People say that there are seven valleys in Ina 伊那. The transportation is not so convenient. It takes 20 minutes by train from Iida Station, the main station of the region, to Ichida Station, the nearest station of this festival. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from the station. There is only one train every hour or so. That is how deep the mountains are in the region, but that is why so many performing arts remain. The biggest feature of this area is the appearance of a huge lion called “Yatai Shishi 屋台獅子”. There are many “yatai” lion dances in the area, but the lion dance of Ruri-dera temple 瑠璃寺 is considered to be the origin of all of them. It is said to have a long history, dating back about 600 years. However, the current form started about 120 years ago.
A yatai lion is a large cart made of wood and bamboo that people enter and operate. It is easy to imagine it as a giant bamboo basket. It has wheels on both sides to move it. It is about two meters high, two meters wide, and seven meters long. There are about 20 drums, flutes, and other musical instruments inside, and a curtain is placed over the top to resemble a lion’s body. Only the leader of the group controls the lion’s head.
One of the features of Ruri-dera temple is the large number of characters that appear in it. The main character guiding the lion is “Uteno 宇天王”. Then there are two ogres who protect the lion, and a monkey who is a messenger of the shrine. The event is held at a temple called Ruri-dera temple, which also houses a shrine called Hiyoshi 日吉 Shrine. The fusion of shrines and temples is characteristic to Japan. To begin with, the people of the time learned the lion dance from the Hiyoshi Shrine in Kyoto. There is also a recently revived character named “Ranryo Oh 蘭陵王”. He dances before the lion dance. “Ranryo-oh is one of the oldest Japanese musical forms called bugaku 舞楽, which combines music and dance from the continent with traditional Japanese music and dance. For this reason, the entire lion dance is very elegant, accompanied by the sounds of bugaku.
At around 12:30 pm, small monkeys played by children begin to patrol the area. Eventually, at one o’clock, the sutra reading ceremony begins. After that, the lion dance begins. The monkeys organize the audience with their silly movements. Then two demons come out to intimidate those who are out of line. Then, in front of the guest hall, there is a large lion with its head on the ground, asleep. The main actor, “Uten-oh” appears and wakes up the lion. When the lion is woken up, it is in a bad mood and starts to yell, but Uten-oh soothes it. Then he slowly leads the lion outside. This is how the lion’s journey to the main shrine, 500 meters away, begins. It is late spring, and the cherry blossoms begin to fall in the plains at the beginning of April, but here in the highlands, the cherry blossoms finally come into full bloom around this time. Under the cherry blossoms in full bloom, the lion slowly moves forward with the guidance of Uten-oh, accompanied by elegant old music. The journey takes about 30 minutes. When you arrive at the main shrine, you will be given a “shishibana” which was used as the tail of a lion. This is a piece of bamboo with flowers made of five different colors of Chiyogami paper. People take these home and offer them to their Buddhist altars or display them on their altars.
In October, there is an event where all the lion dancers in the area are gathered, but this lion dance is not included in the event. In the first place, it has rarely been seen outside. Therefore, this is a rare opportunity to see it. On Saturday nights, there is also an illuminated road on the way. If time permits, I recommend staying overnight and taking your time to enjoy it.
Report: Watching Kagura in historical town ~Ashikaga Raiden shrine Kagura
Date: 4th Sunday, April (Spring festival) & 4th Sunday, October (Autumn festival) Location: Honjo 1-1562, Ashikaga city, Tochigi prefecture Access: From Tokyo, take the JR Ueno-Tokyo Line to Ueno. From there, change to the Joban Line and go to Kuki. From there, take the Tobu Railway to Ashikaga-shi Station. It is about 4 km from there. About two hours from Tokyo.
*This article is based on my visit in April, 2016.
introduction
This time, we had the same guides as before. If you want to know who they are, please read this article.
Long time no see. I hope you are well
Really. I was looking forward to seeing the Kagura with you again for the first time in a while.
Today, I heard that we are going to visit the Raiden Shrine in Ashikaga City, aren’t we?
That’s right.
By the way, do you know that Ashikaga City is a very historic city?
Yes, I did.
Then do you know why it is so?
No, not that much…
Ashikaga city’s history
I thought it would be something like that. I’m going to give you a brief explanation, so you’d better listen up. In the beginning, this country was ruled by the emperor, and the nobles held the actual power of politics. But then the samurai came to power. Originally, the samurai were only a kind of bodyguard to protect the aristocrats’ territories. However, as they gradually gained actual power in the countryside, battles between samurai began to occur. Their power was not to be underestimated, and the struggles between the nobles needed their help. Eventually, powerful leaders emerge to unite them. The two major groups were the Heike (平家) and the Genji (源氏). The two sides faced off and Yoritomo, the leader of the victorious Minamoto clan (Genji), created the first ever samurai government.
nobles
battle
battle
Minamoto no Yoritomo(first shogun of Kamakura shogunate)
From then on, the power of the samurai prevailed over that of the nobles. This was called the Kamakura (鎌倉) Shogunate, around the 12th century. However, around the 14th century, the forces that held the power of the shogunate became increasingly despotic rulers, and a rebellion finally broke out. They overthrew Kamakura shogunate and established a new government in Kyoto. This was called the Muromachi (室町) Shogunate, and the Ashikaga (足利) clan was the one who created it. The Ashikaga clan’s original hometown is here in Ashikaga.
Ashikaga shogun (the first)
Kinkakuji-temple (Kyoto)
The Kinkakuji-Temple, one of the most famous tourist attractions in Kyoto, was built by the Ashikaga Shogun.
Come to think, I just talked to an old man who was looking into the shrine and he said he was a descendant of the Ashikaga clan. It’s a town with a long history.
By the way, will you be able to make it to Kagura?
It starts around 11:00, so you’ll have plenty of time to get there.
*Actually, it turned out to be a terrible mistake. This is the author’s actual experience.
But it’s far, isn’t it? I can fly there.
There are bicycles for rent at Ashikagashi Station, so I’ll take this.
Again?!
Well, let’s go!
Let’s go to shrine
Ashikaga city
The photo is an image.
There are so many steps…
We humans have to go up here to meet deities.
That sounds good. You should feel the greatness of our deities.
Ashikaga Raiden shrine
Whew. We’re finally here.
We’re right in the middle of a ritual. Hasn’t the kagura started yet?
It’s past eleven now, so it should start in a little while.
But wait. The sign says that the next one starts from the 8th program. I thought it’s already started.
Oh, my God! I think I misunderstood that the Shinto ritual started at 11:00 and the Kagura started at 11:00.
*The actual start was at 9:00. It’s no use crying over spiled milk. Let’s get ourselves together.
8th program “Kanayamahiko”
Look! your colleagues are coming out here. They are always noisy, aren’t they.
This is what we do, you know. It’s what we’re so called “mode makers”. But, everyone misses us when we’re not here.
It’s a perfect day for forging sword. Now, let’s get started.
We’ll do our best to help you, sir.
*The following dialogues of the characters are only imaginary. The actual Kagura is performed entirely in pantomime.
But the principal character of the show is this one. It’s Kanayamahiko. He’s the deity of the blacksmith’s ancestors.
He seems so strait-laced.
In the old days, the ability to work metals, whether copper or iron, was the cutting edge of technology.
It looks like it went pretty well, don’t you think?
We agree with you completely, sir. It looks great.
Kanayamahiko is looking at the finished sword, and Hyottoko are saying things like, “It’s pretty good,” but do they really know what makes a sword good or bad?
No, I doubt they don’t understand at all. It’s all okay. That’s our role. We are here just to make it lively.
No, not quite enough.
Yes, it is. (Good grief. Isn’t that enough? )
Yeah, it turned out pretty well.
As we expected of you, Sir. Kanayamahiko. You always do such a great job. It was worth our while to help you.
While this was going on, Kanayamahiko left the stage, as if he finally had a sword that he was satisfied with.
9th program “Ebisu”
Well, they abruptly started fishing, what a surprise without interuaption?
So, it’s that deity again,
I’ve been waiting for you! The crowd is already in an uproar. Most of the bait are practical things like cup noodles.
The adults were more fascinated than the kids. Is that okay?
*Here’s a little additional explanation. Ebisu is the deity of fishing and also the god of prosperity. He is known for always carrying his fishing gear and a sea bream.
Here’s an amazing tactic coming up.
I mean, he’s not just a mood maker. He is truly an entertainer.
With rice cakes and cup noodles, they can fish for gift money all they want. This is the true *Ebisu face!.
*Ebisu face means smiling face. It is often used to describe the smiling faces that people make when something good happens, especially in business.
Oh, it’s rare to see a Hyottoko fishing for sea bream instead of Ebisu, isn’t it?
Intermission
It’s your favorite time of the day.
This is the best part of kagura. In addition, yakisoba noodles are 300 yen, and a plastic bottle of tea is 50 yen. I bought one for you.
Is it really that cheap? It’s already past midday.
10th program “Daikoku”
When Ebisu comes out, Daikoku is supposed to be next. It says in the brochure that he carries a hammer and a fan and sprinkles gold and silver around the country.
Where’d you get a brochure like that?
A person concerned gave it to me because he said I was eager to see even though I wasn’t a local. He said “I hope you will spread the word about this kagura”.
*This is a fact. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all those involved.
Look at that. That’s a kid learning to play the flute.
Oh, I’m so glad that the next generation is interested in it and passing it on.
“Inari and White foxes”
This is another standard of kagura. This program is the deity “Inari” who cultivates rice with his servants, the foxes.
Speaking of foxes, they jump. But it’s hard to play the fox.
Even the role of Inari, which looks so easy, is not easy because you have to show your dignity and integrity.
“Hachiman”
The brochure says that this “Hachiman” is a dance to exterminate evil spirits with a bow.
The Hachiman is the deity of war, and warlords have worshipped since ancient times. In Kamakura city, which was the center of the Kamakura Shogunate, Hachiman Shrine, which enshrines the Hachiman deity, is still an object of worship for the people.
Ending “Sanjin”
The fact that “Sanjin” is out there means it’s over. Oh, I didn’t expect the rice cake throwing.
Finally, the Kagura people greeted us. By the way, where’d that guy go?
Hehehe, I’ve gotten a lot of them.
You, when did you…?
The number of audience has decreased after the intermission, so the competition had gone down a lot. After all, there’s good fortune in leftovers. Good things come to those who wait. Everybody has to see the kagura until the end.
What a guy.
I’ll give you a piece of candy. The time is 2:30. Isn’t it just the right time for a snack? Now, let’s go home. I’m looking forward to the next kagura. I look forward to seeing you again.
Mmmmm……
After this, I heard they went for a walk around Ashikaga City.
Report: The Lion dance (Shishimai) in Sawai, urban Tokyo
It is impossible to talk about folk performing arts in Japan without discussing “Shishimai”. Although Shishi means lion, this is not a real lion. The original source is said to have come from India, so it is said that a real lion had been an object of worship there. However, as it spread throughout the West, China, Korea and Nepal, it became an imaginary spiritual animal. Some say that Chinese emperors had lions, so it’s possible that they knew about the real lion up to that point.
Date: Sunday closest to July 25 (Most often the fourth Sunday of the month)
Place: Yagumo shrine, 2-902 Sawai, Okutama town, Tokyo
Access: A few minutes walk from Sawai Station on the JR Oume Line. It takes about one and a half hours to get to Sawai from either Tokyo or Shinjuku.
Shishimai (lion dance)’s history
It is said to have been introduced to Japan around the 6th century, at the same time as Buddhism. In 752, when the Great Buddha was built at Todaiji (東大寺) Temple as a national project, the lion dance was performed. It is said that half of the population of the time was involved in the construction of the Great Buddha, and about 10,000 people gathered for the unveiling of the statue. It is said that this is how the lion dance spread across the country.
However, there are various routes as to how it had been introduced to Japan, and thus a variety of lion dances have been born. It is said that there are now about 8,000 of them active. Shishimai can be divided into two main groups: Ise-Daikagura (伊勢太神楽) style and Furyu (風流) style. The Ise-style dance is performed by two people, while the Furyu-style dance is performed by one person holding a small drum called Kakko. However, it is so diverse that there is naturally a mix of these as well. The Ise-Daikagura-style is distributed in western Japan, while the Furyu-style is mostly distributed in eastern Japan.
Introduction of the Lion dance of Sawai
This time, this site is going to introduce Shishimai in Tokyo. The main style in Kanto region (including Tokyo) is three units of “one-man shishi dancers” comprising one group. Nevertheless, there is a variety of lion dances in Kanto, and even in Tokyo there is diversity. This time, I would like to take a look at one from the Okutama area first. The Okutama area may be the closest vacation spot for those living in Tokyo. It has ravines, waterfalls, mountains, and scenic beauty. It can be reached from the center of Tokyo in about an hour by train. An area that many people visit in summer to cool off. There are groups that practice canoeing on the river, and many groups enjoy hiking and camping. It is precisely because of such an area that the cohesion of the community is rather strong and there are many performing arts that have been passed down.
As we pass Ome (青梅), we start to see mountains around us, and the atmosphere starts to change. As most of the passengers are backpackers, the Okutama (奥多摩) area is just around the corner. There are reasonable hiking trails, mountain climbing trails, and ravines around the area, and the passengers get off at their desired destinations. When you get off the train, you find yourself in a quiet village surrounded by summer mountains, where the bustle of the city has disappeared. In the middle of the village, there is a small shrine. It looks just like an ordinary house. You would feel as if you are visiting a neighbor’s farmhouse. It’s Sawai Yagumo (沢井八雲) Shrine. This is the stage for today’s lion dance. As you walk up the stairs, you find a sandy stage about 10 meters square, surrounded by the shrine in front and audience seats on either side. The lion dance starts at 8:30 in the morning. But in the morning, the main activity is walking around the village. They walk around street by street performing their dance. This is not just to present themselves in public, but to celebrate the prosperity of the village and drive away the evil spirits.
After lunch, they return to the shrine around 1:30 to perform a variety of acts. There are three lions. Two males and one female. The male lions are the elder and the younger. And four Hanagasa join them. This is the basic style. There are many theories as to why this style was adopted, but here in Sawai, it is said to represent the sun, moon, and stars. In Sawai, it is said to represent the sun, moon, and stars, and the four flower hats represent the four heavenly kings who protect the Buddha in Buddhism. The three lions are called ”Oh (elder)” lion, “Waka” (young) lion, and “Me (female)” lion.
the elder lion
the young lion
the female lioness
Hira-gurui 平狂い
The first performance is called “Hira-gurui”. In lion dance, a violent dance is often called “Kurui (mad dance)”. As the name suggests, this is also an intense dance. The age range of performers is wide, and this basic dance is usually performed by junior high to high school students. However, the ground below is soft sand. It’s like dancing on the beach, and we can imagine how exhausting it is.
It’s the height of summer. It’s hot. There is an electric fan running in front of the building, but it doesn’t help much for cooling. So, if there’s a pause in the middle or at the end of the dance, there are people who fan the dancers.
Kurenai-gakari 紅がかり
The next step is “Kurenai (deep red) gakari”. The lion dance often has a performance with this name. The word “kakari” seems to be used in the sense of relating to or showing interest in the subject. As the name implies, three rogues with deep red cloths come out and play with the lion. The lion’s interest in the red reminded me of a Spanish bullfight.
During the breaks, the famous local sake “Sawanoi” is served, and pickles are passed around. It was all very thoughtful. It doesn’t matter if you take it or not. In the plaza below the shrine, simple meals and beer are sold at a reasonable price, but if you want to eat well, it is best to bring your own food. There are no big stores or convenience stores nearby.
Tachi-gurui 太刀狂い
As the name suggests, a lion is entangled with a sword (Tachi means sword). Most of the swords are imitation, here they use imitation swords too. However, it was just barely enough to shave off 20%. They are almost serious about it. That’s why there is a sense of urgency in the air, as if a slight mistake could be made. It looks as if a lion and a man are engaged in a tense battle. As in any other performance, this one requires special training. The power of the lion dance can be seen in such a way.
Sao-gakari 竿掛かり
Let’s go !
I’m still afraid.
There’s no wall that we can’t cross.
The lion dance sometimes has a representation of life. The same is true of this program. A pole (sao) is passed in the center. The lions are interested in the pole. But they are too scared to go over it. They try again and again, but each time they run back. They return with their hands behind their backs, as if they are expressing their fear with their whole body. And it is the female lion who is the first to cross the pole. The performance varies from each group of lion dance , but it is usually the female lion who is the first to cross the pole. And the elder lion is the one who hesitates until the end. It’s as if women are quicker to make decisions in life, and men who have too much stuff they don’t need are slower to adapt to change.
Mejishi-gura 雌獅子蔵
There is a performance in which a female lioness is hiding in every lion dance. I’m even wondering if that’s the reason why there are three lions two male lions and a female lioness. Simply put, it is a love triangle.
It starts out with the setting where the lions are on a journey. Eventually, the fog gets thicker and only the lionesses disappear. The two males panic and look around for her. They decide to split up and search for her. So far, there are no problems. After this, the young lion finds the female lioness first, but does not tell the elder lion. The elder lion is desperately searching for her. Eventually, he finds the two lions. He says, “Oh, I didn’t know they were here… Naturally, he was very angry. The young lion doesn’t even apologize, and a fierce battle ensues. This fight is one of the highlights of the story.
While they were fighting, the fog thickened again and the lioness disappeared. This is no time to fight. Once again, the two animals split up to look for her. This time, the elder lion finds the lioness first. If you get hit, hit back. The same thing happens again.
This fog thickening of fog is expressed by the densely packed Hanagasa hats on all sides. And finally the hanagasa return to their original positions, and the lions dance together as if nothing had happened. I always wonder. Why did the old people create this kind of performance? Is it a warning or an irony? In any case, the person who created the original must have been quite a connoisseur.
Gokito 御祈祷
The final performance is called “purification. At the end of the day, evil spirits are driven away, the place is cleansed, and the dance is concluded.
It ends at five in the evening. The Okutama area is a little cooler than the city center. The lion dance depicted on the back of stuff is dancing proudly. And so, one by one, summer comes to an end. You may look back at the road your came from, feeling as if the sound of lion dance drums and flutes are still echoing, but all you see is a quiet village that has regained its daily life. The fog in the mountains seemed to have lifted. The day is long. Let’s go home slowly.
Report: Would you mind spending a calm day at a place away from urban noise ? ~Part 4 Yuki Suwa shrine Daidai-Kagura~
Finally the special feature article, “Let’s go to the city to watch local Kagura during beautiful cherry blossoms season”, this is the last of the series. Two guides who took you to various kagura till now will take and guide you this time too. Hey, two guys, are you ready? OK, let’s start!
*If you want to know who they are, read the article, part 1.
Date; 3rd April Location; Kamiyamakawa 160, Yuki city, Ibaraki prefecture Access; about 7 kilometers from Yuki 結城 station. To get to Yuki from Tokyo, you take Ueno-Tokyo line(JR line, bound for Utsunomiya. It takes 1.5 hours), and change at Oyama, for Mito line (JR). It takes 15 minutes.
Ibaraki prefecture
from Tokyo to Yuki
image is for illustration purpose
Oh,no! 7 kilometers is a long way to walk. I can’t walk.
Don’t worry. In this station, there is a corner to rent a bicycle. You pay \500 and \1,000 for deposit, you can rent a bicycle for a day. When you return it, the \1,000 deposit will be refunded to you. (as of 2020)
Bicycle? Certainly, it’s a good deal (cheaper). But I didn’t expect you to suggest riding a bicycle.
Is there something wrong for a deity to get on a bicycle? It takes about 20 minutes by bicycle.
OK,OK. Anyway let’s just go.
Introduction
Isn’t this shrine cozy and modest? Cherry blossoms seem to bless the festival. The kagura-den is dressed up today. Oh, several booths by local people sell some food and drinks. Shaved ice, Yakitori (Japanese kebabs), steamed potatoes and Amazake (a sweet fermented rice drink). What time does kagura start?
You are really greedy. I wonder if it is too early to sell shaved ice. Well, the Shinto ritual starts at noon, so kagura will start in 45 minutes.
1.”Dance of Gogyo”
Kagura’s first program has began. The program board says “Dance of Gogyo”… What does “Gogyo” mean?
This name comes from the two principles of ancient Chinese. One is the philosophy of “Yin and Yang”, another is the thought of “Gogyo”. “Yin and Yang” is negative and positive. The ancient people thought that the universe had derived from Yin and Yang. Apart from that, they also thought that the universe consisted of five elements, that is, wood, fire, earth, metal, and water. Finally, they reached the conclusion that these thoughts made it possible to explain everything. These philosophies were introduced to Japan in the 6th century, and had had a great influence. Do you understand?
I guess I understand the outline. So, black and white dancers appear in this program, don’t they?
Yes. Although this story may seem difficult, this thought has affected the lifestyle of Japanese until today. For example, when Japanese decide on the date of weddings, they set a date based on this theory.
I thought better of you. You are a genuine deity guide.
Aha!
2.”Sarutahiko”
That’s dance of Sarutahiko. I was waiting for him. It’s about time!
Moves of this dancer’s Sarutahiko have the same feature in Kanto area. It’s a very magical action to expel evil spirits from the stage.
3. “An archer”
He is handsome.
He is a deity of an archer. He shoots an arrow to drive away evil spirits.
Look at the papers in front of the stage. Many names are on the papers. What do they mean?
They are the names of sponsors. They offer sweets, liquor, money and so on.
Many sweets! I can have high hopes for “mochinage (the throwing-many-things ceremony to celebrate).
I knew you would say that.
4. “The old man holding a sword”
He is not an old man. His old face shows thoughtfulness and consideration. His name is “Omoikane”. Do you remember this name?
Yes. He is the most intelligent deity. When “Amaterasu” had hidden behind the Iwato, he was the key deity to devise the plan to bring her out. Is that right?
These foxes are good looking and their clothes are classy.
They are the messengers of the deity for planting rice. They are not just foxes.
That fox is going to throw something here…Oh, no. He threw it in a different direction. He is pretty clever!
Aren’t they male and female according to the title?
Maybe..This program, as you would think, took 15 minutes, nevertheless, others just took 10 minutes.
7. “Rice harvesting”
8. “Ebisu”
The audience has gathered before I knew it. That’s Ebisu. He is popular. At once, he is going to fish something.
Oh, sake! It looks heavy.
Oh, did you look at that? That’s money!
That is gift money.
You only mention him getting things, but actually he does a lot of giving too. He is a deity who “gives fortune”.
He finally has fished a red snapper. Look at his triumphant expression. But why is a red snapper auspicious in Japan?
It’s a simple reason. When people want to express congratulation or happiness, they say “medetai” in Japanese. “Tai” means red snapper. It’s a pun or word play. In addition, this fish’s color is red and looks good. Red is considered to protect us from evil.
How simple-minded Japanese are.
You, too. Don’t forget that you are figments of their imagination.
9. “dance of Uzume”
“Ameno Uzume” is coming. When it comes to “Uzme”….
“Iwato biraki” or “Tenson-korin”. →*please see “Reference”/Japan mythology
Yes. Now she comes out on the stage, Iwato-biraki is to come.
10. “Tajikarao~Amano Iwato-biraki”
Here comes Tajikarao. This is the scene of “Iwato-biraki”. He took off the Sakaki (species of ever green) branches at the corner. This represents “Iwato”.
So does that mirror represent “Amaterasu”?
Yes. The direction of kagura like this can often be seen all over Japan. Amaterasu is a deity of the sun. A mirror is a symbol of the sun in Shintoism.
11. Ending~”Ohyamatsumi”
He has three eyes! Is he a yokai creature?
No, he is a deity named “Ohyamatsumi”. He often comes out towards the end of Kagura in the Kanto area. When it comes to Ohyamatsumi, it is the end in no time. The ending of kagura in Kanto area is…..
How many things there are! People throw things which were carried in relay by humans a while ago. Those things are not only sweets but also cup noodles and some foods. It’s great.
Many gifts which were piled up as a mountain are vanishing one by one. Are human beings greedy or generous? I’m not sure which is right.
That’s human!
Anyway, we went around many kaguras in Kanto area. What do you think of them?
I am getting to know the form of kagura in this area a little. They have a certain form but each has different features. I want to go to many different kagura. Didn’t you introduce a kagura of Ohmiya Sumiyoshi shrine you belong to?
Yes. There are many kaguras that I haven’t introduced yet in this area.
I want to watch the others as many as I can.
Sounds good! But, to be honest, you just want to get many sweets, don’t you?
You get it!
Report: Would you mind spending a calm day at a place away from urban noise?~part 3 Yamanashi Oka shrine Daidaikagura
Date: 4th & 5th April Location Kasugai town Shizume 1696, Fuefuki city, Yamanashi prefecture Access It takes about two hours by express “Kaiji” (JR line) from Tokyo to Isawa onsen station. From the station, about 20 minutes on foot.
Yamanashi prefecture
access from Tokyo
Introduction
This time two guides are going to take you to the Yamanashi Oka shrine again. Yes, you are already familiar with them, Sarutahiko, a deity and Modoki, a traditional comedian.
Sarutahiko and Modoki visit the shrine
Isawa-onsen station
It takes quite some time, doesn’t it?
It is about 1.2 or 1.4 kilometers from the station.
Why didn’t you take a taxi. Moreover, though the station’s name is hot spring (onsen means hot spring in Japan) I can’t feel any atmosphere like hot springs.
Don’t be winging! We came here to watch and guide a kagura, not to take a bath.This shrine has a long and distinguished history. It is said that Yamanash prefecture’s name is was taken after this shrine. Have you heard the name “Takeda Shingen 武田信玄” ?
Sorry but I don’t know.
“Takeda shingen” is a famous warlord who had ruled this region about 450 years ago. People in this prefecture have respected and loved him till now. He is a kind of hero in this region.
And what?
This kagura is performed to wish for his victory when he went to war.
Oh, really? By the way, we are walking toward the mountain opposite from the town of hot springs. Is this the right way?
flags tells the festival
the Hon-den 本殿
Here we are. This is the shrine.
The small kagura-den is the center of the precincts. This kagura-den has a corridor like a bridge between the kagura-den and a dressing room. This is the feauture of this shrine.
before midday
first program~a deity of planting rice It starts about 10 am and is played for 20 minutes.
The mask looks old but good. I feel history and tradition.
You are getting to learn about watching a kagura. If I were to add something, dancers continue playing as long as they live, especially men. Now the group of dancers consists of about 30 people. All are volunteers. And I have to tell you at first, this kagura has no elements of comedy.
That’s too bad.
Oh, talking about a deity of agriculture, here comes a fox as a messenger of a deity. Now, how energetic he is.
This fox is a very popular and familiar character in this kagura. A man who plays this role has to have acting talent.
And he has to have physical strength as much as acting talent, doesn’t he?
You may be right about the point that the fox is more energetic than the player acting as a deity of planting rice at least,
a dance of ”Ameno Uzume” It starts about 10:45 for 20 minutes.
A player who plays the role as Ameno Uzume often wears a kind of “Okame” mask or something similar, but she wears nothing.
In this kagura group, the woman is called “princess”. They are to graduate this group by the time they reach high school age.
”Four archers“ It starts at about 11 am and plays for 20 minutes.
Coming out are four men, the stage looks narrow. Why won’t they bump into each other?
They have practiced extensively throughout the year, and every night before the festival. How about your case?
Me? I am always in a willy-nilly way. I play by ear.
if it’s really, you are absolutely fool or genius
Dance of Sarutahiko It starts at about 11:30 and plays for 20 minutes
Oh yes! Sarutahiko is coming out. But, is he really Sarutahiko? His face is not red. I have always expected Sarutahiko having a red face.
Right, he is just Sarutahiko. I guess the color of the mask had worn off because it’s too old.
Intermission
the Hon-den of the shrine
It’s lunch break for one hour. Let’s walk around the shrine.
Sounds good. I see trees of cherry blossoms in the precincts, but outside the shrine, many peach trees are distinctive.
Actually, Fuefuki city is the largest producer of peaches in Japan. The peach festival* is held this season.
That explains why there are many peach trees on my way here.
Second part ~afternoon
”Iwato-biraki” It starts at 1 pm. *please confer→Japan mythology
Today is very fine. Musicians couldn’t help looking at the flowers.
Many deities appear on the stage in this program. Because it represents the scene where all the deities gathered at Amano-Yasugawara to solve the problem when Amaterasu, the sun deity, had hidden.
You are right. Many deities appear on the stage one after another.
Can you see the black board at the center of the stage? That is the “Amano-iwato”(the door made of rock).
Ebisu, a deity of fortune
a deity of agriculture
a deity of battle
Many deities come in, so we can watch dances of deities who don’t perform their own programs today.
Ebisu is also on. By watching this program only, we can say we have seen most of kagura. It’s a bargain.
It seems that there are so many deities that it’s hard to find a place to sit down. When will this end?
Look, that’s powerful walking. And his face has black lines like Kabuki’s “Kumadori”. In Japanese traditional Kabuki 歌舞伎, lines (it is said “Kumadori”) on a face represent powerful and strong character. I’m sure he is “Tajikarao”, The most powerful deity. He must open the “Iwato” and pull out “Amaterasu”. Finally this program will reach a climax.
Hey,look at that. The black board that Tajikarao holds is “Amano-Iwato”.
Is that girl who wears a golden crown on her head “Amaterasu”?
Yes. This is a scene where every deity is pleased to have light of the sun come back. This is the most famous happening in Japanese mythology.
What time is it now?
It’s 2:30 pm. As one would expect, this program has took one and half hours.
”Black old man” and “Two swords“
”Four swords men”
The men holding swords come in again. As expected it is said “The kagura for going to the field”, there are many programs in which the sword is used.
This program has another name “Kume mai (dance)”. We can find this name in the records of the first emperor. The records say that this dance was played for the first emperor’s victory of battle.
Really?This is a really traditional and important program.
So they say when Takeda Shingen was going to war, this was played to wish his victory.
Ending
His name is “Ohyamatsumi”. He is the main enshrined deity. After his playing, they are to throw many gifts every time.
I got many gifts this time again. Kagura is a happy event. By the way, is this kagura held two more times?
Yes. It is held tonight and tomorrow.
Would you mind watching another two more times?
Good! You are finally coming to recognize the attraction of kagura.
So we have to stay tonight, don’t we?
I have noticed your intention. You don’t care about kagura, you only wish to take a bath at hot spring, don’t you?
Oh, you understand. Let’s go.
to be continue to part 4
Report: Would you mind spending a calm day at a place away from urban noise? Part 2~Iidama shrine Daidai kagura~
Date; 1st Sunday April, every year Location; Hirose town 2-2-8, Maebashi city, Gunma prefecture Access; It takes 20 minutes from Naebashi station (JR) on foot Mebashi is 1 and half hours from Tokyo
Gunma prefecture
Introduction
Iidama shrine from Tokyo
This time, we will introduce “Iidama shrine Daidai kagura”. This Kagura event is held at the Iidama shrine every spring. “Daidai” is a word usually used in the event in the Kanto area and means “bigger and bigger”. Tears ago, kagura was sometimes held for people to get their wishes. The stronger the people’s wish was, the bigger the scale of the kagura became, because they paid a lot of money. So, the name of the kagura became “Dai kagura” from merely “kagura”. Dai means big. Finally, it is said to have come to be called “Daidai” kagura, according to some views.
This period (from end of March to the begining of April, about two weeks) is one of the best season in Japan. Many cherry blossoms bloom all at once and Japan is covered with the color of pale pink. So, if you go to this event, you would see beautiful scenery all over this area.
around the shrine
theKagura-den
This kagura is performed at lunchtime from about 11 am to 3 or 4 pm every year.
*This article was written from the writer’s experience visiting in 2017.
This time once again two men (Modoki and Sarutahiko) seem to be ready to guide you.
Here we are. This is Iidama shrine.
This shrine is in the middle of a residential district, isn’t it?
Yes. Well, what time is it now?
It’s about 11 am, just on time for staring. But the kagura event does not start yet, does it?
Such things happen. I would use this spare time effectively to introduce the feautures of this kagura. This is the kagura typical in Kanto area. The first half is very ritual and the second half becomes comical.
Do people like me get on the stage?
Yes,. Performing only a refined and sophisticated program would make the audience bored.
20 minutes later.
The first program seems to be starting.
First half~ritual part
At first, two deities come in. “Sarutahiko“
Are they Sarutahiko?
Yes, we often get on the stage at first because we are guides for all deities.*→Reference/Japan mythology, please
This is a rare program. Two men are playing.
Right. It’s rare in Kanto area. But four men get on the stage in Okayama area.
Really? In addition, one mask has black beard and mustache and the other has white ones. And they have long eyebrows! They look like whiskers.
THey are my colleagues. Don’t quibble about deities’ face. This is the refined program.
Next program “Four sieties“. Four men without mask are dancing slowly.
I guess that the moves of this dance are simple but skilled.
You come to understand kagura at last.
Thank you.
But stay focused and study even harder.
Oh, are you giving me a lecture again?
Next “Uzume or Okame”. One dancer is holding Gohei (staff with plaited paper streamers in Shinto) and a bell comes on stage. THe feature of this dance is a slipping like movement.
Uzume looks like she’s having fun.
The face of the mask has small eyes, long -slit and narrow eyes, and slender face with large jowls. This is for Okame.
It means funny face?
Although it may vary according to the time, this face is characterized by stylized beautiful woman figures.
Different times, different minds.
Intermission from 12:20 pm to 1:00 pm. Next program, “Tajikarao“. He has a staff like a shield.
Have you heard his name?
Of course. I am a humble member of kagura. When Amaterasu had hidden behind Amano-Iwato (a door by rock), he took it off.
Yes. He is the most powerful deity.
He has long eyebrows, too. And what is that? Long hair like a beard grows from under the eyes. It is an eyebrow or beard?
Shut up and look at his action. It seems to raise the wind!
Sure. It is getting a little cold from the wind.
He is coursing the wind by his power.
No way!
Next program; “Ameno Koyane“. One person wearing white old man mask comes on the stage. He is holding a bell and a white fan.
Have you heard his name?
No.
He is a clever deity. At an affair of “Iwato-biraki”(Amaterasu behind the rock door. →Reference/Japan mythology), he took measures with Omoikane (a deity of the cleverest). And he is the founder of the Fujiwara clan. The Fujiwara clan has reigned this country for 1,000 years as the aide of emperor.
He looks gentle and elegant. He doesn’t like he has political power. A man can’t be judged by his appearance. Shoot! not man, yes deity.
Second half~comedy part
At 1:30 pm. “Tanemaki”. It means sowing seeds. A fox appeared following an woman holding rice plant.
Is she a deity of agriculture? I considered a deity of agriculture an old man. It is rare case.
Probably I guess she is a messenger of Inari.
A fox is jumping crouching position. This is a popular image of a fox in kagura. A woman gave some rice plant and has left. Following, two men appear. They both wear a yellow cloth and one man wears a red towel on his head.
Hey, omg! Finally our colleague comes on the stage.
I’m sure that he might cause an incident,too.
Unexpectedly, he is competent. After being taught how to plant form the fox, he started working easily and joyfully. When he is planting seeds just like dancing, another man comes in. He wears a yellow cloth and yellow towel on his head. He is bringing a big basket. After he puts the basket down, a man with red towel begind to teach him how to plant the seeds.
Oh, I see. They are vaudeville actors. The man with the red towel is a straight man and the man with the yellow towel is the comical character.
Aren’t they the same role?
Yes, but they are two of a kind.
So, teach me what they are talking.
Yes, it’s easy.
*Following the conversation is Modok’s fictional transration.
Do as I do. At first you hold this tool, you break up the ground.
Why?
I don’t know. After you break up, throw these beans as I do.
What these?
I don’t know either.
While they were doing this, one woman appears. She wears a cooking coat. She is called “Okame” or “Otafuku”. She begins to take care this and that.
These are seeds. If you throw on the ground, these will grow up into rice.
Following Okame, an old man appears.
He is not just an old, he is a great deity, “Inari”.
Really? Thankful and fortune for humans like us.
Nevertheless, the Inari did almost nothing. He just smoked a long pipe while looking over spring scenes.
Why does Inari do nothing?
He is a deity. A deity will be a such a being. Anyways, what are they doing?
Ah, they have tied their each hands though they wanted to tie straws. This is a typical comedy style.
Okame teaches them how to use the tool
Inari doesn’t get fazed by anything. That’s a deity.
He looks only lazy to me.
After all, Inari and Okame left. Two of Modokis begin putting rice into a big straw bag.
Ouch! Stop. You are putting my head into bag together with rice.
I’m sorry. I got to absorb in doing this.
Really?
And now, keep doing it. I’ll keep open the bag.
OK, I’ll try.
Ouch!…
What are they doing?
This is Modoki. (laughing)
Two Modokis managed to finish. Next, they have to bring it.
Well, sit down there. I’ll help you carry the bag.
Red finished tying. Yellow wants to stand but cannot. Red helps him to carry the rope.
Then, fox comes out again.
It’s too heavy. It wouldn’t budge.
WHat are you doing? You are tying the rope to the pillar.
No wonder it’s heavy.
Pull yourself together. Cheer up!
Aren’t they hasty and careless?
That’s Modoki.
They are left finally with the fox. This program takes over 30 minutes. Next program “Daikoku’s mallet”. Daikoku is a deity of fortune. He always has a little mallet. The little mallet is a famous staff which people imagine as soon as people hear the name “Daikoku”. Daikoku swings the mallet, then a lot of treasures appear immediately.
Daikoku as a deity of fortune
People have gathered again, haven’t they?
Most people know when Ebisu or Daikoku appears, happy time is coming.
The Modoki with his head covered by a red towel comes out again. I don’t think this program is going to end well.
Really?
Look at the stage. Daikoku gives modoki something.
He seems at a loss. Ah, he has given the staff to the audience.
Daikoku gave a bell, mirror, and the mallet at last and he has left the stage.
Do as I do
It’s an important roll.
Okame comes out and teaches how to use the mallet to modoki.
Hey, cheer up.
Okame is a hasty,too?
Daikoku swings the mallet to bring out some treasures but….What does his swinging the mallet make appear? I still doubt whether this program is going to end well.
Modoki swung the mallet and a strange being has appeared. It wears an all-pink clothes and has a pink face.
What is that?
I don’t know. I guess he or she is a monkey from the face.
Anyway, modoki ties the monkey-like creature to a pillar. Modoki starts dancing in front of the monkey-like creature but it has vanished without noticing.
What happens? The monkey-like creature has come to the audience.
He is greeting the audience. Modoki is upset and brings the monkey-like creature back to the stage.
After all, what does red modoki try?
I guess he will try to teach dancing.
Modoki holds a rope, and the monkey-like creature is dancing. He is like a monkey trainer.
Suddenly the mochinage ceremony starts! Ｉwasn’t expecting that!
Look at that. Once again, a strange man with a red face has come. Who is he?
I’m not sure. Maybe he looks like an ogre. There are too many strange happenings.
This is because Daikoku left all his work to Modoki. He is responsible for all the happenings.
Oh, are you angry?
At last, Daikoku, Modoki, and the monkey-like creature drive away the ogre by throwing beans and all the cast have left.
What on earth has happened. Your guess was right.
Maybe they wanted to represent throwing away bad things and wishing for happiness. But I can’t explain this program in more detail.
”Zougi and Taihou” Two deities talk to each other, and wish for happiness.
”Kagutuchi“
Do you know who this deity is?
I don’t know.
He is a deity of fire. He can burn out everything.
Oh my God! That’s scary.
The last program. The blue face comes out holding a bell and a plate. He dances and throws many sweets or rice cakes and the program is over.
How about this kagura?
Although this kagura had some difficult parts to understand, I got many sweets. That’s right. All is well that ends well.
You are greedy till the end, deplorable!
to be continued to Part 3
Report: Would you mind spending a calm day at a place away from urban noise ? ~4 kaguras in Kanto area in spring~ vol.1
Toiday, I’ll introduce 4 kafuras which is held in the most beautiful season of blossoming cherries within 2 hours from Tokyointroduce.
introduce four kaguras (Japnanese traditional folk performing art) in cherry blossoms blooming season
If you ask some Japanese which season is the best to visit, most people will answer that it is for the blooming cherry blossoms. In this season, cherry blossoms begin to cover Japan starting from the south region and moving up north for two months. The bolssoming status in each region is reported on TV or radio. Many people go out, dressed a new in spring clothes upon hearing such. The mountains, the rivers, the towns all views change from dark color to pale pink.
a shrine with cherry blossomsin Kamakura
cherry blossoms cover Tokyo
Through out history, people have loved cherry blossoms. One famous poet composed the poem (waka 和歌) which reads “Hopefully, I will die under the blossoms in the spring time.” And another poet said; “If it were not for/ cherry blossoms in the world/ How peaceful and calm/ The heart in spring could be.” confer ; http://dharmaechoes.blogspot.com/2010/04/heart-in-spring.html The cherry trees has had strong influence on Japanese lifestyles. The cherry trees represent, so to speak, Japanese culture itself. In this season, if you see traditional kagura 神楽, you can grasp the whole Japanese culture in one day.
The following 4 kaguras will be taken up here today. Every kagura is held in April.
・Fuji sengen shrine Daidai Kagura on the 1st Fujioka city, Gunma prefecture ・Iidama shrine Daidai Kagura on the 2nd Maebashi city, Gunma prefecture ・Yamanashi oka shrine Daidai Kagura on the 4th Fuefuki city, Yamanashi prefecture ・Kamiyamakawa Daidai Kagura on the 5th Yuki city, Ibaraki prefecture
I guess that each kagura is worth watching. You can feel Japanese culture, besides you can get a lot of good luck fortune. THis is not metaphor. Of course, you can get a mystical feeling in a shrine. Moreover, you can get many “good luck” items. This is why “mochimaki” is held while kagura’s at all these shrines. What is “mochimaki” ? Please read the following text if you wish know more about it.
Modoki (Hyottoko) and Sarutahiko
These two people seem ready to guide you, this time. Then, could you two introduce yourselves, please ?
Sarutahiko is my name, from Ohmiya sumiyoshi kagura in Sakado city, Saitama prefecture. And let me tell you first of all , I am not human being, I am a deity, OK?
My name is Modoki, sometimes I am called Hyottoko. I am often called the comic or clown in festival.
Well, let’s go to watch kagura with them.
1. Fuji-sengen shrine Daidai kagura
Date; 1st, April Location; Fujioka town 1152, Fujioka city, Gunma prefecture Access; 10-minutes walk from Fujioka 藤岡 station (JR line), To get to Fujilka from Tokyo, you take Ueno-Tokyo line (JR line, bound for Takasaki), and change at Kurakano 倉賀野 for Hachiko line 八高線. It takes about 2 hours.
Gunma prefecture
from Tokyo to the shrine
*This article is written based on the experience when the writer visited the place in 2016. The program procedures are basically the every year.
Fujioka station
How beautiful the cherry trees are!
There are few cherry blossoms trees in the precinct Shinto shrine..
Why?
People often plant evergreen trees because these are thought to live forever just like deities. But, in this shrine, the entrance area has many cherry blossoms, the beauty of which delights visitors.
So I guess the cherry trees were thought superior to faith?
the view from the Hon-den
First half
the Hon-den
The precinct is wide. Main hall (Hon-den 本殿) is at the center. This building is on a hill which overlooks the view of whole precinct. This hill is old grave. This kagura-den 神楽殿 (hall for playing kagura) is right in front of the main hall. This building has two stories, the stage is on the second floor. You can watch from under the hall or from the main hall. which is a little away. The kagura starts at 11:30 am on schedule.
Quite a few people gathered more than I expected. Especially the number of children stood out.
I guess the reason is because they are in spring holiday.
Spring holiday? We, all deities, work without holiday.
First progarm is “Omoikane“. The player white cloth dances alone, holding a bell and staff of pleased paper stream.
What is the thing the player holds?
This is “Gohei (paper streamer)”, which Shinto priests often use at ceremonies. We can often see this from. They that the deity lodges in these things temporally.
And players take the same action at four corners. Why?
It means that it is significant to appease the earth. The feature of this kagura is very ritual and hardly any dramatic elements. So, players sometimes turn back to the audience because they play not the audience but for the deity.
I’m sorry to say there is no part for me in this scene.
Second program is “two Koyanes“. Two players are on the stage. They were white and black mask of old men. They dance bisymmetrically with paper streamer and bells, too.
How are programs named?
The names of programs are named on each deity. For example, “Koyane” is named after the called “Ameno Koyane”.
Third program is “three deities of Sumiyoshi“. Three players appear on the stage who each wear cloth of different colors, white and yellow. They dance symmetrically with great skill amis falling of paper of pale pink prtals.
Look at that. I think that you can feel fundamental elements of Japanese culture. Cherry blossoms falling and watching kagura. It is hard to get such feeling from another event.
I see.
Every program is short which lasts within 10~15 minutes. Toward the end of this program, people gather around the kagura-den.
More people have gathered. Do they love this program?
No. They are human as well as you.
Many people appered on the stage, and began to throw many things.
What is going to being?
This is “mochinage” ceremony. “Mochi” means originally Japanese rice cake. But, recentry, “mochi” changed to various other things, like sweets. This is a congratulation present. Of course, all are free. Most of the audience gather to get this present. Anybody can get this. There is no limit numbers. You can get many sweets by yourself.
That’s good.
But what you must not forget is that these are presents of fortune for everybody. Not only for you? OK?
I see, I see.
After the ceremony of mochinage, the program starts again. Next program is “Miko mai“. “Miko” is a shrine maiden consecrated to deity. Miko-mai is a type of dance performed by “miko”. The way to dance is different in every region. Here, four elementary school girls are performing. This is shorter than other programs which lasts within 5 minutes.
”Sarutahiko“. One player weares red and long-high nose mask and holds a bell and long sword in his hands.
Oh, he is my colleague. We are oroud guides for our fellows deities. (Reference/Japanese mythorogy)
He looks more powerful and stronger than you.
Darm it. Your eyes are kortholes.
”Miko-dance” again.
”Iwatobiraki” →please refer to “Reference”→”Japanese mythology” One player wears black clothes red “hakama” and holds gold folding fan. “Hakama” is Japanese skirt for formal wear. He is deity named “Tajikarao 手力男”. He plays the role of removing “Iwato”. In this kagura, a blackboard represent it. He takes it off, exposing a little girl traditional wear of “miko”. She represents “Amaterasu”.
After the first player leaves, “Miko-mai” plays again. And two players wearing black and white clothes and mask of old man bisymmetrically. At last, the first player “Tajikarao” appears again.
At last, mochinage ceremony is held again, and there is a lunch break. It is about 20 minutes.
Second half
Hey, get up. Kagura started again.
?? Oh, I seemed to have dozed off without realizing. Spring weather makes us sleepy.
Stop being so idle and get to work !
”A sword dance” One player has a mask of surprising and long hair. He walks powerfully swinging a sword.
His action signifies cutting evil. We can usually see the action in kagura.
You know so well.
That’s because I am a deity !
“Miko-dance” one player.
It’s beautiful !
It looks like spring of cherry blossoms come together to make one female figure.
You sometimes are so poetic despite your appearance, aren’t you?
Hey, don’t judge people by appearance.
”Ryujin (deity of dragon)“
Mochinage again.
”Hachiman” This is a deity of battle and war. He drive out evil spirits to shoot a bow.
Sago-mai
After”Sagomai” and “miko-mai“, 15 minutes intermission
Miko-mai
It is getting cool. I feel the cold wind.
Three more programs. Be patient.
Aren’t you feel cold?
Noway, I am a deity.
”Hakuhatsu (deity with white hair)”
I guess that this program is to wish for longevity. He has long white hair and wears mask of old man.
”Ebisu“
I like this program.
Why?
He is fishing. And this program is often the sign of mochinage voming.
You are so greedy !
But, it os one of the most popular programs from old times. Hey, mochi is falling down again.
Ebisu finally caught a sea bream as expected and got off. Finally, people were throwing sweets splendidly and all programs ended. It was 5 pm.
Ending
This kagura went on schedule. I think it is rare.
Yes, I hardly see something like this.
I am pleased to get many sweets. Let’s visit here again.
to be continue to vol. 2
Report: 1/35 of the most important of the folk performing art Haji Ichiryu Saibara Kagura 土師一流催馬楽神楽
Date： 1st January, 14th February, 10th April, 10th October, and day of “Tori” in December, every year Location： Washinomiya shrine Washinomiya, Kuki city, Saitama prefecture How to get there： It takes 10 minutes from Washinomiya station (Tobu Isezaki line)
※This kagura is consisted of 12 programs.
※This kagura is one of 35 an important Intangible Folk Cultural Heritage by Japanese national government.
Introduction
This kagura is called “the source of Kanto kagura” (Kanto is located in center of Honshu which is main island of Japan, and is the generic name of seven prefectures). In addition, this is one of the country designation important intangible cultural asset which there is 35. ”Sada shinno” originally started in Shimane prefecture. A Shinto priest of Sada shrine learned Noh in Kyoto about the beginning of 17th Century, and made a new kagura (so called Sada Shinno) baced on the Noh style. This kagura is known for a distinctive element. That’s the dancer is holding thing (bell, sacred staff with cut paper (heisoku 幣束), or a sakaki leaf and so on). This style of kagura started to be called “Izumo style ” and spread out in the whole country before long. This shrine is where Izumo style was accepted first. So it is called “the source of Kanto kagura”. But the first document of the kagura in this shrine was recorded in about the middle of 13th century. We don’t know whether this kagura is the same kagura of today.
Washinomiya station
I went to Washinomiya shrine on 1st January, 2015. Kuki city is located in Saitama orefecture, population of about 150,000. It is not very big town. It takes about 1 hour from Tokyo by Ueno-Tokyo lune (JR), changing at Kuki to Tobu line, next station being Washinomiya station. Washinomiya shrine is about a 10 minute-walk from Washinomiya station. We cross a red bridge on the way to the shrine. It like a cnnection between the sacred place and the regular world.
The shrine became a holy ground of animation films in these days. so we can see many persons who wear costumes of animation characters. We can find a middle-aged man who puts on a blond wig wearing sailor uniform (high school girls style ) and skirt among them. You guess that it is quite a surreal scene. Even if it is not so, this shrine is the core of faith in this area. The number of people that gathered exceeded 400,000 in there days. The shrine is quiet in usual times, but only for three days, it becomes really crowded.
First half
On those days, people make a long lines to pray, I passed by them and ran to the hall (kagura-den) where kagura was being performed.
the kagura was going to start about 10 or 10:30. When I arrived at about 11:00. The kagura had already started. The kagura-den is front of the Hon-den (main hall). So many people were there, but nobody was looking at the kagura. The audience seemed to be no more than 20 persons. On the stage, there were one masked man and two girls. The mask showed an old man smiling gently. He dance slowly holding a bell and sacred staff with cut paper (heisoku 幣束). This kagura’s feature was in a ceremonial manner with hardly any dramatic representation.
I guessed from the title that this program represented at the famous scene of Japanese mythology, “Amano iwato biraki” (see to “Reference/Japan mythology). In “Amano iwato biraki” all deities are pleased when “Amaterasu” (she is a deity of sun) comes out from where she was hidden in a big door of rock. But, it is difficult to understand such a state only by seeing it. It is significant to appease the Earth in every direction by the swinging the bell. This program took about 30 minutes.
Next program is “Hakagura“. This program is where two girls dance swinging a bell. When this program is played, people sitting on the stage play music “Saibara”.”Saibara” is a popular music in Heian period (9~10 C). When we listen to these music, we don’t feel such elements. The oldest music is called “Gagaku”. I feel this music like “Gagaku”faster in tempo. I don’t know if these music remain completely at the time, but I am filled with deep emotion. I think it worth listening to once at least because you would feel the life of ancient Japanese.
Izanagi
Izanami
Next program is based on Japanese mythology, too. This mythology says in the beginning of time, two deities, named “Izanagi” and “Izanami” gave birth this country. So, a mobile bridge is set on a stage and two players dance across the bridge. The male deity dances powerfully, the female deity dances with grace.While changing their positions they dance around a stage. This program ended at about half past 12. Then there was an intermission.
Intermission
There were many food stalls in the shrine precinct. After I ate lunch, I found a place where people were being fire using metal barrel. This area was surrounded by a double fence, and some people were direct cuttlefish. I thought it was a good system. Only people who bought, direct dried cuttlefish could enter in front of the fire. I saw quite a lot of people buying cuttlefish.
Second half
Meanwhile the kagura started again at 2 o’clock. First program, two little girls were dancing hoiding a bell. It was short.
Next program was based on mythology,too. When the grandson of “Amaterasu (a deity of sun)”, “Ninigi” goes down from his country “Amatsu kuni” to this earth, two deities got married with the meditation of “Ninigi”. One is a chaperon of Ninigi, named “Ameno Uzume“, and is a deity who had waited Ninigi’s group and led this coutry to safty, mnamed “Sarutahiko“.
Sarutahiko
Ameno Uzume
So, two dancers enter the stage. One wore a red face mask with long -high nose, and another wore a female mask. The dancer with the red mask is “Sarutahiko”, and the other is “Ameno Uzume”. Sarutahiko held a pike, and Ameno Uzume held a big staff which red pieace of paper. Two dancers faced each other across the bridge, changing their position like the program of “Izanagi and Izanami”. This kagura basically consists of such dancing. It ended at 2:20.
After short break, next program started. Three dancers each wore a mask of “okina” (old man) with long mustache and beard. They each held fans, and danced slowly making a circle. It is said that it is to express a prayer for a peace of the world.
After 30 minutes, the whole program for today ended. If you are interested in old style kagura, I recommended to watch this “Saibara kagura”. You can definitely see a noble and elegant dance program.
For more information This kagura is held at “Washinomiya shrine (branch shrine)”, 15th April. It is at “Hachiho, Washinomiya town”.
