Lucky Gods*—and, for some reason, even anime characters—show up is a modern touch.

*The Tsuina ceremony is a Buddhist ritual that was introduced to Japan from the Asian mainland as a way to drive away the evils of the past year and welcome the new year. However, various elements have been incorporated over time, and today it is primarily celebrated on Setsubun in February (the day marking the transition from winter to spring), with a variety of events held across the country.

→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/03/19/ceremony-to-drive-out-evil-spirits-in-nara-in-the-case-of-kofukuji-temple-and-horyuji-temple/

*→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/04/05/seven-deities-of-good-fortune-parade-celebrating-the-new-year-at-the-center-of-tokyo/

Buddhist Ceremonies

Following this, the participants enter the hall, where the monks continue their chanting. Here, a ritual known as a goma ceremony is performed. A goma ceremony is a ritual in which small pieces of firewood called goma are placed in the fire, along with offerings, as part of a prayer to the Buddha. Since the door is open, you can see inside from the outside. This allows you to confirm that the Oni is being smoked along with everything else.

At around 3:00 p.m., the ritual ends and the Onis come out. At this time, the Onis’ role is considered to be over.

There are a total of four Onis featured. Although the exact date of their creation is unclear, each mask has a unique, aged appearance.

Epilogue

After that, there will be the traditional mochi-throwing ceremony and a photo session with the oni, and everything will wrap up by 3:30.
The mochi-throwing ceremony involves tossing mochi—and sometimes sweets—into the crowd. It is performed with the intention of sharing good fortune with everyone.

Visitors stroll down the hill at their own way. The town stands quietly, having absorbed a rich tapestry of history.
Nearby is the distillery for the Yamazaki brand, Suntory’s flagship whiskey*, which offers tours by appointment. It’s a must-visit destination for any whiskey lover.

*https://www.suntory.com/factory/yamazaki

Date; Every year on May 5

Location; Hata Chokouji-temple 畑朝光寺、 609 Hata 畑, Kato City, Hyogo Prefecture

Access; The nearest stations are Takino or Yashiro. It is about 12 kilometers from there.
There is a tourist information center at Yashiro Station, and bike-sharing services are available at both Yashiro 社 and Takino 滝野 stations (Next to Yashiro Station), which anyone can use.

It takes about 40 minutes (one train per hour) from Kakogawa to Yashiro or Takino Station via the Kakogawa Line. It takes about 1 hour to get to Kakogawa from Osaka.

*visited on May 5, 2026

Prologue

Kato City in Hyogo Prefecture isn’t exactly a well-known town. When people think of Hyogo, they usually think of the port city of Kobe in the east, or Himeji in the west, home to the World Heritage Site Himeji Castle. Kato City is an inland town located roughly halfway between the two. In a rather remote part of that town stands a temple designated as a National Treasure, where a “Demon Oni Dance” is said to gather many people. What’s more, they still use “Oni” masks that were crafted over 400 years ago. I wondered exactly what kind of dance it was. I felt I had to go and see for myself, so I set out on a trip.

Let’s watch the “Oni” dance

Schedule

The monks will enter at 1:00 p.m., and the Oni dance will begin at 1:30 p.m.

Stage

According to tradition, Chōkō-ji Temple was relocated to this site in the 12th century. The main hall, which records indicate was built in the early 15th century, is designated a National Treasure, and the bell tower is an Important Cultural Property.

A large crowd has been eagerly waiting for over an hour, as if every moment counts. Most of them appeared to be locals.
A stage has been set up in front of the main hall, and the audience is waiting, surrounding it on all sides. The poster of the “Oni” on the bulletin board also gets crowd exited.

It’s finally time to begin

The dull, distinctive sound of a temple gong rings out. The first character to appear is “Okina.” While ‘Okina’ literally means “old man,” here he serves as a sort of harbinger of things to come. He comes out twice, holding a torch.

And then, finally, the “Oni” appear. At first, they come one by one. First, a red Oni holding a torch.

Next up is the blue Oni wielding an axe. All the Oni stomp their feet powerfully on the ground as they approach.

Finally, Oni wielding a long sword appears. All of the masks look quite old. That’s because they are still using the original masks, which were made around the 14th century. Although they would ideally like to create replicas, those involved say it would be far too costly.

One’s movements are simple. They just walk, jump, and leap while changing direction. They simply stomp the ground powerfully, thud, thud. This originally had the meaning of driving away evil spirits from the land by stamping one’s feet firmly on the ground.

Unfortunately, although there are supposed to be four characters, only three appear this time. That said, each one exudes the distinctive aura of a traditional mask.

Next, the three of them appear together and cast curses on the rice cake displayed in the center. This lasts about 40 minutes and ends around 2:10 p.m.
Afterward, the rice cake is cut into small pieces and distributed to anyone who wants some.

Impression

As for sound, there is nothing but the monotonous clang of a gong. The movements are equally simple: walking, stomping, and leaping. Yet despite this simplicity, the space has a mysterious quality that seems to be imbued with a divine presence. Perhaps this is due in part to the power of the ancient masks, or perhaps it stems from the weight of a tradition that has been passed down for hundreds of years. How one evaluates this experience can only be left to the impressions of those who have actually been there.

Incidentally, among the spectators surrounding the area, none of those seated on the steps of the main hall had set up tripods. Perhaps there is some unspoken rule.

Heading to Hata Chōkōji Temple

How can tourists visit the temple?

The only public transportation option for getting to the nearest station is the Kakogawa Line. However, the Kakogawa Line is a single-track local line with only one train per hour. Therefore, to make it on time, you need to leave Osaka shortly after 8:00 a.m. and transfer from the Kobe Line to the Kakogawa Line at Kakogawa Station. It’s quite inconvenient. The main event is scheduled to start just after 1:00 p.m., but just in case something comes up, you can safely assume that the 9:00 p.m. Osaka time is the latest you’ll need to be there. Additionally, even though it’s more than 10 kilometers from the station, there’s no public transportation. Tourists would have to go by bike or on foot, but since walking isn’t a realistic option, a bike is the only choice. Fortunately, however, there are bike-sharing services available at Takino Station and Yashiro Station. The bikes can be rented cheaply with a simple registration process. Yashiro Station also has a tourist information center, so while it’s a bit farther from the temple, it’s convenient for tourists who aren’t familiar with the area.

So, I actually went there

This time, I brought my folding bike. I set off from Takino Station around 10:30 a.m. For a while, I rode along busy city streets, but…

Soon the road turns into a peaceful country lane, and once you see the banners, the temple is just around the corner. The path is mostly flat, so it’s not tough going.

There are convenience stores dotted along the road for about 5 kilometers, and there’s one near the temple as well, so you can pick up just about anything there. Even taking it easy, I arrived just after 11:30. It took a little over an hour.

Date: 3 February
Location: Nagata Shrine 長田神社 3-1-1 Nagata-cho 長田町, Nagata-ku 長田区, Kobe, Hyogo prefecture
Access: For City Subway, Hankyu 阪急, Hanshi阪神 and Sanyo 山陽 trains, get off at Nagata (Nagata-jinja-mae) Station and walk 5 minutes northwards from Nagata-jinja-mae Shopping Street.
For JR, change at Sannomiya 三宮/Kobe 神戸/Shinnagata 新長田 Station to City Subway, Hankyu, Hanshin or Sanyo and get off at Nagata (Nagata-jinja-mae) Station.
City buses, routes 3, 4 (JR Kobe/Hyogo Stn.) and 17 (JR Shin-Nagata Stn.), get off at Nagata-jinja-mae, respectively.

prologue~ 3 points I recommend

“Since I am in Japan during Setsubun, I want to see the japanese Oni. But I can’t go around a lot at once. So where is it good? I want to see many good things efficiently if possible. “
In such a case, this site recommend *Setsubun at Nagata Shrine. The first point I recommend. It’s easy to get to. It can’t be helped, but there are many inconvenient places where traditional events remain. This shrine is about 30 minutes by train from central Kobe. Kobe is close to Osaka and Kyoto, and as a port city, Kobe itself attracts many tourists.
The second point. There are many Onis. It’s not bad to watch only one Oni carefully, but you want to see many if possible. On that point, in this shrine, as many as seven appear at once.
The third point is that the mask is well made. There are many Oni events in Hyogo prefecture, and all of which are of good workmanship. This is probably due to the fact that a lot of skilled craftsmen came from Kyoto and Nara. Also, the technique was easy to convey. Kyoto and Nara are both ancient capitals and the birthplace of many Buddhist sculptures.

*Setsubun originally meant a day to divide the seasons. And Tsuina Ceremony is an event to exorcise the bad luck of the year. These two were combined someday, and the current Setsubun event was born. Therefore, many people recognize February 3 as Setsubun, the day on which people throw beans at ogres to drive them away.

program of a ceremony

On the day of the event, early in the morning, those who play the role of Oni purify themselves on the beach. This is an important ritual that is performed from the day before. From around noon, the Oni actors and others involved parade through the town and arrive at the shrine. At 1 o’clock in the afternoon, the Onis’ performance finally begins. A long podium on which the Oni walk is set up in the hall, and the audience is waiting in front of a bamboo fence. Taro Oni appears first, alone. Then the five Onis, including Taro Oni, appear in full force. Finally, the Mochi-Wari Oni and Shirikujiri Oni, regarded as the strongest Oni, appear. This is repeated twice. So by the end of the performance, the sun has completely set and a fantastic scene appears with torches blazing in the night sky.

Oni and the Stage

Two large rice cakes are hung in the shrine. These are the symbol of the sun and the moon, and thus heaven and earth. Alongside them hang 64 rice cakes and sakaki (cleyera japonica) leaves. This represents the whole country, as Japan was called 64 provinces in the past. In addition, rice cakes and tangerines adorn the center of the worship hall. These represent the universe and the stars.

In this shrine, the Oni are not daemons. They are messengers who bring happiness to people instead of God. Therefore, there are no bean-throwing ceremonies, and there is no chanting of ‘Oni wa soto’ (meaning to drive out the ogres, the symbol of misfortune)

After the 30-minute ritual that begins at 1:30, it is time for the Onis to appear.

Taro oni appear

At 2 pm, finally, the Oni appear. At first, the Taro oni appeared alone. Wielding a torch, he performs a vigorous preliminaries. He appears repeatedly three times. He will appear after this. He is the most frequent on this day.

Five Oni on the stage

This time, five Onis continue to appear on the stage. Besides Taro, they are Aka Oni, Uba Oni, Housuke Oni, Ao Oni. The scene of the five Oni lined up on stage is a spectacle. The presenter then adds witty commentary. For example, such as “This Oni is too good-looking to be wearing a mask” or “He is a veteran who has already played the role of the Oni ten times this year”. It is also said that if the Ao oni pats you on the head, your eyesight will improve.

Aka and Ao mean the color, red and blue. The uba means an old woman. The Housuke represents a stupid man, but he has the most fearsome face that does not look very like that.

Mochiwari Oni and Shirikujiri Oni

And last but not least, Mochiwari Oni and Shirikujiri Oni. These are the strongest Oni, holding swords and spears and wielding torches to shake off the evils of the world. The meaning of the Shikujiri Oni is unknown, but the Mochiwari Oni means the Oni that breaks rice cakes (mochi). And as the name suggests, to smash the rice cakes with an axe is the climax of the event. By then, it was already nearly 6 pm.

Thus, the event, which continued during the day, comes to an end with the year’s prayers.
To be a Mochiwari Oni, one must have played the role of Oni at least seven times. In addition, the various people involved, including the Oni, must basically be born in the area. Despite these restrictions, fortunately, people who have played the role of oni once want to do it again and again, so there seems to be no need to worry about successors. The event has continued for more than 600 years, and I am not the only one who hopes that it will continue in the future.

Kobe is a major city along with Osaka and Kyoto. Its centre is Sannomiya 三宮. There is no shortage of sightseeing. Be sure to visit once when you visit the port city.

cf. https://www.feel-kobe.jp/en/

Date: 7 January every year
Location: Taizanji-temple 太山寺, Zenkai-224 Ikawadani-cho, Nishi Ward, Kobe, Hyogo
Access: 10 minutes by Shinki 神姫 bus from Ikawadani 伊川谷, from where it is a 5-minute walk. However, there is only one bus every hour.
　　　　Or a 30-minute walk from Gakuen-toshi 学園都市.
　　　　Both stations are about 30 minutes from Sannomiya 三宮 (Central shopping district of Kobe) by the Seishin 西神 Subway.

based on a visit on 7 January 2018

prologue

Nationally, Setsubun 節分, or Oniyarai 鬼遣らい (To drive away bad evil spirits represented by Oni demons), is a fixed date of 3 February. On this day, Oni demons appear in many parts of the country and beans are scattered to scare them away. Although it seems to have become less common these days, it is sometimes held in ordinary households with children, and you can find Oni masks in supermarkets.
Here in Hyogo Prefecture, however, events already start in January in various parts of the prefecture. There is a record that Oni yarai events were originally held at court on New Year’s Eve in the old days, so there is nothing wrong with going in January. Around 20 or more locations throughout Hyogo Prefecture. The latest is in May. This website reports on one of them today.
cf. http://kobe.travel.coocan.jp/shrine_temple/tuinashiki.htm

Taizanji-temple 太山寺

The venue, Taizanji Temple, is located in a mountain village far from the station. It is a 30-minute walk along a winter-dried road. The temple can be seen standing quietly. Although the temple has a quiet atmosphere now, it used to be a large temple with about 40 temples and halls. Founded in 973. It was later damaged by fire, but reconstruction began in 1293. For this reason, the main hall is the only one in Hyogo Prefecture to be designated a national treasure. Its main hall is filled with the enthusiasm of people on 7 January. The festival starts at 2pm, but by 1.30pm it is already full of people. Incidentally, there is no admission fee on this day. Conscientious management means that on days when there are events, it is free.

program of a ceremony

Starts at 2 pm. Before that, there will be a brief explanation by the resident priest. Then the people concerned will sprinkle water on the floor. The ceremony uses torches, so it would be a big problem if the fire spread. It is astonishing that this kind of event has been carried on for so long in such a situation.
There will be a total of four Oni demons. They are the Hashiri-Oni (Running Oni), the Taro Oni, the Jiro Oni and the Baba Oni. Of these, Taro and below appear in groups of three. Each one lasts about five minutes. This is repeated about 10 times in total. The only background music is the sound of Japanese drum. The doors of the main hall are closed when the performance begins, so it is pitch-dark inside. When the heavy bass drumbeats begin to resonate in the stomach, the Oni finally make their appearance.

hashiri Oni 走り鬼

Running Oni appear alone. The person chosen to play the role of the Oni purifying themselves a one-day and performs water purification.

Three Onis, Taro, jiro, and Baba

When the running Oni is finished, three Onis appear. They are named Taro 太郎, Jiro 次郎 and Baba 婆. Taro and Jiro are (or perhaps it is more correct to say were…) typical Japanese male names. They seem to have lost much of their popularity nowadays). The first son is named Taro and the second son is named Jiro. The word ‘ro’ means man. Even so, Taro is still often used as the name of a shop or a robot.

The masks are said to have been made by Unkei 運慶 (early 13th century), the most famous Japanese Buddhist master. In fact, it was not certain, and the resident explained that it was only an oral tradition with smile. The carving of the face is so superb that we can nod our heads in agreement when we are told so. The area is close to Kyoto and Nara, so there must have been many skilled craftsmen. On New Year’s Eve, the great religious city of Hieizan 比叡山 also holds a ritual to drive away demons, and the Oni masks that appear there are said to be modelled on those from here.

Ko-oni 子鬼

In between there are also child Onis by children. A moment’s peace of mind among the terrifying Onis. Their serious expressions are adorable.
The explanation is late, but the Oni here are not bad demons, but Oni that bring happiness to people.

Oni, forever

The direction in which the Onis appear changes each time, and they are called mountains and villages respectively.

The audience stands in the pitch-dark hall, lit only by the light of torches. All that can be heard is the deep, resonant sound of the Japanese drums and the stomping of the onis’ feet on the floor.

An hour and a half later, a rice cake throwing ceremony takes place at the temple, which has been opened to the public, and the visitors disperse in their own directions.

On the way back, one of the biggest cities in the Kansai region, Kobe, awaits.

https://www.feel-kobe.jp/column/taisanji/

Date: 3 February every year
Location: 97 Okazaki Nishitenno-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto
Access: From Kyoto Station, take city bus 5 or Raku Bus 100 for 30 minutes.

*This article is based on events in 2018.

Heian Jingu (grand shrine) 平安神宮

Heian Shrine is one of Kyoto’s most popular tourist attractions. In fact, its history is surprisingly recent, having been founded in 1895. It was around the time when the samurai regime, the Tokugawa family, was overthrown and the new era known as the Meiji period began. For the people of Kyoto, a major event occurred. The emperor is gone. Or, to be more precise, he went to the new capital, Tokyo. There was considerable resistance to this at the time, so the new government was reportedly bitter and convinced people that the Emperor was only going to Tokyo for a visit. The emperor never returned to Kyoto after that, and no government has yet issued a formal declaration of the capital. Of course, this does not mean that Tokyo was not the capital. However, the Kyoto people, who had long been the capital of the dynasty, were disappointed. Against this backdrop, a movement arose to recreate the time when the capital was first established in Kyoto, and the Kyoto people built this shrine. This is a five-eighths scale replica of the central location established by the regime at the end of the 8th century, when Kyoto was declared the capital of Japan. It was called Heian-kyo 平安京, and later became the source of the term Heian period. It remained the political center for a long time until the early 12th century, when powerful warriors established their own government in Kamakura in the Kanto region and brought Kyoto under their control.

(ceremony of) driving out evil spirits ~Daina-no gi 大儺之儀

Rituals called Setsubun 節分 are held in many places around 3 February, but the ceremony here at Heian Jingu Shrine is different. Setsubun is a concept that originally came from China and refers to the division of the year into four parts, each of which is a turning point. And at the same time, it was mixed with a ceremony to drive away evil spirits called Tsuina 追儺 Ceremony. It used to be held at the end of the year at court. According to records of the time, it was solemnly held at 8pm with the Emperor in attendance and many nobles participating. The ceremony is called the ‘Daina-no gi’, which is held in the presence of the Emperor on a large scale. Dai” means big, “gi 儀” means ceremony. The Setsubun ceremony at Heian Shrine is a faithful adaptation of this ritual under the supervision of experts.

Onmyo-ji 陰陽師 and Houso-shi 方相氏

The ceremony begins with a gathering of people dressed in the clothing of the time. In the past, the emperor actually watched this, and it would have been performed in a more solemn atmosphere, as witchcraft was considered more important than it is today. The central figure in the ceremony is a person known as the ‘onmyouji’. The words ‘on’ and ‘myo’ stand for yin and yang. This is also a philosophy and science from China, which holds that the world is made up of the transitions of yin and yang. It was mixed with the idea that all matter in the world is made up of the five elements to form a single system of study. It was further developed in Japan in its own unique way, called onmyoudo, and onmyouji is the official in charge of it. Their work included astronomy and divination. The most famous Onmyo-ji (yin-yang master) was a man called Abe-no Kiyoaki 安倍晴明, to whom many legends have been attached. He is said to have been born between a fox and a man, or to have controlled at will a kind of yokai-like creatures called shikigam式神. Even today, he often appears in novels and dramas. The ceremony proceeds with this Onmyoji taking the lead. It involves using peach trees, shooting bows and arrows, and cutting hollows with swords. The bow, in particular, is believed to have the power to drive away demons with the sound of its strings alone, and can often be seen practised in other regions.

Another person who plays an indispensable and important role is the ‘Housou-shi’. This is a sorcerer with four eyes and the power to ward off evil. However, in later life, the four eyes are feared by people and eventually turn into demons.

The ‘Hōsō-shi’ strike the shields they carry, and with the children in tow, they exit the premises, saying ‘We’ll drive the demons away’. By this time the large Jingu is full of spectators. This is the first part.

Scare off Oni demons with a bean

About 30 minutes of waiting. Suddenly the Oni demons that were supposed to have been chased away appear. This is a stage direction. After all, modern audiences are not convinced unless the Oni demons actually appear. Oni demons appear in the precincts or in the Daigoku-den Hall 大極殿 (Where emperors held political office in the past. Today, the main hall) and make strange noises to intimidate spectators. The Shigeyama 茂山 troupe, who specialists in kyogen, are in charge of the performance, so it is quite a powerful and interesting spectacle.

Eventually, the demons that went on the rampage are dispelled by the magical power of the beans scattered by the Toshi-otoko*. Afterwards, a bean-throwing event is also held for the spectators.
*Tosi-otoko 年男→In Japan, each year is named after an animal, followed by 12 more. The first starts with rat, the idea being that if you are born in the year of the rat, no matter how many years pass, the year of the rat is your year.

Places of interest nearby

Seimei shrine 清明神社　This is shrine dedicated to Abe-no Seimei.

Although it is not a large shrine, the Ichijo-modori Bridge, where Seimei is said to have placed his shikigami (Tool of the sprits), has been recreated in the precincts of the shrine. The ruins of the actual bridge are also nearby. The bridge was believed to be a bridge between this world and the land of the dead, meaning a bridge of return. In recent years, figure skater Yuzuru Hanyu 羽生結弦, who won gold medals at two consecutive Olympic Games, has used a song based on the motif of Seimei, making it a popular destination for his fans.

Kyoto gosho 京都御所

This is where the Emperor once actually lived when he was in Kyoto, and is now open to all to visit at any time.

cf.
Heian grand shrine http://www.heianjingu.or.jp/english/english.html
Seimei shrine https://en.japantravel.com/kyoto/seimei-shrine-in-kyoto/67855 etc.

Date: January 14th every year
Location: Otsu town 177, Gojo city, Nara prefecture
Access: 10 minutes by car from JR Yamato Futami Station, or 30 minutes on foot.

What is the purpose of doing this?

Onis with huge torches wielding fire. Such events are held at a place called Nenbutsuji Temple 念仏寺. It is a very inconvenient place. The official website even lists the last train schedule. Every year, they hold an event where onis run with torches in the temple.
Part of an event called Shusho-e 修正会. Shusho-e is a Buddhist event held at New Year’s to pray for a good harvest and to ward off bad luck. Here at Nenbutsuji Temple, we regard it as an event to rid ourselves of past sins and pray for happiness in the new year. The final day is Kechigan 結願. Kechigan means “consummation of a vow period”.

The masks used in the current event were made of cypress in 1961. However, the older masks were made in 1468, so we can assume that this event started at least around that time.

Schedule of Events

Why don’t we go to Dada-do? There are no foxes or raccoons there. If there are, we can go back. But then ogres appeared!

This time, the stage was the Dada-do 陀々堂 in Nenbutsu-ji Temple 念仏寺 where such a children’s song is handed down. It is roughly divided into daytime and nighttime sessions. In the daytime, onis appear and run around with torches as in the nighttime, but they do not set fire to the torches. It’s like a kind of rehearsal. But it has the advantage that there are not as many people as at night. Also, since it is bright, you can see the gestures and masks clearly. In the past, people used to make the masks from a single tree made of Japanese cypress, which weighed about 4.5 kg, but now they use masks made of a single tree made of thatch.

However, the main attraction is still at night. Fire seems to have something that makes people’s hearts flutter. Whether or not you’ve prepared well for the daytime session, the main event is the evening session.
The evening session begins at 9 p.m.
As the sound of sticks tapping on the wall rang out, the monks entered first, blowing hollow shells. Behind them are the ogres. The monks began to shout, and the sound of sticks and more bells rang out. It’s time to begin. The sound of the bells was and still is used to warn people of fire. The sound of the bells quickens people’s heartbeats and heightens their sense of danger. People also call tapping on the wall with a stick “Amitabha’s shoulder tapping,” a unique name. In Buddhism, Amitabha is the Buddha who saves all people.
In the meantime, the first person to handle the fire in the hall (called katte) appeared with a large torch. He draws the Chinese character for water 水 in the hollow to prevent the fire from raging. Right behind him was a waterman named Kawase with a bucket of water to put out the fire and clear away the sparks. When it was over, the demons finally made their appearance.

A father ogre, a mother Oni, and a child Oni: there are three Onis in total:. It is said that the ogres here are not bad, but good, bringing good fortune to the people. That’s why they have quite charming faces.
The assistants pass the burning torches to the Onis. The Oni puts it on his crotch and supports it with one hand. The torch is 70 centimeters in diameter and weighs about 60 kilograms. There are two pillars in the center of the hall, so when the Onis appear, they move one by one to the next. When the child Oni appears, the three Onis are all together, creating a breathtaking sight. In this way, the demon circled the hall three times before finally leaving the hall.
Anyone can play the role of an Oni, but once they do, they often continue to do so. They bathe in water for a week and avoid fire. It takes a lot of strength and energy to be an Oni, so when they become weak, they are passed on to the next person. The event ends with people trying to steal the paper strings from the Onis, as the paper strings that the Onis wear on their bodies is said to ward off evil.
Ends around 9:30 p.m.

The nearest town, Gojo, is a traditional building preservation district where the streets of olden times remain intact. If you have time, you should definitely take a stroll.

Date: February 2nd of every year
Location: 30 Kaguragaoka-cho, Yoshida, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Access: A 20-minute walk from Demachiyanagi 出町柳 Station on the Keihan 京阪 Railway. Or take the 206 bus from Kyoto Station, get off at”Kyodai Seimon -mae 京大正門前 (the main gate of Kyoto University), and walk 5 minutes.

Setsubun rituals*¹ are one of the most popular winter traditions held across the country. Although it is becoming less common, people still perform it at home, at shrines and temples, and at schools. Basically, it is held on February 3rd, but in Hyogo and other prefectures, people often hold it in January, and in Hiei-zan*²,they do it on New Year’s Eve. Here at Yoshida Shrine, although the day is orthodoxly set for the 3rd, a performance takes place on the night of the 2nd. This performance is not particularly unusual, as they do it everywhere. It is just that the number of visitors here is tremendous. The approach in front of the shrine has about 800 street vendors. The next day, the shrine held a lottery where the first prize was a car. This website has yet to find out why Yoshida Shrine was the only shrine to hold such a large Setsubun event. However, considering that this kind of event would not have been possible outside of Kyoto, it makes me realize the power of Kyoto as a city.

*1:Setsubun 節分 A concept introduced from China, the word means to divide the seasons. It also refers to the events that take place at that time. Nowadays, however, Setsubun is used only for the border between winter and spring, and people are not aware of it in other seasons.
*2: Hiei-zan A holy place of Buddhism opened by Saicho 最澄 after he finished his studies in China in the 780s. It is located on the border between Kyoto and Shiga prefectures. This place is the center of Buddhism in Japan, along with Koya-san 高野山, which Kukai 空海 founded at the same time. In both cases, temples line the entire mountain (about 100 in the case of Hieizan).

Origin of the Ceremony

Kyoto became the center of Japan in both name and reality around the 780s. The Setsubun Festival at Yoshida Shrine is also famous for its ability to pass on to the present a large number of events from that time. This is supported by the existence of “Hosou-shi 方相氏”. This is a ritual that has been passed down from China, where it is believed that a kind of demon called “Hōsōu-shi” is able to exterminate evil spirits. The Chinese thought that in order to contain the demons, they needed a kind of psychic who also had the power of demons. That’s when they came up with the idea of “Hosou-shi”. The Japanese people imported it directly from China to Japan. Hence, the “Hosou-Shi” has four eyes. And he appears in a red costume, accompanied by a child. The color red has the meaning of protection against evil.

On the day

On the day of the event, the ceremony began at 6:00 p.m. First of all, three demons appear and rampage in front of the audience who stand inside the ropes in order to keep them from going out near the demons. However, they only waved their golden sticks around and shouted “Oh, wow! Then came the “Hōsōu-shi” with their children in tow. The demons resist. However, they are not the enemy of the overwhelmingly powerful “Hōsōu-shi”, and they repeatedly take a stance and get hit. In this way, they go around the building called Maidono 舞殿 three times. When the demon has left, the “hoosou-shi” strikes the shield he is holding and declares that he has driven away the evil spirit. Finally, the men in charge draw the bowstring. They believed that this sound would complete the protection against evil spirits.

Actual situation

In fact, around 5:00 p.m. (when it is already dark) the area around the shrine is filled with people on their way to the shrine. The approach to the shrine looked as if it might be the site of a big concert. Steps are slow and unsteady. When you enter the shrine, the first thing you see is a place where you wash your hands and purify your mouth with water to cleanse yourself. There was already a long queue here. Naturally, the area in front of the dance hall is roped off, and it becomes so packed with people that there is no room to move. Reluctantly, people go to the slope of the mountain at the back. Like an outdoor concert, the slope got filled with people. From the top of the mountain, you cannot see the important part of the ceremony. The path leading to the maidono is also crowded with people, so even the people here cannot see the ceremony. The people who have secured the front row have already been there since around three in the afternoon. And the actual performance lasted less than an hour. If you want to know how scary Kyoto can be, you should definitely try it out. But only if you have plenty of time to spare.

Date: Saturday and Sunday around October 10
Location: around the castle, Phoenix Street, etc.
Access: Just over an hour from Kintetsu Nagoya to Tsu Shinmachi

Tsu, the city and the port

The present Mie Prefecture used to be called “Ise 伊勢”. Its center is Tsu 津. There is an old saying, “It is Tsu that supports Ise, and it is Ise that supports Tsu.” The shortest name in Japan, “Tsu,” means port. And when we think of Ise, we all think of Ise grand shrine. In the 17th century, when travel became popular, paying a visit to the Ise grand shrine became an excuse to travel. The previous phrase means that Tsu prospered as a gateway because of the Ise grand shrine, and the Ise shrine prospered because of the port of Tsu.

Tsu festival

In Tsu, there is a very strange performing folk art that uses masks. Tsu holds a folk performing art that is rare in Japan. These are “Shagouma” and “Tojin Odori”. They are performed at the Tsu Festival.
The history of Tsu festival dates back to the early 17th century. The lord who ruled the area moved the Hachiman shrine in 1632. Five years later the festival began. And the feudal lord himself donated money to the shrine, and the festival began to be held with the interest from that money. Since the fall of the samurai regime in the 19th century, the festival has continued to be held, although there have been some changes in the offering. In the old days, there were many masquerade parades and floats. Today, it is a place for the Daimyo processions (the feudal lords’ processions) and various entertainment performances. World War Ⅱ burned down all the floats and decorations. Among them, the ones we will introduce here are “Shagouma” and “Tojin Odori 唐人踊り”.

Shagouma しゃご馬

“Shagouma” is a folk performing art that resembles a mounted warrior. Originally, it was an actual mounted warrior who walked as a guard at festivals. They disappeared with the end of the samurai era, but somehow they have remained as a folk art until now. They wear a wig made of red dyed yak hair on their heads. It is said that the purpose of this wig is to gain divine power through this hair. Then they put on a jinbaori 陣羽織 (a traditional cloth worn) and a demon mask. Jinbaori is a special jacket worn by samurai during wars in the past. In spite of their shabby appearance, they wear papier-mâché in the shape of horses on their bodies as if they are swimming floats. They look like children playing at an amusement park.

The horses have reins attached to them, and while holding these reins, with the sound of hora shells they move with a vigorous jumping motion, accompanied by the sound of drums and vigorous shouting in the background. Sometimes they attack children. This is why all the children living in this area are afraid of “Shagouma”. Therefore, parents in this area scold their children when they misbehave, saying, “If you misbehave, Shagouma will come. They are so scary to the children, but the citizens love them. During the festival, they go around the city and perform in front of stores. Then they receive a congratulatory gift.
There is no similar art form in the whole country. It is a folk art unique to Tsu.

Tojin-odori (Chinese dance) 唐人踊り

Joseon missions

“Tojin 唐人” represents the old Chinese dynasty “Tang”, so the word Toujin originally meant Chinese. However, since the Tokugawa shogunate didn’t allow most foreigners to enter in the 17th century, it also became a name for foreigners in general.

For this reason, the “Tojin odori” here at Tsu Festival refers to the Korean envoys. Because the Tokugawa Shogunate severely restricted trade with foreign countries, there were few opportunities for ordinary people to see foreigners. However, only the Korean delegation occasionally visited Japan and met the shogun. During the Tokugawa Shogunate, there are records of 12 visits. The foreign knowledge and culture they brought was very important to Japan. They marched in a procession from Kyushu to Edo (Tokyo), which became a very popular topic among the common people. As a result, many people began to imitate them. The ” Tojin Odori” of the Tsu Festival is said to be an imitation of this.

Outline of “Tojin-odori”

Tojin-odori consists of 23 people in total. A flag bearer, a dancer, a general, and a bow and arrow bearer. They are accompanied by flutes, drums, and, unusually, buglers. Each one uses a different mask, so there are 23 different types in total. Some are smiling, some are angry, and there is a lot of variety. The clothes are also different, but only the dancers wear white. The dancer raises both hands upward and brings them together, then dances as if jumping while looking up to the sky. It is a strange dance, but people call it the “Dance of Joy” because of its appearance. The Tojin-dance also marches through the town during the festival, giving performances from time to time. Over the course of two days, they visit about 300 houses and receive congratulatory gifts.
There is a museum in Wakebemachi 分部町, the birthplace of the dance, where you can see the masks and costumes at any time.

cf. http://www.searchnavi.com/~hp/tojin/eng/

Date: 16th August, every year
Location: Shiide 3, Kudoyama town, Ito destrict, Wakayama prefecture
Access: 5 minutes walk from Koyacho station (Nankai line).

A place called Kudoyama

There are two places where the entire mountain is lined with temples, making it a major religious city. Mount Koya 高野山 and Mount Hiei 比叡山.Both were built in the 10th century. Both are legacies that cannot be fully visited in one day (although they are still in operation).
At the foot of Mount Koya, there is a place called Kudoyama 九度山.
At the end of the 16th century, The Tokugawa clan, who were in power at the time, imprisoned the father and son of a warlord who fought against them here. This is such a place. It is deep in the mountains, and the surrounding area is still dotted with uninhabited stations. There is still a ogre dance here that is said to have a history of 600 years.

People performing the Ogre dance

A total of 11 people perform the ogre dance. In addition to the ogre, there are ten other people: one drummer, two flutes, seven singers, and one person who holds the drum. They are called the “ten men”. They are chosen from those who are 16 years old or older in the community. In the past, it was an honor just to be chosen. The chosen ones purify themselves in a nearby river and bring back three stones each. Then they go through a ritual and join the performance.
It is customary to keep the name of the ogre actor secret until the performance is over.

Performance

This is held as a festival of Itsukushima Shrine. At the appointed time, the group departs from the nearby Jizoji Temple, beating drums as they go. The ogre slowly moves forward, drawing a circle with a long stick in one hand. For every three beats of the drum, the ogre takes only one step forward. The path is about 30 meters long, so it takes about 30 minutes to complete the journey.
When they arrive at the precinct, the ogre is released from the restriction of the drums and is free to move around. Parents and children gather in the precinct, hoping to be touched by the ogre. It is said that if the ogre touches the child, the child will grow up in good health, and if the ogre touches the painful part, the pain will go away by the power of the ogre.

Eventually, the ten men leave the grounds, leaving only the ogre behind. The remaining ogre grieves, and even rampages through the precincts in anger. He then prays to the shrine for a good harvest and for rain. Why does the ogre suddenly start praying? Originally, several people, including an old man, appeared on stage to warn the ogre and ask for their prayers. However, due to lack of staff and the trend of the times, that part was cut off about 120 years ago.
Finally, the ogre goes on a rampage again and the festival ends.

Mount Koya

Nearby is one of Japan’s major religious centers, Koyasan 高野山, which was founded in the 10th century and has 19 important buildings. A ropeway takes you up to the town. There is a school and a bus service. Numerous temples line the streets, and at the far end is the largest sacred site, the Oku-no-in 奥の院. Even now, the monks who gather here make daily offerings to Kukai 空海, the founder of the temple, as if he were still alive. As you walk through the dense trees, you will feel as if your daily worries will disappear.

Date: the Friday through Sunday closest to the 25th of October
Location: Iga Ueno city, Mie prefecture
Access: From Osaka or Kyoto, take Kintetsu or JR to Iga. Take the Kintetsu or JR train from Osaka or Kyoto to Iga, then change to the Iga Line to Iga-Ueno. It takes about two and a half hours. There are also direct buses from Tokyo, Nagoya and Osaka.

Outline

Recently, “ninjas” have become overwhelmingly popular among visitors to Japan. The “Iga Ueno Tenjin Festival” is held every autumn in this ninja village. In this festival, floats called “danjiri” and masked parades proceed through the town. The festival is held for the Ueno Tenjin Shrine. It has a long history, although there is a record that the festival was revived in 1660, it is not clear what happened before that. In the past, the people of the town performed Noh, Kyogen and other entertainments, which were watched by the lords from the castle. It was not until 1802 that the castle took on its present form. Today, there are nine floats (danjiri) and a procession of ogres (Oni) parading through the town.

Schedule

All events begin at the shrine during September. People determine the order of the Danjiri.
On Friday, people pull out and decorate the Danjiri in each town, and at night turn on the lights and begin to play the music, heightening the festive atmosphere.
On Saturday, a procession of ogres takes place from 2:00 to 4:00 in the afternoon. The Danjiri floats start at 1:00 pm and cruise around the town until 4:00 pm. They return to the shrine, the four units are in series, except that they proceed separately from west to east.
On Sunday, the festival takes place in the morning and afternoon, with the oni (ogres) parade, followed by the danjiri parade, cruising through the town all day long.

Ogres procession

We cannot leave out the Oni parade. It is these demons that distinguish this festival from others and make it special. In all, about 100 demons walk. Sometimes the children don’t wear masks, but most use masks of some sort. There are many different types of masks, including traditional Noh and Kyogen masks as well as many unique masks. The procession is divided into two parts. The first is the part centered on the En no gyoja 役行者. The other part is centered on Minamoto no Tametomo 源為朝.

En no gyoja group

En no gyoja, whose real name is En no Ozunu 役小角, is a real person, active in the latter half of the 7th century, and is considered to be the founder of today’s Shugendo (Japanese mountain asceticism incorporating Shinto and Buddhist concept) . However, he is too much of a legend to be a mysterious figure. To begin with, even in the actual history books authorized by the country, there are descriptions of him using demons as his minions. Once upon a time, the first lord of this area suffered from eye disease in his later years. It is said to be a memorial to the time when shugenja (mountain ascetics) went to the holy land of Shugendo to pray for his recovery.

And the most famous of all are the “hyorotsuki oni (their legs are wobbly)”. They carry large objects on their backs and move left and right. Children will be amazed and adults will laugh. They are also meant to keep the spectators in line at the edge of the street.

Minamoto Tametomo group

The Tametomo Group is a procession led by Minamoto Tametomo. In the past, the samurai were largely divided into the Taira 平 and Minamoto 源 clans. Minamoto no Yoritomo 源頼朝 was the one who later opened the first samurai government. His uncle was Tametomo. He is also a man of many legends, and is said to have confronted the demons that appeared to him with impunity.

Ending

Iga-Ueno is an old castle town. Just walking around the town has its own charm. There is also a ninja museum nearby, where you can watch ninja shows. Whether before or after the festival, it is a good idea to experience the ninja.

cf. https://www.ueno-tenjin-matsuri.com/lang/en/ about festival official sight
https://igakanko.net/?p=173
https://www.iganinja.jp/?page_id=837 about Ninja Museum