Tracing the Origins of Kagura in the Holy Grounds of Izumo ~1. Odochi Kagura



*Google Maps lists it as “Daitochi,” but the correct name is “Odochi”—it’s a mistake.

Date; One day during the Golden Week period in May: Kagura Dedication Ceremony at Izumo Taisha
Saturdays from late May to early June: Evening Torchlight Dance at Inasa Beach
The Friday and Saturday closest to 25 October
Location; Odochiko shrine 2425 Kizuki-Nishi, Taisha-chō, Izumo City, other

Access; About 1 kilometer from Izumo Taisha-mae Station, a 15-minute walk
To get to Taisha-mae Station, take the Limited Express Yakumo from Okayama to Izumo City Station. From there, take the local line.
There are other overnight trains departing from Tokyo, but they’re as popular as concerts by famous singers, so it’s very difficult to get tickets.

This article is based on 24th October, 2025

Limited express “Yakumo”

Izumo Taisha (grand shrine)

Shimane Prefecture is famous for Iwami Kagura. However, Iwami is in the western part of the prefecture, while in the eastern part—Izumo—there is another style of kagura known as Izumo Kagura. This article introduces the Odochi Kagura, one of the Izumo Kagura traditions.

Many Japanese people dream of visiting Ise and Izumo someday. These are the locations of Ise Grand Shrine and Izumo Grand Shrine, two of Japan’s most iconic shrines, and they are revered as Japan’s most powerful spiritual sites. In particular, Izumo Taisha is renowned as a shrine dedicated to the god of matchmaking, which is why it attracts so many visitors. Izumo is also a region where many ancient mythological tales have been preserved. It is also famous as a place where gods from all over Japan gather once a year. In other words, the land itself is imbued with divinity.

In fact, Izumo is not only the land of mythology, but also the birthplace of kagura.
Although it is said that the origins of Kagura date back to mythological times, the form we see today took shape hundreds of years ago.

The most famous of these is the Sada-shin noh at Sada Shrine, which is said to have been created by incorporating Noh theater techniques learned in Kyoto. Because it was of such high quality, it is said to have influenced many forms of Kagura in the surrounding areas and throughout the Kanto region.

And here is another form of kagura that is considered to be one of the origins of the tradition: the Ōdochi Kagura.

With winter fast approaching, the days are getting shorter. After walking for about 15 minutes through the old town as dusk falls, you’ll come to Ōdochi-ko Shrine. Actually, this Kagura performance is scheduled to start at 6:00 p.m. and end at 2:00 a.m.! (For questions like, “How am I supposed to watch it with so little time?”—I’ll explain that later, so please check that section.)
It’s such a small place that you’d never guess it’s a shrine that passed down the famous Kagura tradition. There is a stage in front of the shrine. As the surroundings grow completely dark, the audience is drawn to this spot, as if they had wandered into another world.

A total of 17 performances were presented that day. The program was particularly ambitious, featuring the revival of the Sarutahiko performance, among other highlights. Looking at the overall flow, the performance begins with ritualistic segments (which are performed without masks), and gradually becomes more theatrical as the children and the masked performers interact.

A play in which the mountain god chases a child and eventually catches him. The background story is that the child is actually a messenger of other gods who has come to summon the mountain god.

This is the story of a general named Sakanoueno Tamuramaro who fought against bandits entrenched in the mountains.
General Tamuramaro was a real historical figure who, acting on the orders of the emperor who established the Heian period (8C~12C), subdued the Tohoku region. He was the first person to be appointed general, and although he was a skilled warrior, he is said to have been deeply compassionate toward his enemies, which has made him very popular.

Sankan

A play based on the legend of Empress Jingū* and her loyal vassal, Takenouchi no Sukune, who conquered the three kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula. One of the most popular performances in this kagura.
*Empress Jingu →Empress Jingu was also a real historical figure. Since she appeared during a time when the line between myth and reality was blurred, little is known about her in detail. However, despite being an empress, there are many stories about her, and her expedition to the Korean Peninsula is one of them. Furthermore, the fact that the Emperor is referred to using the character for “god” makes him a special Emperor, and the use of that same character for her, as Empress, is deeply mysterious.

Just when you thought Empress Jingu was simply standing in the background…

(Empress Jingū) as soon as she saw that the Sukune were at a disadvantage, rushed out herself and defeated all three of them in one fell swoop. Her gesture, as if to say, “How about that?” to the audience, was just like something out of professional wrestling. The audience couldn’t help but get excited.

Kojin

Messengers from Amaterasu came many times, but each time, Okuninushi remained loyal to her. Finally, Amaterasu sent a warrior named Takeminakata to subdue Okuninushi. However, her son refused to accept this and challenged them to battle, only to be defeated and forced to flee. This play is based on that myth.

https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/okuninushi-hnded-over-his-own-country-to-amaterasukuni-yuzuri-%e5%9b%bd%e8%ad%b2%e3%82%8a/

Yachihoko

This story is about the younger days of Okuninushi, who appeared in the previous performance. It tells the tale of how he was bullied by his brothers but eventually defeated his wicked older brothers and built a peaceful country.

Yato

This performance depicts one of the most famous episodes in mythology: Susanoo’s battle against the (Orochi) eight-headed serpent. In a sense, this performance best exemplifies the defining characteristics of this kagura.

To briefly summarize the story: When Susanoo arrives in this land, he notices a parents and daughter crying. The father explains that every year, Orochi comes and they are forced to offer their daughter as a sacrifice. He adds that this year it is the turn of their eighth and final princess. Then Susanoo devises a plan and successfully defeats Orochi—that is the story.

In recent years, in western Japan, the influence of Iwami Kagura—which originates in the western part of Shimane Prefecture—has been significant. In particular, the depiction of Orochi, the giant serpent coiled in a spiral, can be seen widely from Kyushu to Okayama.
However, here, the figure is simply depicted with a human-like body and a tail. This is a form commonly seen in Kagura performances in the Kanto region. Since it was introduced to the Kanto region before the Meiji era, it still retained this simple form at that time. And this kagura, too, continues to preserve its ancient form.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2022/10/05/entertainment-by-the-name-of-iwami-kagura/

But putting that aside, it’s simply a fascinating form of Kagura to watch. The unique movements, the chants, and the lavish costumes reminiscent of Noh—everything is filled with a power that leaves the audience in awe. If you ever get the chance, you definitely won’t regret seeing it live.

The Kagura performance ends at 2:00 a.m. as scheduled. While locals may be fine, what are tourists supposed to do?
1. Of course, there are several places to stay near Izumo Taisha. However, since it’s a tourist destination, prices tend to be high.
2. Option 2: Stay near Izumoshi Station. There are more accommodations near Izumo shi Station. However, it is more than 8 kilometers away from Taisha-mae. Since it’s late at night, there is no public transportation. In such cases, I recommend using a bike-sharing service. You can rent a bike for a low fee, and it’s available even late at night. It’s also convenient because there are cycle stations at both Izumo-shi Station and Taisha-mae Station. The tourist information center at Izumo City Station will explain how to rent one.
For those who feel it’s a waste of money to stay at a hotel late at night, there’s always the option of a 24-hour café near the station. While it’s not as comfortable as a hotel, you can still take a nap in a private booth.

reference https://yuien-sharecycle.jp/en/
Shimane official https://www.kankou-shimane.com/en/
Tourist information center https://izumo-japan-travel.com/travel-tips/visitor-center/




Experience Traditional Kagura Performances Near Tokyo~Mitake Kagura



Date: Third Sunday in June and October, Concert begins at 11:00 a.m.
    Night kagura is held on the fourth Sunday of the month from June to November at 8:00 p.m.
In July and September, firewood kagura (at 8:00 p.m.), not firewood Noh, is also held!
Location: 176 Mitakeyama, Ome-shi, Tokyo
Access: Take the Chuo Line to Mitake Station (about 1.5 hours from Shinjuku), then take a 10-minute bus ride to Takimoto Cable Car Station. Climb to the top of the mountain, and then walk along the approach for about 25 minutes.

this article is based on 2019 visit

Long ago, when Tokyo was still called Edo, there was a word If you live in Edo for three generations, you are an Edokko (an Edo person). Since that time, Edo and Tokyo have been a place where people come and go. At that time, Edo was the largest city in the world with a population of one million. Inheritance is important in the performing arts. For this reason, the performing arts have not been widely transmitted in Tokyo. However, there were still rural areas outside the center of the city, and some of them still remain in the surrounding areas.

The location is in the Okutama area, which has been introduced several times on this site. Just an hour’s train ride from central Tokyo, the area is a cool and refreshing mountainous region that could be described as a different world. The performing art that this site introduces today is Mitake Kagura, which is performed several times a year at the Mitake Shrine in this area.

Since ancient times, Japan has had what should be called mountain worship, and in the midst of this, religious groups such as yamabushi (mountain priests) were born. This Mitake Shrine is one of them. Therefore, to get there, you have to climb a mountain. First, take the train to Mitake Station. From there, there is a bus to the cable car station. If the weather is good, quite a few people will ride. Of course, you can also go on foot.
Eventually, you will arrive at the station at the top of the mountain, which is the beginning of the approach to the shrine. From here, it is necessary to climb further up the hill.

There are a number of monuments along the way. These are the prayer monuments of a religious group called “Kou. This is a group of people who used to collect money to visit shrines in their town or other units, and when they had saved up a certain amount of money, a representative would collect enough for everyone to visit the shrine. Since travel was not as freely available and expensive as it is today, there were many such groups in various parts of the country.

Experience the Mitake Kagura

The start time is 10:00 a.m. The first performance is called Gagaku. This music was introduced from mainland China through the Korean peninsula about 1200-300 years ago. It is still performed at events and other occasions, mainly at court. Even in the private sector, this technique has been handed down to historic shrines and other places of worship.

After the performance, the kagura begins. Since this is a venerable shrine, there is no element of joking around, and the ritualistic dancing continues unabated. There is not much movement. There is no ” hyottoko” that comes out in the latter half of the performance and does something funny to entertain the audience.

However, since it is kagura, the point remains the same: to pray to the gods, to appease the evil spirits of the earth, and to express the world of mythology.

This is a kagura adaptation of the episode of Empress Jingu and her loyal retainer Takeuchi Sukune. Empress Jingu was the queen of the 14th emperor and mother of the 15th emperor. Compared to her husband, the emperor, whose achievements are not so well documented, this mother is amazing. Legend has it that she traveled to the Korean Peninsula and conquered several countries while still a woman. Takeuchi Sukune helped her in this endeavor. In fact, there is no such historical fact, so historians say that there must have been some intention for such history to be written. However, the intention is unknown, although there are various theories.

The performance ends with a slightly comical masked “mountain god” with his tongue sticking out, which is unusual for the occasion. The mountain god throws rice cakes at us. The rice cakes, if taken well, bring good luck.
The masks are well made and the costumes are gorgeous, as it is a kagura of a prestigious shrine. According to the explanation of an official, each costume costs about one million yen. Although there is no element of entertainment, the experience of listening to this prestigious music and music that is more than 1,000 years old is quite rare. To be able to do so so close to Tokyo is quite an experience. That is, if you are confident in your legs and feet.

Get in touch with nature and view artworks

Nice hiking trails with canyons and small museums in the vicinity. There are frequent trains from environs. If you are tired of the city, come here once.
https://www.omekanko.gr.jp/spot/80401/

https://musashimitakejinja.jp/homotsu_multilingual/en/en-top.html