Date: Spring through fall (peaks in April and October)
Location: Sado 佐渡 Island City, Niigata Prefecture
Access: From various locations to Niigata 新潟 Station or Niigata Airport. From there, take a bus to Niigata Port, from where there are steamers to Sado Island. From Tokyo, it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours by Shinkansen to Niigata Port. There is also a way to get there from Naoetsu 直江津 via Naoetsu Port. From Niigata Port, you can go to Ryotsu 両津 Port, and from Naoetsu, you can go to Ogi 小木 Port, which are different arrival points.

There is an island where groups of drummers go from house to house. And they are demons, no less.
That name is Sado Island. Across from Tokyo lies Niigata Prefecture. From there, it’s another 30-minute to one-hour boat ride. It is the second-largest island in Japan, after Okinawa. There is a day on that island when demons visit every home. And the people look forward to it with anticipation. They say the demons are messengers of the gods. They are called oni, and the act of them beating drums is known as “Oni taiko (ogre drums).”People say this island is a treasure trove of performing arts. Among them, the most representative is this “Oni Taiko.” The locals also call it “ondeko. From spring to fall, the sound of taiko drums echoes throughout the island, and Oni dance in the air. There are more than 120 of them. It is true that the island is as large as the 23 wards of Tokyo, or about half the size of Osaka, but there are still many of them. Let’s take a look at what kind of Oni-daiko the islanders love so much.

Festival outline or “Kado-zuke 門付け”

Oni-daiko is an extremely simple art form consisting of a single drum, a drummer, and a dancer, the Oni. Oni Taiko festivals do not have a mikoshi (portable shrine) or pull a dashi around as in regular festivals. Instead, they do something called kadozuke 門付け. Kado means gate, and tsuke means to drop in, which means to visit each door. This is an old custom in which performers go from house to house to bless their families and in return receive a reward. In the past, many performers earned their money that way, but nowadays, the main purpose is to walk around blessing each house as God’s representative, rather than for remuneration. There is Ise Kagura centered in Mie Prefecture and a group of kagura performers who still travel over a wide area in Iwate Prefecture in the Tohoku region. Therefore, even if you go to the shrine on the day of the festival, there is nothing there. After the first and last dedication at the shrine, the group goes out to the community.

A day at Oni Taiko starts early in the morning. First, the group heads to a shrine. There they dedicate first formal dance. After that, they go to the village and perform the dance from door to door. Sometimes there are more than 100 houses in a village. When a group of taiko drummers arrives, people entertain them by preparing hospitality. If requested, a designated dancer other than oni may also dance. In addition, the masks may be displayed there for a time in the house where the original masks were made, or a special dance may be performed. After visiting all the houses, they return to the shrine to perform the dedication dance. It is not unusual for the dance to end around 10:00 p.m. This is why young people are always needed for the physical strength of the dancers.

Types of Oni-daiko

There are several classifications of oni taiko according to the way it is performed. There are three major categories, and five more detailed categories are often used. In order to avoid complications, we will inquire about three types. Types include the Maehama type, Aikawa type, and Kuninaka type, named after the region.
The most commonly seen is the Kuninaka type , in which two Oni, A (open-mouthed, not “ei”) and Um (closed-mouthed), dance alternately. This type is about 60% of the total. It is a form that was adopted by masters who learned Noh in the past. Therefore, the basic movement is to use a slip. The dance is also characterized by the intensity of the “A” and the quietness of the “Um”. Sometimes Shishi ( lions) is involved, which makes the dance more dynamic.
Maehama type is two oni facing each other and dancing. Sometimes a dancer wearing a mask with only the upper half of his face, called Rouso, joins them. The roso is the highest-ranking dancer in the group.
And the Aikawa type is often seen in the northwestern part of the island. Here, oni appear but do not dance. They just stand there with a spear. Instead, a dancer wearing an old man’s mask dances with a square to hold beans.

Representative Oni-daiko

Niibo-funashimo（新穂舟下）

Ryotu-Iwakubi（両津岩首）

Aikawa Maturi（相川祭り）

The Aikawa style of Onidaiko, which began in the Aikawa district, is named Onidaiko, but despite the name, the Oni (demons) do nothing. Or, not even Oni. The main actor is an old man (a virtuous old man), holding a bean-throwing square in his hand, which can often be seen in Setsubun 節分 (a ceremony held in February to drive away evil spirits). For example, in the Aikawa district, the birthplace of the festival, two people holding long swords simply stand there. Only the ogo (master) dances to the rhythm of the taiko drums.

Kita-Kawachi Matsuri (北川内祭り）

There are many other types of oni taiko with distinctive characteristics, such as the one-legged dancing style. It is no exaggeration to say that there are as many different oni taiko as there are districts and festivals. Sado is also a region that has handed down a variety of performing arts, not only oni taiko. Every year at the end of May, a festival is held to bring together all of Sado’s performing arts. Sado is an island where old Japan can be seen everywhere, and it is well worth a visit.

Sado Ondeko dotto komu : An event that brings together all the performing arts of Sado Island https://niigata-kankou.or.jp/event/2145
Sado long ride : A cycle event with several thousand participants on a 210 km up-and-down course that circles the island at its longest point.
https://sado-biyori.com/feature/sadolog/11502/

Location; 1723 Kabasaki-cho, Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture

Date; the third Sunday in April and October

Access; It takes about two hours by local train from Tokyo to Ashikaga (JR) or Ashikaga City (Tobu Line). If travelling by Shinkansen, you will need to change at Takasaki. Approximately 6 km from Ashikaga, or Ashikaga Station.

*https://www-city-ashikaga-tochigi-jp.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=ja&_x_tr_pto=wapp Ashikaga city official

Based on the visit on 16 April 2017

prologue

In brief, the history of Japan is that rice cultivation gave rise to large-scale political forces in various parts of the country, which eventually came together in armed struggle to form one united government. These are the ancestors of the present-day Emperors. Thereafter, a long period of political rule centred on the emperor, with influential aristocrats gathered around him. They stayed in the capital cities of Nara and Kyoto, and maintained power by siphoning off revenues from their local fiefdoms. but the territory is limited. Ownership disputes and other conflicts began to arise between neighbouring lands. The nobles then had their armed men settle the disputes. The armed forces rapidly became powerful. They were the samurai. Eventually, the samurai moved into the centre of power, eventually creating their own government in Kanto (Kamakura), far from Kyoto. At the centre at this time was the Hojo clan, who seized power by destroying other clans like a Mafia war. This period lasted for about 150 years. However, the number of people dissatisfied with the Hojo clan potentially increased, leading them to overthrow the Hojo regime and create a new one in Kyoto. The Ashikaga clan was central at this time and became shoguns in the new regime. Eventually, Ashikaga’s power waned and an era of divided warlords dawned; Japan was ultimately reunified by the Tokugawa shogun, but that is a story for another time.

The Ashikaga clan’s home town is now Ashikaga City. The kagura presented here takes place in a town with such a historical background.

Kabasaki Hatiman shrine

The Kabasaki Hachimangu shrine, where the story takes place, was founded by the Ashikaga clan. As proof, the shrine has a curtain with the Ashikaga family crest on it. This report is about the kagura performed here. It is a bit far from the station, so It is therefore a good idea to hire a bike at the station. The road is flat and straight. It is easy to find. About 45 minutes on a bicycle. The area is away from the city center and the scenery is much more idyllic. Kagura is also loosely in tune with the landscape. It was scheduled to start at 10.00 am, but actually started at around 10.30 am.

The Appearance of the Hachiman Deity

First, one program without a mask. After that was the dance of the god of war, Hachiman. As befits a god of war, he takes his bow and arrow and points it in all directions. This is not to glorify warfare, but to drive away the bad spirits that lurk in the area. He protects shrines, villages and people.

Lunch break here. The locals sold Yakisoba noodles the area for 100 yen. They are almost all volunteers. Cheap. That’s why they sell so well.
The shrine is said to be associated with the Ashikaga clan, but it is plain for a family that once ruled the country (from the early 14th century to the 16th century). It is said to have originally been larger and grander, but declined as the Ashikaga regime fell. However, the decoration is fine. There was a person who told me many details, and I thought he was a local historian, but to my surprise he was a descendant of the Ashikaga clan. There are many things that can only be understood by actually going there.

After lunch

The next step is the famous opening of Ama-no-Iwato (the rock door inheaven), where the main actors are Ameno-uzume, Tajikarao and Amaterasu… Ameno-uzume only performs a short dance, and Amaterasu leaves the stage just as soon as she appears. In the end, only Tajikarao was the only prominent performer in the troupe. As village people handed down kagura, They probably omitted more and more parts that were not relevant to real life and Kagura gradually changes to a form more suited to the locality. The story of Amaterasu is important as Japanese mythology, but not so much for the people.

Let’s keep it casual and take it easy

And finally, the common people’s group appears. In case , the god Ebisu (this god represents the common people’s group) is the star of the performance. Seven gods that common people have believed in since the Middle Ages. All of them bring happiness to people. Ebisu is one of the most popular among them. That is why Ebisu plays such an important role in this kind of kagura in the village. But in reality, the main attraction is a droll duo. So, these two people fish on behalf of Ebisu and throw snacks and treats. Many children gather, but for them, this is almost the main thing. That’s why it’s a big deal. But if you look closely, they don’t keep it to themselves. Is this another merit of God?

Next to Ebisu comes a deity named Daikoku, who is as popular as he is. He is able to bring forth treasures by waving a mallet in his hand. So here is another big treat of sweets.

Next is Inari, another indispensable deity in the kagura of the village. Inari is the god of rice cultivation in general, and is served by a fox. However, in terms of order, they usually appear earlier. The audience is already in the mood for sweets, so they put rice cultivation aside and start scattering rice again. Since it is kagura, they dance on stage, but people’s attention has already turned to when they are going to throw things.

The stage is now in full “Mochi-nage (Originally, the name was derived from the throwing of rice cakes. Nowadays, various throws such as snacks or candy)” mode. The Ebisuza has begun again. Exactly the same program, exactly the same flow. This happens sometimes in kagura in the village.

Happiness for everyone

The performance ends with a purification of the stage by a mountain god called “Yama-gami” (mountain god). However, to the surprise of the audience, even the mountain deity do Mochi-nage. It is a great service. The people who had stayed until the very end were very satisfied. Good things come to those who wait. This is how kagura continues into the next year.

Day; The third Saturday in April

Location; Hoshakuji-temple 宝積寺, 1 Senbara, Ooyamazaki, Ooyamazaki-cho, Otokuni District, Kyoto Prefecture

Access; About a 10-minute walk from JR Yamazaki Station, or a 15-minute walk from Hankyu Oyamazaki Station

From Kyoto Station, it’s about 15 minutes by JR line, or about 20 minutes from Karasuma Station (in Kyoto City) via the Hankyu Line; both routes head toward Osaka and Kobe. Trains run about once every 10 minutes.

Saturday, April 17, 2026

About Hōshaku-ji Temple

Founded in the early 7th century by imperial decree. Due to its near proximity to the capital, many wars ravaged the temple, leaving it in ruins time and again; however, it was rebuilt each time and has continued to stand to this day. In particular, it is famous as the site where, in the early 16th century, the armies of Akechi Mitsuhide—who overthrew his lord Oda Nobunaga, who was on the verge of unifying the country, by accusing him of treason—and Toyotomi Hideyoshi—who pursued Mitsuhide and later succeeded in unifying the country—clashed in a decisive battle.

Because this temple is located halfway up a mountain called Tennozan, people still say things like “This is Tennozan” when they reach a critical juncture in a major undertaking. Though it’s not exactly a mountain, you do have to climb a fairly steep slope to get to the temple.

Oni’s Appearance

At 2:00 p.m., a procession of Onis, led by a monk, makes its way down the approach leading to the main hall.

It is said that this has been performed since the temple’s founding as part of a ritual called Tsuina*, in which demons are exorcised through prayer; however, the fact that, in addition to monks and demons, people dressed as the Seven Lucky Gods*—and, for some reason, even anime characters—show up is a modern touch.

*The Tsuina ceremony is a Buddhist ritual that was introduced to Japan from the Asian mainland as a way to drive away the evils of the past year and welcome the new year. However, various elements have been incorporated over time, and today it is primarily celebrated on Setsubun in February (the day marking the transition from winter to spring), with a variety of events held across the country.

→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/03/19/ceremony-to-drive-out-evil-spirits-in-nara-in-the-case-of-kofukuji-temple-and-horyuji-temple/

*→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/04/05/seven-deities-of-good-fortune-parade-celebrating-the-new-year-at-the-center-of-tokyo/

Buddhist Ceremonies

Following this, the participants enter the hall, where the monks continue their chanting. Here, a ritual known as a goma ceremony is performed. A goma ceremony is a ritual in which small pieces of firewood called goma are placed in the fire, along with offerings, as part of a prayer to the Buddha. Since the door is open, you can see inside from the outside. This allows you to confirm that the Oni is being smoked along with everything else.

At around 3:00 p.m., the ritual ends and the Onis come out. At this time, the Onis’ role is considered to be over.

There are a total of four Onis featured. Although the exact date of their creation is unclear, each mask has a unique, aged appearance.

Epilogue

After that, there will be the traditional mochi-throwing ceremony and a photo session with the oni, and everything will wrap up by 3:30.
The mochi-throwing ceremony involves tossing mochi—and sometimes sweets—into the crowd. It is performed with the intention of sharing good fortune with everyone.

Visitors stroll down the hill at their own way. The town stands quietly, having absorbed a rich tapestry of history.
Nearby is the distillery for the Yamazaki brand, Suntory’s flagship whiskey*, which offers tours by appointment. It’s a must-visit destination for any whiskey lover.

*https://www.suntory.com/factory/yamazaki

Base data

Date：18th April Every two years (odd-numbered years)
Location ：Itosaki dera-temple 糸崎, 22-5 Itosaki Town, Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture
Access ：From Fukui Station, take Keifuku Bus (Echizen Kaigan Blue Line No. 10) for 1 hour, alight at Itozaki and walk 20 minutes.
　　　　To reach Fukui, take the Shinkansen if you are travelling from Tokyo. From Nagoya, take the Shinkansen to Maibara and then
the lmited express via Tsuruga. From Kyoto or Osaka take the limited express via Tsuruga.

based on 2025.4.15.

Buddha dances

What does it mean that Buddha dances? Roughly speaking, it means that Buddha statues move in costumes. An immovable statue of Buddha moves. In other words, the doll moves. You can see such a mysterious scene at a small temple on the coast of Fukui Prefecture.

Just standing there, they are not much different from ordinary Buddhist statues. But they move. Let’s visit the site first.

Head to Itosaki

Itosakidera-temple

A small temple quietly overlooks the sea. The road leading to the temple is crowded with cars only this day.

The audience surrounds the stage. Local primary and junior high school students also gather in one corner. And snack stands are open. Most of the spectators seem to be locals. You don’t see photographers lined up in a row. Scheduled to start at 1.30 pm. The scene 30 minutes before that.

Before the Dance of the Buddha

At 1.30, an announcement signals the start of the event. It’s finally time to begin. Yet the Buddha does not emerge immediately. Women wearing sedge hat come out. And sit and sing a song in praise of the Buddha.

Emergence of the main actors

15 minutes later, when the audience is ready, the main character appears. A group of musicians leads the way, followed by children, the Buddha.

Buddha dance

An announcement is made and the Buddha’s dance begins. But imagining something like modern dance will only disappoint you. According to legend, in the eighth century, when people enshrined a statue of Buddha in this temple, the Buddha danced happily. However, the earliest recorded date is the 19 century. It is the Buddha’s dance that people imagined more than 100 years ago. It is also divided into several dances, but it is difficult to tell the difference. A monotonous dance accompanied by a drum and a gong. In fact, the audience, who had been eagerly watching in the front row from the middle of the performance, gradually moved away to their desired position.

But it’s funny, and it starts to be fun. The monotonous rhythm creates a kind of hallucination state.
Then I started thinking about this. The event has been going on for at least 100 years. People in the past saw the same thing. It’s like a time machine. What were people thinking when they watched this? Did they think it was monotonous? Or was it grateful? Eventually, I began to hallucinate as if people from the past are standing there looking the same.

At the last dance, the Buddhas stopped dancing one by one. And when the lasted one stops moving, all the dancing came to an end. About an hour. At the end of the glittering but quiet event, the Buddhas walked up to the main hall.

At the end

Fukui Prefecture may not be a familiar place. However, there are a number of places to see, including the famous Zen temple Eiheiji 永平寺. I hope that one day you will also experience the mysterious Buddhist dance.

https://enjoy.pref.fukui.lg.jp/en

Date：24 April every year.

Location：7238 Oaza Nou, Itoigawa-city, Niigata prefecture

Access： Shinkansen from Tokyo. If Hakutaka, change at Itoigawa and take the Hisui Line to Nou. About 2.5 hours. If you take Toki, change at Echigo-Yuzawa and take the Hokuhoku Line to Naoetsu, then the Hisui Line to Nou 能生. From there it is a 20-minute walk. From the Osaka area, take the limited express train to Tsuruga, then head toward Niigata. If flying, take a flight from any airport to Niigata Airport, then travel on to Nou.

based on 2025. 4. 24.

Spring in the snow country

Bugaku 舞楽

Masked dance

Nohbatou 能抜頭

Ｎasori 納曽利

The king finally descends Ryo-oh 陵王

After the children’s dance, it is time for the final star of the show, the Ryo King. So, yes, this is the most famous of all bugaku dances, the “Lanryou ou(king) 蘭陵王” dance. The dance has the following anecdotes. Once upon a time, there was a brave warlord in a country called Northern Qi in China. But people rumored that he was too well-formed and feminine. Thinking this would not improve the morale of the army, he put on a frightening mask and fought and won a great victory. This legendary figure was a real person in the mid-6th century.

Let’s go to Nou

On taking the Shinkansen from Tokyo, the Toki and Hakutakas were continuous. Toki is a little cheaper. But that was a mistake. The transfer was not smooth and I ended up waiting for an hour in Naoetsu 直江津. Lesson 1. If you go to an unfamiliar place, you should have as much time as possible. And choose the route with fewer transfers.
The temperature in Niigata Prefecture on that day was 15 degrees. Even though it is over 20 degrees in all areas west of Tokyo, it is still cold. So, on the way, I could see the cherry blossoms in full bloom behind the snowy landscape from the train window.

Also, this route has a lot of tunnels. Stations are located between tunnels, some of them in tunnels.

Nou hakusan shrine　能生白山神社

People are gathered around the stage in the center. The right side of the entrance is stepped. In the front row, a couple dressed up in kimono. The shrine is said to have been built in the 3rd century; the main building, which was rebuilt in the early 16th century, is an important national cultural asset.
Why are these people sitting in the front row in formal dress? I found that out at the end of the festival. They were the parents of the children of “Chigomai”. They were probably proud and anxious at the same time to see their own children on the big day. After all the children’s dances were over, I could see them weeping involuntarily.
It was a moment when I could once again realized that this is what the festival is all about.

Golden Week (early-May holiday season in Japan)

The cherry blossom season is over, the weather is getting warmer, and the young leaves are shining from the end of April to the beginning of May, which is a great time to visit Japan because of the warm weather and low humidity. In Japan, it is called “Golden Week” because of the consecutive holidays from the end of April to the beginning of May. Naturally, you can see various events all over the country at this time of year. Masked characters are also waiting for people to arrive in various places. Through these, you can come in contact with the valuable traditional culture of Japan that you cannot usually see. At the same time, it is an opportunity to experience the mysterious world of the masked characters.

Tokyo area

Ome-Taisai (grand festival)

Tokumaru Shishimai (lion dance)

Tamashiki shrine Kagura

Haruna shrine Daidai-Kagura

Around Kyoto

Senbon-emma do dai-nenbutsu kyougen

Mibu-kyogen

Manbu-oneri

Demon-chasing ceremony at Hata chokoji-temple

this site https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/05/11/report-simple-powerful-oni-danceat-hata-choukoji-temple/

Tohoku area

Fujiwara festival

Hyakusika daigunbu (one hundred dear dance)

Hokuriku area

Oh-no-mai

Chugoku area

Iwami kagura

Izumo kagura

Kyushu area

Amano iwato shrine spring festival

At the end

This is the time when you can see other events of various sizes. We will be introducing them on this website, so if you find something you are interested in, we recommend you to see it there. After all, the live performance is the best memory.

People say that there are seven valleys in Ina 伊那. The transportation is not so convenient. It takes 20 minutes by train from Iida Station, the main station of the region, to Ichida Station, the nearest station of this festival. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from the station. There is only one train every hour or so. That is how deep the mountains are in the region, but that is why so many performing arts remain. The biggest feature of this area is the appearance of a huge lion called “Yatai Shishi 屋台獅子”. There are many “yatai” lion dances in the area, but the lion dance of Ruri-dera temple 瑠璃寺 is considered to be the origin of all of them. It is said to have a long history, dating back about 600 years. However, the current form started about 120 years ago.

What is “Yatai Shishi” ?

A yatai lion is a large cart made of wood and bamboo that people enter and operate. It is easy to imagine it as a giant bamboo basket. It has wheels on both sides to move it. It is about two meters high, two meters wide, and seven meters long. There are about 20 drums, flutes, and other musical instruments inside, and a curtain is placed over the top to resemble a lion’s body. Only the leader of the group controls the lion’s head.

The feature

One of the features of Ruri-dera temple is the large number of characters that appear in it. The main character guiding the lion is “Uteno 宇天王”. Then there are two ogres who protect the lion, and a monkey who is a messenger of the shrine. The event is held at a temple called Ruri-dera temple, which also houses a shrine called Hiyoshi 日吉 Shrine. The fusion of shrines and temples is characteristic to Japan. To begin with, the people of the time learned the lion dance from the Hiyoshi Shrine in Kyoto. There is also a recently revived character named “Ranryo Oh 蘭陵王”. He dances before the lion dance. “Ranryo-oh is one of the oldest Japanese musical forms called bugaku 舞楽, which combines music and dance from the continent with traditional Japanese music and dance. For this reason, the entire lion dance is very elegant, accompanied by the sounds of bugaku.

Procession

At around 12:30 pm, small monkeys played by children begin to patrol the area. Eventually, at one o’clock, the sutra reading ceremony begins. After that, the lion dance begins.
The monkeys organize the audience with their silly movements. Then two demons come out to intimidate those who are out of line. Then, in front of the guest hall, there is a large lion with its head on the ground, asleep. The main actor, “Uten-oh” appears and wakes up the lion. When the lion is woken up, it is in a bad mood and starts to yell, but Uten-oh soothes it. Then he slowly leads the lion outside. This is how the lion’s journey to the main shrine, 500 meters away, begins. It is late spring, and the cherry blossoms begin to fall in the plains at the beginning of April, but here in the highlands, the cherry blossoms finally come into full bloom around this time. Under the cherry blossoms in full bloom, the lion slowly moves forward with the guidance of Uten-oh, accompanied by elegant old music. The journey takes about 30 minutes.
When you arrive at the main shrine, you will be given a “shishibana” which was used as the tail of a lion. This is a piece of bamboo with flowers made of five different colors of Chiyogami paper. People take these home and offer them to their Buddhist altars or display them on their altars.

In October, there is an event where all the lion dancers in the area are gathered, but this lion dance is not included in the event. In the first place, it has rarely been seen outside. Therefore, this is a rare opportunity to see it. On Saturday nights, there is also an illuminated road on the way. If time permits, I recommend staying overnight and taking your time to enjoy it.

Date: 4th Sunday, April (Spring festival) & 4th Sunday, October (Autumn festival)
Location: Honjo 1-1562, Ashikaga city, Tochigi prefecture
Access: From Tokyo, take the JR Ueno-Tokyo Line to Ueno. From there, change to the Joban Line and go to Kuki. From there, take the Tobu Railway to Ashikaga-shi Station. It is about 4 km from there. About two hours from Tokyo.

*This article is based on my visit in April, 2016.

introduction

This time, we had the same guides as before. If you want to know who they are, please read this article.

Ashikaga city’s history

*Actually, it turned out to be a terrible mistake. This is the author’s actual experience.

Let’s go to shrine

*The actual start was at 9:00.
It’s no use crying over spiled milk. Let’s get ourselves together.

8th program “Kanayamahiko”

*The following dialogues of the characters are only imaginary. The actual Kagura is performed entirely in pantomime.

While this was going on, Kanayamahiko left the stage, as if he finally had a sword that he was satisfied with.

9th program “Ebisu”

*Here’s a little additional explanation. Ebisu is the deity of fishing and also the god of prosperity. He is known for always carrying his fishing gear and a sea bream.

*Ebisu face means smiling face. It is often used to describe the smiling faces that people make when something good happens, especially in business.

Intermission

10th program “Daikoku”

*This is a fact. I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all those involved.

“Inari and White foxes”

“Hachiman”

Ending “Sanjin”

After this, I heard they went for a walk around Ashikaga City.

reffer→Ashikaga City Tourist Association site

　It is impossible to talk about folk performing arts in Japan without discussing “Shishimai”. Although Shishi means lion, this is not a real lion. The original source is said to have come from India, so it is said that a real lion had been an object of worship there. However, as it spread throughout the West, China, Korea and Nepal, it became an imaginary spiritual animal. Some say that Chinese emperors had lions, so it’s possible that they knew about the real lion up to that point.

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　収蔵作品詳細／唐獅子図屏風 – 宮内庁 (kunaicho.go.jp)

Date: Sunday closest to July 25 (Most often the fourth Sunday of the month)

Place: Yagumo shrine, 2-902 Sawai, Okutama town, Tokyo

Access: A few minutes walk from Sawai Station on the JR Oume Line. It takes about one and a half hours to get to Sawai from either Tokyo or Shinjuku.

Shishimai (lion dance)’s history

　It is said to have been introduced to Japan around the 6th century, at the same time as Buddhism. In 752, when the Great Buddha was built at Todaiji (東大寺) Temple as a national project, the lion dance was performed. It is said that half of the population of the time was involved in the construction of the Great Buddha, and about 10,000 people gathered for the unveiling of the statue. It is said that this is how the lion dance spread across the country.

　However, there are various routes as to how it had been introduced to Japan, and thus a variety of lion dances have been born. It is said that there are now about 8,000 of them active.
Shishimai can be divided into two main groups: Ise-Daikagura (伊勢太神楽) style and Furyu (風流) style. The Ise-style dance is performed by two people, while the Furyu-style dance is performed by one person holding a small drum called Kakko. However, it is so diverse that there is naturally a mix of these as well. The Ise-Daikagura-style is distributed in western Japan, while the Furyu-style is mostly distributed in eastern Japan.

Introduction of the Lion dance of Sawai

　This time, this site is going to introduce Shishimai in Tokyo. The main style in Kanto region (including Tokyo) is three units of “one-man shishi dancers” comprising one group.
　Nevertheless, there is a variety of lion dances in Kanto, and even in Tokyo there is diversity. This time, I would like to take a look at one from the Okutama area first. The Okutama area may be the closest vacation spot for those living in Tokyo. It has ravines, waterfalls, mountains, and scenic beauty. It can be reached from the center of Tokyo in about an hour by train. An area that many people visit in summer to cool off. There are groups that practice canoeing on the river, and many groups enjoy hiking and camping. It is precisely because of such an area that the cohesion of the community is rather strong and there are many performing arts that have been passed down.

　As we pass Ome (青梅), we start to see mountains around us, and the atmosphere starts to change. As most of the passengers are backpackers, the Okutama (奥多摩) area is just around the corner. There are reasonable hiking trails, mountain climbing trails, and ravines around the area, and the passengers get off at their desired destinations. When you get off the train, you find yourself in a quiet village surrounded by summer mountains, where the bustle of the city has disappeared. In the middle of the village, there is a small shrine. It looks just like an ordinary house. You would feel as if you are visiting a neighbor’s farmhouse. It’s Sawai Yagumo (沢井八雲) Shrine. This is the stage for today’s lion dance. As you walk up the stairs, you find a sandy stage about 10 meters square, surrounded by the shrine in front and audience seats on either side. The lion dance starts at 8:30 in the morning. But in the morning, the main activity is walking around the village. They walk around street by street performing their dance. This is not just to present themselves in public, but to celebrate the prosperity of the village and drive away the evil spirits.

　After lunch, they return to the shrine around 1:30 to perform a variety of acts. There are three lions. Two males and one female. The male lions are the elder and the younger. And four Hanagasa join them. This is the basic style. There are many theories as to why this style was adopted, but here in Sawai, it is said to represent the sun, moon, and stars. In Sawai, it is said to represent the sun, moon, and stars, and the four flower hats represent the four heavenly kings who protect the Buddha in Buddhism. The three lions are called ”Oh (elder)” lion, “Waka” (young) lion, and “Me (female)” lion.

　Hira-gurui 平狂い

　The first performance is called “Hira-gurui”. In lion dance, a violent dance is often called “Kurui (mad dance)”. As the name suggests, this is also an intense dance. The age range of performers is wide, and this basic dance is usually performed by junior high to high school students. However, the ground below is soft sand. It’s like dancing on the beach, and we can imagine how exhausting it is.

　It’s the height of summer. It’s hot. There is an electric fan running in front of the building, but it doesn’t help much for cooling. So, if there’s a pause in the middle or at the end of the dance, there are people who fan the dancers.

　Kurenai-gakari 紅がかり

　The next step is “Kurenai (deep red) gakari”. The lion dance often has a performance with this name. The word “kakari” seems to be used in the sense of relating to or showing interest in the subject. As the name implies, three rogues with deep red cloths come out and play with the lion. The lion’s interest in the red reminded me of a Spanish bullfight.

　During the breaks, the famous local sake “Sawanoi” is served, and pickles are passed around. It was all very thoughtful. It doesn’t matter if you take it or not. In the plaza below the shrine, simple meals and beer are sold at a reasonable price, but if you want to eat well, it is best to bring your own food. There are no big stores or convenience stores nearby.

　Tachi-gurui 太刀狂い

　As the name suggests, a lion is entangled with a sword (Tachi means sword). Most of the swords are imitation, here they use imitation swords too. However, it was just barely enough to shave off 20%. They are almost serious about it. That’s why there is a sense of urgency in the air, as if a slight mistake could be made. It looks as if a lion and a man are engaged in a tense battle. As in any other performance, this one requires special training. The power of the lion dance can be seen in such a way.

　Sao-gakari 竿掛かり

　The lion dance sometimes has a representation of life. The same is true of this program. A pole (sao) is passed in the center. The lions are interested in the pole. But they are too scared to go over it. They try again and again, but each time they run back. They return with their hands behind their backs, as if they are expressing their fear with their whole body. And it is the female lion who is the first to cross the pole. The performance varies from each group of lion dance , but it is usually the female lion who is the first to cross the pole. And the elder lion is the one who hesitates until the end. It’s as if women are quicker to make decisions in life, and men who have too much stuff they don’t need are slower to adapt to change.

　Mejishi-gura 雌獅子蔵

　

　There is a performance in which a female lioness is hiding in every lion dance. I’m even wondering if that’s the reason why there are three lions two male lions and a female lioness. Simply put, it is a love triangle.

It starts out with the setting where the lions are on a journey. Eventually, the fog gets thicker and only the lionesses disappear. The two males panic and look around for her. They decide to split up and search for her. So far, there are no problems. After this, the young lion finds the female lioness first, but does not tell the elder lion. The elder lion is desperately searching for her. Eventually, he finds the two lions.
He says, “Oh, I didn’t know they were here…
Naturally, he was very angry. The young lion doesn’t even apologize, and a fierce battle ensues. This fight is one of the highlights of the story.
　

While they were fighting, the fog thickened again and the lioness disappeared. This is no time to fight. Once again, the two animals split up to look for her.
This time, the elder lion finds the lioness first. If you get hit, hit back. The same thing happens again.
　

　This fog thickening of fog is expressed by the densely packed Hanagasa hats on all sides. And finally the hanagasa return to their original positions, and the lions dance together as if nothing had happened.
I always wonder. Why did the old people create this kind of performance? Is it a warning or an irony? In any case, the person who created the original must have been quite a connoisseur.

Gokito 御祈祷

　The final performance is called “purification. At the end of the day, evil spirits are driven away, the place is cleansed, and the dance is concluded.

　

It ends at five in the evening. The Okutama area is a little cooler than the city center. The lion dance depicted on the back of stuff is dancing proudly. And so, one by one, summer comes to an end. You may look back at the road your came from, feeling as if the sound of lion dance drums and flutes are still echoing, but all you see is a quiet village that has regained its daily life. The fog in the mountains seemed to have lifted. The day is long. Let’s go home slowly.

Date; 3rd April
Location; Kamiyamakawa 160, Yuki city, Ibaraki prefecture
Access; about 7 kilometers from Yuki 結城 station. To get to Yuki from Tokyo, you take Ueno-Tokyo line(JR line, bound for Utsunomiya. It takes 1.5 hours), and change at Oyama, for Mito line (JR). It takes 15 minutes.

Introduction

1.”Dance of Gogyo”

2.”Sarutahiko”

3. “An archer”

4. “The old man holding a sword”

5 & 6. “Inari (man and woman)”

7. “Rice harvesting”

8. “Ebisu”

9. “dance of Uzume”

10. “Tajikarao~Amano Iwato-biraki”

11. Ending~”Ohyamatsumi”