Date; Every year on May 5

Location; Hata Chokouji-temple 畑朝光寺、 609 Hata 畑, Kato City, Hyogo Prefecture

Access; The nearest stations are Takino or Yashiro. It is about 12 kilometers from there.
There is a tourist information center at Yashiro Station, and bike-sharing services are available at both Yashiro 社 and Takino 滝野 stations (Next to Yashiro Station), which anyone can use.

It takes about 40 minutes (one train per hour) from Kakogawa to Yashiro or Takino Station via the Kakogawa Line. It takes about 1 hour to get to Kakogawa from Osaka.

*visited on May 5, 2026

Prologue

Kato City in Hyogo Prefecture isn’t exactly a well-known town. When people think of Hyogo, they usually think of the port city of Kobe in the east, or Himeji in the west, home to the World Heritage Site Himeji Castle. Kato City is an inland town located roughly halfway between the two. In a rather remote part of that town stands a temple designated as a National Treasure, where a “Demon Oni Dance” is said to gather many people. What’s more, they still use “Oni” masks that were crafted over 400 years ago. I wondered exactly what kind of dance it was. I felt I had to go and see for myself, so I set out on a trip.

Let’s watch the “Oni” dance

Schedule

The monks will enter at 1:00 p.m., and the Oni dance will begin at 1:30 p.m.

Stage

According to tradition, Chōkō-ji Temple was relocated to this site in the 12th century. The main hall, which records indicate was built in the early 15th century, is designated a National Treasure, and the bell tower is an Important Cultural Property.

A large crowd has been eagerly waiting for over an hour, as if every moment counts. Most of them appeared to be locals.
A stage has been set up in front of the main hall, and the audience is waiting, surrounding it on all sides. The poster of the “Oni” on the bulletin board also gets crowd exited.

It’s finally time to begin

The dull, distinctive sound of a temple gong rings out. The first character to appear is “Okina.” While ‘Okina’ literally means “old man,” here he serves as a sort of harbinger of things to come. He comes out twice, holding a torch.

And then, finally, the “Oni” appear. At first, they come one by one. First, a red Oni holding a torch.

Next up is the blue Oni wielding an axe. All the Oni stomp their feet powerfully on the ground as they approach.

Finally, Oni wielding a long sword appears. All of the masks look quite old. That’s because they are still using the original masks, which were made around the 14th century. Although they would ideally like to create replicas, those involved say it would be far too costly.

One’s movements are simple. They just walk, jump, and leap while changing direction. They simply stomp the ground powerfully, thud, thud. This originally had the meaning of driving away evil spirits from the land by stamping one’s feet firmly on the ground.

Unfortunately, although there are supposed to be four characters, only three appear this time. That said, each one exudes the distinctive aura of a traditional mask.

Next, the three of them appear together and cast curses on the rice cake displayed in the center. This lasts about 40 minutes and ends around 2:10 p.m.
Afterward, the rice cake is cut into small pieces and distributed to anyone who wants some.

Impression

As for sound, there is nothing but the monotonous clang of a gong. The movements are equally simple: walking, stomping, and leaping. Yet despite this simplicity, the space has a mysterious quality that seems to be imbued with a divine presence. Perhaps this is due in part to the power of the ancient masks, or perhaps it stems from the weight of a tradition that has been passed down for hundreds of years. How one evaluates this experience can only be left to the impressions of those who have actually been there.

Incidentally, among the spectators surrounding the area, none of those seated on the steps of the main hall had set up tripods. Perhaps there is some unspoken rule.

Heading to Hata Chōkōji Temple

How can tourists visit the temple?

The only public transportation option for getting to the nearest station is the Kakogawa Line. However, the Kakogawa Line is a single-track local line with only one train per hour. Therefore, to make it on time, you need to leave Osaka shortly after 8:00 a.m. and transfer from the Kobe Line to the Kakogawa Line at Kakogawa Station. It’s quite inconvenient. The main event is scheduled to start just after 1:00 p.m., but just in case something comes up, you can safely assume that the 9:00 p.m. Osaka time is the latest you’ll need to be there. Additionally, even though it’s more than 10 kilometers from the station, there’s no public transportation. Tourists would have to go by bike or on foot, but since walking isn’t a realistic option, a bike is the only choice. Fortunately, however, there are bike-sharing services available at Takino Station and Yashiro Station. The bikes can be rented cheaply with a simple registration process. Yashiro Station also has a tourist information center, so while it’s a bit farther from the temple, it’s convenient for tourists who aren’t familiar with the area.

So, I actually went there

This time, I brought my folding bike. I set off from Takino Station around 10:30 a.m. For a while, I rode along busy city streets, but…

Soon the road turns into a peaceful country lane, and once you see the banners, the temple is just around the corner. The path is mostly flat, so it’s not tough going.

There are convenience stores dotted along the road for about 5 kilometers, and there’s one near the temple as well, so you can pick up just about anything there. Even taking it easy, I arrived just after 11:30. It took a little over an hour.

Golden Week (early-May holiday season in Japan)

The cherry blossom season is over, the weather is getting warmer, and the young leaves are shining from the end of April to the beginning of May, which is a great time to visit Japan because of the warm weather and low humidity. In Japan, it is called “Golden Week” because of the consecutive holidays from the end of April to the beginning of May. Naturally, you can see various events all over the country at this time of year. Masked characters are also waiting for people to arrive in various places. Through these, you can come in contact with the valuable traditional culture of Japan that you cannot usually see. At the same time, it is an opportunity to experience the mysterious world of the masked characters.

Tokyo area

Ome-Taisai (grand festival)

Tokumaru Shishimai (lion dance)

Tamashiki shrine Kagura

Haruna shrine Daidai-Kagura

Around Kyoto

Senbon-emma do dai-nenbutsu kyougen

Mibu-kyogen

Manbu-oneri

Demon-chasing ceremony at Hata chokoji-temple

this site https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/05/11/report-simple-powerful-oni-danceat-hata-choukoji-temple/

Tohoku area

Fujiwara festival

Hyakusika daigunbu (one hundred dear dance)

Hokuriku area

Oh-no-mai

Chugoku area

Iwami kagura

Izumo kagura

Kyushu area

Amano iwato shrine spring festival

At the end

This is the time when you can see other events of various sizes. We will be introducing them on this website, so if you find something you are interested in, we recommend you to see it there. After all, the live performance is the best memory.

Date: 5th May, every year
Location: 北野 shrine Tokumaru 徳丸 6-34-3, Itabashi 板橋 ward, Tokyo
Access: ① Get off at Narimasu Station on the Tobu Tojo Line, take the Kokusai Kogyo Bus bound for Akabane Station West Exit from the ‘Narimasu Station North Exit’ stop (approx. 10 mins), get off at ‘Koubai Elementary School’, then walk for approx. 5 mins
② Approx. 15 mins’ walk from Tobu Nerima Station on the Tobu Tojo Line
③ Approx. 15 mins’ walk from Takashimadaira Station on the Toei Mita Line

It takes about 10-20 minutes from Ikebukuro, the center of this area, to Nerima.

This article is based on a 2017 visit.

Let’s go !

Even in the 23 wards of Tokyo, the buses are not frequent here, because the area is located on the periphery of the city. This is especially true during the daytime. For example, there were times when you had to take the 2:00 p.m. bus even though the event would start at 2:00 p.m. That said, there’s no rush; it doesn’t start immediately at 2:00. The rituals will be performed first.

Few buses, but the sun is nice. The beginning of May is one of the best weather periods of the year. Spring is over and summer is beginning, so temperatures are starting to get a little warmer, but not too much, and it is very comfortable. This time of year is commonly known as “Golden Week” in Japan. This is because it is a period of consecutive vacations, and unusually long vacations in Japan (though they last from a week to 10 days at the most) are possible.

Koinobori and Children’s Day

In the lion dance grounds, Koinobori, carp streamers held high flutter in the wind.
This is a digression from the main topic, but let me briefly explain about carp streamers. You may skip it if you like.
In fact, May 5 is Children’s Day or Boys’ Day, a national holiday to wish for the growth of children. The carp is a symbol of growth, based on a Chinese legend. The carp is never hung alone, but usually several of them. They express the father, the mother, and the children. In the city, there is no place to hang a large carp streamer, and many people put up small ones on windows, but in the countryside, there are still many magnificent ones. Parents also decorate their houses with dolls that resemble warriors. If you go to department stores, you will find many such dolls on sale during this season. Inside the house, parents display a heroic doll representing a warlord.
By the way, there is also a holiday for girls, which is March 3.
At this time, too, parents decorate their homes with dolls, sometimes as many as a dozen or more in a row for girls, in contrast to only one doll for boys, which costs a lot of money.

Outline of Shishimai

The lion dance is performed by a group of three lions, which is common in eastern Japan. One person is in charge of one lion, and the drum is attached to the front of the lion’s belly and struck by the lion himself.
The three lions are an adult lion (called Oh-jishi), a young lion (Naka-jishi), and a female lion (Me-jishi), respectively. The difference can be judged by the shape of the horns. In addition, there are Hanagasa (headgear with flower decorations), several flutes, and others.

Around 2:30 p.m., the lion dance finally begins. There are a total of seven performances that have been handed down. The first dance is performed in front of the house of the chief priest next to the shrine. In the past, the dance used to go around the town, but the current trend has simplified it.
There are three main dances. They are ” Sasagakari,” “Hana-Meguri,” and “Makugakari. Kakeri” means to be involved with something, and “sasagakari” means to be involved with bamboo grass. Hanagasa stands in each of the four directions. This serves as a kind of boundary.
In this case, the bamboos represent all the diseases and calamities of the world, and Shishi swallowing them is expected to have the effect of dispelling the calamities. Shishi (lions) keep their posture low and exert themselves to drive away all the calamities.

Hana-meguri ~Garden of strife

“Hana-Meguri” is a performance called “Female Lion Hiding,” which is a common part of lion dances in eastern Japan. In this performance, the three lions are initially friendly, but as soon as the female lioness disappears, a mood of disquiet envelops them. Here in Tokumaru, it’ s no exception. The three animals are in a state of friendly head-to-head contact. Eventually, only the female lioness disappears into the flower garden (hanagasa, or flower hats, are gathered together to form a flower garden).
What’s happening?” Two lionesses ask each other, “What happened? The two males split up and go looking for it. Then young male finds the female first, and although he could have just reported right then and there that she was there, he doesn’t. He tries to monopolize the female.
The older male lion comes later. Naturally, he’s not amused. A fierce battle ensues. This is repeated mutually. By the way, why did people in the past create such performances, and why did they continue to do so endlessly?

Maku-gakari ~beyond this world

The last performance is called “Maku-gakari”. As far as I can see, this is the most important performance in this lion dance.
First, a curtain is placed in the center. In front of this curtain is a world filled with suffering. This is the world we are in now, or in Buddhist terms, this is the present world and the other side is the Pure Land. And they are interested in the world beyond. They timidly approach the curtain to see what appears to be going on.

The first to break through the wall is the lioness. Yes, the female always overcomes constraints with ease. At the time this was created, the restrictions on women were even stricter than today. Despite this, they may have seen that this is essentially what people are like. They seem to be sending a message that transcends time. “In fact, it is women who are the most free and courageous.”
It is the young male who will be the next to overcome. Youth gives us more power than anything else.
The oldest male lion is the last one left. The lions who went before them call out. “There is a wonderful world out there,” they say. “Come quickly.”
He is sure they know this. But he can’t cross over, can’t venture out. That’s what it means to grow older. The things one carries become heavier and heavier. So he must be thinking, “If I go on an adventure, I might ruin everything.”

This “Ohjishi” is performed by the most seasoned veteran. The performers must have a certain amount of experience in order to express their anguish and conflict. So, when they overcome the difficulties, they are moved deeply.
”I can still do it. It is still too early to grow old. Only by continuing to boldly take on challenges will life shine brightly.” It seems that this Ohjishi are conveying to us the voice of those who lived long ago.

When this is over, it will be after 4:00 pm. It’s the end of all the performances. The early summer sun was already beginning to set.

The Official Website of Itabashi Ward https://itabashi-kanko.jp/event/detail?id=427

Date: 1~5th, May, every year
Location: Uemachi 1-7-26, Hirano district, Osaka city, Osaka prefecture
Access: Take the Midosuji subway line from Shin-Osaka or the JR Loop Line from Osaka to Tennoji. From there, take the subway Tanimachi Line or the JR Yamato Line to Hirano. It takes about 5 to 8 minutes to walk from each station.

Introduction~ In Japan, if ogres dance, so will Buddha

　In Japan, when ogres dance, Buddhas also dance. Although fewer in number than the ogres, there are also events in which Buddha appears.
The most representative of these is the “25 Bodhisattva Parade”. From the middle of the Heian period (794-1185), the belief in the Pure Land began to flourish. It was believed that the period of 10,000 years after the death of the Buddha was the “the Latter Days of the Law” and that the Buddha’s way of life would be disturbed. As a result, people began to yearn for the afterlife. The Pure Land teachings taught that if people recited the Nembutsu diligently, they could go to paradise. This is the Pure Land faith. And just before death, the “25 bodhisattvas” come to greet us with the Buddha. The “25 Bodhisattvas Parade” is an attempt to recreate that scene.

Interesting Japanese paintings reappear

By the way, this site has previously introduced a strange painting called “Choju Giga” (Caricatures of Birds and Animals), and And there are many other wondrous paintings that seem to be the genealogical descendants of this. Now, in such a world of wonder, we may be able to see something like the following scenes. So, let’s go and see the world of Buddha with the characters in those scenes (the sparrows in the wondrous paintings).

Source: “Suzume-no Kotota (sparrow Kotota’s story) 雀の小藤太” (16C) cf: https://www.suntory.co.jp/sma/collection/data/detail?id=635

Dai-nenbutsuji-temple 大念仏寺

　The end of April and the first half of May in Japan is known as “Golden Week” because of the concentration of holidays, and people move around a lot. Seasonally, it is the transition from spring to summer, with good weather and the mildest climate. After this time, the rainy season arrives a month later. After mid-July, the summer season begins. Therefore, there are many events and activities. But it’s not all good. Unfortunately, the cost of transportation and accommodation goes up.
The procession of the Dainenbutsuji Temple will be held during this period. The temple was founded about 900 years ago, but it is said that the hall was built in its current location about 400 years ago. However, the procession itself is said to have been held about 700 years ago.

Because of its long history, the precincts are large. A vermilion-lacquered corridor circled around the main hall. This is where the Bodhisattvas go around. Inside, food stalls lined the streets, adding color to the festivities.

How crowded is this event?

Paradise inside the main hall

Kotota went to the door of the main hall as the former guest had told him earlier, and a number of people were peeking in. Inside, devotees are sitting and watching the ceremony. In the space where very beautiful and graceful music is echoing, he can see all the Bodhisattvas from earlier.

Here emerged a scene of the Buddhist paradise that the people long ago had imagined.

In this way, Kotota went home satisfied. Happily ever after.

※Reference

Dai-nenbutsuji-temple https://www.dainenbutsuji.com/oneri/

You can travel from Osaka to Kyoto and Nara within one hour by train. https://matcha-jp.com/en/1918

Paintings source:

　Today, we will go to Shinmiato. Shinminato was a city’s name. It merged with other towns and became Imizu City. So it will be more easily understood when you say Shinminato rather than when you say Imizu even now. For those who saw Rokudoji’s Lion Dance (cf. part 1) and those who didn’t, although you can see the event of this special day, it is wasteful since you came all the way to Toyama on this day. It is said that you can see the lion dance anywhere in Shinminato all day long if you just go there. And you need not spend all day to see the Lion Dance. You can either go sightseeing in another place or can sleep at a hotel. But, all the more, I recommend you should spend all day watching this lion dance.

　In my case, I went first to “Kanayamachi” and “Yamacho-suji” in Takaoka city before going to Shinminato because I stayed in Takaoka. And I was too tired to see the lion dance because I had spent all day watching one in Rokudoji. I wanted to stay in bed. I was very tired. But I got out of bed just because it was my personal mission to tell people about the interesting aspects of masked traditional performing arts and I was born to be poor.
“Kanayamachi” is the street that has elegant houses with delicate latticework characteristic of Japanese architecture that line the gently curving road. I love this town. It gives a floating impression which transports me to a different world just by being there. Both “Kanayamachi” and “Yamacho-suji” are “Important Preservecd Districts of Historic Buildings” (there are more than 200 of these districts) . In short, it is an old street that has been left as is. It doesn’t take a lot of time to see and walk around. Kanayamachi’s street is only 450 meters long. Yamacho-suji is only 600 meters long.
　I don’t know whether you wanted to walk around Takaoka or not, because you are going to Shinminato. However, where is Shinminato? This question, actually, was mine. I didn’t have knowledge of this town or the event. I was too late to get reliable information about the shrine. I had to depend on unreliable information on Internet that said “If you go to Shinminato on that day, you can get information everywhere”. As a result, I could get reliable information.
　Where is Shinminto? You will be OK if you get off at the station called “Shinminato” on the Manyo Line. It is safe to assume that everything to the west is Shinminato. To be specific, it’s Nishi Shinminato.

　It was still the morning of a weekday. There weren’t many people but they were very enthusiastic. And then, I saw another group on a small truck pass by. I found two groups. Besides these two groups, I found the third group while I followed the first group. The words I happened to see that you can find the lion dance easily if you go to Shinminato on the day were not false. I was a little worried because I heard the rumor that recently, some groups changed the day to Saturday or Sunday near the special day. But this was worry for nothing.

　Even though it was a weekday and there were few people, they were very active. Even though people have their daily jobs and children were in school, the mood was still very festive. I suppose that they had a spirit that we preserved this tradition and it is natural that the people who live in this town will support it. This feeling is natural, coming from the people themselves. Besides, I guess they don’t only want to preserve tradition, they just do it because it is very enjoyable. Both participants and citizens in the audience love this performing art.

The style is almost the same as Rokudoji (cf. Part 1). The composition of the group of the lion dance is pretty much the same. A lion, some Tengu, some Kiriko and musicians. And they wander around doing the lion dance in their area the whole day.

　Their theater is on the streets. They have no special facility, no special area with a shrine. The town where they usually live is the stage.

So, when they arrived at a nursery school, the children were already sitting down in front of their school. In this region, people think that watching this performance is educational and fun.

　The Tengu carried a special torch. The performance time became longer, too. Even though it was in front of children, they didn’t cut corners. You can feel the spirit of the lion dance group. There are, of course, other people. But the participants perform solely for the children. When the group of the lion dance comes, the teachers have children watch it in a natural, relaxed way.

　Next. I found the fourth group, “Shoto” on this day. Each area has a group of lion dancers in this district. Each group has done almost the same performance. If so, you say, its enough to watch only one group. No. Although I said “almost the same”, it doesn’t mean exactly the same. The design of the long covering each lion is different and the chants are different, too. Furthermore, the number of each group and territory are different.
　All of their performances in the morning finished at 1:30pm. They took a lunch break and the town got quiet again for a while.

　Shiminato is an old town. It is not so much a historical town as it is a place where time seems to have stopped about 50 years ago. The town has been the setting for several movies, and recently a movie featuring the Hikiyama festival, with the festival floats held in September, was released. Perherps it is the unique atmosphere of this old town, which makes people feel nostalgic that has captured the hearts of filmmakers.

　The afternoon sunshine, the endlessly flowing river and the calm sea will surely relax your tired mind. And then we notice that in the towns that pursue only convenience, there are no performing arts remaining.

　Its just after 1:30 pm. Its almost time to resume. I turn to the city as if the tone of the music is inviting me again. I’ve been listening to it all morning, and I can hear the sound in my ears like an auditory hallucination all the time. There it is. It is “Higashi Shinmachi” I saw earlier.

　

　In the afternoon, the number of people seems to have increased a bit. I was led to the plaza in front of the housing complex as I watched. Quite a few people had already gathered there. Other groups had gathered there as well. There, they are going to demonstrate their skill one after the other.

　

　It was the “Nago cho” that appeared. Two Tengu came out there with torches. The flickering fire of the torch bewitches not only Shishi but also the audience.

　In this way, it seems to be a momentary event, but the truth is that a lot of time has passed there, both physically and in terms of mood. The lion shakes his huge body, sometimes violently sometimes gently, as if in response to the Tengu’s torch. If the lion gives the lion-headed man a ride on its shoulders and threatens the Tengu, the Tengu also carries another Tengu on its shoulders and counters. When the lion comes running in, the Tengu uses his torch as if cleaning the ground. This is the technique that they can’t do or else both are in harmony.

　After I enjoyed their performance enough, I got to see “lion slayer” for the first time. The performance of “lion slayer” is so unique one. I suppose that the origin of this performance came from “Kinzo-Shishi” in Gifu prefecture, next to Toyama. “Kinzo-Shishi” is a performance where a man called “Kinzo” fought Shishi that destroyed a farm. In this performance, Shishi appears as a bad being. However, the lion (Shishi) is a sacred animal originally. So people could be confused when they see this performance. I’m sure they probably had to say “What does this mean?” Now, they seem to have settled on the fact that they are not killing the lion itself, but getting rid of the malignant nature of the lion.
　It’s a quiet beginning. The tengu and the lion move freely in time with the music. When one swings to the left, the other is in tune with the music. This may be called a play in its entirety, but it could also be called a ballet or a musical in the sense that it is set to music.

The lion and the tengu are not evenly matched. If anything, the lion is stronger. The tengu is always frightened of the lion. If possible, the Tengu would like to avoid a head-to-head battle with the lion. This is expressed in the performance by the Tengu’s trembling legs. But here’s the crucial moment. Kiriko is captured by the lion.

The Tengu must save Kiriko from being captured by the lion. However, fighting the lion head-on was not a good idea. What should they do? Make him drink. The lion was so absorbed in drinking that he would ignore Kiriko. One of the highlights of the battle is when the lion raises a cask of liquor in his mouth in one fell swoop. This may have been the inspiration for the famous myth of the Orochi’s (being like dragon) extermination, as the same method is also used to slay the Orochi. Either way, the lion gets drunk and docile. This ploy works, and the Tengu succeeds in killing the lion, but as the lion gets drunk and gradually moves less and less, the tone of the music is exquisitely slowed down. The Tengu still managed to make sure that the lion was asleep. The staging in this area is so brilliant that it is hard to believe this is an amateur play, making everyone in the audience gasp. The Tengu would then “kill” the lion.

　The lion is reborn. The symbol of this is the scene in which the lion stands up with Kiriko on his back. The music that had been suppressed until then explodes. The scene is very solemn. The local lady smiled and asked to me “How was it? Was it interesting?”. I looked at her and she looked a little proud.

　I found a number of lion dance troupes after that. They were everywhere, in the back alleys and along the river. It would not be an exaggeration to say that the whole of Shinminato is steeped in the sounds of the lion dance.

　

　After five o’clock in the evening, the town is quiet again. After this, the “Iwaibana”, so to speak, which is the most important part of the festival, will be held.
As I walked through the quiet town, I happened to see a lion’s head on in front of the main hall of a large temple. An elderly person stands talking in the evening shadows. The pursuit of economic efficiency is always the focus of our attention, but this is the kind of quiet and modest life that has always been carried out in this country. If you have the opportunity to visit, I’m sure the town will tell you all about this and give you a glimpse of its little treasures.

　

　Now, what is a “Iwaibana”? Quite simply, it’s a celebratory dance. When a family had a new house, marriage, or birth of a child, they would pay a lion dance troupe for the celebratory flowers. In response to this, the lion dance troupe would perform in front of the house. Of course, anyone could watch the performance. When the time came, people gathered to watch the performance. At that time, we happened to look for it on the Internet, but in fact, this is very rare case.

　”Iwaibana” is basically the same as the one performed. It’s a lion slayer. However, the most distinctive feature of the performance is that in the middle of the performance, “Koj-jo 口上” (it means a “speech” congratulating the people of the house) is added. The words are fixed, and they say something like, “You have piled up a mountain of money for me”. However, because of the relationship with the house, various ad-libs are added. So it takes nearly an hour. During this time, the traffic is sometimes stopped on one side of the road, but nobody complains about it. Passers-by are eager to watch from even the other side of the road. This is the only day the lion dance is allowed to go unchallenged.

　

The sort of evening session of “Iwaibana” can continue until quite late, but you have to know where it takes place. If you are not a local, you can’t find it, but by that time, you can’t see it well because the crowds of people are like a mountain. So I had one idea. The idea was to follow people as they walked along, so that we could see the performance. Of course, it was a kind of a gamble, but I think it was a very effective strategy.

As a result, I was able to take a closer look at two of them afterwards. One of them was quite exciting because the house we visited was one of the lion dance troupe members.
The last train back to Takaoka was around 9:30. The lion dance was going on until just before that time, and it seemed to be going on for a long time.
While I was watching one of the lion dances, I heard the words of a girl. “Everyone comes to see Sakuramachi, don’t they?”
I think it’s already said that the lion dance in your town is the best thing you can do.
I remember feeling very jealous on the train home.

　

Date:　　14th May, every year
Location: Rokudoji district, Imizu city, Toyama prefecture
Access: Rokudoji station (Manyo line). You take “Ai-no-kaze-Toyama line from Toyama and change at Takaoka to Manyo line. To Toyama from Tokyo, you take Shinkansen (JR line) or night express bus.

*This article is written based on writer’s experience in 2018.

　Hello, everybody.

　 Do you have a time when you want to go to Japan, but just going to major cities like Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, isn’t enough? Those of you who doubt there must be something more than just Ninja, temple, Fujiyama, Kawaii and high technology in Japan–you are lucky to reach this site. There are many good regions where most people don’t know. For example, what do you think of Toyama prefecture? You may say “Toyama? Where is it? I have never heard such a name”. That’s what’s fun about it. You want to see more than Tokyo, don’t you? You want to know deeper attractive Japan, don’t you?

　3 reasons why you should go to Toyama.

One. Toyama has great nature. “Kurobe-kyokoku (gorge) is deep V shaped gorge with a height difference between the river and mountain ranging from 1,500 to 2,000 meters. This area has many hot springs, Unatsuki or Tsurigane which are famous for their natural open-air baths at the river bank of the Kurobe river. And “Yuki-no-otani” is a snow wall walk. It’s ten meters long. The wall reaches a height of 20 meters in some spots!
cf.→https://www.alpen-route.com/en/yuki-no-otani-snow-wall-walk-2016apr-16th-jun-22nd%E3%80%80%EF%BD%9E%E9%9B%AA%E3%81%AE%E5%A4%A7%E8%B0%B7%E3%82%A6%E3%82%A9%E3%83%BC%E3%82%AF2016%EF%BD%9E Yuki-no -otani

Two. There are many traditional cultures. The old castle “Toyama castle”, the big buddha in Takaoka. “Kanaya” is a town as if time had stopped. “Gokayama”, the historic village is designated as a World Cultural Heritage Sites.

*cf. Toyama castle, Takaoka buddha and Gokayama village from https://travel.rakuten.co.jp/mytrip/ranking/spot-toyama/
Kanaya town from https://toyama-bunkaisan.jp/search/1747/

　Every spot is accessible within one or two hours by train from Toyama station. It’s very convenient.

Three. There are many great “Shishimai (Lion dance). Yes, I am definite about that. Actually, it is said Toyama has more than 1,000 groups of Shishimai. Each region has its own style. They have been performed for more than 300 years. Among these, I recommend the lion dance in “Rokudoji” and “Shinminato” areas. While flames are rising up, the endless battle of “Shishi” and “Tengu” unfolds. You can watch performances transcending simple traditional performing arts.

　First, you are at the Takaoka station of “Manyo-line”. Takaoka is within half an hour from Toyama. “Manyo-line” is a vehicle between a train and bus. In short, it is a streetcar. You have to get a number ticket when you get on. This streetcar starts slowly and drowsily as if you were on a roller coaster. When I got on, there were many students because it was a weekday. Although most traditional performing arts are held on Saturday or Sunday near the original day, in this area, they stubbornly observe the day prescribed. The streetcar drives along the environs of the old town to Shinminato.

*from https://www.tripadvisor.jp/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g311426-d2401483-i228144336-Manyosen-Takaoka_Toyama_Prefecture_Hokuriku_Chubu.html

　After about thirty minutes, you reach a station. You may see a building with a nice rustic in front of the station. That’s Rokudoji. But you will murmur “Well, Where is the Lion dance group? I don’t know.”
　When I visited the area, I arrived at about nine am. The only information I had was to be at the shrine at six. I walked along the river. Then, I heard some sounds of flutes and drums. I walked following the sound, and had a look in the alley. I found it. There was a group of the Lion dance right here.

　Shishi and Tengu were dancing. There were five people inside both Shishi and Tengu, children (called Kiriko)dressed up with flower hats, followed by a little vehicle with several people playing traditional flutes and Japanese drum (Taiko) riding. And in addition there were more than ten people who are the leader and supporters. All people other than Tengu and Kiriko wear the same clothes.

　Shishi consists of five people. The front man handles the head of Shishi, and others are covered by a long cloth tinged with a unique pattern. This style is called “centipede Lion”.

　They walk along the street, sometimes stop to play a short dance (within five to ten minutes). Shishi try to catch Kiriko, and Tengu face Shishi to try to protect them. This is the basic form. The leader decides on the spot what they do. The leader tells the name of the program, and they instantly dance it. Sometimes, a man who happen to pass by join them. I suspect he, of course, may be a member but he couldn’t participate this day for some reason. And sometimes the musicians play as Kiriko.

　People who live along the street go out from their house. Children watch them with their shining eyes. This festival is held every year, but they can’t help coming out to the street when they hear the sound of the Lion dance. The group walk as they dance to meet everyone’s expectation all over the town the whole day. That day was a weekday, as expected the number of viewer was not many especially in the morning. Just because the viewers weren’t many, they never cut corners. Come to think of it, despite being weekday, people walk around playing Shishi dance don’t go to work, and children are absent from school, too. But people in this town must consider it is only natural. And they are waiting for Shishi to come. In Japan, towns like this still remain.

　The leader cries the name of the program, every member gets prepared immediately like an army. The leader cries “Tololo!”, “Baigaeshi!”. We, as third party, don’t know any meaning of these words, but as we watch them again and again, we could imagine what they play. Thus their chant “Iyasaa, iyasaka!” echoes all over the town. This “Iyasaa” chant is short for “Iyoiyo sakaeru”, means “thrive more and more”. This chant is rare.

　People inside Shishi continue to swing its long curtain. The curtain doesn’t swing easily by a little shake. People have to make the curtain swing by power of the whole bodies. It’s a good amount of hard work. So people change their role repeatedly. People who come out from the curtain are covered in sweat and their faces are burning, especially the man who handles the head. Even in May, it’s hot.

　They sometimes imitate pounding rice cake (Japanese traditional ceremony at New Year) with Hyottoko joying in. They don’t pound rice cake actually, Kiriko (children dressed up) throw confetti at last to celebrate. They go around giving fortune to the town.

　They walk around the town while doing short performances, and sometimes do long versions of the program at facilities, like at a hospital or a kindergarten.
　When the group arrived this hospital facility at about 2 pm, many people had already waited impatiently for them. I only followed after the group of Shishi, but local people might know the time, it arrives for every year. Not only the people in this facility, but many neighbors have gathered. Ｗhether the people are concerned or not, or whether they have nothing to do…(no)…they all seem to gather despite of themselves every year event.

　We can see the perfect form of this Shishi dance at last here, although, the basic format doesn’t change. Shishi goes mad, KIriko dance colorfully and Tengu faces the Shishi. Then, what is different? Let’s go on to the chase, and we can see the last part. Until then, Shishi runs over, Tengu and Kiriko appears, and coaxes it. But that was all just a part of the battle. If there are people who say “So? What ultimately happenes?”, they would finally find out here.

　Before we see the last, we must give you more information. It is the torch. Most Shishimai group use this torch recently. The group that started using, Rokudoji. This performance has been the typical style, Rokudoji being the is origin. So, when Tengu holds the torches, the audience lives up. It takes about more thirty minutes.
　Rokudoji received the first prize at the competition of the Lion dance in Toyama for six years in a row for this performance.Moreover the Shishi dance is characterized by Tengu wearing the long hat called “Eboshi”. Tengu has long hair called “Shaguma” in Imizu city, while Tengu has long hat in Himi city. Rokudoji has both feature.

　Tengu dangles fire in front of Shishi. Shishi is dazzled soon, and calms down.

　Every group in Imizu type has the performance “Killing the lion”, but Rokudoji doesn’t have that performance. This is another feature. Rokudoji received the first prize at the competition of the Lion dance in Toyama where it is said to be the kingdom of the Lion dance, for six years in a row for this performance.

　When the main event finishes, it will be late afternoon. Rokudoji is located between the river and the sea. It’s great to do cool off in the afternoon, or you want to eat something. Unfortunately, this area doesn’t have any convenience stores, cafes or restaurants. If you want to go to a shop, you can get on the Manyo-line and go to the center of the city. In my case, I walked a very long way to find shops because I thought there are some convenience stores nearby. After all, I ended up walking for two stations away from Rokudoji. Lesson 1. “Don’t think there are some shops within five minutes walking distance like Tokyo.”

　In the evening, finally the most popular performance will be held called “Iwai-bana”. This means that the Shishi group goes to and celebrate a house that is new or a family tgat had a happy event like a wedding or a new baby.

　This evening, two ceremonies were held. One was a personal new house and another was the community center. It started about seven pm. When this time approached many cars were lined up along the river. First, in front of a just personal house. People already filed up the area in front of the house. I couldn’t see anything having been late. So, I gave up watch at this place, and moved on to the next place, the community center. In front of the center is a wide square, but many people already surrounded it. Just so you know, this information isn’t uploaded on SNS. I knew that it is held at the community center just because I heard they (members of the group) say so. If you want to know where it held, you should ask them. They will surely answer because they love their Shishi performance.

　As fire lights the torch gets exciting. Fire is great. especially at night. I guess fire would awaken the memory of ancient times. The accompanied music sounds sometimes high, sometimes low, sometimes fast, and sometimes slow along with the dance movement. The whole audience is drawn into the fantasy world.

　 In this place, you can see everything that you have seen till this time. You find that all you saw in daylight mean like fitting peaces into place together like a puzzle. Shishi is not killed, calmed down and becomes obedient. All the world have become happy.

　There is a specific scene in “Iwai-bana”,too. It is called “ko-jo”. Literaly translated, this means ”to state”. What they say is to celebrate the house or people, etc. Every “Kojo” is fixed sounding rhetoric. This is one way to enjoy it.

　Every event will end between 8:30 to 9 pm. It would be suggested to stay in this town or go to stay in Takaoka city. The last train starts at 11 pm but only two trains ran an hour between 10 and 11 pm. Don’t forget to get a number ticket.

　This time, we will go to Kyoto. One of the most popular cities in Japan. The No.1 sightseeing place that most tourists from other countries want to go to. I guess Kyoto is a kind of symbol of old traditional Japan. There are many tourist spots, temples, shrines, castles and old streets. Today we’ll talk about another special sight. This sight introduces traditional folk performing arts with masked characters.
　There are three sketch comedies with masked characters, named “Nenbutsu Kyogen”. “Mibu Kyogen”, “Saga Nebutsu Kyogen” and “Senbon Enma-do Nenbutsu Kyogen”. “Kyogen” is performed in the intermission of Noh performances. In contrast to Noh, they tend to be comedic. It means just a play, too. And “Nenbutsu” is a Buddhist invocation. So, “Nenbutsu Kyogen” is a play in which stories are based on the daily lives of average people to propagate Buddhism. Two of these, “Mibu Kyogen” and “Saga Kyogen” are pantomime, but only “Senbon Enma-do Kyogen” has dialogue.

*Reference

　Mibu Kyogen　壬生狂言
Date: 3rd February, 29th April~5th May, 3 days around 10th October
Location: Mibudera-temple
refer→https://www.discoverkyoto.com/event-calendar/may/mibu-kyogen-mibu-dera/ discover Kyoto

Saga nenbutsu Kyogen　嵯峨念仏狂言
Date: 1st Sunday & 2nd Saturday & Sunday April, The Sunday nearest 26th October
Location: Seiryoji-temple
refer→http://www.greentour-kyoto.net/events/saga-kyogen/ green tour Kyoto

　Senbon Enma-do Kyogen 千本ゑんま堂狂言
Date: 3rd February & 1st~4th May
Location: Senbon Enma-do (another name, Injoji-temple)
refer→https://kansaifinder.com/event/senbon-enma-do-nenbutsu-kyogen/ Kansai Finder

　　First, let to introduce today’s guide

　Now, I’ll call today’s guides. They are the most popular characters in Japanese National artwork treasures.

　　Now, let’s go to the venue

*This article is written based on writer’s experience at 4th, May, in 2018 and a booklet.

“Dojoji-temple”

“Botan-jishi” (Peony Lion)

Intermission

“Kanzaki watashi” (Kanzaki river ferry)

“Sennin-giri” (Saving a Thousand souls)

　　Well, let’s start getting ready to go home

　　*Refer
Kozanji-temple
You can see the scroll “Choju-Jinbutsu-giga” (Unfortunately, it is a replica, though. The original is stored in Tokyo and the Kyoto National museum.) and you can get many copies of these paintings. And, this temple is famous for its beautiful autumn leaves.
Access: It takes about 50 minutes from the center of Kyoto by bus, and 15 minutes on foot from the bus stop.

Date:　　 2nd & 3rd May
Location: Ome city, Tokyo prefecture
Access: It takes over 1 hour from Shinjuku by JR Chuo line

The feature of Japan Festival

　Do you know how many festivals there are in Japan? In one theory, it is said there are three hundred thousands. In Japan, if you ask a Japanese what is your image of festival, most people would answer “Mikoshi” or “Dashi (or Yatai). An exemplary “Mikoshi” festival is “the Sanja festival” at Asakusa or “the Kanda Myojin festival” at Kanda in Tokyo, and an exemplary “Dashi” festival is “the Gion festival” in Kyoto or “the Nebuta festival” in Aomori prefecture.
　*What is “Mikoshi” and “Dashi”? Both a means of transportation for a deity. Dashi is no different from Mikoshi in terms of being a vehicle. Mikoshi is a portable shrine and people carry it on their shoulders. Dashi is a float decorated with various objects for a festival.

Departure

　We can often see masked characters on Dashi in festivals. So, this time, we will go and see the Ome festival in Tokyo with our guides. Oh, where have they gone? Hey, it’s your turn!

*Who are they? If you want to know about them, please confer the article https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/04/26/part-2iidama-shrine-daidai-kagura/

Ome is a town full of retro culture

　Ome city is located in western Tokyo and is the major gateway of excursion into the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National park.

　Ome is usually a calm town. There are still quite a number of vintage houses and many vintage film billboards. But only during the two days of the festival, this town changes.

Welcome to Festival

Along the street

Mask collection

Worship at shrine

How long is the festival?

The festival is still going on…

*Reffer https://www.japanistry.com/event/ome-grand-festival/