Shishi , artificial objects and wild masked characters ~Hourai festival ほうらい祭り
Date; Saturday and Sunday in early October Location; Kinkengu Hizume-cho, Hakusan City, Ishikawa Prefecture Access; Take the Ishikawa Railway train bound for Komatsu from Kanazawa to Nishi-Kanazawa. It’s a 5-minute walk to the Hokuriku Railway’s Shin-Nishi-Kanazawa Station. From there, take the train bound for Tsurugi—the ride takes about 30 minutes. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the station to Kinken-gu Shrine.
From Nishi-Kanazawa Station toward Shin-nishi-Kanazawa
After one stop from Kanazawa Station, when you arrive at Nishi-Kanazawa Station, you’ll see the Hokuriku Railway station a short distance ahead.
As you wait at the small station, a train pulls in. It’s bound for Tsurugi Station—your destination for today.
There was a large festival sign at the station. Other than that, however, it seemed quite quiet.
A small town nestled in the mountains. A quiet town that still retains its old-fashioned streetscape.
It’s still early, so the festival hasn’t started yet, but you can see decorations all over town. Kinken-gu Shrine. Today is the festival at this shrine. The approach is already lined with many stalls and crowded with people.
Around 12:30, the festival finally began. Unfortunately, it was raining, so the decorations were covered with tarps.
Kaga Lion, decorative ornament
The festival has three main attractions: the mikoshi, the decorated floats, and the Kaga lions. It is said that they create something unique every time and have never made the same thing twice in 850 years. The creations are displayed at facilities throughout the city for one year, until the next festival.
You can see lion dances based on the “Lion Slayer” story from northern Gifu Prefecture through Ishikawa Prefecture and on to Toyama Prefecture. However, unlike the narrative-driven performances in Toyama and Gifu, the Kaga Lion Dance here is known for being purely action-oriented.
It is said that the Maeda clan, which once ruled this region, encouraged lion dances to promote martial arts. Perhaps that is why.
Bakumen !
And tagging along with those groups are a mysterious bunch—the main characters of this story.
It’s called “Bakumen.” Dressed in casual attire, they tie a crushed five-gallon drum to a rope and drag it along as they walk. They glare at their surroundings and clear the path.
Various “Baku-men”
Rain or shine, it doesn’t matter. The townspeople gaze at Bakumen with a mixture of fear and respect. There are no specific rules regarding costumes. Sometimes they wear different costumes depending on the year.
Sometimes gentle, sometimes terrifying. Sometimes they intimidate people, and other times they imitate the lion dance. In any case, they’re the stars of the festival. In a sense, they’re the main attraction.
Bakume forever
In this “bakumen,” for example, the lower jaw of the mask is missing. Even so, this mask has been cherished and used over the years.
Even so, what’s scary to a child is still scary. The festival goes on late into the night for two days. If you have some free time during your trip to Kanazawa, be sure to check it out and see for yourself that a festival like this exists.
The Battle of the Masked Swordsmen on Noto Island 能登島曲
Date; The last Saturday in September every year
Location; 9-32-B, Magari-cho, Notojima, Nanao City, Ishikawa Prefecture Access; Take the limited express train from Kanazawa to Wakura Onsen Station (about 1 hour). From there, it’s about a 10-minute ride by local bus or taxi. Local buses run about once every two hours. The trip to Kanazawa from both Tokyo and Osaka takes a little over 2.5 hours by Shinkansen or limited express train.
Noto island
The Noto Bridge, connecting Wakura Onsen in Nanao City to Noto Island
Noto Island, nestled at the entrance to the Noto Peninsula, is a small island with a circumference of about 70 km. Transportation isn’t very convenient. As for public transportation, there are only six local bus routes running per day. Cars are the main mode of transportation. There are convenience stores, but they close around 7:00 p.m. Restaurants and other eateries follow a similar schedule.
However, this place has even more to offer. Each community on this island has its own unique festival. Today, I’d like to introduce one of them: the festival held in the community of Magari 曲.
Oomiya shrine
After gathering at the community center, the group first makes its way to Omiya Shrine. Today is the shrine’s festival.
Then, a skit performed by masked characters begins. The main attraction of this festival is these skits, which are performed at various locations throughout the town. According to the schedule, it was supposed to start at 11:00, but it had already begun a little after 10:30.
This is the highlight of the performance, known as the “Dan-shichi Dance.” The story originates from a peasant who was unjustly killed by a samurai, and his daughters, who avenge his death. It’s interesting that they use weapons like kusarigama, which is rare in this kind of entertainment. By the way, a kusarigama is a weapon with a chain attached to the end of the handle and a sickle at the tip.
These short skits are called “niwaka.” The festival essentially consists of performing these “niwaka” skits at various locations, accompanied by flutes and drums. Around noon, once the dedication ceremony at the shrine is over, the procession makes its way around the town.
At a Certain House, Part 1
After finishing their visit to one house, the group headed to another house in the afternoon. There, in the front yard, they performed a “niwaka” skit. Of course, the festival participants were treated to food and drinks.
At a Certain House, Part 2
The festival group made its way through the neighborhood and arrived at the seaside square at 3:30 p.m. This spot serves as the harbor and is where the largest crowd gathers. That said, this event is also being hosted by a private home.
Apparently, in a showdown with a lion, it’s really tough because while the opponents keep changing, the actor playing the lion never does.
And here, too, the performance concludes with the “Dan-shichi Dance.” When the sisters declare, “We’re here to avenge our father’s death—we’re ready for anything,” Dan-shichi laughs wickedly, saying, “Ha ha ha, how ridiculous. I’ll turn the tables on you.” This is the only one with dialogue.
When children see this, they all imitate Dan-shichi, so even though he’s a villain, he might be something of a hero they look up to here. And so, after a full hour, the festival becomes a cherished memory for the islanders.
In Closing
Actually, after that—with a break in between—they still had three more stops scheduled until around 8:30 p.m. Here on Noto Island, unique festivals are held almost every week in various villages from September through October. It’s a bit of a hassle to get there, but once you go, you’ll find that even though there’s “nothing” there, you’ll leave with something truly special.
Competition Featuring Traditional Performing Arts from Each Town ~Miya festival 三谷祭
Location; Within Mitani-cho, Gamagori City, Aichi Prefecture Wakamiya shrine, Yatsurugi shrine
Date; Weekends in mid-October (see the official website for details → https://38fes.jp/en/
Access; From the Tokyo area, take the Shinkansen to Toyohashi—about two hours. From there, it’s about 15 minutes on the local line (Tokaido Main Line) to Mikawa-Miya. From Osaka, take the Shinkansen or a limited express train to Nagoya—about an hour—and then take the local line for about an hour.
based on 10th (Sunday) October, 2023
A Grand Gathering of Masked Characters
One could call it a small town. Located between Japan’s three major economic hubs—Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya—Gamagori City is known for its fruit and hot springs. The station right next to it is Miya, the focus of this story. That small town has something that can rival even Nagoya. That is this year’s Miya Festival. And many masked characters appear at the festival. The festival has many charms. Let’s take a closer look.
The Big Festival in a Small Town
When you get off at the small station, there’s a road stretching straight ahead. The atmosphere there is already buzzing with festival excitement. This festival is held over two days—a Saturday and Sunday—in mid-October. On Saturday, planning meetings are held starting in the morning, and at noon, the floats from each district set out to visit the shrine. Then, around 7:00 p.m., everyone finishes the procession and heads home. Sunday is no different—the event starts early, at 8:00 a.m. After the procession through the ocean, traditional performances from each district are presented one after another at two shrines. The entire event doesn’t wrap up until after 9:00 p.m.
Magnificent, ornate festival floats—said to be modeled after those of Kyoto—parade through the town. Since this festival is held in honor of both Wakamiya and Yatsurugi Shrines, each district visits the shrines at different times. And during that time, the festival’s biggest highlight—the maritime procession—takes place.
For this maritime procession, the schedule may shift to the second or third weekend, depending on the tides.
At last, the masked characters are entering the shrine
After completing the maritime procession, the group heads next to Wakamiya Shrine. At this point, each district performs the traditional arts they have passed down through the generations.
They will perform twice in front of the shrine and once more inside the grounds. There are six districts in total. Since the next one is coming up, each district will perform for about 10 minutes before moving on to the next.
For example, Nishi Ward stages a reenactment of a feudal lord’s procession, and children, looking nervous as they take the stage, show off the results of their daily practice.
There are six characters in total. A distinctive feature here is that the masks are strangely lifelike, and since they are the type that cover the entire head, they create a peculiar sense of realism. They dance along to the melody of the flute. Dance
Dance of Shitifukujin (seven deities )
The Seven Lucky Gods are Japan’s most famous deities—a group of seven deities who bring happiness to people. They often appear during auspicious occasions such as the New Year. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/04/05/seven-deities-of-good-fortune-parade-celebrating-the-new-year-at-the-center-of-tokyo/ This is a traditional performing art preserved by Kita Ward. And since this is the type that covers its head completely with a strangely realistic mask, viewers might feel as if they can actually hear a normal conversation taking place. “It’s finally our turn. I’m starting to feel a little nervous.” “Me too.”
In the original Seven deities of good fortune, there is a female deity named Benzaiten who presides over the arts, but here she is replaced by a fox. The story revolves around the deities being beguiled by the fox and made to dance under its control.
“Come on, come on, dance properly,”—don’t you find it strangely comical to imagine the Seven Lucky Gods dancing as if a fox were telling them that?
“Give me a break, I can’t dance anymore.” “For some reason, my body just won’t listen to me.”
Renjishi Dance
“Renjishi” originates from a Kabuki play. It is a dance depicting two lions dancing wildly, and the highlight is the scene where they swing their long hair around vigorously. The performing arts of Naka Ward are modeled after this; at first glance, they look like makeup, but they are actually masks.
Of course, just like in the original, there are scenes where they swing their long hair around. Many fans come to see just that.
The festivities wrap up for the time being around 4:00 p.m., and the festival floats make their way from Wakamiya Shrine to Yatsurugi Shrine.
The festival continues late into the night
By around 5:30, Yatsurugi Shrine was packed with spectators. However, since the shrine grounds are spacious, everyone gathered in a circle around the shrine.
Since the temple grounds are so spacious, you can see performances and activities that are different from those during the day.
And so, the town continues to buzz with a festive atmosphere until nearly 9:00 p.m.
Warning: Tengu appear on this mountain. ～The ship festival at Tatsuno 辰野
Date; The third Sunday in October every year Location; 9610 Inafu, Tatsuno Town, Kamiina District, Nagano Prefecture Access; If you’re coming from the Tokyo area, take the Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku to Okaya (about 2.5 hours), then take the Iida Line for just under 20 minutes to Haba. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the station. From the Osaka or Nagoya area, take the Limited Express Shinano to Shiojiri (about 2 hours), then take the Chuo Line to Okaya, transfer to the Iida Line, and get off at Haba. By bus, take the express bus and get off at Ina Bus Terminal, then take the Iida Line from Ina City Station to Haba.
This article is based on 20th October 2024
Why a sailing ship, even though the place is in the mountains?
The Azusa Limited Express, with a transfer to a local line, takes about 3 hours
After arriving at a small station deep in the mountains, there was a festival here called “the Boat Festival.”
After walking for about 15 minutes, a small shrine finally comes into view. Then, visitors must climb a long, long flight of stairs to reach the top. But just before that, there’s a sign that catches one’s eye…
“This is mountain where ” Tengu” lives !?” A mysterious message… Yet the people who have gathered here seem to be having a good time. It’s a festival full of mysteries.
The “boat” arrives, and the festival begins
Around 1:30 in the afternoon, the “boat” finally arrives at the square. The people carrying it spin it round and round, and
While the crowd was making a commotion over the ship’s arrival, a lion—and even a tengu—suddenly appeared from inside the ship. This is No.1 Tengu.
Tengu make strange “Ho-ho” sounds, wrestle with the lion, and roll around among the crowd. That’s right—this tengu doesn’t walk; instead, it runs on all fours and rolls around.
The Mountain Where Tengu Run Amok
Just as one wonders, “Did the tengu disappear somewhere?”, it suddenly appears from the top of the mountain. It’s the second tengu making its entrance.
“Oh, I found something.” If children aren’t careful, they’ll get caught by a tengu. Will the kids be thrilled? No. Come to think of it, they say that tengu run around barefoot without ever getting hurt. Is this another feat of their supernatural powers?
The Last Tengu Flys Out
And finally, the last tengu leaped out of the “boat.” They say the tengu become more and more aggressive as they emerge, in the order they appear.
One moment the tengu was at the temple, and the next he was dashing around the mountaintop,
or tumbling down the mountainside. It’s a muddy struggle.
Ending
Once the commotion caused by the tengu subsides, people begin to gather around the lion. Then, the lion takes a big bite out of its head…
This is a common sight at lion dance performances; it is a custom based on the legend that having the lion bite your head brings good health and happiness.
It’s a strange festival to have a boat appear in the mountains, but there’s a legend behind it. The lions were outsiders who demanded to be allowed to live in this land. The tengu were the ones who dealt with them. It is said that an agreement was reached during the third round of negotiations, and the lions came to dwell in this land. Hearing this, many people are reminded of the Izumo myth. In that myth, a messenger from Amaterasu visits Okuninushi to demand that he cede his land; after three rounds of negotiations, Okuninushi finally agrees, and Amaterasu gains possession of the land. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/reference/japan-mythorogy/okuninushi-hnded-over-his-own-country-to-amaterasukuni-yuzuri-%e5%9b%bd%e8%ad%b2%e3%82%8a/ Simply put, it’s a memory of invasion by a powerful force. Perhaps something similar happened in this land in the past. I don’t know any specific details. Memories of certain things linger on like this in people’s minds forever.
Just past 3:00 p.m., the chaos and commotion subsided, and the mountain regained its usual tranquility. At the foot of the shrine, a pair of deities, praying for the people’s peace and well-being, watched us leave.
A Supporting Role in a Slightly Odd, Mysterious Festival That Continues in a Major City?—The Shōjō of Kasadera 笠寺の猩々
Date; The second Saturday and Sunday of October every year Location; 12 Tenma, Kasadera-cho, Minami Ward, Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture Access; Get off at “Honkasadera” Station on the Meitetsu Nagoya Main Line; 11-minute walk Get off at “Kasadera” Station on the JR Tokaido Line; 15-minute walk All of these stations are about 20 minutes from Nagoya Station. Nagoya Station is accessible via the Shinkansen, which takes about an hour and a half from Tokyo and about an hour from Osaka.
That creature appears in the big city of Nagoya
Around Nagoya Station
Nagoya Castle
Nagoya is the capital of Aichi Prefecture and a major city with a population of approximately 2.3 million, making it the fourth-largest city in Japan after Tokyo, Yokohama, and Osaka. It is the core city of the Chubu region, Japan’s third-largest metropolitan area after the Tokyo metropolitan area and the Kansai region centered on Osaka. Aichi Prefecture is also home to Toyota. Typically, traditional performing arts tend not to be preserved very well in urban areas with high population turnover. However, here in the Nagoya area, it is said that mysterious creatures parade through the streets during festivals. What’s more, the records date back about 250 years. So, I headed straight to a place called Kasadera, where I heard there was a festival.
Find the Shōjō
The name “Kasadera” comes from a temple and is located along the Old Tōkaidō (a historic highway that was once the busiest in the region). It is also close to Nagoya and features venues such as a concert hall, so the station sees a high volume of passengers during events. This time, it’s not a temple, but a festival at a shrine called Nanasho Shrine. When I headed in that direction from the station…
There it was. A mysterious creature, the Shōjō.
Here stands Shōjō, a mysterious giant who really catches the eye. A shōjō is a type of supernatural creature originating in China; it is said to be covered in red fur, speak human language, and have a particular fondness for alcohol. It is said to bring happiness to people and has been featured in Noh plays.
Records indicate that the Shōjō first appeared at festivals in this area around the 18th century, but it is unclear why they began to make appearances. It is said that the current Shōjō are ones made by artisans during the Meiji era (1861~1912), which are still in use today after undergoing repairs.Still, it’s a strange and somehow humorous creature.
Some are sleeping, while others are spending time with their children. Still others have been invited to a party. When this moves, it becomes even funnier.
The Walking Shōjō
The body is large. Plus, its legs are short relative to its body.
Thank you for your hard work, security guard.
As you’ve probably noticed, the giant body is made of woven bamboo and is worn like a costume. The face is right around the belly area. So when a child wears it, it looks small, but when an adult puts it on, they become a giant.
Shōjō are very popular with children. During breaks and other times, children put on small Shōjō to take memorable photos.
Happy times fly by
“Huh? Did I get lost?” “Is this the right way?” They even make audience imagine a conversation like that.
The group will first pay their respects at Nanasho Shrine before heading to the community center.
Due to certain circumstances, my visit this time took place in the afternoon—from 2:00 to about 3:30—so it was a short visit, but I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Anyway, you’ll really understand just how strange and quirky this is when you see it with your own eyes. The Shōjō appear not only here but in other places as well, so if you get the chance, be sure to check them out at least once.
Reference
For your reference, here’s a brief overview of some of the festivals featuring the Shōjō.
Nagakusa Tenjin Shrine Doburoku Festival 44 Hongo, Nagakusa-cho, Obu City From “Nagoya” Station on the JR Tokaido Main Line, get off at “Kyowa” Station. February 25 or the Sunday immediately preceding it Funatsu Shrine Festival 1 Funatsu, Nawa-cho, Tokai City The fourth Sunday of September and the day before, every year Get off at “Nawa Station” on the Meitetsu Tokoname Line; 11-minute walk https://www.tokaikanko.com/event/syoujyoumetta/ Arimatsu Tenman Shrine Autumn Festival 10 Yonezuka, Narumi-chō, Midori Ward, Nagoya the first Sunday in October Get off at Arimatsu Station on the Meitetsu Nagoya Main Line (approx. 10-minute walk) Approx. 20 minutes from Nagoya Station
Hikami anego shrine 1-3 Hishikami-yama, Takata-cho Midori Ward, Nagoya City First Sunday in October
Tracing the Origins of Kagura in the Holy Grounds of Izumo ~2. Akatsuka kagura 赤塚神楽
Date; The Saturday closest to October 25 each year Location; 1894 Oaza Kitsuki-Nishi, Taisha-cho, Izumo City, Shimane Prefecture Access; official Instagram https://www.instagram.com/akatsukakagura/reels/ This article is based on 25th October, 2025
Another Kagura Performance Near Izumo Taisha (Grand Shrine)
It’s just a stone’s throw away from the shrine where the Ōdochi Kagura introduced in Section 1 is held. If you turn a wrong corner, there’s a good chance you’ll end up at the other shrine. Although the two are so similar, there are also many differences between them. It starts at 3:00 p.m. The schedule here runs from daytime, with a break in the middle, until evening.
The shrine grounds are spacious, and the stage isn’t particularly elaborate. There aren’t any special decorations on it.
A distinctive feature of this kagura is the high proportion of young performers. In particular, the first half consists of a series of performances featuring only children.
Although it has a long history, it is said to have been interrupted once by war. Given this background, there is a strong movement to actively encourage local children to become familiar with it and to nurture them as future practitioners. Perhaps because of that, the audience—especially in the first half—consisted mostly of people involved in the production.
Masks used in this kagura are the rugged ones typical of Izumo Kagura. They give a very different impression from the flamboyant Iwami Kagura, even though both are from Shimane Prefecture.
Hino-misaki
“Misaki” means “cape.” Hinomisaki is one of Izumo’s tourist attractions by the sea, famous for its beautiful sunsets. The shrine located here is said to be the one that guards the night, in contrast to Ise Grand Shrine, which guards the day. A performance unique to the local area, inspired by Hinomisaki. It’s a story of good triumphing over evil, in which the god of Hinomisaki defeats an evil deity attempting to invade the land. It’s easy to follow. It was a little past 4:00 p.m. It was the perfect setting for Hinomisaki at sunset. From this point on, the kagura performances really began to pick up steam.
More enemies appear, and the action heats up. By this point, the audience has grown considerably.
Intermission
Kojin
“Kojin” is another play with roots in Izumo. The story is said to have actually taken place right here in this very place. Even though it’s just a play, watching it here in this place is deeply moving. This myth, known as the “Transfer of the Country,” tells the story of how an envoy from Amaterasu arrived and demanded that Ōkuninushi, who ruled this land, cede it to her. It may seem unfair, but history is written by the victors. The masks look just like those in Kabuki or Peking Opera.
Ōkuninushi is often depicted as the deity known as Daikoku-sama. Daikoku is one of the seven deities who bring happiness to people. However, the two are completely unrelated—they share only the same pronunciation of their kanji characters. Because of this, his son, “Kotoshironushi,” is also depicted in the form of the deity Ebisu. He makes his entrance carrying a sea bream, but—as is typical of Ebisu—he didn’t bring the gift specifically to curry favor with the messenger. *about 7 of goods bringing fortune to people https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2021/04/05/seven-deities-of-good-fortune-parade-celebrating-the-new-year-at-the-center-of-tokyo/
Okuninushi and Kotokishiro-nushi agreed, but their other son refused to comply. He challenged them to a contest of strength, but… Eventually, he was defeated and, for some reason, fled all the way to Suwa (a region in present-day Nagano Prefecture). There is a large shrine here called Suwa Taisha, which consists of four separate shrines; it is a shrine filled with mysteries, and it remains unclear why such a massive shrine came to be built in this location.
Orochi
It was already nearing 8:00 p.m. After a performance by the children, the final act of the evening—and the grandest climax—was about to begin. A large crowd had already gathered. Food stalls selling soba and other items—there are several of them—are seeing a steady stream of customers.
When it comes to slaying the Orochi, Shimane Prefecture comes to mind. It’s truly a local tradition.
It is also a popular production, particularly throughout western Japan.
The scene begins with the parents lamenting in front of their beloved Princess Kushinada. Just then, Susanoo arrives. “Leave it to me,” he says.
Orochi makes an appearance. Here, it’s done entirely in the Iwami Kagura style. Four of them appeared that day. The story remains the same: they make Orochi drink the poisoned sake they’ve prepared, and once they have drunk, he defeat them.
The performance ended around 9:00 p.m. Even though it was October, the performers were drenched in sweat from their passionate performance. They gave it their all with their youthful energy.
There are few places to stay near Izumo Taisha, and prices are high. You can think of it as being similar to a resort area. The area near Izumo City Station is a popular choice and has plenty of accommodations. Furthermore, since it takes just over an hour to get to Matsue, you might want to consider staying there as well.
Tracing the Origins of Kagura in the Holy Grounds of Izumo ~1. Odochi Kagura
*Google Maps lists it as “Daitochi,” but the correct name is “Odochi”—it’s a mistake.
Date; One day during the Golden Week period in May: Kagura Dedication Ceremony at Izumo Taisha Saturdays from late May to early June: Evening Torchlight Dance at Inasa Beach The Friday and Saturday closest to 25 October Location; Odochiko shrine 2425 Kizuki-Nishi, Taisha-chō, Izumo City, other
Access; About 1 kilometer from Izumo Taisha-mae Station, a 15-minute walk To get to Taisha-mae Station, take the Limited Express Yakumo from Okayama to Izumo City Station. From there, take the local line. There are other overnight trains departing from Tokyo, but they’re as popular as concerts by famous singers, so it’s very difficult to get tickets.
This article is based on 24th October, 2025
The Land called Izumo
Limited express “Yakumo”
Izumo Taisha (grand shrine)
Shimane Prefecture is famous for Iwami Kagura. However, Iwami is in the western part of the prefecture, while in the eastern part—Izumo—there is another style of kagura known as Izumo Kagura. This article introduces the Odochi Kagura, one of the Izumo Kagura traditions.
Many Japanese people dream of visiting Ise and Izumo someday. These are the locations of Ise Grand Shrine and Izumo Grand Shrine, two of Japan’s most iconic shrines, and they are revered as Japan’s most powerful spiritual sites. In particular, Izumo Taisha is renowned as a shrine dedicated to the god of matchmaking, which is why it attracts so many visitors. Izumo is also a region where many ancient mythological tales have been preserved. It is also famous as a place where gods from all over Japan gather once a year. In other words, the land itself is imbued with divinity.
Looking for the Origins of Modern Kagura
In fact, Izumo is not only the land of mythology, but also the birthplace of kagura. Although it is said that the origins of Kagura date back to mythological times, the form we see today took shape hundreds of years ago.
The most famous of these is the Sada-shin noh at Sada Shrine, which is said to have been created by incorporating Noh theater techniques learned in Kyoto. Because it was of such high quality, it is said to have influenced many forms of Kagura in the surrounding areas and throughout the Kanto region.
And here is another form of kagura that is considered to be one of the origins of the tradition: the Ōdochi Kagura.
Odochi Kagura
With winter fast approaching, the days are getting shorter. After walking for about 15 minutes through the old town as dusk falls, you’ll come to Ōdochi-ko Shrine. Actually, this Kagura performance is scheduled to start at 6:00 p.m. and end at 2:00 a.m.! (For questions like, “How am I supposed to watch it with so little time?”—I’ll explain that later, so please check that section.) It’s such a small place that you’d never guess it’s a shrine that passed down the famous Kagura tradition. There is a stage in front of the shrine. As the surroundings grow completely dark, the audience is drawn to this spot, as if they had wandered into another world.
Overview of Odochi Kagura
A total of 17 performances were presented that day. The program was particularly ambitious, featuring the revival of the Sarutahiko performance, among other highlights. Looking at the overall flow, the performance begins with ritualistic segments (which are performed without masks), and gradually becomes more theatrical as the children and the masked performers interact.
A play in which the mountain god chases a child and eventually catches him. The background story is that the child is actually a messenger of other gods who has come to summon the mountain god.
Headline Performances
Tamura
This is the story of a general named Sakanoueno Tamuramaro who fought against bandits entrenched in the mountains. General Tamuramaro was a real historical figure who, acting on the orders of the emperor who established the Heian period (8C~12C), subdued the Tohoku region. He was the first person to be appointed general, and although he was a skilled warrior, he is said to have been deeply compassionate toward his enemies, which has made him very popular.
Sankan
A play based on the legend of Empress Jingū* and her loyal vassal, Takenouchi no Sukune, who conquered the three kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula. One of the most popular performances in this kagura. *Empress Jingu →Empress Jingu was also a real historical figure. Since she appeared during a time when the line between myth and reality was blurred, little is known about her in detail. However, despite being an empress, there are many stories about her, and her expedition to the Korean Peninsula is one of them. Furthermore, the fact that the Emperor is referred to using the character for “god” makes him a special Emperor, and the use of that same character for her, as Empress, is deeply mysterious.
Just when you thought Empress Jingu was simply standing in the background…
(Empress Jingū) as soon as she saw that the Sukune were at a disadvantage, rushed out herself and defeated all three of them in one fell swoop. Her gesture, as if to say, “How about that?” to the audience, was just like something out of professional wrestling. The audience couldn’t help but get excited.
Kojin
Messengers from Amaterasu came many times, but each time, Okuninushi remained loyal to her. Finally, Amaterasu sent a warrior named Takeminakata to subdue Okuninushi. However, her son refused to accept this and challenged them to battle, only to be defeated and forced to flee. This play is based on that myth.
This story is about the younger days of Okuninushi, who appeared in the previous performance. It tells the tale of how he was bullied by his brothers but eventually defeated his wicked older brothers and built a peaceful country.
Yato
This performance depicts one of the most famous episodes in mythology: Susanoo’s battle against the (Orochi) eight-headed serpent. In a sense, this performance best exemplifies the defining characteristics of this kagura.
To briefly summarize the story: When Susanoo arrives in this land, he notices a parents and daughter crying. The father explains that every year, Orochi comes and they are forced to offer their daughter as a sacrifice. He adds that this year it is the turn of their eighth and final princess. Then Susanoo devises a plan and successfully defeats Orochi—that is the story.
In recent years, in western Japan, the influence of Iwami Kagura—which originates in the western part of Shimane Prefecture—has been significant. In particular, the depiction of Orochi, the giant serpent coiled in a spiral, can be seen widely from Kyushu to Okayama. However, here, the figure is simply depicted with a human-like body and a tail. This is a form commonly seen in Kagura performances in the Kanto region. Since it was introduced to the Kanto region before the Meiji era, it still retained this simple form at that time. And this kagura, too, continues to preserve its ancient form. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2022/10/05/entertainment-by-the-name-of-iwami-kagura/
But putting that aside, it’s simply a fascinating form of Kagura to watch. The unique movements, the chants, and the lavish costumes reminiscent of Noh—everything is filled with a power that leaves the audience in awe. If you ever get the chance, you definitely won’t regret seeing it live.
Additional information ~What to do at 2 a.m.?
The Kagura performance ends at 2:00 a.m. as scheduled. While locals may be fine, what are tourists supposed to do? 1. Of course, there are several places to stay near Izumo Taisha. However, since it’s a tourist destination, prices tend to be high. 2. Option 2: Stay near Izumoshi Station. There are more accommodations near Izumo shi Station. However, it is more than 8 kilometers away from Taisha-mae. Since it’s late at night, there is no public transportation. In such cases, I recommend using a bike-sharing service. You can rent a bike for a low fee, and it’s available even late at night. It’s also convenient because there are cycle stations at both Izumo-shi Station and Taisha-mae Station. The tourist information center at Izumo City Station will explain how to rent one. For those who feel it’s a waste of money to stay at a hotel late at night, there’s always the option of a 24-hour café near the station. While it’s not as comfortable as a hotel, you can still take a nap in a private booth.
Date: Spring through fall (peaks in April and October) Location: Sado 佐渡 Island City, Niigata Prefecture Access: From various locations to Niigata 新潟 Station or Niigata Airport. From there, take a bus to Niigata Port, from where there are steamers to Sado Island. From Tokyo, it takes about 2.5 to 3 hours by Shinkansen to Niigata Port. There is also a way to get there from Naoetsu 直江津 via Naoetsu Port. From Niigata Port, you can go to Ryotsu 両津 Port, and from Naoetsu, you can go to Ogi 小木 Port, which are different arrival points.
There is an island where groups of drummers go from house to house. And they are demons, no less. That name is Sado Island. Across from Tokyo lies Niigata Prefecture. From there, it’s another 30-minute to one-hour boat ride. It is the second-largest island in Japan, after Okinawa. There is a day on that island when demons visit every home. And the people look forward to it with anticipation. They say the demons are messengers of the gods. They are called oni, and the act of them beating drums is known as “Oni taiko (ogre drums).”People say this island is a treasure trove of performing arts. Among them, the most representative is this “Oni Taiko.” The locals also call it “ondeko. From spring to fall, the sound of taiko drums echoes throughout the island, and Oni dance in the air. There are more than 120 of them. It is true that the island is as large as the 23 wards of Tokyo, or about half the size of Osaka, but there are still many of them. Let’s take a look at what kind of Oni-daiko the islanders love so much.
Oni-daiko is an extremely simple art form consisting of a single drum, a drummer, and a dancer, the Oni. Oni Taiko festivals do not have a mikoshi (portable shrine) or pull a dashi around as in regular festivals. Instead, they do something called kadozuke 門付け. Kado means gate, and tsuke means to drop in, which means to visit each door. This is an old custom in which performers go from house to house to bless their families and in return receive a reward. In the past, many performers earned their money that way, but nowadays, the main purpose is to walk around blessing each house as God’s representative, rather than for remuneration. There is Ise Kagura centered in Mie Prefecture and a group of kagura performers who still travel over a wide area in Iwate Prefecture in the Tohoku region. Therefore, even if you go to the shrine on the day of the festival, there is nothing there. After the first and last dedication at the shrine, the group goes out to the community.
A day at Oni Taiko starts early in the morning. First, the group heads to a shrine. There they dedicate first formal dance. After that, they go to the village and perform the dance from door to door. Sometimes there are more than 100 houses in a village. When a group of taiko drummers arrives, people entertain them by preparing hospitality. If requested, a designated dancer other than oni may also dance. In addition, the masks may be displayed there for a time in the house where the original masks were made, or a special dance may be performed. After visiting all the houses, they return to the shrine to perform the dedication dance. It is not unusual for the dance to end around 10:00 p.m. This is why young people are always needed for the physical strength of the dancers.
There are several classifications of oni taiko according to the way it is performed. There are three major categories, and five more detailed categories are often used. In order to avoid complications, we will inquire about three types. Types include the Maehama type, Aikawa type, and Kuninaka type, named after the region. The most commonly seen is the Kuninaka type , in which two Oni, A (open-mouthed, not “ei”) and Um (closed-mouthed), dance alternately. This type is about 60% of the total. It is a form that was adopted by masters who learned Noh in the past. Therefore, the basic movement is to use a slip. The dance is also characterized by the intensity of the “A” and the quietness of the “Um”. Sometimes Shishi ( lions) is involved, which makes the dance more dynamic. Maehama type is two oni facing each other and dancing. Sometimes a dancer wearing a mask with only the upper half of his face, called Rouso, joins them. The roso is the highest-ranking dancer in the group. And the Aikawa type is often seen in the northwestern part of the island. Here, oni appear but do not dance. They just stand there with a spear. Instead, a dancer wearing an old man’s mask dances with a square to hold beans.
Representative Oni-daiko
Niibo-funashimo（新穂舟下）
There are four shrines with the same name, Hiyoshi Shrine, in the Shinbo area, and oni taiko drums are dedicated to one of these shrines at a festival on April 13. Kuninaka style with two oni dancing with their mouths open “a” and mouth closed “un”. When the drums are set up, they begin to beat the drums from the back side. One by one, oni dance to the rhythm of the taiko drum, with their steps based on the rhythm of the drum. The oni tries to beat the drum, but two lions appear as if to prevent them from doing so. The oni calm them down, brush them off, and move toward the taiko drum.
It is dedicated to the autumn festival of Kumano Shrine in the district located facing the mainland. The Maehama style features two oni, one red and one blue, dancing relative to each other at the same time. A lion also makes an appearance, but it is a large lion that can hold seven adults. In addition, there is an instructor named Roso, who wears a mask with only the upper half of his face. Roso sometimes dances, and sometimes looks down on the whole group to keep it together.
It goes around all the houses and comes back to the shrine again at the end, and the lion’s climb up the stairs that takes place at that time is worth seeing. Not only do they climb up, but the front tries to go up while the back tries to go back down. The lion’s hesitation is what makes the performance so powerful.
The Aikawa style of Onidaiko, which began in the Aikawa district, is named Onidaiko, but despite the name, the Oni (demons) do nothing. Or, not even Oni. The main actor is an old man (a virtuous old man), holding a bean-throwing square in his hand, which can often be seen in Setsubun 節分 (a ceremony held in February to drive away evil spirits). For example, in the Aikawa district, the birthplace of the festival, two people holding long swords simply stand there. Only the ogo (master) dances to the rhythm of the taiko drums.
Kita-Kawachi Matsuri (北川内祭り）
In addition, there are composite style festivals. For example, in the Kitakawachi district, three lion dancers appear before a bean-throwing Okina. The three lion dances are no different in content from the lion dances that can usually be seen mainly in the Kanto area.
Add to that the mysterious mask of “Tsuburo”. Tsuburo appears between the lions. After that, the old man makes his appearance.
There are many other types of oni taiko with distinctive characteristics, such as the one-legged dancing style. It is no exaggeration to say that there are as many different oni taiko as there are districts and festivals. Sado is also a region that has handed down a variety of performing arts, not only oni taiko. Every year at the end of May, a festival is held to bring together all of Sado’s performing arts. Sado is an island where old Japan can be seen everywhere, and it is well worth a visit.
Discover the Rich History of Ashikaga’s Kagura Tradition
Location; 1723 Kabasaki-cho, Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture
Date; the third Sunday in April and October
Access;It takes about two hours by local train from Tokyo to Ashikaga (JR) or Ashikaga City (Tobu Line). If travelling by Shinkansen, you will need to change at Takasaki. Approximately 6 km from Ashikaga, or Ashikaga Station.
In brief, the history of Japan is that rice cultivation gave rise to large-scale political forces in various parts of the country, which eventually came together in armed struggle to form one united government. These are the ancestors of the present-day Emperors. Thereafter, a long period of political rule centred on the emperor, with influential aristocrats gathered around him. They stayed in the capital cities of Nara and Kyoto, and maintained power by siphoning off revenues from their local fiefdoms. but the territory is limited. Ownership disputes and other conflicts began to arise between neighbouring lands. The nobles then had their armed men settle the disputes. The armed forces rapidly became powerful. They were the samurai. Eventually, the samurai moved into the centre of power, eventually creating their own government in Kanto (Kamakura), far from Kyoto. At the centre at this time was the Hojo clan, who seized power by destroying other clans like a Mafia war. This period lasted for about 150 years. However, the number of people dissatisfied with the Hojo clan potentially increased, leading them to overthrow the Hojo regime and create a new one in Kyoto. The Ashikaga clan was central at this time and became shoguns in the new regime. Eventually, Ashikaga’s power waned and an era of divided warlords dawned; Japan was ultimately reunified by the Tokugawa shogun, but that is a story for another time.
The Ashikaga clan’s home town is now Ashikaga City. The kagura presented here takes place in a town with such a historical background.
Kabasaki Hatiman shrine
The Kabasaki Hachimangu shrine, where the story takes place, was founded by the Ashikaga clan. As proof, the shrine has a curtain with the Ashikaga family crest on it. This report is about the kagura performed here. It is a bit far from the station, so It is therefore a good idea to hire a bike at the station. The road is flat and straight. It is easy to find. About 45 minutes on a bicycle. The area is away from the city center and the scenery is much more idyllic. Kagura is also loosely in tune with the landscape. It was scheduled to start at 10.00 am, but actually started at around 10.30 am.
The Appearance of the Hachiman Deity
First, one program without a mask. After that was the dance of the god of war, Hachiman. As befits a god of war, he takes his bow and arrow and points it in all directions. This is not to glorify warfare, but to drive away the bad spirits that lurk in the area. He protects shrines, villages and people.
Lunch break here. The locals sold Yakisoba noodles the area for 100 yen. They are almost all volunteers. Cheap. That’s why they sell so well. The shrine is said to be associated with the Ashikaga clan, but it is plain for a family that once ruled the country (from the early 14th century to the 16th century). It is said to have originally been larger and grander, but declined as the Ashikaga regime fell. However, the decoration is fine. There was a person who told me many details, and I thought he was a local historian, but to my surprise he was a descendant of the Ashikaga clan. There are many things that can only be understood by actually going there.
After lunch
The next step is the famous opening of Ama-no-Iwato (the rock door inheaven), where the main actors are Ameno-uzume, Tajikarao and Amaterasu… Ameno-uzume only performs a short dance, and Amaterasu leaves the stage just as soon as she appears. In the end, only Tajikarao was the only prominent performer in the troupe. As village people handed down kagura, They probably omitted more and more parts that were not relevant to real life and Kagura gradually changes to a form more suited to the locality. The story of Amaterasu is important as Japanese mythology, but not so much for the people.
Let’s keep it casual and take it easy
And finally, the common people’s group appears. In case , the god Ebisu (this god represents the common people’s group) is the star of the performance. Seven gods that common people have believed in since the Middle Ages. All of them bring happiness to people. Ebisu is one of the most popular among them. That is why Ebisu plays such an important role in this kind of kagura in the village. But in reality, the main attraction is a droll duo. So, these two people fish on behalf of Ebisu and throw snacks and treats. Many children gather, but for them, this is almost the main thing. That’s why it’s a big deal. But if you look closely, they don’t keep it to themselves. Is this another merit of God?
Next to Ebisu comes a deity named Daikoku, who is as popular as he is. He is able to bring forth treasures by waving a mallet in his hand. So here is another big treat of sweets.
Next is Inari, another indispensable deity in the kagura of the village. Inari is the god of rice cultivation in general, and is served by a fox. However, in terms of order, they usually appear earlier. The audience is already in the mood for sweets, so they put rice cultivation aside and start scattering rice again. Since it is kagura, they dance on stage, but people’s attention has already turned to when they are going to throw things.
The stage is now in full “Mochi-nage (Originally, the name was derived from the throwing of rice cakes. Nowadays, various throws such as snacks or candy)” mode. The Ebisuza has begun again. Exactly the same program, exactly the same flow. This happens sometimes in kagura in the village.
Happiness for everyone
The performance ends with a purification of the stage by a mountain god called “Yama-gami” (mountain god). However, to the surprise of the audience, even the mountain deity do Mochi-nage. It is a great service. The people who had stayed until the very end were very satisfied. Good things come to those who wait. This is how kagura continues into the next year.
be intoxicated by a fox show ~Takengei in Nagasaki
Date: October 14 and 15 every year Location: Wakamiya-Inari 若宮稲荷 shrine, 2-10-2 Irabayashi 伊良林, Nagasaki City, Nagasaki Access: From Nagasaki 長崎 Station, take a streetcar (bound for Hotaruchaya 蛍茶屋) for about 8 minutes, get off at Shin Daikokucho 大工町 stop, and walk about 10 minutes. From JR Nagasaki Station, take a 15-minute bus ride to Shindaiko-cho 新大工町 and get off at Shindaiko-cho stop, then walk about 10 minutes.
Nagasaki
The only town that had an open port even during the period of national seclusion. The only town where foreign cultural relics could be obtained officially. Along with Hiroshima, it experienced the atomic bombing. Nagasaki is a small port town with many faces, but it is also one of the most attractive. However, when it comes to performing arts using masks, there is not much that stands out. Most of them are kagura, a form of kagura that has been passed down from generation to generation on the island. One of these performing arts that can be seen in Nagasaki City is ” Taken-gei,”
The setting is Wakamiya Inari Shrine. It is not a very large shrine, but there are as many as 70 torii gates on the grounds. Two towering bamboos stand in the precincts of a shrine. One is about 10 meters high and has a staircase called “kase” for climbing.
Then the two appeared dressed as a male and female fox. They climbed up the bamboo and performed various tricks on a 10-meter-high platform. The audience could only look up in amazement as the performers performed their tricks on the swaying bamboos without lifelines.
In fact, there are two more bamboos standing next to it, each about 5 meters long. This is for children to show off their skills, and elementary school children between the ages of five and eight can also show off their skills.
