Watching the “Oni” dance in Kashima City ~2 “Menburyu” at Otonari district 音成面浮立
Date; The second Sunday in September Location; Tenshi Shrine, Otonari, Nanaura, Kashima City, Saga Prefecture Access; If you’re taking the bus, get off at Hizen-Nanaura Station; if you’re taking the train, it’s about a 10-minute walk from Hizen-Nanaura Station.
*Although the place name is “Otonari,” this traditional performing art is often referred to as “Otonashi,” a name derived from an older place name. This article is based on a visit on September 13, 2026.
This day is Menbryu Day
The Tidal Flats of the Sea of Ariake
On this day, various Menbryu events take place throughout this area. Starting in the morning, three events—in Iida, Hougaura, and Otonari—are held at staggered times. The reason for staggering the times is apparently because the Shinto priests serve at multiple shrines simultaneously.
Roadside Station Kashima
After visiting Hougaura, I walked toward Nanaura Station and headed to the next area, Otonari. It takes about 30 minutes on foot. Following the coastal road with a view of the tidal flats, I came to the roadside station “Kashima.” The Otonari area lies just beyond that.
In the plaza below the shrine
Fortunately, the rain that had been feared didn’t fall, and preparations for the performance starting at 11:00 a.m. are complete in the spacious plaza.
Just as in the “Hōgaura” performance, a group called the “Torige” performs first, while women known as the “Kaneuchi” stand on the sidelines.
Compared to Hōgura, the costumes are all black and subdued, and the music occasionally becomes quieter, giving the performance a very solemn atmosphere. It is said that this version is closer to the original form.
Going down the road ~”MIchiyuki”
“Michiyuki” could be considered, in a sense, the highlight of the Menburyu performance. The group proceeds along the path leading to the shrine. According to one scholar’s theory, this represents the advance of the Oni (ogres) who challenged the gods to battle.
Demons making their way along a narrow path between the fields. There’s simply no way to truly experience the atmosphere of this scene except by seeing it live. It’s no wonder it’s so popular with photographers. About 15 minutes.
At the shrine
They moved back to the shrine grounds. It was past noon.
It took about an hour, with a break in between. Although the days of intense heat were already behind them, the dancers were drenched in sweat. It was 1:00 p.m. After this, they would perform one more time to bring the festive day to a close.
Ocean of Treasures, Forever
Although “Hōgoura” is currently written as “Mother Sea,” it is said that in the past, the character for “treasure” was used, and it was read as “Hōgoura.” And here in the Sea of Ariake, it is said that the ecosystem is beginning to change because the bay has been closed off. Although local residents are opposed to this, the government remains unmoved. In any case, I can’t help but hope that this place will remain a treasure trove of the sea for as long as possible.
At Roadside Station Kashima, you can experience the tidal flats
Watching the “Oni” Dance in Kashima City 1 ~”Menburyu” at Hougaura 母ヶ浦面浮立
Date; The second Sunday in September every year Location; *Otonari, Kashima City, Saga Prefecture 849-1323 Access; Take a bus bound for Oura or Takezaki from the Hizen-Kashima Station Bus Terminal; the ride takes about 20 minutes, and get off at Nishiha. It’s a 10-minute walk from there. Hizen-Kashima is about 40 minutes from Saga by local train and about 20 minutes by limited express. Trains run about once an hour, and buses run about the same frequency. By train, it’s about 2.8 km from Nanaura Station.
The performing art known as “Menburyu” is representative not so much of Kashima City as of Saga Prefecture as a whole. Even though the art form is centered almost entirely in Kashima City, there is a bronze statue of it standing in front of the train station in Saga City—a city where the art is not even performed. Menburyu appears at various events and festivals throughout the year. However, September is the highlight. In this article, we’ll introduce products from the “Hougaura” and “Otonari” districts, which are the most representative of these areas.
Let’s Go to “Hougaura”
Unfortunately, Kashima City isn’t exactly well-connected by public transportation. The nearest train station is Hizen-Nanaura Station, but since it’s a bit far, it’s more convenient to take a bus from Kashima Station.
Get off at the “Sae” bus stop and walk a short distance toward Nanaura; you’ll see a sign on your right that reads “Menburyu Dedication Site” and “Chinju Shrine.”
Way of the shrine
In front of a very small shrine, a single path leads out into the rice fields. The group gathers there. At 8:20 a.m., the procession finally begins.
The *Yakko-san are leading the way. Following that, the Oni Mask finally launches into action. *Yakko: People who used to accompany samurai processions in the past. a samurai’s attendant
Stamping their feet heavily on the ground and beating small drums, they march forward as if to drive away the evil spirits of this land.
Adding a final touch of color are the elaborately dressed women who strike the gongs and, at times, cheer on the procession. About 15 minutes.
At the shrine
Next, moving to the shrine grounds, they performed the dance once more.
The dancing is so intense that by the time one routine ends, the dancers are panting heavily. Throughout the performance, messages of thanks for the congratulatory gifts are read aloud.
Finally, they left the line one by one. It ended around 9:30 that day.
One can see pride in his back
Afterward, another traditional performance from the same area is presented, bringing the Hougaura Autumn Festival to a close.
A Journey to Meet the Rice Field Gods: The Roots of Japan~ Kirishima shrine festival 霧島神宮お田植え祭
A great revolution once took place in Japan that transformed society as a whole. That revolution was the introduction of rice cultivation. Rice became the standard by which people measured their wealth. The wealthy were those who could afford to eat rice. For a long time, Japan was a feudal society, and rice production served as a measure of the power of local lords. It was not until the mid-19th century that rice ceased to be the standard.
Naturally, people have always held the god of rice cultivation in the highest regard and loved him dearly. This god is known as “Inari”. As a result, there are countless shrines named Inari throughout Japan. The most famous of these is Fushimi Inari in Kyoto.
Surprisingly, however, there are very few deities dedicated specifically to rice paddies. Kagoshima Prefecture is one of the few places where such a deity exists—in fact, it’s the only place where it can be found. What kind of being is this deity of the rice paddies? We set out to find the answer at Kirishima 霧島Jingu, Kagoshima’s central shrine.
Date ：The 4th day of the 2nd month of the lunar calendar Location ：2608-5 Kirishima-Taguchi, Kirishima City, Kagoshima Prefecture Access ：Access bus from Kagoshima Airport to Kirishima Shrine: Departs at 9:30 a.m., arrives at 10:15 a.m. (as of 2026) or From Kagoshima Chuo Station to Kirishima Jingu Station (Limited Express Kirishima), then by bus or taxi. It is about 6 kilometers from the station to the shrine.
Kagoshima Prefecture is the southernmost point of Japan, excluding Okinawa. For example, from Tokyo, it takes two hours by plane plus 30 minutes by bus. By Shinkansen, it takes six and a half hours. But that’s not the end of it. It takes about an hour by limited express train from downtown Kagoshima to Kirishima-Jingu Station. Don’t be fooled by the station name—it’s still another 6 kilometers from there.
The view of Sakurajima island from Kagoshima City
Limited Express Kirishima
Kirishima Jingu Station
You’ll need to take a bus or a taxi, but keep in mind that the train and bus schedules don’t always connect seamlessly. Fortunately, there’s a bus at 9:51, so I’ll make it in time (as of 2026). According to the information the author researched in advance, the Shinto ceremony was set to begin at 10:00 a.m. and the main event at 11:00 a.m., so I arrived a little after 10:00 a.m. However, even though it’s early morning, there’s already a line of visitors. It certainly lives up to its reputation as one of Kyushu’s most famous shrines (and a power spot). kirishima shrine https://www.kagoshima-kankou.com/for/attractions/10113
A cow welcomes you
You can’t enter the venue until the Shinto ceremony is over. Think that’s a waste of time? Not at all—they’ve got that covered. A cow will greet you. This is the cow that will appear in the farming ceremony to be held later.
The ceremony begins
When the time comes, the barriers blocking access to the plaza behind the main hall are removed, and visitors are allowed to enter. First, two groups carrying large trees run around the venue, led by oxen. Afterward, they scatter the leaves from the trees all around. This is meant to represent a rice paddy.
The farmers appear
Here comes a farmer and his wife. They are about to start plowing the field.
They plow the fields by having oxen pull farm implements. This is the very same rural landscape that could once be seen throughout Japan. Just 100 years ago, this is what it was like everywhere in Japan. Or maybe that was true not just in Japan, but all over the world.
First, they have the ox pull the plow to begin plowing the field. However, this ox is a real handful. It suddenly starts running, comes to a complete standstill, or sometimes even charges toward the spectators. In short, it’s completely out of control. This is where the cow takes center stage. “Grandma, this cow won’t listen to me. Isn’t she over there?” “My, what a troublesome cow!”
The dialogue between the two characters, as well as the lines spoken by the Rice Field God who appears later, are all in the Kagoshima dialect. For this reason, a handout (in Japanese) explaining the general meaning of what they are saying is distributed—though you can generally understand the essentials even without it. Eventually, the two exit the stage while patting their waists. “Hey, I’m heading back now. I’ll make some tea, so come back soon, okay?” As they say this, they both exit the stage.
And now, today’s star, the god of the Fields, finally makes his appearance.
The god of the Fields makes his entrance—not in a grand manner, but slowly and quietly—and stands there with giving impression of broad mind. He wears shabby clothes and holds a large rice paddle and a bell in his hands. Then he delivers his speech in a very strong Kagoshima dialect. “Well, today is the Rice Planting Festival at Kirishima Shrine, so I got invited and came out.” He says something along those lines.
He explained the origin of the rice paddle he was holding, described his own appearance, and said something along the lines of, “If everyone works hard starting early in the morning, we’ll get a bountiful rice harvest.” This god has a friendly face and speaks with a thick dialect. Just look at him, and you’ll understand. Even though he’s a god, people’s small, everyday wishes gave birth to the god of the rice fields.
This god is not a god who guides. He is a god who accompanies.
Commemorative Photo
Each part lasts about 20 minutes. With a priest’s ceremony and other events interspersed throughout, the event ends shortly after 11:30. After that, the characters will all gather at the entrance to pose for a commemorative photo.
Don’t you think this sculpture has a certain warmth that makes you readily accept that this is what the “God of the Rice Fields” is supposed to be, while also conveying a sense of vast, boundless expanse?
Ending
After that, the author took the bus again to the station, waited an hour, and then took the limited express back to downtown Kagoshima. Actually, if you’ve made it all the way to Kagoshima City and Kirishima Shrine, there’s a place this sight really want you to visit. It’s a place where you can gain a deeper understanding of the rice field deities. Unfortunately, however, we’ve run out of space here. Please check out the next article for more. cf. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/06/21/two-must-see-2museums-when-visiting-kagoshima/
Two Must-See 2Museums When Visiting Kagoshima
I think a lot of people have come from “the article about KIrishima shrine festival”. If that’s the case (and even if it isn’t), there are some museums you should definitely visit when you go to Kagoshima—both to prepare for your trip and to reflect on it afterward. I’d like to introduce two of them.
Reimeikan Museum
Location; 7-2 Shiroyama-cho, Kagoshima City, Kagoshima Prefecture Access; ・Get off at the “City Hall” stop on the streetcar or bus, then walk about 5 minutes ・Get off at the “Satsuma Righteous Samurai Monument” stop on the Kagoshima City View, and it’s right there
For those coming from Kagoshima Chuo Station,
Exit the main entrance of JR Kagoshima Chuo Station, and you’ll see the “Kagoshima Chuo Ekimae” stop for the Kagoshima City Tram directly in front of you.
Take the “City Tram Line 1” bound for Reimeikan; the destination is “Kagoshima Ekimae.”
This is where the castle of the Shimazu clan, the feudal lords who once ruled this region, once stood. That is why there is such an impressive gate here. At the entrance to Reimeikan, a massive demon-faced roof tile greets visitors.
Spirit of the Rice Fields
Once you’re inside, go up to the second floor. This is the area where ethnographic materials are on display. A statue of the spirit of the rice fields is on display here. In fact, there are several replica statues lined up around the museum as well. Furthermore, these statues of the rice field spirit can only be seen in Kagoshima. Typically, throughout Japan, people have entrusted their wishes to Buddhist statues known as “Jizō.” Here in Kagoshima, however, as if to serve as a substitute, ordinary people erect statues of the rice field deity.
That’s why, even though they’re called “gods,” they all have unique and approachable appearances.
Various Groups of Masks
Masks of Spirit of rice field
First up: the masked figures that appear at Kirishima Shrine
Festivals featuring the rice field deity are held in various places. The masks used in these festivals are all unique; there is no single standard design, and they are incredibly diverse.
The Visiting Gods of the Remote Islands
Kagoshima Prefecture is located at the southernmost tip of the Kyushu region, but beyond it lie a string of islands stretching all the way to Okinawa Prefecture. It is no exaggeration to say that the various deities who appear on these remote islands enrich the diversity of Kagoshima Prefecture’s mask traditions.
“Takamen,” a character featured in the Harvest Dance on Takeshima Island in Mishima Village. These dances are featured in the Hassaku Odori festival on both Kuroshima and Takeshima. The festival is held on August 31 on Kuroshima and on September 1 on Takeshima. Kagoshima travel https://www.kagoshima-kankou.com/feature/sizenkouen/10
The three on the left are the Men Odori (Mask Dances) of Tanegashima island. More than 20 dancers wearing paper masks perform to the beat of drums and cymbals to give thanks for a bountiful harvest. Held on the third Sunday in October. official https://www.furusato-tanegashima.net/ky-geinou/kg-menodori.html
And these are the strangest visiting deities—not just in Kagoshima, but in all of Japan. On the left is “Mendon,” and on the right is “Boze.” Boze appears on Akuseki Island on the 16th day of the 7th month of the lunar calendar, while Mendon appears on Iwo Island on the 1st or 2nd day of the 8th month of the lunar calendar. They are mysterious deities who burst into the Bon dance celebrations. cf. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/08/30/boze-the-strangest-visiting-deity/
Before we get into that, let’s briefly review what a tengu is. According to ancient texts, Sarutahiko is described as having a red face and a high nose; his appearance was identical to that of the tengu, who appeared later. Since ancient times, people have feared tengu as powerful demons that bring misfortune and cause natural disasters and wars.
In addition, there is also a deity named Sarutahiko. These two are actually completely different entities, but the reason they are often confused is that they look alike. According to ancient texts, Sarutahiko is described as having a red face and a high nose; his appearance was identical to that of the tengu, who appeared later.
Sarutahiko
Let’s go inside and take a look
Inside, there is an overwhelming number of masks on display. I heard that the previous director collected these all by himself.
It’s not just tengu on display. It feels like they’ve gathered every mask imaginable. Not just masks, but related merchandise as well.
Even masks from overseas. At this point, I really couldn’t say.
Well, I guess you could only call it sheer determination. If you ever visit Kirishima Shrine, be sure to stop by. I hear they also have a Buddha statue that brings good luck.
Mem-buryu is popular in Saga Prefecture in Kyushu, especially in Kashima city. In this article, we will focus on the Nanaura 七浦 area of Kashima city, where it is most active. Men-buryu wear Oni mask. Speaking of group dance with a mask of Oni, Oni-kenbai in Iwate Prefecture is famous, but Mem-buryu is an entertainment comparable to Oni-kenbai in the north.
The Mem-buryu is a kind of Furyu dance with Oni mask. Furyu dances is difficult to define. Because there are all over the country and each has its own characteristics. In very simple terms, it is a dance in which the dancers wear conspicuous costumes and beat drums and other instruments.
Furyu dance
*In case you are interested, here is how the Japanese Agency for Cultural Affairs defined it when it applied to UNESCO. “Embodying the spirit of ‘fūryū’ 風流（浮立) (gorgeous and eye-catching), the folk arts are performed to the accompaniment of songs, flutes, drums, gongs and other instruments. Folk performing arts that embody the spirit of ‘fu-ryu’, or elegance and attractiveness, and are performed to the accompaniment of songs, flutes, drums, gongs and other instruments. People perform these folk arts performing to pray for disaster prevention, memorial services for the dead, good harvests, rain harvests, etc. The dance is a symbol of people’s wishes for a peaceful life, including prayers for disaster prevention, memorial services for the dead, bountiful crops and rain-making. Participated in by more than one generation of local people on occasions such as festivals and annual events. Local people of all ages participate on festivals and annual events.”
Memburyu consists of three groups of dancers. The main character is a kake-uchi, with Oni mask, hair (or hemp) called a shaguma, and a small Taiko (Japanese drum) hanging from it. There is no set number of performers. The average number is between 20 and 30, sometimes less than 10. All are men. Next is the ‘kane-uchi’, a group of people who beat the gong (kane). They are all women and strike a single gong in pairs at the same time. They wear hanagasa hats on their heads and the most colourful costumes. And the role of the beating the Oo-taiko (big drum). In addition, there are two pairs of people called ‘torige 鳥毛 ‘. They have a stick with hemp hair on the end and pass it between the two of them as they go. This is an imitation of the processions of feudal lords in old days.
‘Mem-buryu’ has one story to tell. First, the Oni challenge the god to a battle. To do so, they march valiantly towards the shrine where the god resides. Then, after the battle with the god, they are converted and dance a joyous dance. The Oni perform a dance to please the god and finally go down to the village to bring good fortune to the houses. As this story, ‘Mem-buryu’ consists of three main parts. The first is on the way to go into the presence of God. The next is the dance before the god, including the fight with the god. The last is a dance expressing joy.
And on the basis of these three parts, experts now classify ‘mem-buryu’ into three types. Those that retain the oldest form. Those that have become a completed performing art. And those that focus on the last part, part three.
Representative regions
The oldest type is from the Otonari 音成 area. In this district, the costumes are generally plain, with navy blue and yellow accents only on the strings of the drums. In contrast, the Hougaura 母ヶ浦, which belongs to the second type, wears a more flamboyant costume with a wave and anchor design. The more they change from old to new, the more entertaining they become. The masks and costume designs are slightly different in each district.
When can we watch it? And what are the attractions?
You can see Mem-buryu in many places outside Kashima 鹿島, so the dates vary according to each region, but most of them are held in September in Kashima city , which is most lively region. The first and best place to start is the Kashima Performing Arts Festival at the Yutoku Inari 祐徳稲荷神社 Shrine on the second Sunday of September. On this day, you can see not only Mem-buryu but also other traditional performing arts. →https://saga-kashima-kankou.com/en/event/4256 In the morning of the same day, Mem-buryu is held at 3 shrines nearby. The group of many Oni moving along the paths through the golden fields of harvested rice is a unique sight in the area and attracts many photographers and tourists. But it’s a shame that you can’t see all of them because they are at similar times. The Sake Festival at Hizen-hamajuku in late March is also a good opportunity. This area has retained its old townscape and has been designated by the national government as a conservation area. There are three sake breweries here, which open their warehouses at the same time and hold sake tasting events. Performing arts such as men-buryu are also performed at the same time. →https://saga-kashima-kankou.com/en/event/14439
We must not forget that this season also marks the beginning of Japan’s most brilliant cherry blossom season.
Welcome to Saga
Saga prefecture is not that big. There are many sightseeing spots scattered in a small area. Hizen-hamajuku is a nationally designated townscape that makes you feel old Japan. It is also a pottery kingdom, and there are many famous places such as Arita, Karatsu and Imari. The Yoshinogari ruins are ancient ruins that shocked Japanese people when they were opened to the public.
It is also very accessible, less than an hour by train from Fukuoka, the center of Kyushu.
A unique cultural experience at the resort ~Yoron jugoya festival
Date: The 15th day of March, August, and October in the lunar calendar (about one month later in the new calendar) Location: Gusuku, Yoron-town, Oshima-gun, Kagoshima prefecture 鹿児島県大島郡与論城 Access: About 10 minutes by car from Yoron Airport. It takes less than two hours to fly from Kagoshima Airport to Yoron. From Okinawa, it takes about 40 minutes by plane. There are also ferries.
To beaches with blue sea and white sand
Maldives, Hawaii, Seychelles, Fiji. The blue sea, the white clouds, and if possible, the white sand beach would be great. The scenery with the beautiful sea has always been a dream of mankind, and many people would like to go there someday. There is such a place in Japan. That’s Okinawa. There are many Japanese who can’t go to New Caledonia or Phuket, but would like to go to Okinawa. Yoron Island, introduced today, is in Kagoshima Prefecture, but its location is almost Okinawan. A number of outlying islands lie to the south of Kagoshima Prefecture, the southernmost part of the Japanese archipelago. Half of them are in Kagoshima and the other half in Okinawa. And Okinawa was once an independent kingdom. Its name is Ryukyu. It flourished through trade between China and Japan. However, it was invaded by the Shimazu clan in Kagoshima in the 17 century and became a vassal state, leaving only its name. So, a hybrid culture has grown up in Yoron, which borders such Okinawa and is also Kagoshima. The two cultures – Okinawan, with its strong Chinese influence, and Japanese – merged on the island to create something that is not simply a cross between the two, but something unique and strange to the island.
Yoron jugoya festival
Because of this history, this Jugoya 十五夜 (Fifteenth Night Festival) will be divided into two major groups to put on the performing arts. The first group performs Japanese mainland-style theater and the second group performs Ryukyu-style dance.
Ryukyu style dance
Ryukyu-style dancers perform various dances wearing shuppa and hoods. One is a rain dance, and it has been said that it always rains at that time. With their faces completely covered by cloth, they look as if their ancestors have risen from the land of the dead as spirits.
One is Yamato style. Yamato means the Japanese mainland. In other words, it means mainland style. Indeed, it is in the form of a play based on Kyogen. The relationship between daimyo and servants is truly a Kyogen. However, even a single mask is quite different from the original kyogen. Whereas the original kyogen used masks carved out of wood, here they use ones made of bamboo and paper. The original masks are like works of art, painstakingly made by craftsmen. In contrast, the masks here are simple and sometimes look like a joke. This gives them an originality that can only be seen here.
However, all the performers speak old dialects, so it may be a little difficult to understand without prior knowledge. Therefore, this website introduces some representative performances.
To use in ceremonies, the daimyo made Taro buy something called Suehirogali (a fan). But Taro doesn’t know what it is. On the way, he meets an umbrella seller, who says, “This is the Suehirogali4,” and makes him buy a torn umbrella. The daimyo gets angry at Taro, who returned home without knowing that he had been deceived. However, Taro delighted the daimyo with the songs and dances he learned from the umbrella vendor, and the daimyo forgave him.
Okumagawa
Okumagawa Genzaemon, whose father was killed, plots to kill 1,000 people. Yamabushi(a mountain priest) appears there and accompanies him, chanting a Buddhist memorial service. Eventually, as Genzaemon tells the story of how his father was killed, he discovers that the Yamabushi himself is actually the avenger. However, Genzaemon was admonished by the Yamabushi that slaying a man would not help him in any way, and he became a disciple of Yamabushi.
So here is the Genzaemon. He does not look like a great avenger, but he is a representative mask of Yoron here. It is no longer even a mask. It is in the wrong position and the face is too big. It has been used as the cover of a photo book and as a souvenir. As you can see this, the masks here are generally laid back. There is a worldview unique to this place. In fact, The second show, which only wears a headdress, is more mysterious.
Originally, only the second group of dances were on the island. However, one day, someone brought the Kyogen (satirical plays) back from the Yamato mainland. Therefore, laughter is the main part of 1st groupe. So the masks are also laid back.
The festival is held three times a year, but the one in August (actually September) is the most spectacular. The lion dance is performed only at this time. Lions are different from those on the mainland and are more Okinawan. They put palmlike plants called shuro on their bodies and gnaw on the heads of islanders. Everyone dances at the end of the festival. This night is called Jugoya 15 Nights and is said to be the most beautiful moon of the year. Listening to the sound of the waves, dancing, and admiring the moon, the festival continues, forgetting that it is late at night.
Yoron Island, near Okinawa, is one of the most beautiful places in Japan for its sea. Transportation is by bus with about 5 buses a day. Others are cabs, car rentals, and bicycle rentals. Recently, it seems that kickboard rentals have started. There are many other ways to enjoy the island, such as marine sports. There are many facilities where you can experience diving, snorkeling, sup and windsurfing. A festival where you can admire the ocean and interact with the islanders is highly recommended.
be intoxicated by a fox show ~Takengei 竹ン芸 in Nagasaki
Date: October 14 and 15 every year Location: Wakamiya-Inari 若宮稲荷 shrine, 2-10-2 Irabayashi 伊良林, Nagasaki City, Nagasaki Access: From Nagasaki 長崎 Station, take a streetcar (bound for Hotaruchaya 蛍茶屋) for about 8 minutes, get off at Shin Daikokucho 大工町 stop, and walk about 10 minutes. From JR Nagasaki Station, take a 15-minute bus ride to Shindaiko-cho 新大工町 and get off at Shindaiko-cho stop, then walk about 10 minutes.
Nagasaki
The only town that had an open port even during the period of national seclusion. The only town where foreign cultural relics could be obtained officially. Along with Hiroshima, it experienced the atomic bombing. Nagasaki is a small port town with many faces, but it is also one of the most attractive. However, when it comes to performing arts using masks, there is not much that stands out. Most of them are kagura, a form of kagura that has been passed down from generation to generation on the island. One of these performing arts that can be seen in Nagasaki City is ” Taken-gei,”
The setting is Wakamiya Inari Shrine. It is not a very large shrine, but there are as many as 70 torii gates on the grounds. Two towering bamboos stand in the precincts of a shrine. One is about 10 meters high and has a staircase called “kase” for climbing.
Then the two appeared dressed as a male and female fox. They climbed up the bamboo and performed various tricks on a 10-meter-high platform. The audience could only look up in amazement as the performers performed their tricks on the swaying bamboos without lifelines.
In fact, there are two more bamboos standing next to it, each about 5 meters long. This is for children to show off their skills, and elementary school children between the ages of five and eight can also show off their skills.
In 2018, UNESCO listed 10 Japanese Visiting Deity events on its World Heritage List (official name: ritual visits of deities in masks and costumes). In fact, there are more than 10 Japanese Visiting Deity events. Since these 10 were selected from among them, each has its own unique characteristics. Among them, this Paantoo is probably the best in that you have to be prepared to participate in it. What on earth does this mean? Let’s take a closer look.
in Ueno-nobaru
Date: Last Ox (ushi) Day* of the 12th lunar month (Late January of the new calendar) Location: Ueno-nobaru, Miyakojima City, Okinawa Prefecture Access: The Ueno-nobaru district is about 6 kilometers (14 minutes) from Miyakojima Airport. Take Prefectural Route 190 from the airport. *In Japan, there has long been a tradition of using a cycle of 12 animals to represent years, months, and days. For example, “What year is it?” might be answered, “It’s the Year of the Tiger.” These are simply symbols; they do not carry any specific meaning associated with the animals themselves.
Now, this is what Parntoo looks like. What’s so scary about it? It certainly doesn’t look scary anywhere. Actually, there are two events called Pārntoo, and both are held on Miyako Island. However, the dates and contents are completely different, and it is not clear how they are related. This is a scene from a parntoo held in the Ueno-nobaru上野野原 area. The event is called Satiparou, which means to purify the village. The masks are worn by a boy in the district. Behind him are women decorated with plants that are meant to ward off evil. They go around the district exorcising demons while shouting “Hoi, hoi”. The tour begins after 5:00 p.m., and the sun is setting by the time it comes to the outskirts of the village after the tour. There, all the bad luck is removed and the event comes to an end.
in Shimajiri
Date: Early September of lunar calendar (Around October in the new calendar) Location: Hirara Shimajiri, Miyakojima City, Okinawa Prefecture Access: The Shimajiri district is about 14 kilometers (30 minutes) from Miyakojima Airport. From the airport, take Prefectural Route 78, then Prefectural Route 83 and Prefectural Route 230, and turn right at the Shimajiri Iriguchi bus stop.
And here is a Pantoo from the Shimajiri 島尻 area. Generally speaking, this is the most famous Parntoo. And in a way, it is the scariest god. There could be any number of deities that are scarier just by their appearance, but it is hard to tell from the images alone why this one is so scary. In fact, this god has mud all over his body that emits a strong odor. And they are the god who rubs it on anyone and everyone. It does not matter if it is a police officer or a tourist. Cars, houses, and people don’t matter at all to them. Especially easy targets are children, women, and newly built homes. They will enter a newly built house and sling mud at you with impunity. Yet people welcome this with a smile. So what is this stinky mud?
Three parntoos, all men under the age of 40, will serve in that role. On the day of the event, they wear a specific costume and go to the well. The costume consists of vines all over the body, a special rope tied around the waist, and a walking stick. They also wear grass on their heads to ward off evil spirits. The rope is a special rope used to prevent evil spirits from entering the village in another event. And a wooden mask. They smear mud from the bottom of a well called ” Nmarigar” all over their bodies. This completes their transformation into gods. This well is a sacred well where, until recently, when a new child was born, the parents would draw water from this well to keep it out of sight. It is a well that is associated with life and death.
However, it stinks. And near Nmarigar, people are already waiting for Parntoo to come. Finally, around 5:00 in the evening, Parntoo slowly appears in front of the people. Slowly at first, as if nothing is happening, then suddenly they start running and catching people. It is said that being covered in mud will make you happy for a year, but it is still human nature to run away. This is where the mad rush begins.
Mud everywhere for everyone. People running away, laughing, crying children. But the really scary part comes after dark. This event lasts until eight o’clock at night. It is not easy to find Pārntoo once he is hidden in the darkness. This goes on for two days. If you rent a car, you need to park it far away. It is said that once the scent of Prāntoo gets on your car, it will remain there for three days. Also, if you are wearing black clothes, there is a possibility that you will be attacked again and again.
When the parnto will take place will not be announced until just prior to the parnto. This is because there have been problems in the past with tourists who were unfamiliar with the area, and people want only those who understand the purpose of the event to be able to visit. In addition, the parntoo is always accompanied by an escort. However, this is a sacred festival. If you go, please be careful, and if you happen to run into someone, be thankful that you were lucky enough to see him or her.
Okinawa is one of the most famous resort areas in Japan. Miyako Island is considered one of the most beautiful of them all. Sea, hot springs, and activities. It is a place that makes you happy just by being there.
Date: October 14th every year Location: Kusiku Iwakura Hachiman shrine 櫛来岩倉八幡社 Kushiki, Kunimi town, Kunisaki city, Oita prefecture Access: Take a bus from Usa to Kunimi Post Office in about one hour. From there, walk 30 minutes. A cab will take about 30 minutes.
There are some festivals where it is not at all clear now what the purpose of such events is. Among them, the one this site will introduce here is a festival full of mysteries. There are even questions about the relationship between Greek mythology and Judaism. As is often the case with such festivals, the traffic is very poor. There is a bus service from the nearby Usa station (1200 yen as of 2022), but it arrives at around 2:00 in the afternoon. You have to walk another 30 minutes. If you take a cab, you can specify the time, but the price will go up to about 10,000 yen.
Schedule and outline ~up to the day before
Simply put, the festival is about a mysterious masked god named Kebesu ケベス, who is rushing towards the fire, but is stopped by a character named Tooba 当場. And finally, Touba joins in and sprinkles the area with fire. It takes about 30 minutes.
Getting to this point was a challenge. The first step is to decide which of the ten districts will be in charge this year on October 7, and then to decide on the roles of each of them, except the role of Kebesu. On the 8th, we make a place under the eaves of the house of the person on duty to welcome the gods. Then all the people, led by the god’s caretaker called Okayo, move the god there. The Okayo purifies himself with sea water every day from this day on, and then makes offerings to the gods. They had to collect ferns for the festival. The people in charge also go through a one-week purification period. Specifically, they do not eat meat. They do not mix fire with other areas. For this reason, they can only eat food that they have prepared themselves. 13 days. All of them go to the beach to bathe in sea water and make rice cakes. Finally, the role of Kebesu is decided by lottery.
At around 2:00, all staff members carry the gods and offerings to the shrine, the site of the festival. 7:00 p.m. The ritual begins. The person in the role of Kebesu wears a mask, and the priest draws the character for “victory” on his back with his finger. Around 7:30. Kevesu and all the others dressed in white appear at the venue. Already in the center of the room, a pile of ferns is ablaze with flames.
At the venue, drums, flutes, and bells played a four-beat rhythm. The Kebesu and Toubas march in a line. Eventually, Kebesu sees an opening and rushes toward the fire. Tooba rushes to stop him. Both of them have long sticks, which they use to hit and stop each other. This is repeated three times. On the third time, Kevesu reached the fire and stirred it with a stick. But even there, Touba pushes him back again. These series are repeated three times over, resulting in a total of nine times. Finally, on the ninth time, Kevesu stirs the fire and rolls a burning fern around a stick. However, even the Tooba, who is supposed to stop him, gather around the fire together. They hold up the lit sticks and face the audience. It is as if the people who tried to stop the zombies have turned into zombies. And the festival ends in confusion and chaos. This is the sequence of events.
What is Kevesu? No one has any idea what it is. There are many theories about when it started, some say it started a thousand years ago, others say it started around 500 years ago. The records have been destroyed in fire a long time ago, so there are no clues at all. There are several theories. The first is that it is an abbreviation of the Chinese character for “fire kicker. This word appears in the incantations chanted by the Shinto priests. The second one is that Ebisu has become bastardized. Ebisu is a familiar god in Japan who brings good fortune. He is always depicted as having caught a sea bream. As you can see, he is a god who originally came from the sea. The theory is that it was originally people who made their living on the sea, and that it represents the conflict between them and land groups. The third is that this peninsula produces iron sand, and the people who work with it in blacksmithing took fire very seriously. Furthermore, there is this theory. In Greek mythology, a man named Prometheus stole the fire in God’s kingdom and gave it to the people. I can only say that I don’t know what’s going on here anymore.
In any case, it is certainly a festival full of mysteries. One person has this to say about the festival. It is a festival that no amount of words can convey. You just have to experience it for yourself. However, please be sure to wear clothes that are safe from the fire.
Otaue(rice planting) festival at Kirishima Grand shrine
Date: February 4 of the old lunar calendar (In the new calendar, it is a month late, in mid-March) Location: Kirishima taguchi 2605-5, Kirishima city, Kagoshima prefecture Access: 10 minutes by bus from Kirishimajingu Station on the Nippo Line. (About 1 hour from Kagoshima)
Kirishima Shrine is one of the most famous shrines in Kagoshima. However, it is located in a rather inconvenient place. It is about six kilometers away from the nearest station. There is only one bus every hour. However, it is also one of the places where Japanese mythology is handed down, with a history of over 1500 years. More than 100 rituals are held here every year. One of them is the “Rice Planting Festival”.
There are many rare statues in Kagoshima that are not found in other prefectures. They are called “Tanokansaa”. It means the deity of rice fields. In Japan, if you look at the side of the road, you may see a statue of “Jizo-san”. In Kagoshima, we have “Tanokansaa” like that.
It is said that there is a festival in which “Tanokansaa” appears at Kirishima Shrine, the home of Tanokansaa.
It starts at 10:00 on the day. After the Shinto ritual, the first thing to do is to bring in the shii tree with the cow in the lead and scatter the branches around the area. This is supposed to be fertilizer. After that, several rituals are performed, and then the old man and woman appear.
These two perform a skit. “Do you know where the cow is?” “I don’t know where the cow is,” “That cow is always annoying me.” “It’s because you don’t take care of it,” and so on. Then the cow finally appears. But the cow doesn’t listen to them. It does everything on its own and annoys the couple.
It looks as if a roadside “tanokansa” has just stood up and walked away. He is holding a large rice ladle in his hand. After this, they say a few words and end with a dance. The performance is scheduled to end around noon. Japanese have always lived on the basis of agriculture. Rice has always been the staple food, and in the past, rice itself was the standard of national power, and salaries were paid in rice. This festival is a precious opportunity to experience the original scenery of Japan.
The area is also dotted with hot springs and an art forest. Above all, the shrine itself stands in the midst of a mythical setting. It takes an hour and a half from Fukuoka to Kagoshima by Shinkansen.
