Date: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, ending on the first Sunday of August
Location: Ono minato shrine 大野湊神社 163 Ha ハ, Teranaka-cho 寺中町, Kanazawa 金沢, Ishikawa, Japan
Access: 5-minute walk from Nishi Keisatsu Sho-mae bus stop on Hokuriku Railway buses bound for 60 Kanaiwa 金石, 61 Ono 大野 and 63 Ono.

About 30 minutes from Kanazawa Station. About one bus every 30 minutes.

based on 2024.8.4.

Overview

Throughout the festival, various events take place, including processions of portable shrines, boats setting out to pray for a bountiful catch, and fireworks displays. In addition, groups of exorcists perform exorcisms at various locations throughout the town. However, since only locals—and especially those directly involved—know which locations they’ll visit that year, the best choice is still to check out the event plaza on the final day.

Main Events begin

People gather at the main venue for the festival’s final day around 4:00 p.m. The main venue is located near the Kanaiwa Bus Terminal, where the central road is completely closed off to create two stages, one at the front and one at the back. Each group performs on the first stage and then moves to the second stage to do the same.

One of the highlights is the performance by the Kaga Tobi. “Tobi” is the name of a bird resembling an eagle, but it also refers to people who work at heights. However, in the past, the term referred to firefighters. During the Edo period (the age of the samurai), when fires were common, these firefighters were the target of popular admiration. In particular, here in Ishikawa Prefecture—specifically the region known as Kaga, which boasted the greatest national power outside of the shogun’s domain—the Kaga firefighters were as popular as actors even in Edo. Performing feats such as climbing onto roofs or scaling tall ladders to assess the situation of a fire was not a spectacle, but an essential part of their job. Even today, fire departments often demonstrate these skills at New Year’s ceremonies and other events across the country.

Drive away evil from the town

Around 5 o’clock, the crowd begins to move in a circle around the venue. The main event is about to begin. It’s the height of summer, so even at 5 p.m., it’s still bright out.

Two men dressed strangely like ancient yamabushi ( Buddhist monk) lead a group to ward off evil spirits. They wear high clogs, umbrellas and carry metallic canes. They lead the way first, reading out the names of the gods and chanting the sutra. Mysterious spectacles catch the eye.
A group of flutes and drums around the area help to enliven the occasion.

And there are three main actors. Black Hannya 般若, Red Tengu 天狗and Brown Okina 翁 (old man). They hold a broadax, a bow and a sword to ward off evil, each facing four directions, slashing evil with a sword or other weapon and stamping on the earth. The footwork also follows the secret methods of the mountain priests of the past. The footwork follows the secret method of Yamabushi in the past. Ninja also followed this method of walking without making noise.

High school students play all three of the main actors. No one knows why, but it has been a rule for some time. After the three years are up, the rest of the time they play supporting roles. In other words, the last performance is the final culmination for the third-year students.

They spend three days going from door to door in the town to ward off evil. On the way, many spectators crowd the crossroads, community centers and other large places. They split into several small groups, which can be powerful as they may all go together in large places. And finally, the original Ono Minato Shrine precinct. Around 7.30 pm.

History and overview

Ono Minato Shrine is situated 15 minutes’ bus from Kanazawa city center towards the sea. It was founded around the 8th century. Fire destroyed it in the 13th century, after which a new shrine building was built nearby (current location). So, the people tried hard to get deities to return to them, but it was difficult to achieve this. The origin of this festival is that people began to pray for the deity to return to their original place at least once a year. The festival therefore begins with the construction of a temporary shrine building at the original location. Deities returns to their home shrine and then returns to the original shrine three days later. And during this time, various events take place in the town. The most popular of these is the ‘exorcism’ introduced here.

This is the festival of the Ono Minato Shrine, but in fact there is also another festival in the neighbor town of Hiyoshi 日吉 shrine, where a group of evil-dispelling people also take part. The summer in Kanazawa is hot from the end of July to August. This is the time of year when you can see the two faces of Kanazawa, the normal townscape and the festive town.

Date: Fourth Saturday to Sunday in July
Location: Ono hiyoshi shrine 大野日吉神社　5-81, Ono-cho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa, Japan
Access: Bus From Hokutetsu Bus Korinbo (5 mins walk from Ono bus stop)… approx. 30 mins
From JR Kanazawa Station (only a few buses) (5-minute walk from Ono bus stop)… approx. 20 mins.
On foot 　From Hokutetsu 北鉄 Bus Kanaiwa 金石 rotary … approx. 20 mins.
From Kanazawa Port … approx. 15 mins.

cf. Ono minato shrine https://oonominato.or.jp/about/tradition/natumaturi/ sorry only Japanese
Ono hiyoshi shrine http://www.ohnohiyoshi.com/fes/summer
Kanazawa city https://visitkanazawa.jp/en/

Welcome to Kanazawa

Kanazawa is not only the heart of Ishikawa Prefecture but also the center of the Hokuriku region. It is not merely a modern city; it is a place rich in diverse charms, featuring a castle, one of Japan’s most iconic gardens, historic streets, and cutting-edge art museums. Kanazawa seems to encapsulate all the best of Japan in one place—it’s definitely a place you’ll want to visit at least once.

Date: The 15th day of March, August, and October in the lunar calendar (about one month later in the new calendar)
Location: Gusuku, Yoron-town, Oshima-gun, Kagoshima prefecture 鹿児島県大島郡与論城
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Yoron Airport. It takes less than two hours to fly from Kagoshima Airport to Yoron. From Okinawa, it takes about 40 minutes by plane. There are also ferries.

To beaches with blue sea and white sand

Maldives, Hawaii, Seychelles, Fiji. The blue sea, the white clouds, and if possible, the white sand beach would be great. The scenery with the beautiful sea has always been a dream of mankind, and many people would like to go there someday. There is such a place in Japan. That’s Okinawa. There are many Japanese who can’t go to New Caledonia or Phuket, but would like to go to Okinawa. Yoron Island, introduced today, is in Kagoshima Prefecture, but its location is almost Okinawan. A number of outlying islands lie to the south of Kagoshima Prefecture, the southernmost part of the Japanese archipelago. Half of them are in Kagoshima and the other half in Okinawa.
And Okinawa was once an independent kingdom. Its name is Ryukyu. It flourished through trade between China and Japan. However, it was invaded by the Shimazu clan in Kagoshima in the 17 century and became a vassal state, leaving only its name.
So, a hybrid culture has grown up in Yoron, which borders such Okinawa and is also Kagoshima. The two cultures – Okinawan, with its strong Chinese influence, and Japanese – merged on the island to create something that is not simply a cross between the two, but something unique and strange to the island.

Yoron jugoya festival

Because of this history, this Jugoya 十五夜 (Fifteenth Night Festival) will be divided into two major groups to put on the performing arts.
The first group performs Japanese mainland-style theater and the second group performs Ryukyu-style dance.

Ryukyu style dance

However, all the performers speak old dialects, so it may be a little difficult to understand without prior knowledge. Therefore, this website introduces some representative performances.

Sanbasu

To use in ceremonies, the daimyo made Taro buy something called Suehirogali (a fan). But Taro doesn’t know what it is. On the way, he meets an umbrella seller, who says, “This is the Suehirogali4,” and makes him buy a torn umbrella. The daimyo gets angry at Taro, who returned home without knowing that he had been deceived. However, Taro delighted the daimyo with the songs and dances he learned from the umbrella vendor, and the daimyo forgave him.

Okumagawa

Okumagawa Genzaemon, whose father was killed, plots to kill 1,000 people. Yamabushi(a mountain priest) appears there and accompanies him, chanting a Buddhist memorial service. Eventually, as Genzaemon tells the story of how his father was killed, he discovers that the Yamabushi himself is actually the avenger. However, Genzaemon was admonished by the Yamabushi that slaying a man would not help him in any way, and he became a disciple of Yamabushi.

So here is the Genzaemon. He does not look like a great avenger, but he is a representative mask of Yoron here. It is no longer even a mask. It is in the wrong position and the face is too big. It has been used as the cover of a photo book and as a souvenir.
As you can see this, the masks here are generally laid back. There is a worldview unique to this place. In fact, The second show, which only wears a headdress, is more mysterious.

Originally, only the second group of dances were on the island. However, one day, someone brought the Kyogen (satirical plays) back from the Yamato mainland. Therefore, laughter is the main part of 1st groupe. So the masks are also laid back.

The festival is held three times a year, but the one in August (actually September) is the most spectacular. The lion dance is performed only at this time. Lions are different from those on the mainland and are more Okinawan. They put palmlike plants called shuro on their bodies and gnaw on the heads of islanders.
Everyone dances at the end of the festival. This night is called Jugoya 15 Nights and is said to be the most beautiful moon of the year. Listening to the sound of the waves, dancing, and admiring the moon, the festival continues, forgetting that it is late at night.

Yoron Island, near Okinawa, is one of the most beautiful places in Japan for its sea. Transportation is by bus with about 5 buses a day. Others are cabs, car rentals, and bicycle rentals. Recently, it seems that kickboard rentals have started. There are many other ways to enjoy the island, such as marine sports. There are many facilities where you can experience diving, snorkeling, sup and windsurfing. A festival where you can admire the ocean and interact with the islanders is highly recommended.

cf. https://www.yorontou.info/en/

Date: 26 August, every year
Location: 6-86 Horibatamachi, Shinjo, Yamagata 6-86 Tozawa 戸澤 Shrine Gokoku 護国 Shrine and Minami Honcho Crossroads
Access: About 1 hr 15 mins on the Yamagata 山形 Line from Yamagata.
3 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen approx. 2+ hours from Sendai 仙台 (conventional line)
By air from Yamagata Airport and Shonai 庄内 Airport.
Highway night bus, etc.

Article based on reports from August 26, 2017

the other worldly creatures

People are always attracted to the other worldly creature. In Western paintings, angels always look the same, whereas demons are diverse and always fascinating. Legends of fairies and spirits are ubiquitous. The Japanese have used a very rich and varied imagination when it comes to such things. In Japan, ‘yokai’ is a major content. Most Noh plays, for example, consist of dialogues with ghosts and other forms. And it’s the same at festivals. At this moment, the deities, like monstrous creatures and like yokai are active.

Two distinctive Deer dance

The deer dance presented here is from Shinjo, Yamagata Prefecture, in the western part of the Tohoku region. On the west side of Tohoku region, there are variety of Deer dances, which is different from the east side. Why have various dances been handed down in Yamagata Prefecture? The reason is the history of this land.

End of Mogami clan

Yamagata Prefecture region was once ruled by the powerful Mogami clan. The Mogami family is the hero of the Tohoku region, along with the Date family in the east. Unfortunately, however, after the death of the hero Yoshiaki, a succession problem arose and the Mogami family decrease their rank in the Tokugawa shogun system. After this, the Tokugawa family divided its vast territory into smaller feudal lords, so the performing arts were handed down in a more varied form than in the west (Iwate and Miyagi prefectures).

Features and visual

The other two members have sasara, an instrument made of bamboo that is rubbed together to produce a sound, and are in charge of singing. The lyrics of the song are the same in both groups. They also have a banner on their backs with the name of each place. Others have the words ‘five days of wind’ and ‘ten days of rain’ dyed on them. This comes from the legend that when each of these occurs, a good harvest will result.

Flow of performance

The flow is almost the same for both. The first part of the performance is the entrance. They praise the garden. This is an expression of respect to the house that invited them. Next follows a scene of fighting over a doe. It is difficult for the audience to tell which is the doe. However, the intense fight scene is a highlight. Then comes the fierce fighting between the doe, followed by a dance of gratitude for the congratulatory gifts received. The performers then leave the hall. However, the existence of what appears to be a doe is not clear, and it is difficult for the audience to understand whether it is a struggle over a deers in a clear-cut way. One person from each of the left and right rows comes out to fight, and then everyone joins in and things get exciting. The leader comes out at the end to settle the dispute, so it seems as if the henchmen start a fight and the bosses arbitrate it, perhaps because their appearance reminds them of an old *yakuza family.
*yakuza ; Old gambler. They were mainly gamble. Although they were part of the underworld, they were also the unofficial face of the town and did not always have a bad image; some of them corrected corrupt officials on behalf of the common people.

Hey, you guys. Can’t you keep it down? You look disgusting in front of everybody. Today is the Shinjo Festival. You disgrace the Hagino family, don’t you?…. I can’t help thinking he’s going to say something like that.

Tradition

Nitayama’s history

Hagino again

Two deer dances performed at two neighbouring shrines in the morning, but only Hagino has the opportunity to see them again during the day. This time, the dance is performed in front of a larger audience in the town’s central quadrangle. The content of the dance does not change, but the festival audience takes up positions on all four sides, so the audience feel more enthusiasm and the dance is more spectacular here.

Shinjo festival

To begin with, these two deer dances are at the Shinjo Festival. The Shinjo Festival has been held in the area for about 260 years and has been inscribed as a UNESCO Heritage Site because of the magnificent stalls. The festival lasts for three days, the eve of the festival, the main festival and the post the festival.

The main attraction is the decoration of the floats, which are made by people from each township in their spare time from work. The floats are beautifully decorated with scenes from history, Kabuki and stories, and parade through the town. On the second day, a total of 200 citizens re-enact the procession of the feudal lords of the past.

On the third day, after the Deer Dance, all floats gather for a disbanding ceremony at around 3pm.
The Shinjo Festival allows visitors to enjoy three things at once: floats, historical picture scrolls and traditional performing arts. It is worth a visit.

https://yamagatakanko.com/en/festivals/detail_2991.html

https://www.instagram.com/shinjomatsuri

Date: Usually on Saturday night of first week of August
Location: Ebisu Shrine, Furuichiba 古市場, Misumi-cho 三隅町, Hamada 浜田 City, Shimane Prefecture
Access: About 3 km from Miho Misumi 三保三隅 Station. If you walk, it takes about 30 minutes. Cabs are available in front of the station. It takes about three hours from Matsue 松江 to Miho Misumi by local train
Kagura troupe: Matsubara Shachu 松原社中

What is Iwami Kagura?

A traditional performing art that attracts children and adults alike. a performing art in which children beg adults to take them instead of adults taking them. A performing art that children love to imitate. Iwami kagura is said to be so. Usually, when people hear of traditional performing arts, they hear voices such as ‘boring’ or ‘we need to protect them’. However, Iwami Kagura does not have this. On the contrary, new groups have even emerged. They are not motivated by duty or mission. They do it simply because they enjoy it. Does such a traditional art form really exist? Can modern people watch and enjoy them without knowledge?
The only way to find out is to see for myself at least once. With this in mind, I booked a night train.

Have you yet to see an Iwami Kagura show?

Amplified loud music with speakers. The person in charge of taiko drumming is loudly stirring up the mood. His voice deafens people with a microphone. In the center of the stage, dancers in gorgeous costumes decorated with gold and silver threads performed at a dizzying pace. And large masks glare at the people. Smoke on the stage. And a fire-breathing monster. Heroes fighting with swords.
It is rare in Japan to see an art form that excites people so much. These are not exaggerations in the slightest. In the Iwami region of Shimane Prefecture, there is a traditional art form that still excites people. In this article, I would like to introduce the reality of this art form.

Shimane prefecture

The most sparsely populated region in Japan. This is the region called San’in. It consists of Shimane and Tottori prefectures. It is also the only region in Japan that is not served by the Shinkansen bullet train. There is not even a plan. Shimane Prefecture, in particular, has a population of 700,000, which is less than the size of a single ward in Tokyo. The results of the prefecture’s own image survey are as follows. “Depopulated and desolate” accounted for 68 2% of the score. “It’s dark and lacking in vitality,” scored 26 7%. On the other hand, 45% of the respondents said that “the scenery is beautiful and tranquil. In a word, it has a gloomy image with a small population, but it is rich in nature. Taking advantage of this, the prefecture commissioned a cartoonist from the prefecture to create a calendar of self-deprecating slogans for the prefecture. It attracted a lot of attention and sold very well. In it, there is a sentence that reads. “The population of humans is 700,000 and population of deities is 8 million,” which needs some explanation. Shimane Prefecture is home to Izumo Taisha (grand shrine), one of the most famous shrines in Japan. It is said that deities from all over the country gather here once a year. This is why the old way of referring to October is “the month when deities are present”, while in other prefectures they refer to it as “the month when deities are absent”. And in Japan, there are about 8 million deities.

Where is Iwami ?

Shimane prefecture has a small population but a vast area (it takes about four hours to go from one end of the prefecture to the other by train), so in the olden days, the eastern part of the prefecture was called “Izumo” and the western part “Iwami. The Izumo Taisha Shrine, a prominent tourist attraction, and Matsue, the prefectural government, are located in the “Izumo region” to the east. As a result, the distribution of the species tends to stay in the Izumo region. In other words, it is no exaggeration to say that the Iwami region is the least populated place in Japan. However, there is actually the hottest Kagura in Japan here. Compared to its small population, there are more than 100 kagura groups, and they are always active. As proof of this, people upload countless videos of Kagura on Youtube, and even DVDs of Kagura are available for sale. This is unthinkable in other regions. Even if you hold a Kagura performance in Tokyo, only a dozen or so people gather at most. It is not unusual to have only two or three people at the worst. What is this all about? From the video, it looks incredibly interesting. I’ll have to give this a try. So this time, I would like to send you a report on how I thoroughly enjoyed this Iwami Kagura.

Going to Iwami

There are several routes to the Iwami region. The most common is to take the Shinkansen to Okayama, Hiroshima, and Yamaguchi, the southern route, and then take a local train to the north (Shimane Prefecture side). Shimane Prefecture is long from east to west, so the route varies depending on where you want to go. Alternatively, you can take a sleeper train to the Izumo area. Regardless of the route you take, it will take about 6-7 hours from Tokyo.

This time, I will introduce an overnight festival held a short distance from Masuda. It’s called the Kominato 古湊 Summer Festival. I waited at Matsue Station around noon, and a train came right away. Iwami Kagura wrapping train. Two cars. From here, I headed west for about four hours. I arrived at my destination, Masuda, a little after five in the evening. Masuda is the home town of one of Japan’s most famous painters, so that could have been emphasized. But the train is decorated with kagura. This alone shows how important kagura is in this area.

There is a book in which the author, like me, visited Iwami Kagura and wrote about his surprise. The description begins with a visit to see the New Year’s Eve kagura. He says “I wondered if there was really such a thing as going to see a kagura performance on the most emotional night of the year”. TV programs are also putting a lot of effort into this. Not so much anymore, but there used to be a singing program with a viewership rating of over 80%. There are also preparations to welcome the New Year. They may even choose to take their friends to watch the New Year’s Eve events. And yet, it’s kagura! The author wrote “The old man said, ‘My grandchildren bring me here.’ It’s not the parents or grandparents who are making them watch traditional arts. It is the children who pull the parents in. How is that possible? I wondered”.
I had the same question. I came here to Iwami to find out.

Kagura starts around eight o’clock in the evening. I left the hotel hoping to make it in time. There is only one train an hour in this area. There was a little trouble here. It seems that I mistook the weekday and holiday timetables, and when I arrived at the station, I was already just in time. A station attendant told me this. “There was already a train on the other side of the station. Please hurry up.” I hurried to the other side of the platform. The driver was standing at the front of the car. He seemed to have been waiting for me. By the way, I saw a station attendant at the ticket gate making some kind of phone call. This is completely unthinkable in the city. I even felt as if eight million deities were guiding me.
It was dark in front of the destination station, unlike in the city. There were two cabs parked in front of the station. I had brought my bicycle with me at the time, so I took it. The 20-minute ride was dark. I wondered if they were really doing it. These questions kept popping into my head. Finally, I found a light. It was on! That was my honest first impression.

Kagura~ prologue

The time was 8:30 in the evening. The first performance had begun on the stage. The stage was a flat roof. (Although I found out it in the morning) the roof was made of red-colored Sekishu 石州 tiles (Sekishu means Iwami region), which are unique to this region. The lighting was simple, just a few bare bulbs hanging from the roof. There were also a number of paper decorations hanging from the ceiling. This is a common sight in authentic Kagura. They are called “Gohei,” which means “the papers which deities dwell” in Japanese. The light from the bulbs made them shine brightly, giving them a more luxurious impression than I had imagined. In front of the building (Kaguraden) is a large area with a small harbor on the other side and the ocean nearby. There were already people in front of the building on their knees on sheets spread out. Behind them are people with small chairs that look like director’s chairs. At the very back are six or seven people with tripods. Perhaps it was because of the early hour, but at this point it was not yet full. But as the performance progressed, more and more people came.
The first dance is called “Kamimukae (invoke deities)”. The first thing to do is to let the deities come down to this place. As a substitute for deities, countless ornaments are hung from the ceiling. Although it was a ritualistic dance to welcome the deities, it was not a leisurely one. It is a dance that involves intense rotation. A single male dancer with a gohei followed. Another dance by four men followed. The meaning of this dance is that the deities of the four directions, east, west, north and south, will bring peace to the earth. At the beginning, a woman’s voice gave us an explanation.

The Beginning of Entertainment “Hachiman”八幡

When they were done, it was already 9:30 pm. The number of spectators had increased considerably. The next performance was “Hachiman“. Hachiman is the name of a god. He was the most popular god among samurai. There are also famous shrines in various places. However, even if you don’t know that, there is no problem in watching Iwami Kagura. It is enough to know that Hachiman is on the side of the good character. This is where the real entertainment with masks begins. The locals knew exactly what they were doing, and by this time the square was almost full. Here’s a brief look at Iwami Kagura’s specially based battles with gods, heroes and demons. Most of them are simply good and evil. The demons are just like demons, and they keep their evilness. So basically, if you watch it and you don’t know the characters, you won’t feel much discomfort.

The first part of the ceremony begins with the appearance of the Hachiman deity, who makes a speech (self-introduction). He is dressed in a flamboyant costume, just like the rumors. The masks are also large and powerful. The dance was graceful at first, and then became faster and faster. Just as they were finishing up, a mysterious smoke billowed out from the wing of the stage. This is another characteristic of Iwami Kagura, where a smoke screen always appears when the bad guys come out. When the smoke screen appears, you can be sure that this is the signal for the appearance of the bad guys. The lighting also changes to a slightly dark and suspicious color. And this time, from the beginning to the spark. This is also unique to Iwami Kagura, and they use fire without hesitation even though they are in a shrine. Fireworks are placed in the mouths of the masks, and the performers manipulate them. Of course, the fireworks are designed not to catch fire.

Hachiman casually withdrew from the stage once, and the demon king gave his speech. Here, he said, “I’m Dai rokuten Mao 第六天魔王 ( Demon King of the Final heaven of six desires)”. In Buddhism, there are six worlds of desire. In the sixth world of desire, which is the closest to the human world, the “Sixth Heavenly Demon King” presides over it. However, there is no need to know such a name at all. You just need to be able to recognize that he is a demon king who hinders the peace of people. He is simply a villain. And then, he says things that are typical of a villain in a dignified manner.

Hachiman pointed his bow and arrow at him and shouted. “Get out of here right now, and get out of this country.” Of course, the demon king would not back down with such threats and intimidation. Rather, it shows a power that seems to overwhelm Hachiman. If the villain is not strong, the main character will not be able to stand out. This kagura knows the basics of entertainment.

And finally, the villain falls. The demon king falls down with a cry of agony. But then…. From here, he comes back to life again. This is one of the characteristics of Iwami Kagura. The demon king is not so easily defeated. He’s a villain, but he has an admirable spirit. From there, the battle continues even more fiercely. There are many turns in the dance. They move their positions, turning around and around each other. It’s like a figure skater. I was amazed at how he was able to keep his eyes on the ground. The sense of speed. In addition, the taiko drummers were shouting “Eisa, Eisa” to the crowd. He was almost shouting himself hoarse and beating the drum as if he wanted to burst it. Kagura is originally based on the Omoto 大元 Kagura. This Omoto Kagura is based on a slow musical style called six tones. However, when it became Iwami Kagura, the rhythm changed to a faster rhythm called eight tones. This aroused the excitement of the audience more and more. All of this was amplified by the huge speakers set up in the back. The volume was so loud that it almost damaged my ears. By this time, the venue was pretty full. It’s a quiet fishing village where you can only hear frogs. It would be the same whether they were at home or at the venue if the sound echoed at such a loud volume. In other words, no one would complain about playing Kagura at such a high volume. This is proof that kagura has permeated this area.

The Hachiman actor withdraws once, takes off his mask, and performs a dance as a final greeting. The villain does not take off the mask. This also seemed to be an expected way to end. It took about 30 minutes. It was still past ten o’clock in the evening.

Jimmu 神武

The next performance was called ” Jinmu”. This is based on a story in the oldest official Japanese history book. Jimmu is the name of the first emperor of Japan. He was born as the son of a god, but this is where the history book enters the world of man. He was in Kyushu for a long time, but one day he decided to go eastward. His destination was present-day Nara Prefecture. This is how the history book describes it. There was a tyrant named Nagasune-hiko, who was tormenting the people. Hearing rumors of this, Jimmu attacked and defeated them to bring peace to the land. This is where the foundation of the current imperial family was laid. From Nagasune-hiko’s point of view, Jinmu may be a mere invader, but history is only depicted from the victor’s side. And in the entertainment of kagura, the pros and cons are irrelevant. In short, it is just a symbol that there are good ones and bad ones.
First of all, Jinmu and his attendants appeared and introduced themselves and danced. In the middle of the performance, two demons appeared, creating a suspicious atmosphere. This is Nagasune-hiko and his men. This is a form of two gods and two demons, which you can often see in Iwami Kagura. Once again, a fierce dance ensues. The four of them fought each other with their swords, spinning around like a frame. Performance while wearing masks, heavy costumes and with fierce movements, was quite exhausting. When they returned to the dressing room, they were out of breath. Eventually, they defeat one of the enemies, but the leader still fights. I can’t help but admire the feats of the enemy. However, in spite of his efforts, he meets his end as if a huge tree is cut down from the roots and collapses.

Thanks for the gifts of money－御花御礼

At the end of each act, there is an “on hana onrei”. To put it simply, there is a time to thank the people who donated money. This is also a beautiful, flowing speech.
I wanted to hear this, so I visited the backstage in between. The dressing room was a simple structure with a curtain stretched across the side of the Kagura-cottage. Costumes were lined up in rows, and actors sat on chairs as if they were struggling to breathe after finishing their roles. Inside, people were working hurriedly. It was like a field hospital.
I don’t care how much onrei you have, and there is no need for anything special. All you have to do is hand the money to the person in charge. When the next performance was over, your name would be called. If they read out your name, it will be an unforgettable reminder

to be continued Part 2

Yamato Takeru　日本武尊

At this point, it was around eleven in the evening.
Yamato Takeru is a real person, a hero who fought in various places on the orders of his father the Emperor. On the other hand, he is also a tragic hero who was shunned by his father the Emperor for his good performance and spent his whole life roaming through the country. The story is based on a famous episode in which he survived a fire attack by his enemies.
The story begins as usual with the appearance of Yamato Takeru and his subordinate, Kibitsuhiko, in a dance. It was so beautiful that it looked as if a puppet had jumped out and moved.

Once they retracted, the enemy brothers now appeared. But here, things change a bit. Normally, they would perform a dance, say a few words, and then get into a battle with the heroes. But here, when they appear, they engage in a dialogue with each other. They speak in the Shimane dialect of everyday life. “You’ve got a nice fan. Is it from the Tokuyama boat race?” “Yes”. ”Still, it’s pretty crowded today” ”I hear there’s fireworks.” I guess they know the audience wants to take a break from the good and bad stories that had been performed for two consecutive performances. A little ingenuity like this is necessary to continue a long performance.

As they were making their plans to defeat Yamato Takeru, their master appeared. Again, he chatted with each other, saying things like, “He’s always been dark-skinned, so it doesn’t make any difference whether he wears a mask or not,” and “He’s excited because he’s a local.” The story goes on even during the comic break. How do we defeat Yamato Takeru? When they asked, the master gave them a plan: “You should set him on fire when he’s caught off guard.” The boss is actually a very wise man.
They then pretend to submit to Yamato Takeru and invite him to hunt deer. From here, a rather famous episode in mythology unfolds. It is a story like this. They lured Yamato Takeru out into the field and set fire to the grass around him, setting him on fire. At this time, Takeru uses a sword given to him by his aunt to knock down the surrounding grass and escape the predicament. For this reason, this sword came to be known as “the sword that cleaves the grass. And from here, another fierce battle dance ensues. The heroes were unmasked, but the villains kept their masks on. But as the battle becomes more intense, the villains finally take their masks off. I can only assume that this is how hard the exercise is.

Ebisu 恵比寿

The time was already around midnight. People are starting to feel deeply sleepy. For some reason, children were coming up to the front. It was a festival, so it was not strange to see children awake at this time. Anyway, with such loud music, it would be the same if people were at home. It would be safer to stay at the venue, since the whole family was out there. Anyway, why?
The answer to that question is quite simple. It was Ebisu.
People are familiar with Ebisu and its kagura. In Japan, there is the so-called Seven Deities of Good Fortune. Shichifukujin (“seven gods of good fortune”) are a group of gods from Japan, China and India, regardless of their origins, who bring good fortune to people. (For more information, see.→）And Ebisu is the first of them all. This is what people think of Ebisu. He is always smiling, wears a crow’s hat, and holds a fishing rod to catch sea bream. Yes, the Kagura troupe has come up with a performance that is not about good and evil. The fact that we can see these innovations without getting bored is a result of the long, night-long performances.

Ebisu catches a sea bream as expected. Whenever Ebisu throws a fishing line and the audience tugs at it, the audience responds beautifully. The audience’s response to the situation was superb, and you could sense that they understood the kagura very well. Ebisu took out more and more sweets from the fish basket hanging on his waist and distributed them. This was what the children were looking for. This program took about half an hour.

Tenjin 天神

Next, they return to the story of good and evil.
Tenjin is a famous god of learning in Japan. Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto and Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Fukuoka are famous. Dazaifu, for example, is such a popular shrine that they joke that people from all over Kyushu gather there for New Year’s visits.

Tenjin was originally a real person named Sugawara Michizane 菅原道真, who was active in the late ninth century. He did not come from one of the mainstream political families of the time. However, because of his academic excellence, the emperor of the time loved him very much so Michizane could be promoted in the Imperial Court. On the other hand, he had policy conflicts with the Fujiwara clan, which was a major power, and they sent him to Kyushu. There he died in a fit of rage. After his death, a series of incidents took place at the Imperial Court. Lightning struck, sickness spread, and the supreme authority, Fujiwara no Tokihira 藤原時平, who was responsible for relegating Michizane, died of illness. The people feared that this was a tragedy caused by Michizane, and decided to worship him as a god.
In this program, they will directly confront each other, just like Kagura.

First comes Michizane and his subordinates. Michizane states, “I am going to appeal to the gods for my innocence. The subordinate stops him from going alone. He says, “I will go with you.” Then, the villain, in this case Fujiwara no Tokihira, appeared with suspicious smoke. But here’s a further twist. Another mask appeared from underneath the mask, showing that the Demon King had actually taken over Tokihira. The battle of two against one begins. Intense, tireless movement. After the short break performance, it was very refreshing.

Jinlin 塵輪

This is another representative performance of Iwami Kagura. The two good guys and the two bad demons. The protagonist is Emperor Chuai 仲哀. He is a real person. He is described as the 14th emperor in the Japanese official history books. However, he has no particular achievements. His father is a hero named Yamato Takeru, and his wife is also a famous person. And yet, his presence in the book is extremely weak. In the first place, there are many scholars who doubt the very existence of the old age. So the fantasy elements are stronger. The appearance of his subordinate, Takamaro, followed by the appearance of Emperor Chuai. There are elaborate samurai dolls in Japan which parents mainly displayed to wish for the growth of their boys. A fantastic sight appeared in front of us, as if the dolls themselves were walking around. I think this is the essence of Iwami Kagura. Regardless of the history, Emperor Chuai is a hero here. Realism is not necessary for fantasy. A puppet-like hero defeats the bad demons. I could see things that only happen in cartoons and games unfold before my eyes. No, it’s as if we’ve somehow entered the game. That’s why children wield swords and learn difficult dialogues so easily. In fact, Kagura’s dialogues are difficult for adults to understand even if they read the script. Words that are not used in daily life nowadays come out one after another. The author of the first mentioned book wrote that he was amazed to see how children could say the lines so easily. He has gone to the trouble of posting the original text and asking readers if they can read it. The villains are also brilliantly graceful. They say, “We will bring pestilence to this country and make the people suffer.

When I first saw the picture, I thought the masks of Iwami Kagura were vulgar. They certainly don’t have the delicate expressions of Noh masks. They are large in shape and have an easily recognizable expression. However, if you see them in person, you will understand. In this showy stage, something like a Noh mask would not stand out. You can see that it was inevitably created in this environment, on this stage, under this lighting, with this musical accompaniment.

Demons spewed fire, swords were exchanged wildly and violently. The shouting echoes of the crowd were as exciting as ever. The taiko drum and the hand gong stirred up a sense of urgency at breakneck speed. There was no room for artistry there. Here is a form of traditional folk art that has evolved only for the purpose of entertaining people.

Yorimasa 頼政

Before I knew it, it was half past two in the morning. Only four more to go. After all the fierce breathless fighting performance, it was time for the audience to get tired again.
Yorimasa is a real-life warlord. Here’s a little history lesson: In the early 12th century, the samurai emerged from a long period of aristocratic dominance. In the early 12th century, a long period of aristocratic dominance gave way to the rise of the samurai, who were under the rule of two warlords, the Taira 平 clan and the Minamoto 源 clan. The Taira clan was the first to come to power. However, those who were dissatisfied with the Taira clan called on the Minamoto clan to overthrow them. The first to stand up was Minamoto no Yorimasa. He had long sworn obedience to the Taira clan, so his rising shocked them. He was 77 years old.
This means that it actually has little to do with Kagura. Just think of it as the name of a single hero. However, Yorimasa’s defeat of the mythical creature, “Nue” is so famous that it is recorded in history books. It is based on this episode.
The story goes like this. The emperor Takakura tells Yorimasa, “Recently, because of the rampancy of Nue, the monster, the people in the capital are getting worried. Can’t you do something to exterminate it?” Yorimasa replied “I will get rid of them.” Yorimasa ducked for a moment. Then a monster appeared. With a mysterious smoke, it tries to attack the Emperor Takakura. Yorimasa rushes in just in time and chases the monster away.

The scene changes and the monkeys with agile movement appear. Why are there monkeys? In fact, the Nue monster is said to have a monkey for a head, a raccoon for a body, a tiger for arms and legs, and a snake for a tail.
The monkeys begin to wrestle and play with each other. They bring children from the audience up to the stage and wrestle with them. A little relaxation time. The last person to come out was an older man. He looks like he’s drunk. A complete amateur but he was a resident of the kingdom of Kagura. His behavior was perfect as if he knew all about Kagura. The children were throwing the monkeys around. But at this point, the monkeys must have decided that this person was safe to throw. The man was tossed in the air with a joyful look. The kind of gradual and rapid movement is also very effective of Iwami kagura.

Here we return to the story. Yorimasa came and drove them out easily. This is where the enemy’s master, Nue comes in. The sideshow ended, and a violent spinning dance followed. Nue went out to the audience. Children scream and the audience’s sleepiness blown away. Before I knew it, it was half past two in the morning. Only four more to go. After all the fierce, breathless fighting performance. It was time for the audience to get tired again.

Shou-ki 鍾馗

There are only three performances left.
“Shou-ki” is a Chinese hero. Legend has it that when the emperor was troubled by nightmares in the past, he appeared in a dream and conquered the disease.
“This performance, Shou-ki, is a very important program in Iwami kagura,” a member of kagura troupe told me. As he says, the dance is very prestigious. The dancers behave in a grave and dignified tone. In accordance with the original legend, the purpose of this dance is to pray for the disappearance of plague and safety in the home. For this reason, they use the most expensive costumes, and the actors are usually veterans. Perhaps that’s why he carries not only a sword but also a chinowa 茅の輪, a ring that seals out evil. Moreover, Shou-ki doesn’t kill the demon, rather, he reforms him. The end was also noble and lofty.

Ju-rasetsu-nyo 十羅刹女

There were only two programs left. It’s 4:30 in the morning. The summer sky is already starting to brighten.
This program has a little different taste and hue from other programs again. The protagonist is woman. She is not just a woman. She used to be demoness who took advantage of her great beauty to steal spirits of humans. However she was exposed to the teaching of Buddhism and she transformed herself and became a guardian of Buddhism. Therefore, her mask is not that of one just like a pretty princess, but that of a strong-willed woman. Naturally, the antagonist is also female. An actor uses Hannya 般若 (cf.→https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/06/07/the-most-detailed-japanese-traditional-mask/）type mask looking cold hearted. Of course, actors are wearing a mask, so we cannot tell whether actors are male or female. Nevertheless, by wearing a mask, we are able to enter a weird and fantastic world that is not of this world. However, even at this hour, the dance was still intense and the speed had not diminished in the slightest. Not only that, but the villain changed costumes, masks, and even hair color in the middle of the performance.

Orochi 大蛇 ~the essence of Iwami Kagura

You can also watch the following you tube video　→Part 1: https://youtu.be/D1NFWrmHLIE
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 part 2: https://youtu.be/KhIHAGORB9A
Part 3: https://youtu.be/yKvTkFr9vzY
Part 4: https://youtu.be/4ZcYFtqfdXM

The extermination of Orochi is the most famous episode in Japanese mythology, along with the Opening of Iwato. (cf.→）
The story involves the rough and powerful deity, Susano being forced to leave the heavenly realm (Takamagaha高天原) due to a conflict with his sister Amaterasu, the main character of the Opening of Iwato), and bringing peace by defeating a terrible monster at Izumo 出雲. This program is the performance to summarize all of Iwami Kagura, and it would not be wrong to say that this performance is essence of creative ingenuity and originality with which Iwami Kagura has developed.
The story goes like this: Susano was forced to leave Takamagahara and wandered from place to place. And when he came to the banks of Hii 斐伊 river in the land of Izumo, he saw an old couple weeping in front of their young daughter. He asked “Why are you weeping?” They answered, “We had eight daughters. But a terrible monster called ‘Yamata-no Orochi’ (a serpent with eight heads) demanded sacrifice every year. And so far we have sacrificed seven of our daughters. And now, we have to offer our last daughter.” Susanoo heard this and asked about the monster’s characteristics. Susanoo was so rampant that he was driven out of Takamagahara. He asked. “If I kill the monster, will you give me your daughter?” “We don’t want our daughter to be killed any more. Please,” they replied. Susanoo heard that the monster liked to drink, so he ordered them to make a strong poisonous sake. Then, on the day of the visit, the monster came out and found that there was a large quantity of his favorite drink. He then left the daughter aside to be taken care of later and drank the sake first. Then, when the monster was drunk, Susanoo was able to easily swing Orochi around and successfully killed the monster. He married the daughter with great honor.
The festival venue was already beginning to brighten with the light of dawn. I’ve gotten used to the loud volume by now. The unique melody of Kagura has become familiar to me. Finally, expectation of seeing Orochi, the most attractive part of the show filled me up.

Why is Orochi considered representative of Iwami Kagura? That is accounted for its shape. First, the body. The body is called “Jado” (meaning the body of a snake). People use Japanese paper made in the Iwami region as a material to make them. They connect rings made of bamboo with washi. In this way, the body of the snake, which can expand and contract freely, is completed. The rest is up to the performers. Orochi was able to move its whole body with one manipulator. The key point is how to hide the performer’s appearance. In addition, the performers set fireworks in Jado’s mouth, and let them burst into flames as needed. This kind of ingenuity began in the Meiji era (1868-1912). The tone was changed from a slow six-tone to a fast eight-tone, the jado was further invented, and the costumes became more luxurious. The emphasis was on entertainment that was more in tune with the times.
First, an old couple (Ashinazuchi and Tenazuchi) and their two daughters appear. This is unusual. Normally, the story would begin with the crisis of the eighth daughter. However, the fact that there are two daughters means that one of them is the seventh daughter.
Why is there a seventh daughter?
Then Orochi, the star of the show, appears. This time there were four of them. This will affect the size of the area where the Kagura will be performed. In large venues, there can be as many as eight Orochi.

A weeping old couple and their eighth daughter (Kushii-inadahime). As if she has given up, the seventh daughter goes to Orochi. They pull the cloth together until the end. But Orochi is relentless, and devours her. Orochi wraps the daughter in his body. Eventually, the daughter disappears into Orochi. This is something you don’t usually see. This is only possible because the kagura is performed throughout the night, when there is plenty of time.

And finally, here comes Susanoo. He heard about the situation from the old couple. He declares that he will kill Orochi in exchange for taking the final daughter, Kushi-inadahime, as his wife.

Once that’s decided, it’s time to make sake. They boiled and boiled until they had enough poison to paralyze Orochi. When the sake was ready, Susanoo ducked behind the curtain for a moment.

Orochi reappeared, and four of them performed a variety of tricks, including spinning spirals and blowing fire. When they eventually found the sake, the heads would fight each other eagerly to drink. Susanoo came out again slowly and quietly to watch Orochi.
Susanoo observed Orochi for a while. It would be easy to cut off Orochi’s head here. Of course, it’s not that easy.

Orochi suddenly woke up and attacked Susanoo. Orochi coiled himself up and tied Susanoo up with his long body. Orochi blew out fire and strangled Susanoo, trying to devour him. Susanoo swung his sword and tried to cut off his head. He finally breaks free from his bonds. This time, however, Orochi tries to eat the princess first. Oh no, princess was in danger.
The music was playing like crazy, and the drummer was shouting “eisa, eisa” with his voice dry. The drummers had been beating the drums with their whole bodies for the whole night (even if they had to take turns). No, it wasn’t just the drummers. The entire Kagura troupe must have been exhausted. With the last of his strength, Susanoo pulled the Orochi’s body apart and cut off its head, one by one. I had already been watching it for hours. It’s the same story. It was as if I had just seen Iwami Kagura for the first time. I was both elated and fascinated.
After everything was over, the entire Kagura troupe all came out and greeted the audience. Thank you for staying with us for such a long time. That’s what they said. It was pitch black when I came, but the sky had already dawned completely blue. It was a little after 6 a.m. The long, long night was over.

The road that had been so dark was now winding its way through the mountain village, bathed in the morning light. The demons and heroes had disappeared. Only the inside of my ears were filled with Kagura.

Date: July 14 of the lunar calendar (around mid-August)
Location: One of the Tokara Islands, Toshima Village, Kagoshima County, Kagoshima Prefecture
Access: By air, from Kagoshima airport there is a limousine bus (1250 yen) to Kagoshima Honko Minami port. By train, from JR Kagoshima Chuo Station take the Sakurajima shuttle bus (160 yen) and get off at the High Speed Boat Terminal, or take a 15-minute cab ride from Kagoshima Chuo Station. Then take a Ferry from Kagoshima Port which runs twice a week.

Prologue

Boze is a strange visiting deity. Or maybe it’s not even a deity. It could just be a monster. He does not resemble any masked deity in all of Japan. Just by looking at his appearance alone, it is difficult to instantly determine which country he is from. Access is also poor. The only way to get there is by ferry, which only runs twice a week. Moreover, the season is typhoon-prone. There was a high possibility that even the ferry would be cancelled. Moreover, the ferry only takes 15 to 20 minutes to arrive. Still, there is no end to the number of people who are eager to see Boze every year.

Akusekijima (Akuseki island)

Akusekijima 悪石島 (Akuseki island) is a small island with an area of 7.49㎢, a circumference of 8.8km, and an elevation of 584m. The population is about 80. As I briefly explained in the ”Access”, you need to be prepared to go here. The only ferry that goes to Tokara Islands (Toshima Village), where Akuseki Island is located, is the village-run ferry “Ferry Toshima”, which usually departs from Kagoshima Port only twice a week. From Kagoshima Port, you can take the ferry that leaves on Monday or Friday. Each will arrive at the island the following day.
If you want to go to Kagoshima Port from the island, you can take the ferry on Wednesday or Sunday. However, it is highly recommended that you book your accommodation for the last day in Kagoshima if you live outside of Kagoshima, because the because the ferry arrives at Kagoshima Port late at night.

The island is also reluctant to engage in tourism. On the day of the Boze, all the people on the island come together to prepare for the Boze, and they shut down all the guest houses. This is the reason why the island has refused to allow tourists to come to the island. However, this changed in 2009 when the solar eclipse occurred. At that time, a very large number of visitors came and brought a lot of benefits to the island. Since then, the island has been actively accepting visitors during the Bose period. Nowadays, tours are also organized.

“Boze” festival

Usually people call it the Boze Festival, but it’s actually a Bon dance. It is also a valuable dance that has been passed down from generation to generation and is unique to this island. The festival is held for three days starting on July 14 of the lunar calendar. On the evening of the last day of the festival, the masked god Boze suddenly appears.

Boze wears a strange mask made of a bamboo basket with gods and other objects pasted on it. He wears leaves of a palm tree wrapped around his body. In his hands, he holds a stick called a “bozemala.” This stick has red clay on its tip.
At the end of the dance, they suddenly appear out of the forest. They chase the people around. Children and women are especially prone to attack, as it is believed that if they are poked with the sticks, they will become healthy and have children. Then, after throwing everyone around into confusion, he vanishes into nowhere. In the past, everything was burned down right away, but nowadays, they are left for while to take a photo with tourists later. The dance continues throughout the night.

What is “Boze” ?

What is this “boze” that destroys Bon dance, causing chaos and leaving like a whirlwind? According to one theory, they are responsible for returning the souls of the dead to stay forever in the other world after life. Others say it is a way to purge the surroundings of the souls of the dead. No one knows the real reason now. The only thing I know for sure is that his appearance is nothing like any other masked deity in Japan. I think it’s worth a visit to check out the human imagination.

Escaping from the real world

There is also a rare hot spring here called Underwater Hot Springs. There is also a hot spring with a view of the sea. There is also a jungle-like walkway. Even if you wanted to go home, you couldn’t until the ferry arrived. You just get lost in a different world where strange monsters rule. It’s not a bad idea to have such a summer once in a lifetime.

Date: 16th August, every year
Location: Shiide 3, Kudoyama town, Ito destrict, Wakayama prefecture
Access: 5 minutes walk from Koyacho station (Nankai line).

A place called Kudoyama

There are two places where the entire mountain is lined with temples, making it a major religious city. Mount Koya 高野山 and Mount Hiei 比叡山.Both were built in the 10th century. Both are legacies that cannot be fully visited in one day (although they are still in operation).
At the foot of Mount Koya, there is a place called Kudoyama 九度山.
At the end of the 16th century, The Tokugawa clan, who were in power at the time, imprisoned the father and son of a warlord who fought against them here. This is such a place. It is deep in the mountains, and the surrounding area is still dotted with uninhabited stations. There is still a ogre dance here that is said to have a history of 600 years.

People performing the Ogre dance

A total of 11 people perform the ogre dance. In addition to the ogre, there are ten other people: one drummer, two flutes, seven singers, and one person who holds the drum. They are called the “ten men”. They are chosen from those who are 16 years old or older in the community. In the past, it was an honor just to be chosen. The chosen ones purify themselves in a nearby river and bring back three stones each. Then they go through a ritual and join the performance.
It is customary to keep the name of the ogre actor secret until the performance is over.

Performance

This is held as a festival of Itsukushima Shrine. At the appointed time, the group departs from the nearby Jizoji Temple, beating drums as they go. The ogre slowly moves forward, drawing a circle with a long stick in one hand. For every three beats of the drum, the ogre takes only one step forward. The path is about 30 meters long, so it takes about 30 minutes to complete the journey.
When they arrive at the precinct, the ogre is released from the restriction of the drums and is free to move around. Parents and children gather in the precinct, hoping to be touched by the ogre. It is said that if the ogre touches the child, the child will grow up in good health, and if the ogre touches the painful part, the pain will go away by the power of the ogre.

Eventually, the ten men leave the grounds, leaving only the ogre behind. The remaining ogre grieves, and even rampages through the precincts in anger. He then prays to the shrine for a good harvest and for rain. Why does the ogre suddenly start praying? Originally, several people, including an old man, appeared on stage to warn the ogre and ask for their prayers. However, due to lack of staff and the trend of the times, that part was cut off about 120 years ago.
Finally, the ogre goes on a rampage again and the festival ends.

Mount Koya

Nearby is one of Japan’s major religious centers, Koyasan 高野山, which was founded in the 10th century and has 19 important buildings. A ropeway takes you up to the town. There is a school and a bus service. Numerous temples line the streets, and at the far end is the largest sacred site, the Oku-no-in 奥の院. Even now, the monks who gather here make daily offerings to Kukai 空海, the founder of the temple, as if he were still alive. As you walk through the dense trees, you will feel as if your daily worries will disappear.

Date: 31st, July and 1st, August (Nafune festival)
Location: Nafune town, Wajima city, Ishikawa prefecture
Access: About 1 hour by airplane from Haneda (Tokyo) to Noto Satoyama airport
or It takes 1 hour by JR Nanao line from Kanazawa to Wakura Onsen, and 40 minutes by Noto line to Anamizu

Since they are a popular group, they are invited to various events. However, one of the most prestigious and nerve-wracking events for them is a performance at the local Nafune Grand Festival.
This is a small village with only about 200 residents. More than 10,000 people gather for the festival. Even those who have left the village come back only for the festival.

At the Nafune Grand Festival, many people come to see the Gojinjo-daiko. On the first day of the festival, from around 9:00 p.m., a large number of people carrying kirikos pass through the shrine and head for the sea. Then the drums are performed. After that, people continue to enjoy late into the night. The next day, the festival starts in the afternoon.

Even if you can’t see it on this day, there are still many opportunities to see the Gojinjo-daiko. The easiest way is to go to the Wajima Kiriko Museum, where the Kirikos are displayed, and performances are held every day at a certain time. There are also other opportunities to see the performance at some hotels.

Summer in Noto is the summer of the Kiriko Festival. And Kanazawa, a popular tourist destination, is nearby. And of course, there are hot springs.

Date: 16th and 27th, August
Location: Oaza Kamikomatsu, Kawanishi city, Higashi-Okitama district, Yamagata prefecture (Daikoin-temple and Suwa shrine)
Access: 15 minutes walk from Uzen Komatsu station

Yamagata Prefecture has a wide variety of lion and deer (both shishi) dances. Among them, in the southern region where this lion dance is performed, the three lion dances commonly seen in the Kanto region are popular. The faces of the shishi are Kanto-style, and the way ”Hana-gasa (the flower hats)” accompanies is also very similar.. There is a reason why the lion dance of this small region is so popular among people. It is the performance jumping through the fire ring.

History and composition

The dance is divided into three parts: the “introduction,” the “development,” and the “finale/climax,” and it takes about 50 minutes to go through the whole dance. Therefore, usually only the “development” is performed. Most of the content is about farming. There is also a scene where a wild boar gets lost among the flowers. There is a scene in which a mother lioness loses sight of her child. In other words, the ring of fire is used to express the feeling of not being afraid of fire for the sake of the child.

Jump through flaming hoop

On the day of the festival, performers will act at about five locations in the town. Not all of them involves the performance of jumping through the flaming hoop. Currently, junior high school students are learning the lion dance in order to preserve their town’s traditional folk performing art. They will also perform, but for safety reasons, the junior high school students don’t use the fire ring.

It is always held on the 16th in Daiko-in, in front of the community center at night, and on the 27th at Suwa Shrine.

It’s not just about going through the hoops. The fire is on, so it’s important to work in coordination with the person holding the wheel. If the fire is about to shift even a little, the person holding the wheel must be able to instantly shift it to make up the subtle difference. It’s also nerve-wracking not to hurt the performer’s limbs because the place performer jumps to is either concrete or hard ground.

Date: 16 August every year
Location: Hikari town Musho, Sosa district, Chiba prefecture
Access: It takes 4.5 kilometers from Yokoshiba station (JR Sobu line) Yokoshiba is about 1.5 to 2 hours from Tokyo by train.

prologue

　It is often said that Japan is a country without religion. Therefore, I have heard that when people from overseas asked, “What religion do you believe in? “, Japanese people are often at a loss for an answer, and are often surprised. Since this site is about festivals, Shinto events often appear. This is because the word “Matsuri (festival)” originally means to worship the deities. However, funerals and other events are conducted under Buddhism. To be precise, some people say that Confucian forms are also involved. In the New Year, we visit shrines, in the summer we have a Buddhist event called “Obon (the event that ancestors return at this time of year)”, and in the winter we celebrate Christmas. There is also a joking way of saying that. But on the other hand, there is this story. A road side was troubled with garbage being thrown away. As a countermeasure, the people concerned set up a small “torii” (a gate at the entrance of a shrine, used as a landmark to indicate that from here it is the domain of the gods). As a result, no more garbage was thrown away.
　In the first place, God and Buddha have been one and the same in Japan since ancient times. Setsubun is an event held at both shrines and temples. This happened because of the arrival of Buddhism in Japan in the 6th century. The leaders of the time were thinking, “As a civilized nation, we want to spread Buddhism.” However, they could not force people to abandon their original faith. So they came up with the idea that God and Buddha are the same. They said that God is the temporary form of Buddha in this country. This idea lasted until the 19th century.

Hell

　However, Buddhism is the one that Japanese people have believed in the most. Because it answered the biggest question of all, “What happens when we die?” Buddhism say “there is paradise and hell”. So the various schools of Buddhism have competed to propagate the idea of how to avoid hell and go to paradise. In the Christian world as well, there is a wide variety of images of demons while there is little variation in the designs of angels, and while most pictures of paradise are just a line of Buddhas, there are many variations of hell pictures. So many pictures of hell have been drawn and passed down through the generations.

　Blood Pond and Needle Mountain are probably the most common images of hell that every Japanese person has heard once.

Kiraigo 鬼来迎~The Miraculous Legacy

　And the various schools of Buddhism performed plays as well as paintings and storytelling as part of their missionary work. Most of them have fallen into disuse, but miraculously the one here at Kosaiji 広済寺Temple has solely survived. It is said that its origin dates back to the Kamakura period. It is miraculous that this is the only place in Japan that still retains this type of event, but what is even more surprising is that there are currently only 25 houses in this area.

Main story

　

The start time is approximately 3:00 in the afternoon. (However, since there are greetings at the beginning and so on, the actual start time is around four o’clock.) It is almost four kilometers from the station, and there are few buses. The surrounding area is only rice fields as far as the eye can see. However, on this particular day, the roads around the entrance become congested because most people come by car. So uniformed police are even serviced to control the traffic.

　The stage is a steep cliff covered with grass. In the past, there was a building called “Jizo-do” there, which was used as the stage, but the earthquake destroyed it. Nowadays, people build the stage in a corner of the slope and use it by covering the surrounding area with grass. There are about 60 chairs lined up in front of the stage. Behind them are standing room only. And in the last row, many tripods with cameras are lined up. After the greetings, the first event is for the demoness to wish the child good health. In this event, the demoness holds the child in her arms and shouts, “Go-o!”
　*It is one of the most famous events in this event, but there used to be trouble over it. Parents would take pictures of the demoness holding their children nearby. So far, this is a very natural process. But then, an amateur photographer behind them said, “You’re in my way. Get out of the way. This became a big problem. Some people, especially retired elderly people with high-end cameras do this. There is also a local train running near here, which is very photogenic, but I see a number of warning signs posted there as well. They say, “Please do not obstruct the train service,” “Please do not photograph schoolchildren in an indecent manner,” etc. I once saw an old man who boasted that he would change his personality if he got a camera. This is one of the evils of the camera scene in Japan. This has nothing to do with our readers, but I dare to complain about it here.

1st stage ~The opening act

　Suddenly there is a noisy sound and the curtain slips open. The play was about to begin. The noisy sound is a rare instrument called a “nyobatsu,” which looks like a large cymbal.
　Then the curtain slips open. The first character to appear is “Enma”. This is like a judge who decides where the deceased will go, and is the king of hell. Parents often tell their children, “If you tell a lie, Enma will pull out your tongue. He walks lifting his legs high and glares at the surroundings.

　The next one is “Gushoujin”. He is like a scribe who rides on a person’s shoulders and records all their good and bad deeds before they die. Therefore, he has a writing brush in his hand.

And then there’s demoness called “Datsue-baba”, who appeared earlier to pray for her child’s health. It is said that there is a river called the “River of Sands” on the border between this world and the other world. In front of that river is this old woman. She is said to be a being who strips the dead of their clothes.
　However, since the Heian period (9th~11th Century), the custom of sending coins to the dead has spread, as people believe that if they give this woman six coins, they will be able to have a safe boat ride. In the 16th century, there was a famous warlord who used this six-mon coin as his banner to show his determination to “hide his death at all times on the battlefield. This is an aside episode, though. Let me return to the main story.
　And finally, the red and blue ogres. They are the ones who are actually responsible for blaming and punishing the dead in hell. This is the all-star lineup of hell.

　

　Demoness and the ogres sue to Enma about how bad the deceased was in life. All the while, the king sits motionless. Eventually, the Great King asks the Gushoujin by his side, “Is this appeal correct? Gushojin replies, “This is a very bad person”. This is end of the first act.

2nd stage ~Sai-no-kawara (Children’s Limbo)

　

　When the curtain opens again, it is time for the “Sai no Kawara” scene. The “riverbank of Sai” is said to be the place where the dead children go. The children just pile up pebbles. If the stones reach a certain height, they will go to paradise. However, just before the pile is completed, an ogre comes and destroys it. Then they have to start all over again. The reason children are forced to do such unreasonable things is because it is considered the greatest misfortune to die before their parents. Then the children pile up the stones while saying “One for the father, two for the mother…”.

　”Don’t hate us, hate your parents” the ogres say. Suddenly, the Jizo Bodhisattva appears. The Jizo scatters away the ogres that are in his way and leaves with the children.

3rd stage ~The boiling hot iron cauldron

　

　The next act is the “boiling hot iron cauldron” scene. The demons are tormenting the dead by placing them in the boiling water.
“Is it boiled yet?” “No, not yet.”
　The point of this play is to show the inhumanity of the demons.

　”That’s enough,” the ogres say as they pull the deceased out of the cauldron and further beat him.

Mercy of Kannon Bodhisattva

　Then, the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara (Kannon) appears. He appeals, “Free the deceased. But the ogres say, “This is a person who has been judged as a villain by the court of Enma. It is only natural to torment him. He has never visited a shrine or temple in his life, nor has he given a single penny to charity,” he, though an ogre, says in a strangely Buddhist manner.

　

“What you say is true,” Kannon has to admit. But “I will take his sins upon myself,” he says, leaving the stupa behind and taking the deceased away.
The demons are frustrated, “So has he become a Buddha?” This is the end of the whole story.

　

　The performance lasted about one hour. People were leaving in waves.
The chairman of the preservation society told us the following story. It is indeed very difficult for this small village to maintain it. Above all, the biggest problem is the lack of successors. However, recently, in addition to subsidies from the national and prefectural governments, there are young people who are willing to help. Two of them are making their debut today, he said.
This is a valuable art form that has been around since the 12th century. In other words, we can see the same performance today as people did in that era. It is a miraculous event, and I would like to end this article with the hope that it will continue to be preserved in the future.

　Michinoku Folk Performing Arts Festival. Kagura is the centerpiece of the festival, along with the Oni Sword Dance and the Deer Dance. Here in the Tohoku region, there are many unique kagura performances. One of the pleasures of this festival is to be able to see some of them all at once.

Michinoku folk performing arts festival https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/10/18/michinoku-traditional-performing-art-festivaloni-kenbai/

“Hayachine kagura”

　The first thing that comes to mind when talking about Iwate’s Kagura is the “Hayachine Kagura”, which is dedicated to the Hayachine Shrine located between the cities of Hanamaki and Tono, next to Kitakami City. This form of kagura, which is said to have been spread by “yamabushi” in the past, is now listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The surrounding area is dotted with a number of kagura performances that follow in its footsteps (Its number is more than 100). It is so popular that many people come at one time mostly using tourist buses to the annual festival at the original Hayachimine Shrine.
Its greatest feature is the good tempo of the dance. The dancer dances at a good tempo by the sound of drums and “tebiragane” (Palm-sized cymbals), which is beaten without a break, bending slightly forward and slumping at the waist. And sometimes the sound of feet stamping on the floor works as a perfect accent. The costumes are also distinctive, the most noticeable being called “torikabuto” like the “Eboshi”(an old hat, long and narrow and high) with a bird on top of it. And underneath, feather-like things hang from both sides, flapping up and down in response to the dance. It is also common to leave the jacket hanging below the waist.

　

“Daijo kagura”

　Since there are many forms of Kagura in Iwate Prefecture, it is up to luck what kind of Kagura can be seen at any given time, but there are also many forms of Kagura that are a fusion of Buddhism and Shinto. Due to Japan’s polytheistic beliefs, the country is tolerant of foreign cultures in terms of religion. Where there was originally Shinto, Buddhism was introduced. At that time, the Japanese handled it like this. The theory was that the Japanese gods were the manifestation of the Buddhist gods in different forms. These are called “Daijo Kagura” or “Hoin Kagura” and are characterized by their strong influence on Buddhism compared to other types of Kagura.

　However, the degree of this varies greatly from one kagura to another and from one performance to another. First of all, I would like you to see a performance called “Maou”. This is performed by Kamiyado Kagura, not a demon, but a Buddha who has the power to exterminate demons in Buddhism.

　

　The next play, “Kanemaki” is based on the story of a woman who desperately wants to visit a Kanemaki temple where women are not allowed to worship. However, according to tradition, if she breaks the rule something terrible will happen. Will it happen?
A visiting, slightly unreliable-looking monk is suddenly attacked by a monster. This was a woman’s altered form. The monk managed to dispatch the monster with his magical powers.

　

　The next show is called “Teito”. First, an attractive young woman appears. Then a strange man with a comedic mask appears. He has been chasing after the woman. From there, a funny exchange with the drummer begins. The man dances, but at first his rhythm is too fast and he dances riotously. The man asks him to slow down, but this time the rhythm is more leisurely. The man eventually collapses and falls asleep.
By this point, it has almost nothing to do with Buddhism. Some of these performances are for entertainment.

“Makisawa kagura” (one of “Nambu kagura”)

　Finally, I would like to introduce “Makisawa Kagura” of Nambu Kagura. Nambu Kagura is structured like an opera, with drummers singing a song and advancing the story. When the characters appear on stage, they themselves sing and talk as if they were singing. Then the song continues, and so on.
　And if you look closely, you will see an old man next to him striking hand cymbals, and next to him is another young child striking hand cymbals single-mindedly. Worried about the heat, he was just beating the gong incessantly, with a towel on his head. I asked him about it, and he said he was three years old. There are probably three generations of parents and children standing in a row. When he grows up, he will follow in the footsteps of his grandfather and father.
This is not a rare sight in Tohoku. There is no doubt that the economic development of the large city of Kanto is advancing, and its convenience is unrivaled. But here in the Tohoku region, I feel that something that has been forgotten in the big city is definitely alive and well preserved. I am very jealous of the Tohoku region.