Report: Manbu oneri~The Luxurious World of Buddha at Dai nenbutu ji-temple

Date: 1~5th, May, every year
Location: Uemachi 1-7-26, Hirano district, Osaka city, Osaka prefecture
Access: Take the Midosuji subway line from Shin-Osaka or the JR Loop Line from Osaka to Tennoji. From there, take the subway Tanimachi Line or the JR Yamato Line to Hirano. It takes about 5 to 8 minutes to walk from each station.

Introduction~ In Japan, if ogres dance, so will Buddha

 In Japan, when ogres dance, Buddhas also dance. Although fewer in number than the ogres, there are also events in which Buddha appears.
The most representative of these is the “25 Bodhisattva Parade”. From the middle of the Heian period (794-1185), the belief in the Pure Land began to flourish. It was believed that the period of 10,000 years after the death of the Buddha was the “the Latter Days of the Law” and that the Buddha’s way of life would be disturbed. As a result, people began to yearn for the afterlife. The Pure Land teachings taught that if people recited the Nembutsu diligently, they could go to paradise. This is the Pure Land faith. And just before death, the “25 bodhisattvas” come to greet us with the Buddha. The “25 Bodhisattvas Parade” is an attempt to recreate that scene.

Interesting Japanese paintings reappear

By the way, this site has previously introduced a strange painting called “Choju Giga” (Caricatures of Birds and Animals), and And there are many other wondrous paintings that seem to be the genealogical descendants of this. Now, in such a world of wonder, we may be able to see something like the following scenes. So, let’s go and see the world of Buddha with the characters in those scenes (the sparrows in the wondrous paintings).

Sparrow Kotota: Mr. Owl, I heard that ”Manbu Oneri” is held in Osaka, so I’m thinking of going there for a while.”
Mr.Owl: That’s a good point. Faith will save you.

Sparrow Kotota: Oh, that must be Dai Nenbutsuji-temple.

Source: “Suzume-no Kotota (sparrow Kotota’s story) 雀の小藤太” (16C) cf: https://www.suntory.co.jp/sma/collection/data/detail?id=635

寺周辺
actual scene around the temple

大念仏寺に雀たち

Dai-nenbutsuji-temple 大念仏寺

 The end of April and the first half of May in Japan is known as “Golden Week” because of the concentration of holidays, and people move around a lot. Seasonally, it is the transition from spring to summer, with good weather and the mildest climate. After this time, the rainy season arrives a month later. After mid-July, the summer season begins. Therefore, there are many events and activities. But it’s not all good. Unfortunately, the cost of transportation and accommodation goes up.
The procession of the Dainenbutsuji Temple will be held during this period. The temple was founded about 900 years ago, but it is said that the hall was built in its current location about 400 years ago. However, the procession itself is said to have been held about 700 years ago.

寺、脇門
a sub gate

寺、正門
the main gate

境内
the precinct of the temple

本堂

Because of its long history, the precincts are large. A vermilion-lacquered corridor circled around the main hall. This is where the Bodhisattvas go around. Inside, food stalls lined the streets, adding color to the festivities.

It’s been less than an hour. I think I came a little too early. Oh, there are people gathering around the main hall. Let’s take a look there.
The sky is clear in May. It’s a bit windys, though.

How crowded is this event?

廻廊
the corridor

廻廊と本堂入り口
the entrance of the main hall

Excuse me, I’d like to stay here for a moment.

本堂内廊

雀の書画会
hurly-burly

Please, come in. Sit down. It’s free.

There are quite a few people here.

The festival lasts for five days, so it won’t be too crowded. Take your time for a while.

Oneri (Procession)~The Buddhas Walking

It’s almost one o’clock. Oh, the music is starting to play.

It’s the gagaku. It is one of the oldest musical forms left in Japan.

始まり

女性たち

僧と須弥壇

You don’t have to lean over so much, it’s still okay. At first it’s just the monks and parishioners walking by.

It takes about five minutes per lap.

It’s 2:00. It’s about to start. Here comes the first Bodhisattva

きらきら

最初の菩薩

Fast. Much faster than before. It is so fast that I don’t have time to listen to the explanation, isn’t it?

最初の菩薩 横

最初の菩薩 後ろ

There are twenty-five bodhisattvas, so I guess they would have to do this in order to make it in time.

But this parade is the main event.

That’s it. There are such circumstances in the world of grown-ups, aren’t there? It’s complicated, right?

In this way, I guess the faces of the Bodhisattvas are all the same, just with different possessions.

There doesn’t seem to be a broad scope of imagination when it comes to thinking about Buddhas and angels and other sacred things, does there?

Finally, the monks came out again.

That’s the end of the Bodhisattva procession, that was about half an hour.

Everyone is getting ready to leave.

If you have time, you can take a peek inside the main hall a little more. You can see the paradise.

Is that all right? I wouldn’t mind to peek in.

I doubt we’ll be able to get inside, but you can at least peek through the door. It’s a wide entrance.

Thank you very much.

Paradise inside the main hall

Kotota went to the door of the main hall as the former guest had told him earlier, and a number of people were peeking in. Inside, devotees are sitting and watching the ceremony. In the space where very beautiful and graceful music is echoing, he can see all the Bodhisattvas from earlier.

本堂内の菩薩たち

Here emerged a scene of the Buddhist paradise that the people long ago had imagined.

菩薩を見る信者たち

僧から受け取る菩薩

It seems that the Bodhisattvas are receiving something and carrying it over there, handing it back and forth….

帰って行く菩薩

僧侶たち退場

終了後

It was already three o’clock. I’ve come in contact with Buddha today. I gained some good deeds and karma. Let’s have a look around Osaka and go back home. Or I’m not sure yet, should I go to Kyoto or Nara? Oh right. I’ll have to buy a souvenir for Owl.

In this way, Kotota went home satisfied. Happily ever after.

Reference

Dai-nenbutsuji-temple https://www.dainenbutsuji.com/oneri/

You can travel from Osaka to Kyoto and Nara within one hour by train. https://matcha-jp.com/en/1918

Paintings source:

雀の小藤太 旅立ち

雀の小藤太 旅

Suzume-no Kotota (sparrow Kotota story) 雀の小藤太” (16C) https://www.suntory.co.jp/sma/collection/data/detail?id=635

A picture scroll of the story of Sparrow Kotota, where he lost his child and became sad, but various birds gave him comfort, and finally he became a priest.

河鍋暁斎 「雀の書画会」
Suzume no shogakai 雀の書画会” by Kawanabe Kyosai 河鍋暁斎 (1831~1889)
https://tokyo.digi-joho.com/attractions/arts-culture/7-kawanabe-kyosai-museum.html

歌川国芳「里すずめ、ねぐらの仮宿」
”Satosuzume negurano kariyado 里すずめ、ねぐらの仮宿” by Utagawa Kuniyoshi (1798~1861)
https://www.fujibi.or.jp/en/our-collection/profile-of-works.html?work_id=9737
https://otakinen-museum.note.jp/n/na972c0728883




Report: Three Reasons for Going to Toyama~Part 2 The Lion Dance Day in Shinminto

 Today, we will go to Shinmiato. Shinminato was a city’s name. It merged with other towns and became Imizu City. So it will be more easily understood when you say Shinminato rather than when you say Imizu even now. For those who saw Rokudoji’s Lion Dance (cf. part 1) and those who didn’t, although you can see the event of this special day, it is wasteful since you came all the way to Toyama on this day. It is said that you can see the lion dance anywhere in Shinminato all day long if you just go there. And you need not spend all day to see the Lion Dance. You can either go sightseeing in another place or can sleep at a hotel. But, all the more, I recommend you should spend all day watching this lion dance.

red part is Shinminato

 In my case, I went first to “Kanayamachi” and “Yamacho-suji” in Takaoka city before going to Shinminato because I stayed in Takaoka. And I was too tired to see the lion dance because I had spent all day watching one in Rokudoji. I wanted to stay in bed. I was very tired. But I got out of bed just because it was my personal mission to tell people about the interesting aspects of masked traditional performing arts and I was born to be poor.
“Kanayamachi” is the street that has elegant houses with delicate latticework characteristic of Japanese architecture that line the gently curving road. I love this town. It gives a floating impression which transports me to a different world just by being there. Both “Kanayamachi” and “Yamacho-suji” are “Important Preservecd Districts of Historic Buildings” (there are more than 200 of these districts) . In short, it is an old street that has been left as is. It doesn’t take a lot of time to see and walk around. Kanayamachi’s street is only 450 meters long. Yamacho-suji is only 600 meters long.
 I don’t know whether you wanted to walk around Takaoka or not, because you are going to Shinminato. However, where is Shinminato? This question, actually, was mine. I didn’t have knowledge of this town or the event. I was too late to get reliable information about the shrine. I had to depend on unreliable information on Internet that said “If you go to Shinminato on that day, you can get information everywhere”. As a result, I could get reliable information.
 Where is Shinminto? You will be OK if you get off at the station called “Shinminato” on the Manyo Line. It is safe to assume that everything to the west is Shinminato. To be specific, it’s Nishi Shinminato.

 It was still the morning of a weekday. There weren’t many people but they were very enthusiastic. And then, I saw another group on a small truck pass by. I found two groups. Besides these two groups, I found the third group while I followed the first group. The words I happened to see that you can find the lion dance easily if you go to Shinminato on the day were not false. I was a little worried because I heard the rumor that recently, some groups changed the day to Saturday or Sunday near the special day. But this was worry for nothing.

another group pass by

 Even though it was a weekday and there were few people, they were very active. Even though people have their daily jobs and children were in school, the mood was still very festive. I suppose that they had a spirit that we preserved this tradition and it is natural that the people who live in this town will support it. This feeling is natural, coming from the people themselves. Besides, I guess they don’t only want to preserve tradition, they just do it because it is very enjoyable. Both participants and citizens in the audience love this performing art.

The style is almost the same as Rokudoji (cf. Part 1). The composition of the group of the lion dance is pretty much the same. A lion, some Tengu, some Kiriko and musicians. And they wander around doing the lion dance in their area the whole day.

Tengu dnaces in perfect daily scene

 Their theater is on the streets. They have no special facility, no special area with a shrine. The town where they usually live is the stage.

So, when they arrived at a nursery school, the children were already sitting down in front of their school. In this region, people think that watching this performance is educational and fun.

 The Tengu carried a special torch. The performance time became longer, too. Even though it was in front of children, they didn’t cut corners. You can feel the spirit of the lion dance group. There are, of course, other people. But the participants perform solely for the children. When the group of the lion dance comes, the teachers have children watch it in a natural, relaxed way.

 Children grow up watching the lion dance and have inherited this region’s tradition. Shishi, Tengu and Kiriko are their heroes like a TV show’s characters.

 Next. I found the fourth group, “Shoto” on this day. Each area has a group of lion dancers in this district. Each group has done almost the same performance. If so, you say, its enough to watch only one group. No. Although I said “almost the same”, it doesn’t mean exactly the same. The design of the long covering each lion is different and the chants are different, too. Furthermore, the number of each group and territory are different.
 All of their performances in the morning finished at 1:30pm. They took a lunch break and the town got quiet again for a while.

 Shiminato is an old town. It is not so much a historical town as it is a place where time seems to have stopped about 50 years ago. The town has been the setting for several movies, and recently a movie featuring the Hikiyama festival, with the festival floats held in September, was released. Perherps it is the unique atmosphere of this old town, which makes people feel nostalgic that has captured the hearts of filmmakers.

 The afternoon sunshine, the endlessly flowing river and the calm sea will surely relax your tired mind. And then we notice that in the towns that pursue only convenience, there are no performing arts remaining.

 Its just after 1:30 pm. Its almost time to resume. I turn to the city as if the tone of the music is inviting me again. I’ve been listening to it all morning, and I can hear the sound in my ears like an auditory hallucination all the time. There it is. It is “Higashi Shinmachi” I saw earlier.

 

 In the afternoon, the number of people seems to have increased a bit. I was led to the plaza in front of the housing complex as I watched. Quite a few people had already gathered there. Other groups had gathered there as well. There, they are going to demonstrate their skill one after the other.

 

 It was the “Nago cho” that appeared. Two Tengu came out there with torches. The flickering fire of the torch bewitches not only Shishi but also the audience.

 In this way, it seems to be a momentary event, but the truth is that a lot of time has passed there, both physically and in terms of mood. The lion shakes his huge body, sometimes violently sometimes gently, as if in response to the Tengu’s torch. If the lion gives the lion-headed man a ride on its shoulders and threatens the Tengu, the Tengu also carries another Tengu on its shoulders and counters. When the lion comes running in, the Tengu uses his torch as if cleaning the ground. This is the technique that they can’t do or else both are in harmony.

 After I enjoyed their performance enough, I got to see “lion slayer” for the first time. The performance of “lion slayer” is so unique one. I suppose that the origin of this performance came from “Kinzo-Shishi” in Gifu prefecture, next to Toyama. “Kinzo-Shishi” is a performance where a man called “Kinzo” fought Shishi that destroyed a farm. In this performance, Shishi appears as a bad being. However, the lion (Shishi) is a sacred animal originally. So people could be confused when they see this performance. I’m sure they probably had to say “What does this mean?” Now, they seem to have settled on the fact that they are not killing the lion itself, but getting rid of the malignant nature of the lion.
 It’s a quiet beginning. The tengu and the lion move freely in time with the music. When one swings to the left, the other is in tune with the music. This may be called a play in its entirety, but it could also be called a ballet or a musical in the sense that it is set to music.

The lion and the tengu are not evenly matched. If anything, the lion is stronger. The tengu is always frightened of the lion. If possible, the Tengu would like to avoid a head-to-head battle with the lion. This is expressed in the performance by the Tengu’s trembling legs. But here’s the crucial moment. Kiriko is captured by the lion.

The Tengu must save Kiriko from being captured by the lion. However, fighting the lion head-on was not a good idea. What should they do? Make him drink. The lion was so absorbed in drinking that he would ignore Kiriko. One of the highlights of the battle is when the lion raises a cask of liquor in his mouth in one fell swoop. This may have been the inspiration for the famous myth of the Orochi’s (being like dragon) extermination, as the same method is also used to slay the Orochi. Either way, the lion gets drunk and docile. This ploy works, and the Tengu succeeds in killing the lion, but as the lion gets drunk and gradually moves less and less, the tone of the music is exquisitely slowed down. The Tengu still managed to make sure that the lion was asleep. The staging in this area is so brilliant that it is hard to believe this is an amateur play, making everyone in the audience gasp. The Tengu would then “kill” the lion.

 The lion is reborn. The symbol of this is the scene in which the lion stands up with Kiriko on his back. The music that had been suppressed until then explodes. The scene is very solemn. The local lady smiled and asked to me “How was it? Was it interesting?”. I looked at her and she looked a little proud.

 I found a number of lion dance troupes after that. They were everywhere, in the back alleys and along the river. It would not be an exaggeration to say that the whole of Shinminato is steeped in the sounds of the lion dance.

 

 After five o’clock in the evening, the town is quiet again. After this, the “Iwaibana”, so to speak, which is the most important part of the festival, will be held.
As I walked through the quiet town, I happened to see a lion’s head on in front of the main hall of a large temple. An elderly person stands talking in the evening shadows. The pursuit of economic efficiency is always the focus of our attention, but this is the kind of quiet and modest life that has always been carried out in this country. If you have the opportunity to visit, I’m sure the town will tell you all about this and give you a glimpse of its little treasures.

 

 Now, what is a “Iwaibana”? Quite simply, it’s a celebratory dance. When a family had a new house, marriage, or birth of a child, they would pay a lion dance troupe for the celebratory flowers. In response to this, the lion dance troupe would perform in front of the house. Of course, anyone could watch the performance. When the time came, people gathered to watch the performance. At that time, we happened to look for it on the Internet, but in fact, this is very rare case.

 ”Iwaibana” is basically the same as the one performed. It’s a lion slayer. However, the most distinctive feature of the performance is that in the middle of the performance, “Koj-jo 口上” (it means a “speech” congratulating the people of the house) is added. The words are fixed, and they say something like, “You have piled up a mountain of money for me”. However, because of the relationship with the house, various ad-libs are added. So it takes nearly an hour. During this time, the traffic is sometimes stopped on one side of the road, but nobody complains about it. Passers-by are eager to watch from even the other side of the road. This is the only day the lion dance is allowed to go unchallenged.




 

The sort of evening session of “Iwaibana” can continue until quite late, but you have to know where it takes place. If you are not a local, you can’t find it, but by that time, you can’t see it well because the crowds of people are like a mountain. So I had one idea. The idea was to follow people as they walked along, so that we could see the performance. Of course, it was a kind of a gamble, but I think it was a very effective strategy.

As a result, I was able to take a closer look at two of them afterwards. One of them was quite exciting because the house we visited was one of the lion dance troupe members.
The last train back to Takaoka was around 9:30. The lion dance was going on until just before that time, and it seemed to be going on for a long time.
While I was watching one of the lion dances, I heard the words of a girl. “Everyone comes to see Sakuramachi, don’t they?”
I think it’s already said that the lion dance in your town is the best thing you can do.
I remember feeling very jealous on the train home.

 




Report: 3 reasons for going to Toyama Part 1 Rokudoji~ Winner of Kingdom of the Lion dance

Date:  14th May, every year
Location: Rokudoji district, Imizu city, Toyama prefecture
Access: Rokudoji station (Manyo line). You take “Ai-no-kaze-Toyama line from Toyama and change at Takaoka to Manyo line. To Toyama from Tokyo, you take Shinkansen (JR line) or night express bus.

*This article is written based on writer’s experience in 2018.

Toyama prefecture 富山県

Imizu city 射水市
Imizu city 射水市

Rokudoji access
From Tokyo to Toyama

Rokudoji district

 Hello, everybody.

  Do you have a time when you want to go to Japan, but just going to major cities like Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, isn’t enough? Those of you who doubt there must be something more than just Ninja, temple, Fujiyama, Kawaii and high technology in Japan–you are lucky to reach this site. There are many good regions where most people don’t know. For example, what do you think of Toyama prefecture? You may say “Toyama? Where is it? I have never heard such a name”. That’s what’s fun about it. You want to see more than Tokyo, don’t you? You want to know deeper attractive Japan, don’t you?

 3 reasons why you should go to Toyama.

One. Toyama has great nature. “Kurobe-kyokoku (gorge) is deep V shaped gorge with a height difference between the river and mountain ranging from 1,500 to 2,000 meters. This area has many hot springs, Unatsuki or Tsurigane which are famous for their natural open-air baths at the river bank of the Kurobe river. And “Yuki-no-otani” is a snow wall walk. It’s ten meters long. The wall reaches a height of 20 meters in some spots!
cf.→https://www.alpen-route.com/en/yuki-no-otani-snow-wall-walk-2016apr-16th-jun-22nd%E3%80%80%EF%BD%9E%E9%9B%AA%E3%81%AE%E5%A4%A7%E8%B0%B7%E3%82%A6%E3%82%A9%E3%83%BC%E3%82%AF2016%EF%BD%9E Yuki-no -otani

Two. There are many traditional cultures. The old castle “Toyama castle”, the big buddha in Takaoka. “Kanaya” is a town as if time had stopped. “Gokayama”, the historic village is designated as a World Cultural Heritage Sites.

Toyama castle
Toyama castle

Takaoka Big buddha
Takaoka great buddha

the beatiful town "Kanaya"
Kanaya town

the historic village "Gokayama"
Gokayama village

*cf. Toyama castle, Takaoka buddha and Gokayama village from https://travel.rakuten.co.jp/mytrip/ranking/spot-toyama/
Kanaya town from https://toyama-bunkaisan.jp/search/1747/

 Every spot is accessible within one or two hours by train from Toyama station. It’s very convenient.

Three. There are many great “Shishimai (Lion dance). Yes, I am definite about that. Actually, it is said Toyama has more than 1,000 groups of Shishimai. Each region has its own style. They have been performed for more than 300 years. Among these, I recommend the lion dance in “Rokudoji” and “Shinminato” areas. While flames are rising up, the endless battle of “Shishi” and “Tengu” unfolds. You can watch performances transcending simple traditional performing arts.

 First, you are at the Takaoka station of “Manyo-line”. Takaoka is within half an hour from Toyama. “Manyo-line” is a vehicle between a train and bus. In short, it is a streetcar. You have to get a number ticket when you get on. This streetcar starts slowly and drowsily as if you were on a roller coaster. When I got on, there were many students because it was a weekday. Although most traditional performing arts are held on Saturday or Sunday near the original day, in this area, they stubbornly observe the day prescribed. The streetcar drives along the environs of the old town to Shinminato.

Manyo-line in Toyama prefecture

Mnyo-line in Toyama prefecture

*from https://www.tripadvisor.jp/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g311426-d2401483-i228144336-Manyosen-Takaoka_Toyama_Prefecture_Hokuriku_Chubu.html

 After about thirty minutes, you reach a station. You may see a building with a nice rustic in front of the station. That’s Rokudoji. But you will murmur “Well, Where is the Lion dance group? I don’t know.”
 When I visited the area, I arrived at about nine am. The only information I had was to be at the shrine at six. I walked along the river. Then, I heard some sounds of flutes and drums. I walked following the sound, and had a look in the alley. I found it. There was a group of the Lion dance right here.

Tengu is dancing
Tengu

The Chinese Lion

the Lion dance group

 Shishi and Tengu were dancing. There were five people inside both Shishi and Tengu, children (called Kiriko)dressed up with flower hats, followed by a little vehicle with several people playing traditional flutes and Japanese drum (Taiko) riding. And in addition there were more than ten people who are the leader and supporters. All people other than Tengu and Kiriko wear the same clothes.

Tengu vs Shishi

Shishi

 kiriko
Kiriko

Tengu vs Lion

 Shishi consists of five people. The front man handles the head of Shishi, and others are covered by a long cloth tinged with a unique pattern. This style is called “centipede Lion”.

 They walk along the street, sometimes stop to play a short dance (within five to ten minutes). Shishi try to catch Kiriko, and Tengu face Shishi to try to protect them. This is the basic form. The leader decides on the spot what they do. The leader tells the name of the program, and they instantly dance it. Sometimes, a man who happen to pass by join them. I suspect he, of course, may be a member but he couldn’t participate this day for some reason. And sometimes the musicians play as Kiriko.

The Shishi try to eat Kiriko

a man passing street suddenly join as role of Tengu

 People who live along the street go out from their house. Children watch them with their shining eyes. This festival is held every year, but they can’t help coming out to the street when they hear the sound of the Lion dance. The group walk as they dance to meet everyone’s expectation all over the town the whole day. That day was a weekday, as expected the number of viewer was not many especially in the morning. Just because the viewers weren’t many, they never cut corners. Come to think of it, despite being weekday, people walk around playing Shishi dance don’t go to work, and children are absent from school, too. But people in this town must consider it is only natural. And they are waiting for Shishi to come. In Japan, towns like this still remain.

Tengu vs Lion

Long Lion

kiriko & Shishi

Tengu & Shishi

 The leader cries the name of the program, every member gets prepared immediately like an army. The leader cries “Tololo!”, “Baigaeshi!”. We, as third party, don’t know any meaning of these words, but as we watch them again and again, we could imagine what they play. Thus their chant “Iyasaa, iyasaka!” echoes all over the town. This “Iyasaa” chant is short for “Iyoiyo sakaeru”, means “thrive more and more”. This chant is rare.

Tengu & Shishi

neighbor watching over children

 People inside Shishi continue to swing its long curtain. The curtain doesn’t swing easily by a little shake. People have to make the curtain swing by power of the whole bodies. It’s a good amount of hard work. So people change their role repeatedly. People who come out from the curtain are covered in sweat and their faces are burning, especially the man who handles the head. Even in May, it’s hot.

Hyottoko is swinging it

Tengu and Shishi

 They sometimes imitate pounding rice cake (Japanese traditional ceremony at New Year) with Hyottoko joying in. They don’t pound rice cake actually, Kiriko (children dressed up) throw confetti at last to celebrate. They go around giving fortune to the town.

the lion dance in the square

 They walk around the town while doing short performances, and sometimes do long versions of the program at facilities, like at a hospital or a kindergarten.
 When the group arrived this hospital facility at about 2 pm, many people had already waited impatiently for them. I only followed after the group of Shishi, but local people might know the time, it arrives for every year. Not only the people in this facility, but many neighbors have gathered. Whether the people are concerned or not, or whether they have nothing to do…(no)…they all seem to gather despite of themselves every year event.

 We can see the perfect form of this Shishi dance at last here, although, the basic format doesn’t change. Shishi goes mad, KIriko dance colorfully and Tengu faces the Shishi. Then, what is different? Let’s go on to the chase, and we can see the last part. Until then, Shishi runs over, Tengu and Kiriko appears, and coaxes it. But that was all just a part of the battle. If there are people who say “So? What ultimately happenes?”, they would finally find out here.

Tengu

Tengu

 Before we see the last, we must give you more information. It is the torch. Most Shishimai group use this torch recently. The group that started using, Rokudoji. This performance has been the typical style, Rokudoji being the is origin. So, when Tengu holds the torches, the audience lives up. It takes about more thirty minutes.
 Rokudoji received the first prize at the competition of the Lion dance in Toyama for six years in a row for this performance.Moreover the Shishi dance is characterized by Tengu wearing the long hat called “Eboshi”. Tengu has long hair called “Shaguma” in Imizu city, while Tengu has long hat in Himi city. Rokudoji has both feature.

Tengu & Shishi

Tengu & Shishi

 Tengu dangles fire in front of Shishi. Shishi is dazzled soon, and calms down.

Tengu made Shishi calm down

 Every group in Imizu type has the performance “Killing the lion”, but Rokudoji doesn’t have that performance. This is another feature. Rokudoji received the first prize at the competition of the Lion dance in Toyama where it is said to be the kingdom of the Lion dance, for six years in a row for this performance.

view of Rokudoji

 When the main event finishes, it will be late afternoon. Rokudoji is located between the river and the sea. It’s great to do cool off in the afternoon, or you want to eat something. Unfortunately, this area doesn’t have any convenience stores, cafes or restaurants. If you want to go to a shop, you can get on the Manyo-line and go to the center of the city. In my case, I walked a very long way to find shops because I thought there are some convenience stores nearby. After all, I ended up walking for two stations away from Rokudoji. Lesson 1. “Don’t think there are some shops within five minutes walking distance like Tokyo.”

 In the evening, finally the most popular performance will be held called “Iwai-bana”. This means that the Shishi group goes to and celebrate a house that is new or a family tgat had a happy event like a wedding or a new baby.

community center

Shishi at the community center

 This evening, two ceremonies were held. One was a personal new house and another was the community center. It started about seven pm. When this time approached many cars were lined up along the river. First, in front of a just personal house. People already filed up the area in front of the house. I couldn’t see anything having been late. So, I gave up watch at this place, and moved on to the next place, the community center. In front of the center is a wide square, but many people already surrounded it. Just so you know, this information isn’t uploaded on SNS. I knew that it is held at the community center just because I heard they (members of the group) say so. If you want to know where it held, you should ask them. They will surely answer because they love their Shishi performance.

Tengu, fire dance

fire dance

 As fire lights the torch gets exciting. Fire is great. especially at night. I guess fire would awaken the memory of ancient times. The accompanied music sounds sometimes high, sometimes low, sometimes fast, and sometimes slow along with the dance movement. The whole audience is drawn into the fantasy world.

Tengu & Shishi

  In this place, you can see everything that you have seen till this time. You find that all you saw in daylight mean like fitting peaces into place together like a puzzle. Shishi is not killed, calmed down and becomes obedient. All the world have become happy.

Shishi

Shishi & Tengu

kojo

kiriko on the Shishi




 There is a specific scene in “Iwai-bana”,too. It is called “ko-jo”. Literaly translated, this means ”to state”. What they say is to celebrate the house or people, etc. Every “Kojo” is fixed sounding rhetoric. This is one way to enjoy it.

Rokudoji station

Manyo line

 Every event will end between 8:30 to 9 pm. It would be suggested to stay in this town or go to stay in Takaoka city. The last train starts at 11 pm but only two trains ran an hour between 10 and 11 pm. Don’t forget to get a number ticket.




Report: Shall we watch a sketch comedy in Kyoto? ~Senbon Enma-do Dai Nenbutsu Kyogen 千本ゑんま堂大念仏狂言

 This time, we will go to Kyoto. One of the most popular cities in Japan. The No.1 sightseeing place that most tourists from other countries want to go to. I guess Kyoto is a kind of symbol of old traditional Japan. There are many tourist spots, temples, shrines, castles and old streets. Today we’ll talk about another special sight. This sight introduces traditional folk performing arts with masked characters.
 There are three sketch comedies with masked characters, named “Nenbutsu Kyogen”. “Mibu Kyogen”, “Saga Nebutsu Kyogen” and “Senbon Enma-do Nenbutsu Kyogen”. “Kyogen” is performed in the intermission of Noh performances. In contrast to Noh, they tend to be comedic. It means just a play, too. And “Nenbutsu” is a Buddhist invocation. So, “Nenbutsu Kyogen” is a play in which stories are based on the daily lives of average people to propagate Buddhism. Two of these, “Mibu Kyogen” and “Saga Kyogen” are pantomime, but only “Senbon Enma-do Kyogen” has dialogue.

*Reference

 Mibu Kyogen 壬生狂言
Date: 3rd February, 29th April~5th May, 3 days around 10th October
Location: Mibudera-temple
refer→https://www.discoverkyoto.com/event-calendar/may/mibu-kyogen-mibu-dera/ discover Kyoto

Saga nenbutsu Kyogen 嵯峨念仏狂言
Date: 1st Sunday & 2nd Saturday & Sunday April, The Sunday nearest 26th October
Location: Seiryoji-temple
refer→http://www.greentour-kyoto.net/events/saga-kyogen/ green tour Kyoto

 Senbon Enma-do Kyogen 千本ゑんま堂狂言
Date: 3rd February & 1st~4th May
Location: Senbon Enma-do (another name, Injoji-temple)
refer→https://kansaifinder.com/event/senbon-enma-do-nenbutsu-kyogen/ Kansai Finder

  First, let to introduce today’s guide

 Now, I’ll call today’s guides. They are the most popular characters in Japanese National artwork treasures.

a part of National treasure
a part of National treasure “Chojyu-jinbutsu-giga”

 They seem to have come.

two characters come out from picture roll

Hi, I’m a rabbit.

And I’m a frog. But, why have we come here today?

To guide “Senbon Enma-do kyogen”.

Why?

Because we are born in Kyoto. Oh, we should introduce ourselves before we guide people. We are characters appearing in “Choju-jinbutsu-giga”. “Choju” means birds and animals. “Jinbutsu” means people. And “Giga” means “caricature” in Japanese. It has nothing to do with the capacity of a hard disk, “gigabyte”.

I didn’t know that at all.

Didn’t you know even though you are the important character? Oh,well. Anyway I’ll teach you, listen to me carefully. This is a picture roll which was painted only Sumi (Chinese calligraphy ink) without colors. It is said that this roll was painted about 800 years ago and the painter was Toba-sojo”. But that hasn’t been investigated in detail. The contents are caricatures. Especially, in the first volume, many animals are active like humans. People say this is the beginning of Japanese cartoons (Manga). So, this roll is the most popular in Japanese National art treasures. The Kozanji-temple in Kyoto stores it. So, we know most about Kyoto’s history from 800 years ago. Now, let’s go to Senbon Enma-do.

  Now, let’s go to the venue

*This article is written based on writer’s experience at 4th, May, in 2018 and a booklet.

Kamo river
the Kamo river

crowded in the city
the center of Kyoto city

There is the Kamo river. It always makes me feel good.

The center of the city is always crowded lately. Especially this week (from the end of April to the first of May) has consecutive holidays in Japan. There are many Japanese in addition many tourists from other countries. Hurry up. I can’t stand here.

Won’t you go to any sightseeing places? Kinkakuji-temple, Kiyomizu-temple, or Fushimi Inari shrine.

Where have you been? Are you a tourist? We have lived in this city for 800 years.

I think this is some nice occasion….

Injoji-temple
the entrance of the temple

the venue
the venue

This is the Injoji-temple, and another name is Senbon Enma-do.

What are we going to do? We have no money.

Don’t worry. It’s free.

Free? Sounds good. A little boy and a little girl are walking around people. What are they doing?

They are selling a description booklet for \ 500 (as of 2018).

I want one.

I’ll buy you one.

Oh, why do you have money? Why did you pay \1,000?

The reason why I payed more than \ 500 is to make a donation. I want to support them. Oh, it’s six pm. The first program will begin tonight.

This booklet has a description in English, too.

“Dojoji-temple”

I am a monk of this temple. I shall hold a memorial service with a bell. So, I tell my apprentice monks to carry a bell here. Ichiro-bo and Dabutsu-bo, come here. Are you here?

Here we are.

Here we are. This bell is too heavy.

I’m pleased that you came so quickly. I have not held a memorial service with a bell for long time. So, I want to hold the ceremony. Then, there is something important I have to tell you. Women can’t come here. Do you understand?

Yes, my master.

Dabutsu-bo
Dabutsu-bo

Ichiro-bo
Ichiro-bo

Why did the master tell us that we must never invite any women?

I don’t know. But we must be obedient to my master.

Ichiro-bo and Dabutsu -bo
silence

Shirabyoshi
Shirabyoshi (dancer)

Is anyone home?

Ichiro-bo had Dabutsu-bo get up

Shirabyoshi asks Dabutsu-bo

Hey, Dabutsu-bo, get up. This is no time for sleeping. There is someone behind the door. Go check quickly.

Who will come at such a time? May I ask your name?

Sorry for contacting you at this late hour. I am a shirabyoshi dancer and I live near. I have heard a memorial service with a bell. I was wondering if it would be possible for you to dance for a bell?

he surprised at looking at her

he told that beautiful woman is there

Oh, what should I do? Hey, dear Ichiro-bo.

You are noisy. What happened?

There is a shiradofu at the door!

Shiradoufu? What?

Do you happen to know shiradofu? It’s a dancer.

Stupid. If you said that, it would be a shrabyoshi.

Oh, my mistake. That is shirabyoshi. She is there.

No. We can’t invite any women.

But have you met a living Amida?*( like an angel in a sense)

Mmm…If you insist. If would be fine if dancing was all, but we have to return her as soon as possible after dancing.

She began to dance

and beautiful sounds

Oh, my gosh! What happened?

Oh, no. The bell has fallen down. Where has she gone? We have a situation! Go for Shisho-bo.

We have a situation

Shisho-bo prays

I thought so. The reason why I told you not to invite any women is that this bell is cursed by an ogre. Probably, The woman is an incarnation of an ogre. I shall break the spell.

an ogre has appeared

a master charms

Wow! An ogre really has appeared.

Help me Buddha!

An ogre! Drive it away!

a master is praying

an ogre has come

Oh,no! An ogre has come here. Help me!

ending

Help me!

Go away! Namu, Buddha.

Please Buddha! Namu Buddha! Namu ami dabutsu….

I won’t let you go. Yarumaizo! Yarumaizo!

“Botan-jishi” (Peony Lion)

Daimyo and Taro-kaja

I am a Daimyo (Lord) living around here. Recently, I am in trouble because a Shishi (Chinese lion) has damaged the peonies in my garden. So, I will call my retainer, Taro-kaja and make him crush the Shishi. Are you here?

I am here.

I’m pleased that you came so quickly. Look at this garden.

How beautiful the peonies are.

Yes. But a Shishi came here and damaged the peonies. Catch the lion.

Yes, my lord.

Taro-kaja is thinking

a Chinese lion

This is difficult. I have to be patient.

a Chinese lion

a Chinese lion acts

It is stronger than I thought.

Taro try to catch a lion

a lion damages Taro

Yes. I’ll try to catch the lion with this device. Oh, it is stronger than I thought. I’m no match for a Shishi.

This is Taro thinking

Taro imitates a Shishi

Well, I wonder what am I going to do now? OK, I’ll try to imitate the Shishi.

Taro and his Load

A Load is in trouble

I wonder if he can catch the Shishi. How did it go, Taro-kaja? What are you doing? Why are you imitating the Shishi? Oh, no! Stop, this is me!

I won’t let you go. Yarumaizo! Yarumaizo!

Intermission

It has gotten quite dark. It still gets chilly at night although it is May.

How about the play?

Although the characters say lines, it is easy to get the basic idea. It is the same as a pantomime. But what does “Yarumaizo” mean?

This words mean “I won’t let you go” or “Anyone can catch him.”. It is set phrase in a Kyogen play.

“Kanzaki watashi” (Kanzaki river ferry)

a tea house owner

A monk  drop in a tea house

I am a tea house owner living around here. Would you like a cup of tea?

I would like to have a cup of tea. Anyway, is this the right way to go to Sakai?

Yes. You should take a boat on the Kanzaki river just ahead.

I have little money. How can I escape from here?

a monk tries escape

a monk

Hey! Where will you go? Wait! Yarumaizo!

I’m sorry. Please forgive me….

Do you have enough money? How will you cross the river?

I will walk around or swim across the river.

No. That river is not easy to swim across and it is very deep. OK. I’ll teach you how to ride on the boat for free. The boatman loves cleverness and Waka (Japanese poems). So, you may say to the boatman that so and so…..OK?

That’s good to know. Huh? Oh no! I have forgotten the words. Things will work out. Hey, may I ride on the boat please.

I can’t give a ride to such a poor monk.

I am with 3,000 people. Let’s go! Thank you.

Are you alone? Where are the rest of the 3,000 people?

I told you that I am with 3,000 people, it means I’ll pay for 3,000 people. Right?

I see. All right.

Then, Mr. boatman. What do I see over there?

Ah, those are the human bones of people who didn’t pay for the boat ride.

I got myself into a mess….

What will happen to the little monk?

It’s going to be a surprise. Please watch and see for yourself. The next program is the last.

“Sennin-giri” (Saving a Thousand souls)

The last program is the conclusion. This is the end of this four day program.

  Well, let’s start getting ready to go home

It was interesting. It’s already half past eight. Shall we stay in the city?

No. Don’t you know how much it costs to stay in a hotel in Kyoto city this week? The capsule hotel usually costs about \ 3,000, but it costs over \ 7,000 this week.

What is a capsule hotel?

It is a kind of the lodging facility. It called a capsule hotel because the rooms are very small like capsules. Usually 2 capsule bed are loaded vertically and many of them are placed in a row. Only curtains or blinds separate the rooms from the corridor. It’s a simple hotel just for sleeping.

I didn’t know. Where do guests put their bags?

In the corridor in front of their bed.

Aren’t their bags stolen?

No. If you worry about this, you should not stay there. Bedclothes, a light, alarm clock and radio are supplied in each capsule and the shower room is in another place, too. Anyway, if possible, I recommend you should stay in Nara city. Nara is within one hour by train from Kyoto, the accommodation cost doesn’t change even in this week.

Nara! Sounds good. It’s an older city than Kyoto. I want to go to Nara.

You’re stupid. We live quite near. Let’s go home quickly.

I think this is some nice occasion….Arrogant. Just you wait.

a part of National treasure
a part of “Chojyu-Jinbutsu-Giga”

Two guys!
We’re looking forward to you being our guide again if we have a chance. See you next time, bye!

  *Refer
Kozanji-temple
You can see the scroll “Choju-Jinbutsu-giga” (Unfortunately, it is a replica, though. The original is stored in Tokyo and the Kyoto National museum.) and you can get many copies of these paintings. And, this temple is famous for its beautiful autumn leaves.
Access: It takes about 50 minutes from the center of Kyoto by bus, and 15 minutes on foot from the bus stop.




Report: Let’s go to see the festival in Tokyo~Ome grand festival 青梅大祭

Date:   2nd & 3rd May
Location: Ome city, Tokyo prefecture
Access: It takes over 1 hour from Shinjuku by JR Chuo line

The feature of Japan Festival

 Do you know how many festivals there are in Japan? In one theory, it is said there are three hundred thousands. In Japan, if you ask a Japanese what is your image of festival, most people would answer “Mikoshi” or “Dashi (or Yatai). An exemplary “Mikoshi” festival is “the Sanja festival” at Asakusa or “the Kanda Myojin festival” at Kanda in Tokyo, and an exemplary “Dashi” festival is “the Gion festival” in Kyoto or “the Nebuta festival” in Aomori prefecture.
 *What is “Mikoshi” and “Dashi”? Both a means of transportation for a deity. Dashi is no different from Mikoshi in terms of being a vehicle. Mikoshi is a portable shrine and people carry it on their shoulders. Dashi is a float decorated with various objects for a festival.

Mikoshi  the Sanja festival
“Mikoshi”the Sanja festival
https://matcha-jp.com/jp/4257 MATCHA

Dashi  the Gion festival
“Dashi” the Gion festival
https://souda-kyoto.jp/blog/00740.html そうだ京都行こう

Departure

 We can often see masked characters on Dashi in festivals. So, this time, we will go and see the Ome festival in Tokyo with our guides. Oh, where have they gone? Hey, it’s your turn!

Yellow and Red

Yellow and Red

What are you carrying?

We are going to Tokyo, aren’t we ? So, I wondered if I have to bring back gifts for our colleagues.

Stop being like a country bumpkin. We just get to Tokyo within 2 hours by train. (*They live in Gunma prefecture.)

But…

No! Let’s go!

*Who are they? If you want to know about them, please confer the article https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/04/26/part-2iidama-shrine-daidai-kagura/

What a surprise! There are so many people in Shinjuku station!

I can’t take it. Shinjuku is the busiest station in Tokyo (and the world) ahead of Shibuya station and Tokyo station. Tokyo Metropolitan Government office is in Shinjuku,too.

Ome is a town full of retro culture

 Ome city is located in western Tokyo and is the major gateway of excursion into the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National park.

 Ome is usually a calm town. There are still quite a number of vintage houses and many vintage film billboards. But only during the two days of the festival, this town changes.

They has come Ome city

So many people!

You were right. It’s better not to carry a big bag.

It is said that this festival gathers about 150,000 people. There are too many people that we can hardly move.

Welcome to Festival

"Dashi" a float decorated

"Dashi" a float decorated

Oh, a big vehicle is moving.

This is a “Dashi”. Each town in Ome city has a “Dashi”. There are 12 in all. There are various designs and decorations applied. These floats are so gorgeous that they are sometimes even described as a “mobile art museum”. To see each design of the Dashi is part of the attractions of enjoying this festival.

a white fox is on the Dashi

a red fox is dancing

dancing fox on the Dashi

First, foxes greet us.

Even foxes come in various kinds.

Yes. We will be able to find many masked characters on the Dashi.

Can we find other animals in addition to the fox?

Maybe. Not only animals, many various masked characters will be dancing on Dashi. This is not “Pokemon Go”, it’s “Maskman Go”. How many can we find them?

You OK?
Oh, on the Dashi, several musicians are playing traditional flutes and drums.

Ohayashi and dancer

ohayashi players are on the Dashi

They are playing music called “O-hayashi”. Especially O-hayashi played in festivals is called “Matsuri-bayashi”. It is designed to be performed with festival events and as such, the shape of performances and performer’s costumes can vary depending on the nature of the events. And an interesting point of this flute for festivals is that the musical scales don’t conform to either Japanese or Western music, because the finger holes are equally spaced to make it easier to make as well as to play.

many Dashi are in a low

many Dashi are in a low

With so many Dashi like this, I’m worried they might collide into each other. Oh, Dashi are coming from both sides.

two Dashi collide

a battle of ohayashi

People call the situation when two Dashi collide “hikkawase”. “Hikkawase”‘s “hiku” means to pull Dashi, and “awase” means to have them collide. It is the highlight of the festival. The time when more than two Dashi collide brings more excitement. This time is announced on the leaflet before hand or real-time on microphone. The leaflet is provided at the station free of charge. This leaflet tells the kind of each Dashi and where the Dashi will pass.

Battle of “Ohayashi” is worth seeing.

Let’s walk around a little.

Along the street

stall shops

Dashi passed in front of stall shops

stall shops in the festival

Many shop stalls are in a row along the road. What are they selling? Should we take a look?

Foods, drinks, Japanese cheap sweets and toys are on the shop stands. “Yaki-soba“, “Tako-yaki“, “Okonomi-yaki” are traditional old-timers of all the stalls at the festival. In addition, there are grilled corn, “Yaki-tori” and so on. I guess Yaki-tori and Tako-yaki are some of the famous Japanese cheap foods. Yaki-tori is grilled chicken skewer, like kebab. Tako-yaki is a flour based snack baked in the shape of little round balls containing pieces of octopus. Okonomi-yaki is a dish of thinly sliced cabbage mixed with batter made of flour, eggs and water and cooked on an iron grill. Yaki-soba is stir-fried noodles. Yaki-soba, Okonomi-yaki and Tako-yaki are added with Japanese salty-sweet sauce. Each costs about \4~500.

Everything looks tasty and smells good. I want to eat all of them.

Me, too.

What? Have you heard a strange voice from heaven?
…And, many toys are very colorful.

These are for children. But, most adults are excited to remember their childhood. These colors, smells, tastes and sounds. Every element enlivens people. I wonder if most festivals have such elements all over the world.

That hits the spot! Red pickled ginger goes with yakisoba and beer.

raccoon dog drinks sake
Woo, sake tastes so good

two modokis are arguing

the monkey
“It looks great”

You! Before I knew it. You are drinking alone.

many people walka in front of Dashi

many people is walking at the festival

Dashi is turning

many people is pulling Dashi

Every “Dashi” is moved manually, isn’t it?

It is the greatest highlight scene to turn the Dashi. For example, “Kishiwada danjiri (it is held at Kishiwada in Osaka) ” is famous. At this festival, the highlight is to turn the Dashi around with breakneck speed.

Mask collection

By the way, what kind of masked characters are there?

Let’s go to look for them.

What a great variety of masks there are. There are not only a fox but a raccoon dog and a bird.

These variety of masks all derive from Noh, Kyogen and Kagura*,and so on. They represent a deity, people or animals.
*Noh, Kyogen and Kagura are traditional performing arts since medieval times. Especially, Noh uses a lot of masks.
Foxes, raccoon dogs, or monkeys are active characters in folk tale. In stories, foxes and raccoon dogs bewitch people. In addition, foxes are messengers of the deity of rice planting.

a monkey
a monkey

a raccoon dog
a raccoon dog

a raccoon dog
a raccoon dog

Hey, raccoon dogs and monkeys are looking at us. I’m worried I might be bewitched.

Worship at shrine

This festival is for the deity of Sumiyoshi shrine. We go to shrines to worship.

Long steps….

How long the line is.

Hey! Don’t reach for sweets. It’s for children. Quit making a fool of yourself.

Sorry. I can’t resist sweet things. Anyway, what is this?

This is “Ibayashi”. It means they play “Ohayashi” without moving. In this period, they play and dance not only on the Dashi, but also on the stage like this. They are set along the road.

How long is the festival?

Until what time is this festival held?

On the 2nd of May, it is held from 3 pm to 10 pm. On the 3rd, it is held from 9 am to 10 pm. On the 2nd, the Dashi only moves in each town. So, I recommend to go on the 3rd.

The festival is still going on…

Take care. Come back again anytime.”

I am a little tired. We are almost out of time. Let’s go home.

Yes. Let’s drop by Shinjuku to have a quick drink on our way home.

That’s just like you I know. Let’s go!

*Reffer https://www.japanistry.com/event/ome-grand-festival/