Date: 15 July every year (Date fixed)

Location: Suwa shrine, Hakone town Miyagino 719, Ashigara county, Kanagawa prefecture

Access: from Odawara (JR) or Hakone Yumoto (Odakyu line or Hakone Tozan line) take Bus (bound for Tougendai 桃源台), at Miyagino Eigyosho 宮城野営業所

Introduction

　In the past few years, the number of overseas tourists visiting Japan has really increased. In the past, the number of visitors to Japan was so small that it is almost impossible to say that Japan was not interested in the tourism industry; the number of visitors finally reached 5 million in 2003, but it took about 11 years to reach 10 million. Recently, however, the government has made a serious effort to increase the number of visitors to Japan, and the number of visitors has reached w14 million in just three years.

　In Japan, there is a tourist route known as the Golden Route that connects Tokyo, Hakone, Mt. Fuji, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka.
One of them, Hakone, is known as a hot spring resort in Japan, and is also a destination for school trips in elementary and junior high schools from neighboring areas. It is also one of the most important stations on the Tokaido 東海道 Highway, connecting Tokyo and Kyoto. The Tokugawa Shogunate, which was based in Edo (present-day Tokyo), designated Hakone as the final defense point to stop enemies attacking from the west, and it was also famous for the rigid checkpoint. However, even in such Hakone, lion dances are quietly preserved: at Sengokuhara (仙石原) in March, at Kintoki (金時) Shrine in May, and at Miyagino (宮城野) in July.

　These shishimai (lion dance) are called “Yutate” lion dances and are very rare events in Japan. “Yutate” is a ceremony, in which a large cauldron is set up in the festival site to boil water, a shimenawa rope to create a boundary surrounded around the cauldron, the surrounding area is decorated to welcome the gods, and the purified water offered to the gods. At the end of the ritual, one of the Shinto priests dips a sacred staff with strips of paper and bamboo leaves attached in the hot water and sprinkles it around.

Going to the shrine

　This time, I took a bus from Odawara. Odawara was not only the gateway to Hakone, but also a stronghold of the feudal lords who once ruled the Kanto region, and you can see the castle from the station (although it is a restored one). However, most surprisingly, almost all the passengers were tourists from overseas. There were only a couple of Japanese passengers, and all the passengers on the bus spoke English and French. We Japanese felt small. The bus enters the mountain road halfway up the winding road. When you get off the bus, there are banners announcing the Shishimai everywhere, so it’s easy to find your way. After passing through a residential area, you walk up a gentle slope for about ten minutes. When you see a bridge with a red railing, the shrine is just around the corner. There are two paths, called Otoko-zaka (the slope for men) and Onna-zaka (the slope for women) respectively. The slope for men is steeper and the slope for women is gentler, but either way, the climb is inevitable.

　From there, the shrine is at the top of the last long flight of stairs. It is the height of hot summer. Summer in Japan is hot and humid. The sun is shining and the heat will make you feel exhausted. However, when I reached the shrine, one of the staff of the ceremony said, “Thank you for your hard work,” and handed me a sports drink. This was a nice present.

Ceremony

The time was 2 p.m. The event had just begun. It begins inside the shrine. There are spectator seats on both sides facing the main shrine. The left side is covered with chairs, and the right side is covered with blue sheets. All other areas are separated by ropes, making it a sacred area. In front of the left side of the room, kindergarteners are accompanied by their teachers. In front of the main shrine, the lion’s head and the names of today’s performers are displayed. In fact, the biggest difference between this one in Miyagino and the other one in Sengokuhara is that the main performers are junior high school students. And all the adults play supporting roles.

Before the ceremony

The lion dance begins at 2:00 p.m., but it actually starts on January 7. On this day, the first rehearsal is said to begin. And the real practice starts a week before. In the evening of the day before, everyone gathers at the shrine and goes to the waterfall to bathe in water to purify themselves. This is repeated 12 times, and then at midnight a dance called “Tsuji-jime” is performed at several places in the village. This is a spell to ward off evil spirits. At dawn, when the dance is over, they go to the twelve designated shrines to pay their respects. Only after all of this is done, the lion dance comes back to the shrine.

Down into precinct

　After dedicating the dance inside the main shrine for about half an hour, the lion finally descended towards the shrine grounds. The lion wears a large curtain and has four legs, one in the front and one in the back. This is the basic form. In some cases, the performer in front holds the head with his or her hands, in another case, the performer wears it on his or her head.

　In the lion dance, every movement is strictly regulated. For example, the number of steps to be taken is fixed, and those who stand in front and those who stand behind must walk in unison through the shrine grounds.　

　Eventually, those behind step out of the curtain and roll the curtain to ease the burden in front. The performer in the back is slightly older than the one in the front. It is as if the older person is watching over the younger one. In this way, the lion stands alone and tours the small shrine (which is made of stone) within the shrine.

　At first they go to a small shrine to receive the “Gohei” (a wooden ritual wand with pair of white zigzag paper streamers) and repeat the same movements as before. After that, the lion takes a bell and a sword. The number of steps at this time seems to be all fixed, and the boy behind the lion counts “one, two, three” as they walks.

　The imbalance between the stern lion’s head and slender limbs. The boys’ expressions are still young, but they are all serious. For them, this is a once-in-a-lifetime moment. The people involved, and the audience, watch over them tenderly. The ceremony takes a short break.

Ceremony Part 2

　Three o’clock in the afternoon. After a short pause, the lions stand in pairs again, this time going around the large cauldron. The people concerned in the ceremony sprinkled salt. The climax was approaching. Here’s something to add, salt is not just a seasoning. Salt means to ward off evil, people often use it in various rituals. For example, when people come back from a funeral, it is customary for those of the house to sprinkle salt on those who return before they enter the house. There is also a belief that if salt is sprinkled in front of the house, it will become a purified barrier, preventing evil to enter. In sumo, one of Japan’s most popular sports, it is common to see sumo wrestlers sprinkling large amounts of salt. Since sumo originally originated as a Shinto ritual, this custom still remains.

　After a series of walks around the cauldron, the lion stands finally all alone. The performers in the back are completely out from the lion and the curtain is rolled up. The complete lion man, with his head ia lion, but his body human, stands here.

Offering “Yubana”

　The lion, now alone, goes through the final series of rituals. By this time, the fire in the cauldron is blazing hot more and more and the water is bubbling and boiling. At first the lion man takes a sword. The sword is used to purify the water in the cauldron. The next is the “Gohei”. He puts it into the boiling water and stirs it. The surrounding people chant and watch. The lion performer feels the heat and frantically performs, grasping the lion’s head with his own mouth

　Finally, he takes the bamboo leaves and goes to the shrine first. And finally, at last, he sprinkles boiling water (yubana 湯花) around as much as he can. The hot water (yubana) falls like a cloud mist over the heads of the audience, and the air around them is filled with steam. Strangely enough, nobody feels the heat when they catch the hot water. It is said that if people are covered by it, they will have good health for a year.

Final

　After this, the lion once again turns into a four-legged creature and performs a trick, and the whole process in precinct is over. At this point, many of the audience begin to prepare to leave. But the ritual still continues inside the main shrine. They perform the lion dance again.
　

　It is all over at 4:00 PM. The heat is still on.
“Phew! I’m finally done!”
These were the words that came out of the boys’ mouths. That’s what they must have honestly felt after the long, long ceremony that started in January. They had been forced to live a life of inconvenience due to their devotional purification, and had endured rigorous training. They must have felt a lot of tension. However, after completing the ceremony, they have grown stronger and stronger, and will pass it on to the next generation, just as their predecessors have been protecting them for hundreds of years.

　

　Don’t worry, there are plenty of buses to take you home. Just to Hakone-yumoto. This is the gateway to Hakone, so the town is full of souvenir shops. From there, we take the regular JR line home.
However, if you can, I recommend the Romance Car express train between Shinjuku and Hakone, although it is a bit more expensive. The first carriage has a special structure where the driver’s seat is on top of the train in order to realize the all-glass windows. It’s a great way to experience the feeling of traveling. It is also a favorite of children. I was no exception, but I have yet to ride on one for various reasons. These days, I feel that I should have at least one longing left. I ignore the voices that say, “You don’t really have money, do you?”

Information: https://www.hakone.or.jp/5725

　

Date: 18, September every year
Location: Sakanoshita 4-9, Kamakura city, Kanagawa prefecture (Goryo shrine)
Access: From Kamakura station, take Enoshima line (Enoden) to Hase station and take a five-minutes walk. Kamakura is about 1 hour from Tokyo by JR line.

There are many “Yokai” in Japan.

　In Japan, there are things called “Yokai”. Many people often translate it as “spirits”. This is not a mistake. However, since Japan is basically a polytheistic country, people sometimes perceive the deities as “spirits” as well. So what is a “yokai”? If you look at the letters (if you know “Kanji”), it means “something strange” or “something suspicious”. This given name is relatively new, and people originally called them “oni (ogre)”. The word “oni” comes from the old word “onu,” which means “hidden thing”. The people believed that there was another world besides the one they lived in, and that those who lived in that world sometimes appeared in front of the people (for example, at night). They also believed that wars and droughts were all their doings. Otherwise, people could not cope with the absurdity of everyday life. In addition, the idea that objects become monsters after a hundred years of use arose, and the variety increased even more. Already around the 7th century, paintings of oni were drawn. As the spread of Buddhism progressed, paintings of ogres began to appear more frequently to teach the lesson that people who did not believe in Buddhism would go to hell.

https://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/s-exhibition/special/10309/%E7%89%B9%E5%88%A5%E5%B1%95%E3%80%8C%E5%A4%A7%E5%A6%96%E6%80%AA%E5%B1%95%E3%80%80%E5%9C%9F%E5%81%B6%E3%81%8B%E3%82%89%E5%A6%96%E6%80%AA%E3%82%A6%E3%82%A9%E3%83%83%E3%83%81%E3%81%BE%E3%81%A7%E3%80%8D/

　However, it was during the Edo period (17th C~early half of 19th C) that “yokai” were most developed. In this period, people enjoyed various kinds of yokai as objects of entertainment and also used them as tools to criticize the government. This is how “yokai” continues to be used today. People say that when they feel insecure about the times, a “yokai” boom occurs.

　This is how Japanese people have come to know yokai. In the Heian period (794-1185), people often met a procession of yokai at night.
There is an event in Kamakura that is evoking the procession of yokai. That is the “Menkake Procession 面掛行列”.

　The place is Goryo 御霊 Shrine in Kamakura. Kamakura is one of the leading tourist destinations, known as one of the three ancient capitals of Japan. Among the many shrines and temples, few people usually visited this shrine, and it is a quiet place that seems to have been forgotten. But not every September 18. The area around the shrine is closed to traffic, and many people line the streets. The reason is to see the strange procession.

Origin of the parade

　The reason why this day is in September is because it is said to be the anniversary of the death of Kamakura Gongoro, the god enshrined in this shrine. Gongoro was a warlord who was active in the 11th century, and was known for his bravery and courage. In Kabuki, he appears as hero. But the procession has nothing to do with Gongoro. There is a record that the procession was originally held at Hachiman Shrine, the center of Kamakura. According to the legend, Yoritomo, the founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, got a woman other than his wife pregnant. Some say that the family joined the procession to protect Yoritomo, while others say that they were allowed to join the procession on this day only without formalities. In any case, this family was of low status, so they wore masks to hide their faces. However, because these are just legends, no one knows exactly what the truth is.

Going to see

　Kamakura is a small town. It is possible to walk from Kamakura station to the shrine, as it is only about 2 km. The surrounding area is lined with Zen temples, and the ocean is located nearby. If you want to take the train, transfer from JR Kamakura Station to the Enoden 江ノ電 train right next door, which takes about 5 minutes. Get off at Hase 長谷 Station. On weekends and holidays, it is as crowded as Shinjuku Station, the busiest station in Japan, but since Hase Station is the closest to the great Buddha (Daibutsu), many people get off the train, so don’t worry. The procession departs from the shrine and goes back and forth along “Hoshi-noi-dori 星の井通り” just in front of it. It’s a modest distance, so it’s easy to find a spot without rushing.

Procession

　When it was time to go, the sound of flutes and drums would be able to reach us. Finally, the procession begins. The masks don’t come instantly. Things that you can’t really understand unless you ask them about their origins are coming one after the other. The person leading the way looked like an Edo-period official. The people are carrying the portable shrine (mikoshi) quietly without any vigorous shouting. The musical accompaniment was also somewhat elegant. Children walked in with what looked like red streamers attached to the end of long sticks. People are wearing kimonos and hakama (Both are ancient Japanese folk costumes). The scenery is reminiscent of the illusion of an old samurai procession. Of course, no one has ever seen the real thing, but there are many reenactments of daimyo processions at festivals around the country.

In the meantime, the tengu-faced Sarutahiko (*1) finally arrives. It is a common sight to see him leading a festival procession, since legend has it that he led the way at the time of Ninigi’s descent in mythology(*2). In his tall geta (Japanese wooden clogs) and long ”Shakujo (monks staff made from metal) attire, he walks leisurely with a sound ting-a-ling.
*1 https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/06/07/the-most-detailed-japanese-traditional-mask/
*2 https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mychology-and-history/

　The lion comes next, but instead of wearing a mask like a normal lion, it is placed on top of the head. It’s a little different in every way. Finally, in the middle of the procession, a group of oddly shaped people wearing the masks we were looking for arrived. The excitement of the people is at its peak. Dressed in matching outfits, the “yokai” parade through the streets in broad daylight. Ten in all. Each of them is as unique as the other members of the group. They paraded through the streets without looking at anyone in the eye at all.

Masks

From the top to the bottom, there’s “Jijii 爺 (old man),”Oni 鬼 (ogre)”, “Igyo 異形 (variant)”, “Hananaga 鼻長 (long nose)”, “Karasu tengu 烏天狗 (crow billed Tengu)”, “Okina 翁 (aged man)”, “Hifuki-otoko 火吹き男 (fire breathing man), “Fukuroku 福禄 (prosperity and long life)” and “Toriage 取り上げ (midwife)”, “Okame おかめ (woman)” who is the main characters of the day.

　Why these masks were chosen is a mystery. Still, it is a strange sight to see again and again. The specters walked the streets as if they owned the place, while the humans played a supporting role. They pass by in silence. However, when I look at them like this, I feel as if I can hear their voices.

　They go to Hoshinoi Street and come back again. But the madness doesn’t last long. People don’t allow them to occupy the town all day long. After about 20 minutes, they return to the shrine. People follow them, trying to bask in as much of the afterglow as possible.

　The portable shrine is quickly dismantled and the oddly-looking group disappears. They were kind enough to put their masks back on and take pictures with us. But that was only for a short time. The lion’s head returns to its original position, and daily life returns.

　The masks are in the collection of the Gallery of Treasures, so you can see them if you wish. But, they are just quiet and silent.

Reference: https://youkosonihon.com/2018/03/17/menkake-gyouretsu-menkake-parade-kamakura/
Contact information: http://www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp/visitkamakura/en/
　　　　　　　　　　

Date: 4th Sunday, April (Spring festival) & 4th Sunday, October (Autumn festival)
Location: Honjo 1-1562, Ashikaga city, Tochigi prefecture
Access: From Tokyo, take the JR Ueno-Tokyo Line to Ueno. From there, change to the Joban Line and go to Kuki. From there, take the Tobu Railway to Ashikaga-shi Station. It is about 4 km from there. About two hours from Tokyo.

*This article is based on my visit in April, 2016.

introduction

This time, we had the same guides as before. If you want to know who they are, please read this article.

Ashikaga city’s history

*Actually, it turned out to be a terrible mistake. This is the author’s actual experience.

Let’s go to shrine

*The actual start was at 9:00.
It’s no use crying over spiled milk. Let’s get ourselves together.

8th program “Kanayamahiko”

*The following dialogues of the characters are only imaginary. The actual Kagura is performed entirely in pantomime.

While this was going on, Kanayamahiko left the stage, as if he finally had a sword that he was satisfied with.

9th program “Ebisu”

*Here’s a little additional explanation. Ebisu is the deity of fishing and also the god of prosperity. He is known for always carrying his fishing gear and a sea bream.

*Ebisu face means smiling face. It is often used to describe the smiling faces that people make when something good happens, especially in business.

Intermission

10th program “Daikoku”

*This is a fact. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all those involved.

“Inari and White foxes”

“Hachiman”

Ending “Sanjin”

After this, I heard they went for a walk around Ashikaga City.

reffer→Ashikaga City Tourist Association site

　It is impossible to talk about folk performing arts in Japan without discussing “Shishimai”. Although Shishi means lion, this is not a real lion. The original source is said to have come from India, so it is said that a real lion had been an object of worship there. However, as it spread throughout the West, China, Korea and Nepal, it became an imaginary spiritual animal. Some say that Chinese emperors had lions, so it’s possible that they knew about the real lion up to that point.

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　収蔵作品詳細／唐獅子図屏風 – 宮内庁 (kunaicho.go.jp)

Date: Sunday closest to July 25 (Most often the fourth Sunday of the month)

Place: Yagumo shrine, 2-902 Sawai, Okutama town, Tokyo

Access: A few minutes walk from Sawai Station on the JR Oume Line. It takes about one and a half hours to get to Sawai from either Tokyo or Shinjuku.

Shishimai (lion dance)’s history

　It is said to have been introduced to Japan around the 6th century, at the same time as Buddhism. In 752, when the Great Buddha was built at Todaiji (東大寺) Temple as a national project, the lion dance was performed. It is said that half of the population of the time was involved in the construction of the Great Buddha, and about 10,000 people gathered for the unveiling of the statue. It is said that this is how the lion dance spread across the country.

　However, there are various routes as to how it had been introduced to Japan, and thus a variety of lion dances have been born. It is said that there are now about 8,000 of them active.
Shishimai can be divided into two main groups: Ise-Daikagura (伊勢太神楽) style and Furyu (風流) style. The Ise-style dance is performed by two people, while the Furyu-style dance is performed by one person holding a small drum called Kakko. However, it is so diverse that there is naturally a mix of these as well. The Ise-Daikagura-style is distributed in western Japan, while the Furyu-style is mostly distributed in eastern Japan.

Introduction of the Lion dance of Sawai

　This time, this site is going to introduce Shishimai in Tokyo. The main style in Kanto region (including Tokyo) is three units of “one-man shishi dancers” comprising one group.
　Nevertheless, there is a variety of lion dances in Kanto, and even in Tokyo there is diversity. This time, I would like to take a look at one from the Okutama area first. The Okutama area may be the closest vacation spot for those living in Tokyo. It has ravines, waterfalls, mountains, and scenic beauty. It can be reached from the center of Tokyo in about an hour by train. An area that many people visit in summer to cool off. There are groups that practice canoeing on the river, and many groups enjoy hiking and camping. It is precisely because of such an area that the cohesion of the community is rather strong and there are many performing arts that have been passed down.

　As we pass Ome (青梅), we start to see mountains around us, and the atmosphere starts to change. As most of the passengers are backpackers, the Okutama (奥多摩) area is just around the corner. There are reasonable hiking trails, mountain climbing trails, and ravines around the area, and the passengers get off at their desired destinations. When you get off the train, you find yourself in a quiet village surrounded by summer mountains, where the bustle of the city has disappeared. In the middle of the village, there is a small shrine. It looks just like an ordinary house. You would feel as if you are visiting a neighbor’s farmhouse. It’s Sawai Yagumo (沢井八雲) Shrine. This is the stage for today’s lion dance. As you walk up the stairs, you find a sandy stage about 10 meters square, surrounded by the shrine in front and audience seats on either side. The lion dance starts at 8:30 in the morning. But in the morning, the main activity is walking around the village. They walk around street by street performing their dance. This is not just to present themselves in public, but to celebrate the prosperity of the village and drive away the evil spirits.

　After lunch, they return to the shrine around 1:30 to perform a variety of acts. There are three lions. Two males and one female. The male lions are the elder and the younger. And four Hanagasa join them. This is the basic style. There are many theories as to why this style was adopted, but here in Sawai, it is said to represent the sun, moon, and stars. In Sawai, it is said to represent the sun, moon, and stars, and the four flower hats represent the four heavenly kings who protect the Buddha in Buddhism. The three lions are called ”Oh (elder)” lion, “Waka” (young) lion, and “Me (female)” lion.

　Hira-gurui 平狂い

　The first performance is called “Hira-gurui”. In lion dance, a violent dance is often called “Kurui (mad dance)”. As the name suggests, this is also an intense dance. The age range of performers is wide, and this basic dance is usually performed by junior high to high school students. However, the ground below is soft sand. It’s like dancing on the beach, and we can imagine how exhausting it is.

　It’s the height of summer. It’s hot. There is an electric fan running in front of the building, but it doesn’t help much for cooling. So, if there’s a pause in the middle or at the end of the dance, there are people who fan the dancers.

　Kurenai-gakari 紅がかり

　The next step is “Kurenai (deep red) gakari”. The lion dance often has a performance with this name. The word “kakari” seems to be used in the sense of relating to or showing interest in the subject. As the name implies, three rogues with deep red cloths come out and play with the lion. The lion’s interest in the red reminded me of a Spanish bullfight.

　During the breaks, the famous local sake “Sawanoi” is served, and pickles are passed around. It was all very thoughtful. It doesn’t matter if you take it or not. In the plaza below the shrine, simple meals and beer are sold at a reasonable price, but if you want to eat well, it is best to bring your own food. There are no big stores or convenience stores nearby.

　Tachi-gurui 太刀狂い

　As the name suggests, a lion is entangled with a sword (Tachi means sword). Most of the swords are imitation, here they use imitation swords too. However, it was just barely enough to shave off 20%. They are almost serious about it. That’s why there is a sense of urgency in the air, as if a slight mistake could be made. It looks as if a lion and a man are engaged in a tense battle. As in any other performance, this one requires special training. The power of the lion dance can be seen in such a way.

　Sao-gakari 竿掛かり

　The lion dance sometimes has a representation of life. The same is true of this program. A pole (sao) is passed in the center. The lions are interested in the pole. But they are too scared to go over it. They try again and again, but each time they run back. They return with their hands behind their backs, as if they are expressing their fear with their whole body. And it is the female lion who is the first to cross the pole. The performance varies from each group of lion dance , but it is usually the female lion who is the first to cross the pole. And the elder lion is the one who hesitates until the end. It’s as if women are quicker to make decisions in life, and men who have too much stuff they don’t need are slower to adapt to change.

　Mejishi-gura 雌獅子蔵

　

　There is a performance in which a female lioness is hiding in every lion dance. I’m even wondering if that’s the reason why there are three lions two male lions and a female lioness. Simply put, it is a love triangle.

It starts out with the setting where the lions are on a journey. Eventually, the fog gets thicker and only the lionesses disappear. The two males panic and look around for her. They decide to split up and search for her. So far, there are no problems. After this, the young lion finds the female lioness first, but does not tell the elder lion. The elder lion is desperately searching for her. Eventually, he finds the two lions.
He says, “Oh, I didn’t know they were here…
Naturally, he was very angry. The young lion doesn’t even apologize, and a fierce battle ensues. This fight is one of the highlights of the story.
　

While they were fighting, the fog thickened again and the lioness disappeared. This is no time to fight. Once again, the two animals split up to look for her.
This time, the elder lion finds the lioness first. If you get hit, hit back. The same thing happens again.
　

　This fog thickening of fog is expressed by the densely packed Hanagasa hats on all sides. And finally the hanagasa return to their original positions, and the lions dance together as if nothing had happened.
I always wonder. Why did the old people create this kind of performance? Is it a warning or an irony? In any case, the person who created the original must have been quite a connoisseur.

Gokito 御祈祷

　The final performance is called “purification. At the end of the day, evil spirits are driven away, the place is cleansed, and the dance is concluded.

　

It ends at five in the evening. The Okutama area is a little cooler than the city center. The lion dance depicted on the back of stuff is dancing proudly. And so, one by one, summer comes to an end. You may look back at the road your came from, feeling as if the sound of lion dance drums and flutes are still echoing, but all you see is a quiet village that has regained its daily life. The fog in the mountains seemed to have lifted. The day is long. Let’s go home slowly.

Date:　　 2nd & 3rd May
Location: Ome city, Tokyo prefecture
Access: It takes over 1 hour from Shinjuku by JR Chuo line

Tama tourist official https://at-tama.tokyo/lang_en/tourismtopics/ome-city-ome-grand-festival/

The feature of Japan Festival

　Do you know how many festivals there are in Japan? In one theory, it is said there are three hundred thousands. In Japan, if you ask a Japanese what is your image of festival, most people would answer “Mikoshi” or “Dashi (or Yatai). An exemplary “Mikoshi” festival is “the Sanja festival” at Asakusa or “the Kanda Myojin festival” at Kanda in Tokyo, and an exemplary “Dashi” festival is “the Gion festival” in Kyoto or “the Nebuta festival” in Aomori prefecture.
　*What is “Mikoshi” and “Dashi”? Both a means of transportation for a deity. Dashi is no different from Mikoshi in terms of being a vehicle. Mikoshi is a portable shrine and people carry it on their shoulders. Dashi is a float decorated with various objects for a festival.

Departure

　We can often see masked characters on Dashi in festivals. So, this time, we will go and see the Ome festival in Tokyo with our guides. Oh, where have they gone? Hey, it’s your turn!

*Who are they? If you want to know about them, please confer the article https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/04/26/part-2iidama-shrine-daidai-kagura/

Ome is a town full of retro culture

　Ome city is located in western Tokyo and is the major gateway of excursion into the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National park.

　Ome is usually a calm town. There are still quite a number of vintage houses and many vintage film billboards. But only during the two days of the festival, this town changes.

Welcome to Festival

Along the street

Mask collection

Worship at shrine

How long is the festival?

The festival is still going on…

*Reffer https://www.japanistry.com/event/ome-grand-festival/

Date; 3rd April
Location; Kamiyamakawa 160, Yuki city, Ibaraki prefecture
Access; about 7 kilometers from Yuki 結城 station. To get to Yuki from Tokyo, you take Ueno-Tokyo line(JR line, bound for Utsunomiya. It takes 1.5 hours), and change at Oyama, for Mito line (JR). It takes 15 minutes.

Introduction

1.”Dance of Gogyo”

2.”Sarutahiko”

3. “An archer”

4. “The old man holding a sword”

5 & 6. “Inari (man and woman)”

7. “Rice harvesting”

8. “Ebisu”

9. “dance of Uzume”

10. “Tajikarao~Amano Iwato-biraki”

11. Ending~”Ohyamatsumi”

Date; 　 1st Sunday April, every year
Location; Hirose town 2-2-8, Maebashi city, Gunma prefecture
Access; 　It takes 20 minutes from Maebashi station (JR) on foot
Maebashi is 1 and half hours from Tokyo

　This time, we will introduce “Iidama shrine Daidai kagura”.
　This Kagura event is held at the Iidama shrine every spring. “Daidai” is a word usually used in the event in the Kanto area and means “bigger and bigger”. Tears ago, kagura was sometimes held for people to get their wishes. The stronger the people’s wish was, the bigger the scale of the kagura became, because they paid a lot of money. So, the name of the kagura became “Dai kagura” from merely “kagura”. Dai means big. Finally, it is said to have come to be called “Daidai” kagura, according to some views.

　This period (from end of March to the begining of April, about two weeks) is one of the best season in Japan. Many cherry blossoms bloom all at once and Japan is covered with the color of pale pink. So, if you go to this event, you would see beautiful scenery all over this area.

　This kagura is performed at lunchtime from about 11 am to 3 or 4 pm every year.

　*This article was written from the writer’s experience visiting in 2017.

　This time once again two men (Modoki and Sarutahiko) seem to be ready to guide you.

　20 minutes later.

First half~ritual part

　At first, two deities come in. “Sarutahiko“

　Next program “Four sieties“. Four men without mask are dancing slowly.

　Next “Uzume or Okame”. One dancer is holding Gohei (staff with plaited paper streamers in Shinto) and a bell comes on stage. THe feature of this dance is a slipping like movement.

　Intermission from 12:20 pm to 1:00 pm.
　Next program, “Tajikarao“. He has a staff like a shield.

　Next program; “Ameno Koyane“. One person wearing white old man mask comes on the stage. He is holding a bell and a white fan.

　Second half~comedy part

　At 1:30 pm. “Tanemaki”. It means sowing seeds. A fox appeared following an woman holding rice plant.

　A fox is jumping crouching position. This is a popular image of a fox in kagura. A woman gave some rice plant and has left. Following, two men appear. They both wear a yellow cloth and one man wears a red towel on his head.

　Unexpectedly, he is competent. After being taught how to plant form the fox, he started working easily and joyfully. When he is planting seeds just like dancing, another man comes in. He wears a yellow cloth and yellow towel on his head. He is bringing a big basket. After he puts the basket down, a man with red towel begind to teach him how to plant the seeds.

　*Following the conversation is Modok’s fictional transration.

　While they were doing this, one woman appears. She wears a cooking coat. She is called “Okame” or “Otafuku”. She begins to take care this and that.

　Following Okame, an old man appears.

　Nevertheless, the Inari did almost nothing. He just smoked a long pipe while looking over spring scenes.

　After all, Inari and Okame left. Two of Modokis begin putting rice into a big straw bag.

　Two Modokis managed to finish. Next, they have to bring it.

　Red finished tying. Yellow wants to stand but cannot. Red helps him to carry the rope.

　Then, fox comes out again.

　They are left finally with the fox. This program takes over 30 minutes.
　Next program “Daikoku’s mallet”.
　Daikoku is a deity of fortune. He always has a little mallet. The little mallet is a famous staff which people imagine as soon as people hear the name “Daikoku”. Daikoku swings the mallet, then a lot of treasures appear immediately.

　Daikoku gave a bell, mirror, and the mallet at last and he has left the stage.

　Modoki swung the mallet and a strange being has appeared. It wears an all-pink clothes and has a pink face.

　Anyway, modoki ties the monkey-like creature to a pillar. Modoki starts dancing in front of the monkey-like creature but it has vanished without noticing.

　At last, Daikoku, Modoki, and the monkey-like creature drive away the ogre by throwing beans and all the cast have left.

　”Zougi and Taihou” Two deities talk to each other, and wish for happiness.

　”Kagutuchi“

　The last program. The blue face comes out holding a bell and a plate. He dances and throws many sweets or rice cakes and the program is over.

　to be continued to Part 3

　Toiday, I’ll introduce 4 kafuras which is held in the most beautiful season of blossoming cherries within 2 hours from Tokyointroduce.

introduce four kaguras (Japnanese traditional folk performing art) in cherry blossoms blooming season

　If you ask some Japanese which season is the best to visit, most people will answer that it is for the blooming cherry blossoms.
　In this season, cherry blossoms begin to cover Japan starting from the south region and moving up north for two months. The bolssoming status in each region is reported on TV or radio. Many people go out, dressed a new in spring clothes upon hearing such.
　The mountains, the rivers, the towns all views change from dark color to pale pink.

　Through out history, people have loved cherry blossoms. One famous poet composed the poem (waka 和歌) which reads “Hopefully, I will die under the blossoms in the spring time.” And another poet said;
“If it were not for/ cherry blossoms in the world/ How peaceful and calm/ The heart in spring could be.”
　confer ; http://dharmaechoes.blogspot.com/2010/04/heart-in-spring.html
　The cherry trees has had strong influence on Japanese lifestyles. The cherry trees represent, so to speak, Japanese culture itself. In this season, if you see traditional kagura 神楽, you can grasp the whole Japanese culture in one day.

　The following 4 kaguras will be taken up here today. Every kagura is held in April.

・Fuji sengen shrine Daidai Kagura on the 1st Fujioka city, Gunma prefecture
・Iidama shrine Daidai Kagura on the 2nd Maebashi city, Gunma prefecture
・Yamanashi oka shrine Daidai Kagura on the 4th Fuefuki city, Yamanashi prefecture
・Kamiyamakawa Daidai Kagura on the 5th Yuki city, Ibaraki prefecture

　I guess that each kagura is worth watching. You can feel Japanese culture, besides you can get a lot of good luck fortune. THis is not metaphor. Of course, you can get a mystical feeling in a shrine. Moreover, you can get many “good luck” items. This is why “mochimaki” is held while kagura’s at all these shrines. What is “mochimaki” ? Please read the following text if you wish know more about it.

　These two people seem ready to guide you, this time. Then, could you two introduce yourselves, please ?

　Well, let’s go to watch kagura with them.

1. Fuji-sengen shrine Daidai kagura

Date; 1st, April
Location; Fujioka town 1152, Fujioka city, Gunma prefecture
Access; 10-minutes walk from Fujioka 藤岡 station (JR line), To get to Fujilka from Tokyo, you take Ueno-Tokyo line (JR line, bound for Takasaki), and change at Kurakano 倉賀野 for Hachiko line 八高線. It takes about 2 hours.

　*This article is written based on the experience when the writer visited the place in 2016. The program procedures are basically the every year.

　The precinct is wide. Main hall (Hon-den 本殿) is at the center. This building is on a hill which overlooks the view of whole precinct. This hill is old grave. This kagura-den 神楽殿 (hall for playing kagura) is right in front of the main hall. This building has two stories, the stage is on the second floor. You can watch from under the hall or from the main hall. which is a little away.
　The kagura starts at 11:30 am on schedule.

　First progarm is “Omoikane“. The player white cloth dances alone, holding a bell and staff of pleased paper stream.

　Second program is “two Koyanes“. Two players are on the stage. They were white and black mask of old men. They dance bisymmetrically with paper streamer and bells, too.

　Third program is “three deities of Sumiyoshi“. Three players appear on the stage who each wear cloth of different colors, white and yellow. They dance symmetrically with great skill amis falling of paper of pale pink prtals.

　Every program is short which lasts within 10~15 minutes.
　Toward the end of this program, people gather around the kagura-den.

　Many people appered on the stage, and began to throw many things.

　After the ceremony of mochinage, the program starts again.
　Next program is “Miko mai“. “Miko” is a shrine maiden consecrated to deity. Miko-mai is a type of dance performed by “miko”. The way to dance is different in every region. Here, four elementary school girls are performing. This is shorter than other programs which lasts within 5 minutes.

　”Sarutahiko“. One player weares red and long-high nose mask and holds a bell and long sword in his hands.

　”Miko-dance” again.

　”Iwatobiraki” →please refer to “Reference”→”Japanese mythology”
　One player wears black clothes red “hakama” and holds gold folding fan. “Hakama” is Japanese skirt for formal wear. He is deity named “Tajikarao 手力男”. He plays the role of removing “Iwato”. In this kagura, a blackboard represent it. He takes it off, exposing a little girl traditional wear of “miko”. She represents “Amaterasu”.

　After the first player leaves, “Miko-mai” plays again. And two players wearing black and white clothes and mask of old man bisymmetrically. At last, the first player “Tajikarao” appears again.

　At last, mochinage ceremony is held again, and there is a lunch break. It is about 20 minutes.

Second half

　”A sword dance” One player has a mask of surprising and long hair. He walks powerfully swinging a sword.

　”Ryujin (deity of dragon)“

　Mochinage again.

　”Hachiman” This is a deity of battle and war. He drive out evil spirits to shoot a bow.

　”Ebisu“

　Ebisu finally caught a sea bream as expected and got off.
　Finally, people were throwing sweets splendidly and all programs ended. It was 5 pm.

Ending

　to be continue to vol. 2

Date：　　　1st January, 14th February, 10th April, 10th October, and day of “Tori” in December, every year
Location： Washinomiya shrine Washinomiya, Kuki city, Saitama prefecture
How to get there： It takes 10 minutes from Washinomiya station (Tobu Isezaki line)

　※This kagura is consisted of 12 programs.

　※This kagura is one of 35 an important Intangible Folk Cultural Heritage by Japanese national government.

Introduction

　This kagura is called “the source of Kanto kagura” (Kanto is located in center of Honshu which is main island of Japan, and is the generic name of seven prefectures). In addition, this is one of the country designation important intangible cultural asset which there is 35.
　”Sada shinno” originally started in Shimane prefecture. A Shinto priest of Sada shrine learned Noh in Kyoto about the beginning of 17th Century, and made a new kagura (so called Sada Shinno) baced on the Noh style. This kagura is known for a distinctive element. That’s the dancer is holding thing (bell, sacred staff with cut paper (heisoku 幣束), or a sakaki leaf and so on). This style of kagura started to be called “Izumo style ” and spread out in the whole country before long. This shrine is where Izumo style was accepted first. So it is called “the source of Kanto kagura”.
　But the first document of the kagura in this shrine was recorded in about the middle of 13th century. We don’t know whether this kagura is the same kagura of today.

　I went to Washinomiya shrine on 1st January, 2015.
　Kuki city is located in Saitama orefecture, population of about 150,000. It is not very big town. It takes about 1 hour from Tokyo by Ueno-Tokyo lune (JR), changing at Kuki to Tobu line, next station being Washinomiya station.
　Washinomiya shrine is about a 10 minute-walk from Washinomiya station. We cross a red bridge on the way to the shrine. It like a cnnection between the sacred place and the regular world.

　The shrine became a holy ground of animation films in these days. so we can see many persons who wear costumes of animation characters. We can find a middle-aged man who puts on a blond wig wearing sailor uniform (high school girls style ) and skirt among them. You guess that it is quite a surreal scene. Even if it is not so, this shrine is the core of faith in this area. The number of people that gathered exceeded 400,000 in there days. The shrine is quiet in usual times, but only for three days, it becomes really crowded.

First half

　On those days, people make a long lines to pray, I passed by them and ran to the hall (kagura-den) where kagura was being performed.

　the kagura was going to start about 10 or 10:30. When I arrived at about 11:00. The kagura had already started. The kagura-den is front of the Hon-den (main hall). So many people were there, but nobody was looking at the kagura. The audience seemed to be no more than 20 persons.
　On the stage, there were one masked man and two girls. The mask showed an old man smiling gently. He dance slowly holding a bell and sacred staff with cut paper (heisoku 幣束). This kagura’s feature was in a ceremonial manner with hardly any dramatic representation.

　I guessed from the title that this program represented at the famous scene of Japanese mythology, “Amano iwato biraki” (see to “Reference/Japan mythology). In “Amano iwato biraki” all deities are pleased when “Amaterasu” (she is a deity of sun) comes out from where she was hidden in a big door of rock. But, it is difficult to understand such a state only by seeing it. It is significant to appease the Earth in every direction by the swinging the bell. This program took about 30 minutes.

　Next program is “Hakagura“. This program is where two girls dance swinging a bell. When this program is played, people sitting on the stage play music “Saibara”.”Saibara” is a popular music in Heian period (9~10 C). When we listen to these music, we don’t feel such elements. The oldest music is called “Gagaku”. I feel this music like “Gagaku”faster in tempo. I don’t know if these music remain completely at the time, but I am filled with deep emotion. I think it worth listening to once at least because you would feel the life of ancient Japanese.

　Next program is based on Japanese mythology, too. This mythology says in the beginning of time, two deities, named “Izanagi” and “Izanami” gave birth this country. So, a mobile bridge is set on a stage and two players dance across the bridge. The male deity dances powerfully, the female deity dances with grace.While changing their positions they dance around a stage. This program ended at about half past 12. Then there was an intermission.

Intermission

　There were many food stalls in the shrine precinct. After I ate lunch, I found a place where people were being fire using metal barrel. This area was surrounded by a double fence, and some people were direct cuttlefish. I thought it was a good system. Only people who bought, direct dried cuttlefish could enter in front of the fire. I saw quite a lot of people buying cuttlefish.

Second half

　Meanwhile the kagura started again at 2 o’clock.
　First program, two little girls were dancing hoiding a bell. It was short.

　Next program was based on mythology,too. When the grandson of “Amaterasu (a deity of sun)”, “Ninigi” goes down from his country “Amatsu kuni” to this earth, two deities got married with the meditation of “Ninigi”. One is a chaperon of Ninigi, named “Ameno Uzume“, and is a deity who had waited Ninigi’s group and led this coutry to safty, mnamed “Sarutahiko“.

　So, two dancers enter the stage. One wore a red face mask with long -high nose, and another wore a female mask. The dancer with the red mask is “Sarutahiko”, and the other is “Ameno Uzume”. Sarutahiko held a pike, and Ameno Uzume held a big staff which red pieace of paper. Two dancers faced each other across the bridge, changing their position like the program of “Izanagi and Izanami”. This kagura basically consists of such dancing.
　It ended at 2:20.

　After short break, next program started. Three dancers each wore a mask of “okina” (old man) with long mustache and beard. They each held fans, and danced slowly making a circle. It is said that it is to express a prayer for a peace of the world.

　After 30 minutes, the whole program for today ended.
　If you are interested in old style kagura, I recommended to watch this “Saibara kagura”. You can definitely see a noble and elegant dance program.

　　　　　For more information
　This kagura is held at “Washinomiya shrine (branch shrine)”, 15th April. It is at “Hachiho, Washinomiya town”.