Experience the Pure Land Right in the Heart of Tokyo ~Kuhonbutsu Jōshin-ji Temple: Mask-Wearing Ceremony 九品仏お面かぶり
Date; May 5—Every four years—Next time in 2028 Location; 7-41-3 Okusawa, Setagaya Ward, Tokyo Access; Get off at Kuhonbutsu Station on the Tokyu Oimachi Line; about 5 minutes (About 30 minutes from Tokyo Station) Get off at Jiyugaoka Station on the Tokyu Toyoko Line; about 15 minutes
This article is based on a visit of 2024, 5th of May.
The Area of Setagaya
Kuhonbutsu station
street of Kuhonbutsu
When most Japanese people hear “Setagaya,” they think, “Oh, that’s a nice place.” By “nice place,” they don’t mean it’s scenic. They mean it’s an area where slightly wealthy people live. In Japan, a country surrounded by the sea and mountains, there are plenty of scenic spots like this if you just venture a little way out of the city. Even a studio apartment costs about 100,000 yen a month. Many celebrities live there, too. That’s the kind of place it is. That’s why it’s very accessible. That’s why the station is located in the middle of a bustling city.
Just walking down the approach path opens up a whole new world. The temple is filled with trees and has a refreshing atmosphere. It’s also a popular destination for tourists, drawing crowds to see the cherry blossoms in spring and the autumn foliage.
The event is scheduled to begin at 11:00 a.m. A bridge for the Buddha to walk across has already been set up, and many onlookers are gathered around it.
The Buddhas Are Coming
First, the monks and worshippers move from the main hall to a hall on the opposite side called the Jōbon-dō, where a Buddha statue is enshrined. There, they put on Buddha masks, and the Buddha procession finally begins. To begin with, its official name is “The Assembly of the 25 Bodhisattvas Welcoming the Deceased.” This embodies the belief that when a person passes away, the Buddha will come from the Pure Land to welcome those who have performed good deeds during their lifetime. Here, the Main Hall represents the present world, while the Jōbon-dō Hall represents the Pure Land of Bliss; the performance is staged to depict the Buddha coming from the Pure Land to welcome the people.
One after another, 25 bodhisattvas proceed, guided by the strains of gagaku music. Even though it’s May, it’s hot. Since the masks apparently severely obstruct their vision, their attendants assist them and occasionally fan them.
The Bodhisattva, having gone to welcome the people, returns once more to the Pure Land of Bliss.
Although all Buddha statues look the same, the objects they hold do differ from one to another.
A heavenly show lasting just under an hour.
People leave the temple, with its fresh greenery, hoping for a little happiness.
Watch an Ancient Mask Parade in the Historic Capital ~ Gigaku parade at Yakushiji temple 薬師寺伎楽
Date; Every year on May 5 Location; 457 Nishinokyo-cho, Nara City, Nara Prefecture Access; A 1-minute walk from Kintetsu Nishinokyo Station Approximately 40 minutes from Kintetsu Kyoto Station or Kintetsu Osaka-Namba Station to Nishinokyo Station via Yamato-Saidaiji Kintetsu Yamato-Saidaiji Station —Bound for Kashihara Jingu-mae / Tenri— Nishinokyo Station
This article is based on information as of May 5, 2018.
Nara, the Ancient Capital
Naramachi
Nara is a curious place. Although it boasts a history even longer than Kyoto’s, it lags far behind in terms of its current presence. People from Kyoto casually remark to residents of other cities, “Our history is in a league of its own,” yet they seem to completely overlook Nara. That said, Nara doesn’t go out of its way to assert itself on this point either. While Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe see fierce competition among the Hankyu, Hanshin, Nankai, and Keihan railways, in Nara—aside from JR—only Kintetsu seems willing to operate.
Nara—a town where, as you turn a corner, you might just expect to see an ancient figure appear
Yakushiji temple
There’s a certain mid-afternoon languor in the air, and it almost seems as if the city has forgotten all about tourism. It’s a place so laid-back that it wouldn’t be surprising to see deer leisurely grazing right in the middle of the city. What’s more, it’s surprising to learn that those deer are actually wild—they have no connection whatsoever to Nara Prefecture, Nara City, or even temples like Tōdai-ji or Kōfuku-ji.
Gigaku Mask Parade
One reason might be that, unlike Kyoto, the city center is concentrated around Nara Station, while other areas are scattered farther away, and there is no hub connecting them. To reach Yakushi-ji Temple, the setting for today’s event, you have to take a train from Nara Station.
Chidō—A guide on the Way
At 4:00 p.m., the Gigaku mask parade finally begins. Gigaku is a performing art that was introduced from the continent along with the arrival of Buddhism in ancient times; it is thought to have been used to convey Buddhist teachings in an understandable way.
Shishiko and Shishi—Shishiko is the one who controls Shishi
The reason it is thought that way is that, in fact, only the masks of Gigaku have survived, while the art form itself ceased to exist in ancient times. Furthermore, there are very few records of it, and not even a mask remains on the original continent from which it came. For this reason, its true nature remains unknown.
Taiko-fu and Taiko-ji (Taiko family)
The precursor to the modern lion dance. Known as the “lion walking the road,” it appears very simple and strongly animal-like when compared to the modern lion dance.
Go-o
Go-jo
Go-jo
Go-ō and Go-jo. Go was one of the states that once existed in China. Its Chinese name is Wu.
Kongo and Rikishi
Konron
Baramon
Both the Kongō and the Rikishi are guardians of Buddhism. Even today, it is common to find two statues of Kongō Rikishi enshrined at the entrance to Japanese temples. Konron (known as Kunlun in China), on the other hand, is portrayed as an enemy of Buddhism. It is said to have originally represented barbarian tribes. The practice of denigrating foreign peoples by depicting them in beast-like forms was common in various regions throughout ancient times. A Brahmin is a high-ranking Buddhist monk in India.
Karura
The name “Karura” is derived from the Garuda bird that appears in Indian folklore. In Japan, it is also said to be the prototype of the crow tengu. The costumes and masks were reconstructed by experts in their respective fields based on surviving artifacts. Since Tenri University played a central role in the project, the parade is performed by Tenri University students.
Suiko-ju
“Suikojū” means “a servant who is drunk.” It is also said that the term originally referred to a people from the west.
Suiko-o
Emperor
That king is the “Suiko-o King.” His face is bright red. Unlike modern masks, this one covers his entire head, which makes him look comical, but he isn’t actually being silly—it’s simply the mask as it has been preserved.
Grand festival of Genjo Sanzo
Actually, this is part of a religious ceremony called the “Genjō Sanzo Grand Festival.” In Chinese, Xuanzang Xuanzang was a monk who once traveled to India in search of Buddhist scriptures. He is famous from the Chinese story Journey to the West. After the parade, an original story depicting Xuanzang’s hardships will be performed inside. However, only those involved are allowed inside.
Outsiders can look in from the outside. It used to be held in a large venue set up outside, but now it takes this form.
Mandou-e 万灯会 ~Evening of Many Lanterns
It was already past 7:00, and it was beginning to get dark. The actor playing Xuanzang lit the first fire, and the participants followed suit, each lighting their own.
As people loses theirselves in the fantasy of the masks, peoples thought drift to ancient times, and the night in Nara draws to a close.
Tracing the Origins of Kagura in the Holy Grounds of Izumo ~1. Odochi Kagura 大土地神楽
*Google Maps lists it as “Daitochi,” but the correct name is “Odochi”—it’s a mistake.
Date; One day during the Golden Week period in May: Kagura Dedication Ceremony at Izumo Taisha Saturdays from late May to early June: Evening Torchlight Dance at Inasa Beach The Friday and Saturday closest to 25 October Location; Odochiko shrine 2425 Kizuki-Nishi, Taisha-chō, Izumo City, other
Access; About 1 kilometer from Izumo Taisha-mae Station, a 15-minute walk To get to Taisha-mae Station, take the Limited Express Yakumo from Okayama to Izumo City Station. From there, take the local line. There are other overnight trains departing from Tokyo, but they’re as popular as concerts by famous singers, so it’s very difficult to get tickets.
Shimane Prefecture is famous for Iwami Kagura. However, Iwami is in the western part of the prefecture, while in the eastern part—Izumo—there is another style of kagura known as Izumo Kagura. This article introduces the Odochi Kagura, one of the Izumo Kagura traditions.
Many Japanese people dream of visiting Ise and Izumo someday. These are the locations of Ise Grand Shrine and Izumo Grand Shrine, two of Japan’s most iconic shrines, and they are revered as Japan’s most powerful spiritual sites. In particular, Izumo Taisha is renowned as a shrine dedicated to the god of matchmaking, which is why it attracts so many visitors. Izumo is also a region where many ancient mythological tales have been preserved. It is also famous as a place where gods from all over Japan gather once a year. In other words, the land itself is imbued with divinity.
Looking for the Origins of Modern Kagura
In fact, Izumo is not only the land of mythology, but also the birthplace of kagura. Although it is said that the origins of Kagura date back to mythological times, the form we see today took shape hundreds of years ago.
The most famous of these is the Sada-shin noh at Sada Shrine, which is said to have been created by incorporating Noh theater techniques learned in Kyoto. Because it was of such high quality, it is said to have influenced many forms of Kagura in the surrounding areas and throughout the Kanto region.
And here is another form of kagura that is considered to be one of the origins of the tradition: the Ōdochi Kagura.
Odochi Kagura
With winter fast approaching, the days are getting shorter. After walking for about 15 minutes through the old town as dusk falls, you’ll come to Ōdochi-ko Shrine. Actually, this Kagura performance is scheduled to start at 6:00 p.m. and end at 2:00 a.m.! (For questions like, “How am I supposed to watch it with so little time?”—I’ll explain that later, so please check that section.) It’s such a small place that you’d never guess it’s a shrine that passed down the famous Kagura tradition. There is a stage in front of the shrine. As the surroundings grow completely dark, the audience is drawn to this spot, as if they had wandered into another world.
Overview of Odochi Kagura
A total of 17 performances were presented that day. The program was particularly ambitious, featuring the revival of the Sarutahiko performance, among other highlights. Looking at the overall flow, the performance begins with ritualistic segments (which are performed without masks), and gradually becomes more theatrical as the children and the masked performers interact.
A play in which the mountain god chases a child and eventually catches him. The background story is that the child is actually a messenger of other gods who has come to summon the mountain god.
Headline Performances
Tamura
This is the story of a general named Sakanoueno Tamuramaro who fought against bandits entrenched in the mountains. General Tamuramaro was a real historical figure who, acting on the orders of the emperor who established the Heian period (8C~12C), subdued the Tohoku region. He was the first person to be appointed general, and although he was a skilled warrior, he is said to have been deeply compassionate toward his enemies, which has made him very popular.
Sankan
A play based on the legend of Empress Jingū* and her loyal vassal, Takenouchi no Sukune, who conquered the three kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula. One of the most popular performances in this kagura. *Empress Jingu →Empress Jingu was also a real historical figure. Since she appeared during a time when the line between myth and reality was blurred, little is known about her in detail. However, despite being an empress, there are many stories about her, and her expedition to the Korean Peninsula is one of them. Furthermore, the fact that the Emperor is referred to using the character for “god” makes him a special Emperor, and the use of that same character for her, as Empress, is deeply mysterious.
Just when you thought Empress Jingu was simply standing in the background…
(Empress Jingū) as soon as she saw that the Sukune were at a disadvantage, rushed out herself and defeated all three of them in one fell swoop. Her gesture, as if to say, “How about that?” to the audience, was just like something out of professional wrestling. The audience couldn’t help but get excited.
Kojin
Messengers from Amaterasu came many times, but each time, Okuninushi remained loyal to her. Finally, Amaterasu sent a warrior named Takeminakata to subdue Okuninushi. However, her son refused to accept this and challenged them to battle, only to be defeated and forced to flee. This play is based on that myth.
This story is about the younger days of Okuninushi, who appeared in the previous performance. It tells the tale of how he was bullied by his brothers but eventually defeated his wicked older brothers and built a peaceful country.
Yato
This performance depicts one of the most famous episodes in mythology: Susanoo’s battle against the (Orochi) eight-headed serpent. In a sense, this performance best exemplifies the defining characteristics of this kagura.
To briefly summarize the story: When Susanoo arrives in this land, he notices a parents and daughter crying. The father explains that every year, Orochi comes and they are forced to offer their daughter as a sacrifice. He adds that this year it is the turn of their eighth and final princess. Then Susanoo devises a plan and successfully defeats Orochi—that is the story.
In recent years, in western Japan, the influence of Iwami Kagura—which originates in the western part of Shimane Prefecture—has been significant. In particular, the depiction of Orochi, the giant serpent coiled in a spiral, can be seen widely from Kyushu to Okayama. However, here, the figure is simply depicted with a human-like body and a tail. This is a form commonly seen in Kagura performances in the Kanto region. Since it was introduced to the Kanto region before the Meiji era, it still retained this simple form at that time. And this kagura, too, continues to preserve its ancient form. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2022/10/05/entertainment-by-the-name-of-iwami-kagura/
But putting that aside, it’s simply a fascinating form of Kagura to watch. The unique movements, the chants, and the lavish costumes reminiscent of Noh—everything is filled with a power that leaves the audience in awe. If you ever get the chance, you definitely won’t regret seeing it live.
Additional information ~What to do at 2 a.m.?
The Kagura performance ends at 2:00 a.m. as scheduled. While locals may be fine, what are tourists supposed to do? 1. Of course, there are several places to stay near Izumo Taisha. However, since it’s a tourist destination, prices tend to be high. 2. Option 2: Stay near Izumoshi Station. There are more accommodations near Izumo shi Station. However, it is more than 8 kilometers away from Taisha-mae. Since it’s late at night, there is no public transportation. In such cases, I recommend using a bike-sharing service. You can rent a bike for a low fee, and it’s available even late at night. It’s also convenient because there are cycle stations at both Izumo-shi Station and Taisha-mae Station. The tourist information center at Izumo City Station will explain how to rent one. For those who feel it’s a waste of money to stay at a hotel late at night, there’s always the option of a 24-hour café near the station. While it’s not as comfortable as a hotel, you can still take a nap in a private booth.
Date: Spring through fall (peaks in April and October) Location: Sado 佐渡 Island City, Niigata Prefecture Access: From various locations to Niigata 新潟 Station or Niigata Airport. From there, take a bus to Niigata Port, from where there are steamers to Sado Island. From Tokyo, it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours by Shinkansen to Niigata Port. There is also a way to get there from Naoetsu 直江津 via Naoetsu Port. From Niigata Port, you can go to Ryotsu 両津 Port, and from Naoetsu, you can go to Ogi 小木 Port, which are different arrival points.
There is an island where groups of drummers go from house to house. And they are demons, no less. That name is Sado Island. Across from Tokyo lies Niigata Prefecture. From there, it’s another 30-minute to one-hour boat ride. It is the second-largest island in Japan, after Okinawa. There is a day on that island when demons visit every home. And the people look forward to it with anticipation. They say the demons are messengers of the gods. They are called oni, and the act of them beating drums is known as “Oni taiko (ogre drums).”People say this island is a treasure trove of performing arts. Among them, the most representative is this “Oni Taiko.” The locals also call it “ondeko. From spring to fall, the sound of taiko drums echoes throughout the island, and Oni dance in the air. There are more than 120 of them. It is true that the island is as large as the 23 wards of Tokyo, or about half the size of Osaka, but there are still many of them. Let’s take a look at what kind of Oni-daiko the islanders love so much.
Oni-daiko is an extremely simple art form consisting of a single drum, a drummer, and a dancer, the Oni. Oni Taiko festivals do not have a mikoshi (portable shrine) or pull a dashi around as in regular festivals. Instead, they do something called kadozuke 門付け. Kado means gate, and tsuke means to drop in, which means to visit each door. This is an old custom in which performers go from house to house to bless their families and in return receive a reward. In the past, many performers earned their money that way, but nowadays, the main purpose is to walk around blessing each house as God’s representative, rather than for remuneration. There is Ise Kagura centered in Mie Prefecture and a group of kagura performers who still travel over a wide area in Iwate Prefecture in the Tohoku region. Therefore, even if you go to the shrine on the day of the festival, there is nothing there. After the first and last dedication at the shrine, the group goes out to the community.
A day at Oni Taiko starts early in the morning. First, the group heads to a shrine. There they dedicate first formal dance. After that, they go to the village and perform the dance from door to door. Sometimes there are more than 100 houses in a village. When a group of taiko drummers arrives, people entertain them by preparing hospitality. If requested, a designated dancer other than oni may also dance. In addition, the masks may be displayed there for a time in the house where the original masks were made, or a special dance may be performed. After visiting all the houses, they return to the shrine to perform the dedication dance. It is not unusual for the dance to end around 10:00 p.m. This is why young people are always needed for the physical strength of the dancers.
There are several classifications of oni taiko according to the way it is performed. There are three major categories, and five more detailed categories are often used. In order to avoid complications, we will inquire about three types. Types include the Maehama type, Aikawa type, and Kuninaka type, named after the region. The most commonly seen is the Kuninaka type , in which two Oni, A (open-mouthed, not “ei”) and Um (closed-mouthed), dance alternately. This type is about 60% of the total. It is a form that was adopted by masters who learned Noh in the past. Therefore, the basic movement is to use a slip. The dance is also characterized by the intensity of the “A” and the quietness of the “Um”. Sometimes Shishi ( lions) is involved, which makes the dance more dynamic. Maehama type is two oni facing each other and dancing. Sometimes a dancer wearing a mask with only the upper half of his face, called Rouso, joins them. The roso is the highest-ranking dancer in the group. And the Aikawa type is often seen in the northwestern part of the island. Here, oni appear but do not dance. They just stand there with a spear. Instead, a dancer wearing an old man’s mask dances with a square to hold beans.
Representative Oni-daiko
Niibo-funashimo（新穂舟下）
There are four shrines with the same name, Hiyoshi Shrine, in the Shinbo area, and oni taiko drums are dedicated to one of these shrines at a festival on April 13. Kuninaka style with two oni dancing with their mouths open “a” and mouth closed “un”. When the drums are set up, they begin to beat the drums from the back side. One by one, oni dance to the rhythm of the taiko drum, with their steps based on the rhythm of the drum. The oni tries to beat the drum, but two lions appear as if to prevent them from doing so. The oni calm them down, brush them off, and move toward the taiko drum.
It is dedicated to the autumn festival of Kumano Shrine in the district located facing the mainland. The Maehama style features two oni, one red and one blue, dancing relative to each other at the same time. A lion also makes an appearance, but it is a large lion that can hold seven adults. In addition, there is an instructor named Roso, who wears a mask with only the upper half of his face. Roso sometimes dances, and sometimes looks down on the whole group to keep it together.
It goes around all the houses and comes back to the shrine again at the end, and the lion’s climb up the stairs that takes place at that time is worth seeing. Not only do they climb up, but the front tries to go up while the back tries to go back down. The lion’s hesitation is what makes the performance so powerful.
The Aikawa style of Onidaiko, which began in the Aikawa district, is named Onidaiko, but despite the name, the Oni (demons) do nothing. Or, not even Oni. The main actor is an old man (a virtuous old man), holding a bean-throwing square in his hand, which can often be seen in Setsubun 節分 (a ceremony held in February to drive away evil spirits). For example, in the Aikawa district, the birthplace of the festival, two people holding long swords simply stand there. Only the ogo (master) dances to the rhythm of the taiko drums.
Kita-Kawachi Matsuri (北川内祭り）
In addition, there are composite style festivals. For example, in the Kitakawachi district, three lion dancers appear before a bean-throwing Okina. The three lion dances are no different in content from the lion dances that can usually be seen mainly in the Kanto area.
Add to that the mysterious mask of “Tsuburo”. Tsuburo appears between the lions. After that, the old man makes his appearance.
There are many other types of oni taiko with distinctive characteristics, such as the one-legged dancing style. It is no exaggeration to say that there are as many different oni taiko as there are districts and festivals. Sado is also a region that has handed down a variety of performing arts, not only oni taiko. Every year at the end of May, a festival is held to bring together all of Sado’s performing arts. Sado is an island where old Japan can be seen everywhere, and it is well worth a visit.
Report; Simple, powerful Oni dance~at Hata Choukoji-temple
Date; Every year on May 5
Location; Hata Chokouji-temple 畑朝光寺、 609 Hata 畑, Kato City, Hyogo Prefecture
Access; The nearest stations are Takino or Yashiro. It is about 12 kilometers from there. There is a tourist information center at Yashiro Station, and bike-sharing services are available at both Yashiro 社 and Takino 滝野 stations (Next to Yashiro Station), which anyone can use.
It takes about 40 minutes (one train per hour) from Kakogawa to Yashiro or Takino Station via the Kakogawa Line. It takes about 1 hour to get to Kakogawa from Osaka.
*visited on May 5, 2026
Prologue
Kato City in Hyogo Prefecture isn’t exactly a well-known town. When people think of Hyogo, they usually think of the port city of Kobe in the east, or Himeji in the west, home to the World Heritage Site Himeji Castle. Kato City is an inland town located roughly halfway between the two. In a rather remote part of that town stands a temple designated as a National Treasure, where a “Demon Oni Dance” is said to gather many people. What’s more, they still use “Oni” masks that were crafted over 400 years ago. I wondered exactly what kind of dance it was. I felt I had to go and see for myself, so I set out on a trip.
Let’s watch the “Oni” dance
Schedule
The monks will enter at 1:00 p.m., and the Oni dance will begin at 1:30 p.m.
Stage
According to tradition, Chōkō-ji Temple was relocated to this site in the 12th century. The main hall, which records indicate was built in the early 15th century, is designated a National Treasure, and the bell tower is an Important Cultural Property.
A large crowd has been eagerly waiting for over an hour, as if every moment counts. Most of them appeared to be locals. A stage has been set up in front of the main hall, and the audience is waiting, surrounding it on all sides. The poster of the “Oni” on the bulletin board also gets crowd exited.
It’s finally time to begin
The dull, distinctive sound of a temple gong rings out. The first character to appear is “Okina.” While ‘Okina’ literally means “old man,” here he serves as a sort of harbinger of things to come. He comes out twice, holding a torch.
And then, finally, the “Oni” appear. At first, they come one by one. First, a red Oni holding a torch.
Next up is the blue Oni wielding an axe. All the Oni stomp their feet powerfully on the ground as they approach.
Finally, Oni wielding a long sword appears. All of the masks look quite old. That’s because they are still using the original masks, which were made around the 14th century. Although they would ideally like to create replicas, those involved say it would be far too costly.
One’s movements are simple. They just walk, jump, and leap while changing direction. They simply stomp the ground powerfully, thud, thud. This originally had the meaning of driving away evil spirits from the land by stamping one’s feet firmly on the ground.
Unfortunately, although there are supposed to be four characters, only three appear this time. That said, each one exudes the distinctive aura of a traditional mask.
Next, the three of them appear together and cast curses on the rice cake displayed in the center. This lasts about 40 minutes and ends around 2:10 p.m. Afterward, the rice cake is cut into small pieces and distributed to anyone who wants some.
Impression
As for sound, there is nothing but the monotonous clang of a gong. The movements are equally simple: walking, stomping, and leaping. Yet despite this simplicity, the space has a mysterious quality that seems to be imbued with a divine presence. Perhaps this is due in part to the power of the ancient masks, or perhaps it stems from the weight of a tradition that has been passed down for hundreds of years. How one evaluates this experience can only be left to the impressions of those who have actually been there.
Incidentally, among the spectators surrounding the area, none of those seated on the steps of the main hall had set up tripods. Perhaps there is some unspoken rule.
Heading to Hata Chōkōji Temple
How can tourists visit the temple?
The only public transportation option for getting to the nearest station is the Kakogawa Line. However, the Kakogawa Line is a single-track local line with only one train per hour. Therefore, to make it on time, you need to leave Osaka shortly after 8:00 a.m. and transfer from the Kobe Line to the Kakogawa Line at Kakogawa Station. It’s quite inconvenient. The main event is scheduled to start just after 1:00 p.m., but just in case something comes up, you can safely assume that the 9:00 p.m. Osaka time is the latest you’ll need to be there. Additionally, even though it’s more than 10 kilometers from the station, there’s no public transportation. Tourists would have to go by bike or on foot, but since walking isn’t a realistic option, a bike is the only choice. Fortunately, however, there are bike-sharing services available at Takino Station and Yashiro Station. The bikes can be rented cheaply with a simple registration process. Yashiro Station also has a tourist information center, so while it’s a bit farther from the temple, it’s convenient for tourists who aren’t familiar with the area.
So, I actually went there
This time, I brought my folding bike. I set off from Takino Station around 10:30 a.m. For a while, I rode along busy city streets, but…
Soon the road turns into a peaceful country lane, and once you see the banners, the temple is just around the corner. The path is mostly flat, so it’s not tough going.
There are convenience stores dotted along the road for about 5 kilometers, and there’s one near the temple as well, so you can pick up just about anything there. Even taking it easy, I arrived just after 11:30. It took a little over an hour.
Masked characters to be seen during the early summer holidays
Golden Week (early-May holiday season in Japan)
The cherry blossom season is over, the weather is getting warmer, and the young leaves are shining from the end of April to the beginning of May, which is a great time to visit Japan because of the warm weather and low humidity. In Japan, it is called “Golden Week” because of the consecutive holidays from the end of April to the beginning of May. Naturally, you can see various events all over the country at this time of year. Masked characters are also waiting for people to arrive in various places. Through these, you can come in contact with the valuable traditional culture of Japan that you cannot usually see. At the same time, it is an opportunity to experience the mysterious world of the masked characters.
Tokyo area
Ome-Taisai (grand festival)
In Tokyo, there is a festival called the Ome Taisai (Grand Festival). The festival is held on the 2nd and 3rd of May every year. Numerous floats parade down the main street, attracting more than 100,000 people. On this day, the sound of the musical accompaniment echoes from the morning, and simple stalls fill the streets. Masked characters ride on the float and dance to the music of the festival music. One of the highlights of the festival is when these floats face each other on the street and compete with each other.
The lion dance is performed at Tokumaru Kitano Shrine in Nerima, a little north of central Tokyo. It tells the story of three lions fighting against something and reconciling. This is a Kanto style of a lion dance seen widely from Kanto to southern Tohoku. Usually about 2 hours from about 2:00 pm.
Date 5th May
Location Kitano shrine, Tokyo
Access From Ikebukuro, take the Tobu Tojo Line to Nerima (about 10 minutes), then take a bus from Nerima to the Kitano Jinja-mae bus stop (about 10 minutes). It’s about a 20-minute walk.
Tamashiki shrine Kagura
It to Konosu 鴻巣 takes about 1 hour from Tokyo Station on the JR Ueno Tokyo Line. The earliest known date of production of the remaining masks is around 1600, which also indicates the antiquity of this kagura tradition. It is also an important intangible cultural asset of Japan. Kanto kagura is said to have been introduced from the Izumo region. This Kagura is one of the oldest and most valuable forms remaining.
Date 5th May
Location Tamashiki shrine (Kazo city, Saitama prefecture)
Access From JR Konosu Station, transfer to a bus bound for Kazo and get off at Kisai 1-chome. 8 minute walk. Alternatively, From Tobu Kazo Station, then change for the bus to Konosu and get off at Kisai 1-chome. It’s an 8-minute walk. The shrine is located in the middle of Konosu and Kazo Stations. It to Konosu takes about 1 hour from Tokyo Station on the JR Ueno Tokyo Line.
Haruna shrine Daidai-Kagura
Haruna Shrine is said to have attracted a large following as early as the 10th century. The main hall, which appears to be cradled by a massive rock, is in itself enough to give visitors a sense of this ancient faith. Additionally, a number of the sculptures have been designated as Important Cultural Properties of Japan. It is at this historic shrine that this Kagura is performed three times a year. The viewing platform, situated at an angle, is open to everyone. Would you prefer to look from below or from the side? Where would you choose to stand?
Date 5th May Location Haruna shrine (Haruna-machi, Takasaki City, Gunma prefecture) Access From Tokyo, take the direct service on the Ueno-Tokyo Line and Takasaki Line to Takasaki. The journey takes about two hours. From there, take the Gunma Bus bound for Lake Haruna for about 70 minutes. There is a break of about 10 minutes at a bus depot along the way.
Around Kyoto
Senbon-emma do dai-nenbutsu kyougen
From May 1 to 4, you can see Kyogen at Senbon Enmado in the northern part of Kyoto. Kyogen originally meant a lightly comedic play performed between Noh plays. From there, it can refer to a wide range of plays in general, or it can be performed independently of Noh plays. There are three famous Kyogen plays in Kyoto. And the characteristic feature here is using dialogue. All are comical plays with masks. Weekdays at 7:00 p.m. and holidays at 1:00 and 6:00 p.m. Both times are free. Each session lasts approximately 2-3 hours (perform several 30-minute plays). The pamphlet (for a fee) includes explanations in English, which is helpful.
Location Senbon-emma do
Access Take city bus No. 206 and get off at Sengen Kurama-guchi (about 30 minutes).
Performs at Mibudera Temple from April 29 to May 5 every year. The performance is a masked play without any dialogue. Each performance lasts about 4 hours and consists of several 30-minute plays. Admission is charged and photography is not allowed. There is a reference room in the basement where you can see the actual masks used here. You can also see photographic material.
Location Mibudera Temple
Access Walk from Omiya Station on the Hankyu Kyoto Line or take the Mibudera Michi bus stop. Kyoto to Omiya is about 15 minutes by train.
Manbu-oneri
An event to show the procession of Buddha. Originally, the word “oreri” meant a procession of people dressed in costumes. In the Buddhist world, there is a worldview that Buddha comes from the Pure Land at the time of death and takes us to the paradise world. So, the event to show this in real concrete form is the “oneri”. Basically, a large bridge is often built in a temple. This bridge is seen as connecting the other world to this one, where Buddhas come and go again. Those who wish to participate masquerade as the respective Buddha figures and appear to the sound of gagaku (ancient Japanese court music). The Buddha is decorated with gold, creating a very elegant world. Here at Osaka’s Dai-nenbutsuji Temple, even after crossing over, the Buddha shows us the glittering world of paradise inside the main hall. The festival is held every year from May 1 to 5. This is also a good advantage to reduce the crowds.
Location Dai-nenbutsuji temple
Access The nearest station is JR Hirano or Subway Hirano. Both are about 20 minutes from Osaka.
*On May 3, the festival will also take place at Saiho-ji Temple in the neighboring city of Kakogawa, Hyogo Prefecture. The nearest station, Hamanomiya, is about one hour from Kobe by JR line.
While it is a somewhat inconvenient location, given its long history and the quality of the masks, we simply cannot leave this place out. Three or four oni emerge. Each carrying their own weapon, they simply stamp their feet on the ground and dance. Date 5th, May Location Hata, Kato City, Hyogo Prefecture Access 20 km east of ‘Yashiromati Station’ or ‘Taki Station’ on the JR Kakogawa Line
A World Heritage Site, Chuson-ji temple is at the heart of the Hiraizumi area. Chuson-ji is particularly famous for its golden Konjikido (Golden Hall). The Fujiwara Festival is held at Chuson-ji Temple from May 1 to 5. Until the early 12th century, the Fujiwara clan, a powerful family, reigned here as the kings of the Tohoku region. Their wealth made it possible to build the Konjikidō (Golden Hall). This festival is held in memory of the Fujiwara family. The highlight of the festival is a procession of people dressed in ancient costumes on the 3rd, but various entertainments are also performed during the festival. https://hiraizumi.or.jp/en/event/aki_fuji.html
Hyakusika daigunbu (one hundred dear dance)
Deer dance is a representative performing art of the Tohoku region, which can be seen across Iwate and Miyagi prefectures. The deer dance is a stunning performance featuring two deer antlers on the head, raised eyes, hair made of horsehair, a drum held in front of the body, and two long sacred objects attached to the back. Seemingly from another world, they dance in groups of eight, beating drums and stamping their feet on the ground. The Hyakushika Odori dance is performed by more than a dozen of these groups, totaling more than 100 people, all dancing together. The group dances as if the whole earth were resounding! The singing voices that seem to come from the depths of the earth are like an invitation to another world, and the audience can’t resist. May 4, from about 2:30 p.m. in “Ohdori (the Main Street) Park area. There is also a theme park nearby called “Esashi Fujiwara no Sato”. This is a place where people’s lives in the 11th century have been reconstructed and is famous as a filming location for movies and TV dramas.
Access Access is not so good; about 20 minutes by car from JR Mizusawa Station. Buses depart every hour or two. Mizusawa Station is about 25 minutes from Hiraizumi by train.
Mimi Shrine in Fukui prefecture will be hosting an “Oh-no-Mai” event on 4 May (changed from the 1st to the 4th starting in 2025).
Fukui Prefecture is located north of Kyoto and west of Kanazawa. In the western part of the prefecture, a number of events called “Oh no mai” have been handed down from generation to generation. Of these, the twin peaks are the ones at Uwase Shrine (held on April 8) and this one at Mimi Shrine. The “ Oh no mai ‘ translates directly to ’dance of the king,” but in fact it has nothing to do with kings. Here at Mimi Shrine, the dancers wear red tengu masks and crowns with peacock feathers, wear vermilion costumes, and carry long spears. The elegance of the sight is simply mesmerizing, and it’s no surprise that it draws in visitors from within and outside the prefecture every year. The dancers perform an exhilarating one-hour dance sequence accompanied by the beautiful sounds of gagaku music. There’s even a theory that there’s a dance called “Ranryo Oh (king)” in gagaku, which may be the source of the name “Ou no Mai” . Fukui Prefecture has a long history of exchange with Kyoto. This may be the reason why such graceful dances remained and continue to this day.
Access Mimi Shrine is about 3 km from Mihama Station. Bicycle rental is available at the station. Mihama Station is about 20 minutes by train from Tsuruga. Tsuruga is served by the Shinkansen bullet train and is about 1 hour from Kyoto by limited express.
Chugoku area
Iwami kagura
It’s both a traditional art form and a form of entertainment. That is Iwami Kagura. This vibrant art form, originating from the western part of Shimane Prefecture, is deeply cherished by the local community and has captivated audiences not just in Japan, but also abroad. You will notice that there are two major types of kagura: regular performances and dedicated kagura. Regular performances are inexpensive and short. The purpose is to let people enjoy them casually at convenient locations. On the other hand, the purpose of dedicatory kagura is to perform for the gods at a shrine. They are held locally, last a long time, and all-nighters are not uncommon. In many cases, it is performed throughout the night. In general, there is no charge.
Major regular performances are held at the following locations.
Aquas Hassy Hiroba (アクアスはっしー広場) ：Gonotsu City (江津市）1~3 pm every day
Yunotsu hot sprin (ゆのつ温泉) ：Ohta city ( 太田市温泉津）８~9：30 pm every day
Shimane Prefecture has two regions, Iwami in the west and Izumo in the east. Iwami Kagura is traditional in the Iwami region. In the Izumo region, Izumo Kagura is transmitted. In contrast to the flamboyant and entertaining Iwami Kagura, Izumo Kagura retains a more ancient form. As a result, kamigakari ( a player falls into a trance and talks a message of gods) is also often performed. The origin of Izumo Kagura is Sada shinno (the dance created by those who studied Noh and applied it to kagura). For this reason, it retains a solemnity close to that of Noh theatre. While Iwami Kagura emphasises the extermination of *1Orochi (giant dragon), Izumo Kagura rather focuses on *2the opening of the Ama-no-Iwato.
*1 Myth of Amaterasu’s younger brother Susanoo, who has been banished from the heavens, exterminating the serpent that torments people.
*2 Amaterasu, angered by her brother Susanoo’s violent behaviour, hides behind Iwato (a cave with a huge rock door). The myth of the gods bringing her back to the world after the world had become dark because of this. This Izumo Kagura can be seen for a week during this period at Izumo Taisha, the home of Izumo. Each troupe performs during the day on a daily basis. https://www.gltjp.com/en/article/item/20576/
location Izumo taisha grand shrine
Access Izumo Airport or Izumo City Station from various locations. From there, take the Ichibata train to Izumo Taisha Station in about 30 minutes. To get to Izumo City Station, take the Sunrise Izumo night train from Tokyo. From Osaka, take the Shinkansen to Okayama and then the limited express.
Kyushu area
Amano iwato shrine spring festival
Miyazaki Prefecture is a place of mythology. According to the myth, the place where Amaterasu, the most important god, hid and darkened the world, and the place where the heavenly gods descended for the first time are also considered to be Miyazaki Prefecture. As a result, kagura is also popular, and Takachiho kagura is one of the most famous performing arts in Japan. The festival is mainly held in autumn, but Amanoiwato-jinja Shrine also holds large-scale kagura events in this season. This event is highly recommended for those who want to enjoy an authentic kagura. https://amanoiwato-jinja.jp/en/pages/30/detail=1/b_id=3/r_id=110/
Access Take a highway bus from Kumamoto Airport or Nobeoka Station to Takachiho Bus Center. Takachiho Shrine is a 15 minute walk from there. Amanoiwato Shrine is further reached by bus. 15 minutes.
This is the time when you can see other events of various sizes. We will be introducing them on this website, so if you find something you are interested in, we recommend you to see it there. After all, the live performance is the best memory.
Wishes and amusements of average people ~Utunomiya Futaarayama shrine
DAte: 28 days in January, May, and September each year Location: Babadori 1-1-1, Utsunomiya City, Tochigi Pref Access: 10 minutes walk from JR Utsunomiya station, 5 minutes walk from Tobu Utsunomiya station. 5 minutes by bus from JR station. Get off at Babacho Futaarasanjinja-mae bus stop. Utsunomiya is about 2 hours from Tokyo (1 hour by Shinkansen)
Here we introduce a typical form of regional Kagura from the Kanto region. Since kagura is often based on mythology. So it can be divided into two main categories depending on which mythology is the focus. The first is the Opening the Ama-no-Iwato, the resurrection of Amaterasu, the sun goddess. The second is the extermination of the Orochi by the malevolent god Susanoo. In western Japan, Iwami Kagura in Western Shimane Prefecture (Iwami district), which is rich in entertainment value, has had a great influence. The extermination of Orochi, giant snakes is very popular. On the other hand, in eastern Japan, including Kanto, which is also influenced by the eastern part of Shimane Prefecture (Izumo district). In Izumo (and Kyushu region), opening the Iwato is often regarded as important. And while Iwami Kagura has thoroughly devised ways to enhance its entertainment value and keep up with the times, Kanto Kagura has carefully maintained the original Izumo form.
This time we would like to introduce the kagura that has been handed down by Futaarayama shrine in Utsunomiya. The shrine is located almost in the center of Utsunomiya City, the prefectural capital. This shrine is the cultural center of the city where numerous events are held. The character for 二 in Futaarayama 二荒山 means 2. This is derived from the fact that it once sat on a mountain with two peaks. However, as the area developed, the mountain was split in two, and today it is no longer a mountain. This is proof of the prosperity of the area. official site of the shrine http://futaarayamajinja.jp/schedule-e/
Hachiman god vs Devils King
Kagura is said to have originally been learned from Edo (present-day Tokyo). However, whereas the Edo version retains a prestige that could be mistaken for Noh, this version remains in a truly rustic form. For example, there is a performance called “Hachiman-no-mai, Hachiman’s story” in which demons appear. According to the commentary, this is the story of Hachiman Maro’s extermination of a great demon king who has come from a foreign land and is tormenting the people of this country. Hachiman is the name of a well-known god of war. It is easy to guess that Hachiman Maro is the personification of this god. On the other hand, the demon is set as the Devil King. If this were Iwami Kagura, it would spew fire and rampage violently. However, the demon here rubs its hands together, as if shivering from the cold. And when the hero Hachiman appears, he is easily outwitted. He was simply taken by surprise. The ogre then shows a fighting posture. But what do you think? The demon is cornered and hides behind a pillar. Isn’t this the place where the clown, Hyottoko, is supposed to be?
In the end, the demons are easily subdued and dispersed without any good points. The battle, which would have lasted nearly an hour in Iwami Kagura, was over in only about 10 minutes here. This simplicity and unsophisticated style is both a bad point and a good point of Kanto Kagura.
A woman who is turned into an ogre
a young woman
a young man
Ogre woman transformed
Stronger demon also appears. A woman who is fascinated by a mirror of a young man turns into an ogre. First of all, the face is simple. They are not as artistic as Noh masks, nor do they have the power of a master craftsman who has poured his heart and soul into his work. This is not to say that this is a bad thing. On the contrary, it can be said that we can sense the pure appeal for entertainment of the people of that time.
Break before 12:00 after digesting four performances; resumes at 1:00. The shrine is in the middle of town, so there is no need to eat.
Open the “Amano-Iwato”
The second half of the show continues with a slightly longer performance. The opening of daytime is “Ama-no-Iwato-Open*”. This performance is an all-star show, so even if you missed the first half, you can get a general idea of what is going on by watching this performance. In this performance, Amaterasu is replaced by a mere mirror. For the common people, they would rather see the scene where Tadikarao (the most powerful man of the gods who opened the door of the rock where Amaterasu hid and threw it far away) throws Iwato away than the myth that the sun has returned.
After that, the Ebisu is already out. I am sure this is familiar to those of you who read this site. To explain briefly, Ebisu is a representative of the god who brings good luck to people. He is popular in kagura because he often actually brings good fortune (goods). Catch a fish anytime Here, the Hyottoko (the comedic characters in kagura) appear, and they seem to be more the stars of the show.
As soon as one Hyottoko stands up, the other pulls out a chair. That’ s classic comedy. This kind of performance seems to be common all over the world.
Sumō wrestling with a Hyottoko octopus
The performance becomes incomprehensible when the Hyottoko catches an octopus while he is supposed to catch a sea bream. Then they play Sumo (Japanese wrestling) with the octopus. Moreover, Ebisu, who is supposed to play the leading role, acts as the referee. Anything is possible.
When it’s over, it’s time to go. Susanoo’s extermination of the serpent. The officials threatened the children who were misbehaving under the stage, saying, “You will be eaten by the snake if you stay there. It seems to have that effect.
Orochi ~just like a old monster movie
Here, “Orochi” is called “O-hebi-sama. It is not wrong to say hebi (snake), since in mythology it is a serpentine monster with eight heads and eight tails. O” and ” sama” are honorific titles. Briefly, the story begins with Susanoo’s encounter with an elderly couple who are sadly doomed to dedicate their daughter to Orochi every year. Susanoo plans to give them poisoned sake to drink and exterminate them while they are at it. So the old man come out first. So far so good. But then, for some reason, a sake brewer who does not appear in other kagura appears. And he is Hyottoko. Nor does this hyottoko just make sake. It also plays a very active role in being attacked by the Orochi that appear. Normally, the main cast would be the princess and her parents, but for some reason, the main cast here is the sake brewer, who is a third party, so to speak. Although simplified, the main characters on this stage are the father, Orochi, Susanoo, and Hyottoko. And only Hyottoko is on the stage the whole time!
Finally, “Orochi” is here. It looks like something out of an old monster movie. Hyottoko is oblivious. This is another classic performance. The children shout, ” Orochi is right behind you! After such a classic exchange, Susanoo defeats Orochi. Easily. After Susanoo leaves, it is again Hyottoko who ends the stage by imitating him. Every place is different, and every item is different. It is clear that the importance of each performance changes depending on the region.
At the end, people involved in the event hand out mochi (rice cakes) to the audience. The event ends around 3:30. There were five performances in the morning and three in the afternoon. There are now thirteen different types of performances being preserved.
Japanese lion dance that can be seen in Tokyo~Tokumaru
Tokyo, the capital of Japan, consists of two parts: the wards and the rest of the cities and villages. There are 23 wards in total, and people usually think of these wards while they think of Tokyo. Among them, the area facing the bay is the most popular place and land prices are high. Tokyo Station, Asakusa, Shinjuku, and Ginza are all located in this area. Tokyo (then called Edo) has always been a place where people moved around a lot, and it was said that if one have lived in Edo for three generations, he or she was a native Edo resident. Nowadays, this is still the situation, and it is said that half of the people in Tokyo are of local origin with a slight irony . The “Tokumaru 徳丸 no Shishimai” (lion dance of Tokumaru), which is the subject of this article, is a valuable lion dance that still remains in the district. This is because it takes more than three generations to carry on the lion dance.
Date: 5th May, every year Location: 北野 shrine Tokumaru 徳丸 6-34-3, Itabashi 板橋 ward, Tokyo Access: ① Get off at Narimasu Station on the Tobu Tojo Line, take the Kokusai Kogyo Bus bound for Akabane Station West Exit from the ‘Narimasu Station North Exit’ stop (approx. 10 mins), get off at ‘Koubai Elementary School’, then walk for approx. 5 mins ② Approx. 15 mins’ walk from Tobu Nerima Station on the Tobu Tojo Line ③ Approx. 15 mins’ walk from Takashimadaira Station on the Toei Mita Line
It takes about 10-20 minutes from Ikebukuro, the center of this area, to Nerima.
This article is based on a 2017 visit.
Let’s go !
Even in the 23 wards of Tokyo, the buses are not frequent here, because the area is located on the periphery of the city. This is especially true during the daytime. For example, there were times when you had to take the 2:00 p.m. bus even though the event would start at 2:00 p.m. That said, there’s no rush; it doesn’t start immediately at 2:00. The rituals will be performed first.
Few buses, but the sun is nice. The beginning of May is one of the best weather periods of the year. Spring is over and summer is beginning, so temperatures are starting to get a little warmer, but not too much, and it is very comfortable. This time of year is commonly known as “Golden Week” in Japan. This is because it is a period of consecutive vacations, and unusually long vacations in Japan (though they last from a week to 10 days at the most) are possible.
In the lion dance grounds, Koinobori, carp streamers held high flutter in the wind. This is a digression from the main topic, but let me briefly explain about carp streamers. You may skip it if you like. In fact, May 5 is Children’s Day or Boys’ Day, a national holiday to wish for the growth of children. The carp is a symbol of growth, based on a Chinese legend. The carp is never hung alone, but usually several of them. They express the father, the mother, and the children. In the city, there is no place to hang a large carp streamer, and many people put up small ones on windows, but in the countryside, there are still many magnificent ones. Parents also decorate their houses with dolls that resemble warriors. If you go to department stores, you will find many such dolls on sale during this season. Inside the house, parents display a heroic doll representing a warlord. By the way, there is also a holiday for girls, which is March 3. At this time, too, parents decorate their homes with dolls, sometimes as many as a dozen or more in a row for girls, in contrast to only one doll for boys, which costs a lot of money.
Outline of Shishimai
The lion dance is performed by a group of three lions, which is common in eastern Japan. One person is in charge of one lion, and the drum is attached to the front of the lion’s belly and struck by the lion himself. The three lions are an adult lion (called Oh-jishi), a young lion (Naka-jishi), and a female lion (Me-jishi), respectively. The difference can be judged by the shape of the horns. In addition, there are Hanagasa (headgear with flower decorations), several flutes, and others.
Around 2:30 p.m., the lion dance finally begins. There are a total of seven performances that have been handed down. The first dance is performed in front of the house of the chief priest next to the shrine. In the past, the dance used to go around the town, but the current trend has simplified it. There are three main dances. They are ” Sasagakari,” “Hana-Meguri,” and “Makugakari. Kakeri” means to be involved with something, and “sasagakari” means to be involved with bamboo grass. Hanagasa stands in each of the four directions. This serves as a kind of boundary. In this case, the bamboos represent all the diseases and calamities of the world, and Shishi swallowing them is expected to have the effect of dispelling the calamities. Shishi (lions) keep their posture low and exert themselves to drive away all the calamities.
Hana-meguri ~Garden of strife
“Hana-Meguri” is a performance called “Female Lion Hiding,” which is a common part of lion dances in eastern Japan. In this performance, the three lions are initially friendly, but as soon as the female lioness disappears, a mood of disquiet envelops them. Here in Tokumaru, it’ s no exception. The three animals are in a state of friendly head-to-head contact. Eventually, only the female lioness disappears into the flower garden (hanagasa, or flower hats, are gathered together to form a flower garden). What’s happening?” Two lionesses ask each other, “What happened? The two males split up and go looking for it. Then young male finds the female first, and although he could have just reported right then and there that she was there, he doesn’t. He tries to monopolize the female. The older male lion comes later. Naturally, he’s not amused. A fierce battle ensues. This is repeated mutually. By the way, why did people in the past create such performances, and why did they continue to do so endlessly?
Maku-gakari ~beyond this world
The last performance is called “Maku-gakari”. As far as I can see, this is the most important performance in this lion dance. First, a curtain is placed in the center. In front of this curtain is a world filled with suffering. This is the world we are in now, or in Buddhist terms, this is the present world and the other side is the Pure Land. And they are interested in the world beyond. They timidly approach the curtain to see what appears to be going on.
The first to break through the wall is the lioness. Yes, the female always overcomes constraints with ease. At the time this was created, the restrictions on women were even stricter than today. Despite this, they may have seen that this is essentially what people are like. They seem to be sending a message that transcends time. “In fact, it is women who are the most free and courageous.” It is the young male who will be the next to overcome. Youth gives us more power than anything else. The oldest male lion is the last one left. The lions who went before them call out. “There is a wonderful world out there,” they say. “Come quickly.” He is sure they know this. But he can’t cross over, can’t venture out. That’s what it means to grow older. The things one carries become heavier and heavier. So he must be thinking, “If I go on an adventure, I might ruin everything.”
This “Ohjishi” is performed by the most seasoned veteran. The performers must have a certain amount of experience in order to express their anguish and conflict. So, when they overcome the difficulties, they are moved deeply. ”I can still do it. It is still too early to grow old. Only by continuing to boldly take on challenges will life shine brightly.” It seems that this Ohjishi are conveying to us the voice of those who lived long ago.
When this is over, it will be after 4:00 pm. It’s the end of all the performances. The early summer sun was already beginning to set.
Manbu oneri~The Luxurious World of Buddha at Dai nenbutu ji-temple ~万部お練り
Date: 1~5th, May, every year Location: Uemachi 1-7-26, Hirano district, Osaka city, Osaka prefecture Access: Take the Midosuji subway line from Shin-Osaka or the JR Loop Line from Osaka to Tennoji. From there, take the subway Tanimachi Line or the JR Yamato Line to Hirano. It takes about 5 to 8 minutes to walk from each station.
Introduction~ In Japan, if ogres dance, so will Buddha
In Japan, when ogres dance, Buddhas also dance. Although fewer in number than the ogres, there are also events in which Buddha appears. The most representative of these is the “25 Bodhisattva Parade”. From the middle of the Heian period (794-1185), the belief in the Pure Land began to flourish. It was believed that the period of 10,000 years after the death of the Buddha was the “the Latter Days of the Law” and that the Buddha’s way of life would be disturbed. As a result, people began to yearn for the afterlife. The Pure Land teachings taught that if people recited the Nembutsu diligently, they could go to paradise. This is the Pure Land faith. And just before death, the “25 bodhisattvas” come to greet us with the Buddha. The “25 Bodhisattvas Parade” is an attempt to recreate that scene.
Interesting Japanese paintings reappear
By the way, this site has previously introduced a strange painting called “Choju Giga” (Caricatures of Birds and Animals), and And there are many other wondrous paintings that seem to be the genealogical descendants of this. Now, in such a world of wonder, we may be able to see something like the following scenes. So, let’s go and see the world of Buddha with the characters in those scenes (the sparrows in the wondrous paintings).
Sparrow Kotota: Mr. Owl, I heard that ”Manbu Oneri” is held in Osaka, so I’m thinking of going there for a while.” Mr.Owl: That’s a good point. Faith will save you.
Sparrow Kotota: Oh, that must be Dai Nenbutsuji-temple.
The end of April and the first half of May in Japan is known as “Golden Week” because of the concentration of holidays, and people move around a lot. Seasonally, it is the transition from spring to summer, with good weather and the mildest climate. After this time, the rainy season arrives a month later. After mid-July, the summer season begins. Therefore, there are many events and activities. But it’s not all good. Unfortunately, the cost of transportation and accommodation goes up. The procession of the Dainenbutsuji Temple will be held during this period. The temple was founded about 900 years ago, but it is said that the hall was built in its current location about 400 years ago. However, the procession itself is said to have been held about 700 years ago.
a sub gate
the main gate
the precinct of the temple
Because of its long history, the precincts are large. A vermilion-lacquered corridor circled around the main hall. This is where the Bodhisattvas go around. Inside, food stalls lined the streets, adding color to the festivities.
It’s been less than an hour. I think I came a little too early. Oh, there are people gathering around the main hall. Let’s take a look there. The sky is clear in May. It’s a bit windys, though.
How crowded is this event?
the corridor
the entrance of the main hall
Excuse me, I’d like to stay here for a moment.
hurly-burly
Please, come in. Sit down. It’s free.
There are quite a few people here.
The festival lasts for five days, so it won’t be too crowded. Take your time for a while.
Oneri (Procession)~The Buddhas Walking
It’s almost one o’clock. Oh, the music is starting to play.
It’s the gagaku. It is one of the oldest musical forms left in Japan.
You don’t have to lean over so much, it’s still okay. At first it’s just the monks and parishioners walking by.
It takes about five minutes per lap.
It’s 2:00. It’s about to start. Here comes the first Bodhisattva
Fast. Much faster than before. It is so fast that I don’t have time to listen to the explanation, isn’t it?
There are twenty-five bodhisattvas, so I guess they would have to do this in order to make it in time.
But this parade is the main event.
That’s it. There are such circumstances in the world of grown-ups, aren’t there? It’s complicated, right?
In this way, I guess the faces of the Bodhisattvas are all the same, just with different possessions.
There doesn’t seem to be a broad scope of imagination when it comes to thinking about Buddhas and angels and other sacred things, does there?
Finally, the monks came out again.
That’s the end of the Bodhisattva procession, that was about half an hour.
Everyone is getting ready to leave.
If you have time, you can take a peek inside the main hall a little more. You can see the paradise.
Is that all right? I wouldn’t mind to peek in.
I doubt we’ll be able to get inside, but you can at least peek through the door. It’s a wide entrance.
Thank you very much.
Paradise inside the main hall
Kotota went to the door of the main hall as the former guest had told him earlier, and a number of people were peeking in. Inside, devotees are sitting and watching the ceremony. In the space where very beautiful and graceful music is echoing, he can see all the Bodhisattvas from earlier.
Here emerged a scene of the Buddhist paradise that the people long ago had imagined.
It seems that the Bodhisattvas are receiving something and carrying it over there, handing it back and forth….
It was already three o’clock. I’ve come in contact with Buddha today. I gained some good deeds and karma. Let’s have a look around Osaka and go back home. Or I’m not sure yet, should I go to Kyoto or Nara? Oh right. I’ll have to buy a souvenir for Owl.
In this way, Kotota went home satisfied. Happily ever after.
A picture scroll of the story of Sparrow Kotota, where he lost his child and became sad, but various birds gave him comfort, and finally he became a priest.
Report: Three Reasons for Going to Toyama~Part 2 The Lion Dance Day in Shinminto
Today, we will go to Shinmiato. Shinminato was a city’s name. It merged with other towns and became Imizu City. So it will be more easily understood when you say Shinminato rather than when you say Imizu even now. For those who saw Rokudoji’s Lion Dance (cf. part 1) and those who didn’t, although you can see the event of this special day, it is wasteful since you came all the way to Toyama on this day. It is said that you can see the lion dance anywhere in Shinminato all day long if you just go there. And you need not spend all day to see the Lion Dance. You can either go sightseeing in another place or can sleep at a hotel. But, all the more, I recommend you should spend all day watching this lion dance.
red part is Shinminato
In my case, I went first to “Kanayamachi” and “Yamacho-suji” in Takaoka city before going to Shinminato because I stayed in Takaoka. And I was too tired to see the lion dance because I had spent all day watching one in Rokudoji. I wanted to stay in bed. I was very tired. But I got out of bed just because it was my personal mission to tell people about the interesting aspects of masked traditional performing arts and I was born to be poor. “Kanayamachi” is the street that has elegant houses with delicate latticework characteristic of Japanese architecture that line the gently curving road. I love this town. It gives a floating impression which transports me to a different world just by being there. Both “Kanayamachi” and “Yamacho-suji” are “Important Preservecd Districts of Historic Buildings” (there are more than 200 of these districts) . In short, it is an old street that has been left as is. It doesn’t take a lot of time to see and walk around. Kanayamachi’s street is only 450 meters long. Yamacho-suji is only 600 meters long. I don’t know whether you wanted to walk around Takaoka or not, because you are going to Shinminato. However, where is Shinminato? This question, actually, was mine. I didn’t have knowledge of this town or the event. I was too late to get reliable information about the shrine. I had to depend on unreliable information on Internet that said “If you go to Shinminato on that day, you can get information everywhere”. As a result, I could get reliable information. Where is Shinminto? You will be OK if you get off at the station called “Shinminato” on the Manyo Line. It is safe to assume that everything to the west is Shinminato. To be specific, it’s Nishi Shinminato.
It was still the morning of a weekday. There weren’t many people but they were very enthusiastic. And then, I saw another group on a small truck pass by. I found two groups. Besides these two groups, I found the third group while I followed the first group. The words I happened to see that you can find the lion dance easily if you go to Shinminato on the day were not false. I was a little worried because I heard the rumor that recently, some groups changed the day to Saturday or Sunday near the special day. But this was worry for nothing.
another group pass by
Even though it was a weekday and there were few people, they were very active. Even though people have their daily jobs and children were in school, the mood was still very festive. I suppose that they had a spirit that we preserved this tradition and it is natural that the people who live in this town will support it. This feeling is natural, coming from the people themselves. Besides, I guess they don’t only want to preserve tradition, they just do it because it is very enjoyable. Both participants and citizens in the audience love this performing art.
The style is almost the same as Rokudoji (cf. Part 1). The composition of the group of the lion dance is pretty much the same. A lion, some Tengu, some Kiriko and musicians. And they wander around doing the lion dance in their area the whole day.
Tengu dnaces in perfect daily scene
Their theater is on the streets. They have no special facility, no special area with a shrine. The town where they usually live is the stage.
So, when they arrived at a nursery school, the children were already sitting down in front of their school. In this region, people think that watching this performance is educational and fun.
The Tengu carried a special torch. The performance time became longer, too. Even though it was in front of children, they didn’t cut corners. You can feel the spirit of the lion dance group. There are, of course, other people. But the participants perform solely for the children. When the group of the lion dance comes, the teachers have children watch it in a natural, relaxed way.
Children grow up watching the lion dance and have inherited this region’s tradition. Shishi, Tengu and Kiriko are their heroes like a TV show’s characters.
Next. I found the fourth group, “Shoto” on this day. Each area has a group of lion dancers in this district. Each group has done almost the same performance. If so, you say, its enough to watch only one group. No. Although I said “almost the same”, it doesn’t mean exactly the same. The design of the long covering each lion is different and the chants are different, too. Furthermore, the number of each group and territory are different. All of their performances in the morning finished at 1:30pm. They took a lunch break and the town got quiet again for a while.
Shiminato is an old town. It is not so much a historical town as it is a place where time seems to have stopped about 50 years ago. The town has been the setting for several movies, and recently a movie featuring the Hikiyama festival, with the festival floats held in September, was released. Perherps it is the unique atmosphere of this old town, which makes people feel nostalgic that has captured the hearts of filmmakers.
The afternoon sunshine, the endlessly flowing river and the calm sea will surely relax your tired mind. And then we notice that in the towns that pursue only convenience, there are no performing arts remaining.
Its just after 1:30 pm. Its almost time to resume. I turn to the city as if the tone of the music is inviting me again. I’ve been listening to it all morning, and I can hear the sound in my ears like an auditory hallucination all the time. There it is. It is “Higashi Shinmachi” I saw earlier.
In the afternoon, the number of people seems to have increased a bit. I was led to the plaza in front of the housing complex as I watched. Quite a few people had already gathered there. Other groups had gathered there as well. There, they are going to demonstrate their skill one after the other.
It was the “Nago cho” that appeared. Two Tengu came out there with torches. The flickering fire of the torch bewitches not only Shishi but also the audience.
In this way, it seems to be a momentary event, but the truth is that a lot of time has passed there, both physically and in terms of mood. The lion shakes his huge body, sometimes violently sometimes gently, as if in response to the Tengu’s torch. If the lion gives the lion-headed man a ride on its shoulders and threatens the Tengu, the Tengu also carries another Tengu on its shoulders and counters. When the lion comes running in, the Tengu uses his torch as if cleaning the ground. This is the technique that they can’t do or else both are in harmony.
After I enjoyed their performance enough, I got to see “lion slayer” for the first time. The performance of “lion slayer” is so unique one. I suppose that the origin of this performance came from “Kinzo-Shishi” in Gifu prefecture, next to Toyama. “Kinzo-Shishi” is a performance where a man called “Kinzo” fought Shishi that destroyed a farm. In this performance, Shishi appears as a bad being. However, the lion (Shishi) is a sacred animal originally. So people could be confused when they see this performance. I’m sure they probably had to say “What does this mean?” Now, they seem to have settled on the fact that they are not killing the lion itself, but getting rid of the malignant nature of the lion. It’s a quiet beginning. The tengu and the lion move freely in time with the music. When one swings to the left, the other is in tune with the music. This may be called a play in its entirety, but it could also be called a ballet or a musical in the sense that it is set to music.
The lion and the tengu are not evenly matched. If anything, the lion is stronger. The tengu is always frightened of the lion. If possible, the Tengu would like to avoid a head-to-head battle with the lion. This is expressed in the performance by the Tengu’s trembling legs. But here’s the crucial moment. Kiriko is captured by the lion.
The Tengu must save Kiriko from being captured by the lion. However, fighting the lion head-on was not a good idea. What should they do? Make him drink. The lion was so absorbed in drinking that he would ignore Kiriko. One of the highlights of the battle is when the lion raises a cask of liquor in his mouth in one fell swoop. This may have been the inspiration for the famous myth of the Orochi’s (being like dragon) extermination, as the same method is also used to slay the Orochi. Either way, the lion gets drunk and docile. This ploy works, and the Tengu succeeds in killing the lion, but as the lion gets drunk and gradually moves less and less, the tone of the music is exquisitely slowed down. The Tengu still managed to make sure that the lion was asleep. The staging in this area is so brilliant that it is hard to believe this is an amateur play, making everyone in the audience gasp. The Tengu would then “kill” the lion.
The lion is reborn. The symbol of this is the scene in which the lion stands up with Kiriko on his back. The music that had been suppressed until then explodes. The scene is very solemn. The local lady smiled and asked to me “How was it? Was it interesting?”. I looked at her and she looked a little proud.
I found a number of lion dance troupes after that. They were everywhere, in the back alleys and along the river. It would not be an exaggeration to say that the whole of Shinminato is steeped in the sounds of the lion dance.
After five o’clock in the evening, the town is quiet again. After this, the “Iwaibana”, so to speak, which is the most important part of the festival, will be held. As I walked through the quiet town, I happened to see a lion’s head on in front of the main hall of a large temple. An elderly person stands talking in the evening shadows. The pursuit of economic efficiency is always the focus of our attention, but this is the kind of quiet and modest life that has always been carried out in this country. If you have the opportunity to visit, I’m sure the town will tell you all about this and give you a glimpse of its little treasures.
Now, what is a “Iwaibana”? Quite simply, it’s a celebratory dance. When a family had a new house, marriage, or birth of a child, they would pay a lion dance troupe for the celebratory flowers. In response to this, the lion dance troupe would perform in front of the house. Of course, anyone could watch the performance. When the time came, people gathered to watch the performance. At that time, we happened to look for it on the Internet, but in fact, this is very rare case.
”Iwaibana” is basically the same as the one performed. It’s a lion slayer. However, the most distinctive feature of the performance is that in the middle of the performance, “Koj-jo 口上” (it means a “speech” congratulating the people of the house) is added. The words are fixed, and they say something like, “You have piled up a mountain of money for me”. However, because of the relationship with the house, various ad-libs are added. So it takes nearly an hour. During this time, the traffic is sometimes stopped on one side of the road, but nobody complains about it. Passers-by are eager to watch from even the other side of the road. This is the only day the lion dance is allowed to go unchallenged.
The sort of evening session of “Iwaibana” can continue until quite late, but you have to know where it takes place. If you are not a local, you can’t find it, but by that time, you can’t see it well because the crowds of people are like a mountain. So I had one idea. The idea was to follow people as they walked along, so that we could see the performance. Of course, it was a kind of a gamble, but I think it was a very effective strategy.
As a result, I was able to take a closer look at two of them afterwards. One of them was quite exciting because the house we visited was one of the lion dance troupe members. The last train back to Takaoka was around 9:30. The lion dance was going on until just before that time, and it seemed to be going on for a long time. While I was watching one of the lion dances, I heard the words of a girl. “Everyone comes to see Sakuramachi, don’t they?” I think it’s already said that the lion dance in your town is the best thing you can do. I remember feeling very jealous on the train home.
