Enjoy the Performing Arts in Hiraizumi, Where the Autumn Foliage Shines Brightly ~Fujiwara festival ~Day 2



Date; Every year from November 1 to 3
Location; Chuson-ji Temple, Motsu-ji Temple—Hiraizumi Town, Iwate Prefecture
Access; Take the Shinkansen to Ichinoseki Station, then transfer to a local train; it takes about 10 minutes to reach Hiraizumi. It’s about a 25-minute walk from the station to the entrance of Chuson-ji Temple, and about a 10-minute walk to Motsu-ji Temple.
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2026/07/08/enjoy-the-performing-arts-in-hiraizumi-where-the-autumn-foliage-shines-brightly-fujiwara-festival-day-1/

This article based on 2th~3rd November, 2025

Day 2 ~Schedule

Kawanishi dainenbutsu kenbai (sword dance) 10:00 a.m. (Chusonji temple Konjikido) 11:00 a.m. /1:00 p.m. (Chusonji templemain hall)
Noh 11:00 a.m./1:00 p.m. (Chusonji temple Noh stage)
Shishi odori (Deer dance) 10:30 a.m. (Hiraizumi station) 12:30 p.m. (Motsuji temple) 2:30 p.m. (Chusonji temple main hall)
Dance of Ennen 11:00 a.m. (Motsuji temple)
*While there aren’t usually any major changes from year to year, please check the website and other sources each time.

The Slope Leading to Chūson-ji Temple

The Gate of Mōtsū-ji Temple

The schedule is divided into very specific time slots, and the locations are spread out across Chūson-ji Temple, Mōtsū-ji Temple, and the area in front of the station. Furthermore, even within Chūson-ji Temple, the schedule is divided among the Main Hall, the Konjikido Hall, and the Noh stage.
It’s about 1.5 km from Chūson-ji Temple to the station, and from there you have to climb a steep hill to finally reach the main hall. Since the Konjikido Hall and the Noh stage are located beyond that, it takes quite a while. The distance from the entrance to Chuson-ji Temple to Motsu-ji Temple is about 2.3 kilometers. There are bike rentals available in front of the station, so using one of those is one way to shorten the trip. In any case, since getting around takes time, it’ll be tough unless you decide in advance where to go and what to see.

Chusonji temple Konjikido

A performance will take place in front of the Konjikidō Hall at Chūson-ji Temple starting at 10:30 a.m. As mentioned in the section on the Hounokizawa Nenbutsu Sword Dance, this is a type of sword dance.
There are more performances than in Hounokizawa, including solo dances and group dances. On this day, the program began with a solo dance.

This is a dance piece performed by three dancers. It incorporates some fairly complex movements and features many theatrical elements.
The performance lasts about 30 minutes.

Chusonji temple Main hall

It was just past 1:00 p.m. They moved to the area in front of the main hall for the next performance. First, everyone performed a dance centered around a monkey.
This is followed by a solo performance, which then leads into a performance by three people.

A performance lasting about 20 minutes.

11:00 a.m. for about 50 minutes, on the stage next to the Main Hall of Motsuji Temple

In short, the term “Ennen 延年” in the Ennen Dance refers to the wish for longevity. Its origins date back some 800 years. It reached its peak around the 12th century but began to lose popularity around the 14th century, along with the decline in the popularity of Noh. As a result, there are few remaining examples throughout Japan, and the one here at Mōtsū-ji Temple has been designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Property.

The long passage of time has caused many plays to be lost.
The most famous is the “Dance of the Old Woman.” This performance requires a high level of skill because the dancer bends his or her waist extremely low while dancing.

You can see it at the festivals on January 20, May 5, and November 3 https://iwatetabi.jp/en/spots/94710/

The event begins at 11:00 a.m. at the Noh stage. The photo shows the performance titled “Makura Jido,” which starts at 1:00 p.m.
Further back from the Konjikidō is Hakusan Shrine, and there is a Noh stage nearby. Although it was rebuilt in the early 19th century, it has a very atmospheric appearance.
It should be noted, however, that not all Noh performances are plays; some consist solely of singing, and others solely of dancing. If you look closely at the program or other materials, you’ll find this information there.

Shishi odori (Deer dance)

It starts at 10:30 a.m. in front of Hiraizumi Station, at 12:30 p.m. at Motsuji Temple, and at 2:30 p.m. in front of the main hall at Chuson-ji Temple. This photo was taken in front of the main hall at Chuson-ji Temple.
The finale is the deer dance, a familiar sight in the Tohoku region. This time, it’s the “Gyozan-ryu Miyako-dori” deer dance. They pound the ground, send the sound of the drums echoing to the heavens, and their songs—which seem to well up from the depths of the earth—are as vibrant as ever. The performance, which lasted about 20 minutes, thoroughly impressed the audience.
*The following article should be helpful for learning about the deer dance. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/11/30/michinoku-traditional-folk-performing-festival-the-deer-dance/




Enjoy the Performing Arts in Hiraizumi, Where the Autumn Foliage Shines Brightly ~Fujiwara festival ~Day 1



Date; Every year from November 1 to 3
Location; Chuson-ji Temple, Motsu-ji Temple—Hiraizumi Town, Iwate Prefecture
Access; Take the Shinkansen to Ichinoseki Station, then transfer to a local train; it takes about 10 minutes to reach Hiraizumi. It’s about a 25-minute walk from the station to the entrance of Chuson-ji Temple, and about a 10-minute walk to Motsu-ji Temple.

This article based on 2th~3rd November, 2025

the Hiraizumi station

the Konjiki -do (Chusonji-temple)

 Hiraizumi is one of the leading tourist destinations in the Tohoku region. This is thanks to Chuson-ji Temple, built here in the Middle Ages, and the National Treasure, the Konjikido Hall, located within the temple grounds. “Konjiki” simply means golden. True to its name, there is a temple that still stands today, with its entire structure covered in gold. For more details, please refer to other websites introducing Japan, but on this site, we’d like to introduce the Fujiwara Festival held at this temple.
  There are two Fujiwara Festivals: one in the spring (early May) and one in the fall. The spring festival mainly features performances by celebrities and reenactments of historical processions; it is a lively event that draws large crowds. As for autumn, while it may lack some of the showiness, it more than makes up for it with the many performing arts deeply rooted in this region.
Hiraizumi town official https://hiraizumi.or.jp/en/
Iwate prefecture official https://www.hiraizumi-heritage.pref.iwate.jp/

>

That day, starting at 10:30 a.m., the Hounokizawa Nenbutsu Sword Dance welcomed us right in front of the station.
Although “Nenbutsu Kenbai” literally translates to Buddhist chanting sword dance, it is a sword dance that, at its core, incorporates prayers for the deceased. While “Oni-kenbai*,” the representative sword dance of Kitakami City, focuses primarily on the performing arts, it can be said that Nenbutsu Kenbai has a stronger religious spiritual dimension.
However, an outsider wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.
*https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/10/18/michinoku-traditional-performing-art-festivaloni-kenbai/

After their performance, which lasts about 20 minutes, they’ll pose for commemorative photos.
Following this, two more performances are scheduled—one in front of the Konjikidō Hall at Chūson-ji Temple and another at Mōtsū-ji Temple. Accordingly, this article will follow them as they tour the famous sights of Hiraizumi for the day.

Chuson-ji Temple is located on top of a mountain. Because of this, visitors must climb a very long slope to reach it. The slope is particularly steep in the first half, so there are even ropes along the side for visitors to hold onto.

That said, it’s autumn, and visitors forget their weariness amid the fiery autumn foliage.

Starting at 12:30 p.m., there was also a dance performance in front of the Konjikidō. Many tourists were delighted by this unexpected treat.

Mōtsū-ji Temple is located about a 10-minute walk from the station in the opposite direction from Chūson-ji Temple.
Mōtsū-ji is one of Hiraizumi’s most famous sights, alongside Chūson-ji. Its vast grounds, which feature a large pond, are said to be modeled after the Buddhist Pure Land, and they amply evoke the prosperity of the clan that once ruled this region.

At 2:30 p.m., the sounds of flutes and drums echoed as the group approached. As scheduled, the final performance took place in front of the main hall of Motsuji Temple.

To be continued in the next section, on the second day




Nitayama and Hagino serow dance in Shinjo festibal



Date: 26 August, every year
Location: 6-86 Horibatamachi, Shinjo, Yamagata 6-86 Tozawa 戸澤 Shrine Gokoku 護国 Shrine and Minami Honcho Crossroads
Access: About 1 hr 15 mins on the Yamagata 山形 Line from Yamagata.
3 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen approx. 2+ hours from Sendai 仙台 (conventional line)
By air from Yamagata Airport and Shonai 庄内 Airport.
Highway night bus, etc.

Article based on reports from August 26, 2017

the other worldly creatures

People are always attracted to the other worldly creature. In Western paintings, angels always look the same, whereas demons are diverse and always fascinating. Legends of fairies and spirits are ubiquitous. The Japanese have used a very rich and varied imagination when it comes to such things. In Japan, ‘yokai’ is a major content. Most Noh plays, for example, consist of dialogues with ghosts and other forms. And it’s the same at festivals. At this moment, the deities, like monstrous creatures and like yokai are active.

Two distinctive Deer dance

The deer dance presented here is from Shinjo, Yamagata Prefecture, in the western part of the Tohoku region. On the west side of Tohoku region, there are variety of Deer dances, which is different from the east side. Why have various dances been handed down in Yamagata Prefecture? The reason is the history of this land.

End of Mogami clan

Yamagata Prefecture region was once ruled by the powerful Mogami clan. The Mogami family is the hero of the Tohoku region, along with the Date family in the east. Unfortunately, however, after the death of the hero Yoshiaki, a succession problem arose and the Mogami family decrease their rank in the Tokugawa shogun system. After this, the Tokugawa family divided its vast territory into smaller feudal lords, so the performing arts were handed down in a more varied form than in the west (Iwate and Miyagi prefectures).

Features and visual

Nitayama 仁田山

Hagino 萩野

Nitayama and Hagino are neighbors in the same city of Shinjo. Since the area is adjacent, they are almost same, except for the costumes and the masks. Its appearance looks more like a deer, another creature rather than a lion. It is handed down in the region that it was modelled on a serow. While Nitayama’s costumes are more colorful, Hagino’s look more folk-like. In particular, the black cloth that protects the feet reminds us of those worn by travelers in the past. Even today, sometimes agricultural workers wear them. The performer covers his entire body with a thin curtain and beats a small drum on his belly. The drum has a long arm-like object. The group consists of seven members, one in the middle is the leader, and the other six members are divided into three on each side.

Two singers stand with umbrella-covered at the rear. They have an instrument called sasara.

The other two members have sasara, an instrument made of bamboo that is rubbed together to produce a sound, and are in charge of singing. The lyrics of the song are the same in both groups. They also have a banner on their backs with the name of each place. Others have the words ‘five days of wind’ and ‘ten days of rain’ dyed on them. This comes from the legend that when each of these occurs, a good harvest will result.

Flow of performance

The flow is almost the same for both. The first part of the performance is the entrance. They praise the garden. This is an expression of respect to the house that invited them. Next follows a scene of fighting over a doe. It is difficult for the audience to tell which is the doe. However, the intense fight scene is a highlight. Then comes the fierce fighting between the doe, followed by a dance of gratitude for the congratulatory gifts received. The performers then leave the hall. However, the existence of what appears to be a doe is not clear, and it is difficult for the audience to understand whether it is a struggle over a deers in a clear-cut way. One person from each of the left and right rows comes out to fight, and then everyone joins in and things get exciting. The leader comes out at the end to settle the dispute, so it seems as if the henchmen start a fight and the bosses arbitrate it, perhaps because their appearance reminds them of an old *yakuza family.
*yakuza ; Old gambler. They were mainly gamble. Although they were part of the underworld, they were also the unofficial face of the town and did not always have a bad image; some of them corrected corrupt officials on behalf of the common people.

A leader of Nitayama

an image of old gambler and traveller

Hey, you guys. Can’t you keep it down? You look disgusting in front of everybody. Today is the Shinjo Festival. You disgrace the Hagino family, don’t you?…. I can’t help thinking he’s going to say something like that.

Tradition

Their appearance is unusual, not unlike lion dances or deer dances anywhere else. It is said that this is actually an image of a serow. It is said that they imitate the way serow herd and play in the mountains near here. There is a more detailed legend about Nitayama. In the past, this area was seen by the central government as an object to be conquered. Then a great general came from the center. They defeated the armies of the region and ruled. At that time, they governed the people so well that the people, who were at first afraid of them, soon became accustomed to their rule. One day, when the general was returning to the capital, he asked the residents to organize a dance to commemorate the occasion. The inhabitants were annoyed, but one of them devised and performed a dance in which the skeletons of serow and deer were placed on their heads and covered with straw and grass. The general was so impressed by this that he had him rewarded with a prize.

Hagino has this episode. It is said that when Yoshiaki Mogami, referenced earlier, gathered all the deer dances in the territory together, he praised the one here as the best. This is evidence that by that time (the second half of the 16th century), the dance had already taken its present form. Later, another feudal lord came, but he also liked it best. After the Meiji Restoration (late 19th century), the clan leader moved to Tokyo. And when they visited his grave, they again watched the dances, but only one other than Hagino took part. The clan leader wished that the dance would be preserved for a long time because it was his family’s dance. And Hagino is the only one that has remained to the present day.

Hagino again

Two deer dances performed at two neighbouring shrines in the morning, but only Hagino has the opportunity to see them again during the day. This time, the dance is performed in front of a larger audience in the town’s central quadrangle. The content of the dance does not change, but the festival audience takes up positions on all four sides, so the audience feel more enthusiasm and the dance is more spectacular here.

Shinjo festival

To begin with, these two deer dances are at the Shinjo Festival. The Shinjo Festival has been held in the area for about 260 years and has been inscribed as a UNESCO Heritage Site because of the magnificent stalls. The festival lasts for three days, the eve of the festival, the main festival and the post the festival.

The main attraction is the decoration of the floats, which are made by people from each township in their spare time from work. The floats are beautifully decorated with scenes from history, Kabuki and stories, and parade through the town. On the second day, a total of 200 citizens re-enact the procession of the feudal lords of the past.

On the third day, after the Deer Dance, all floats gather for a disbanding ceremony at around 3pm.
The Shinjo Festival allows visitors to enjoy three things at once: floats, historical picture scrolls and traditional performing arts. It is worth a visit.

https://yamagatakanko.com/en/festivals/detail_2991.html

https://www.instagram.com/shinjomatsuri




What’s “Suneka”?~Cold winter, those guys will come again.~Suneka

Introduction

On a cold winter’s day. It is said that a mysterious monster appears along the coast of the Tohoku region—but only on that particular day, and only that night. Rumour has it that the monster enters people’s homes and attacks children. What’s more, the government is said to acknowledge the monster’s existence. Apparently, its name is Suneka. What on earth is it? I set out immediately to investigate.



Date: 15th January every year
Location: Yoshihama, Sanriku town, Ofunato city, Iwate prefecture
Access: Shin-Hanamaki 新花巻 by Shinkansen from Tokyo. From there transfer to the Kamaishi Line for Kamaishi 釜石. From there, transfer to the Sanriku Railway for Yoshihama 吉浜. Or take the Ofunato line from Ichinoseki 一関 to Kesennuma 気仙沼 and transfer to Mori 盛. From there, take the Sanriku Railway to Yoshihama. It takes about 3 hours from Tokyo to Shin-Hanamaki and Ichinoseki. From there, it is about 2 hours to the nearest Sanriku Railway station. Another 30 minutes to Yoshihama.
Flights to Hanamaki Airport are available, and shuttle buses run from the airport to Hanamaki Airport Station, Morioka Station, and Kitakami Station. The ride takes about 10 to 20 minutes to each destination.

Sneka is one of the visiting deities (Raiho-Shin) featured in the folklore of Iwate Prefecture. What exactly are visiting deities? A group of “Raiho-shin (visiting deity)” folk rituals were added at 2018 to UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Raiho-shin are masked and disguised deities who visit the human village from the other world at certain times of the year. Namahage* in Akita prefecture is one of the good examples of Raiho-shin.
A total of 10 events were registered. Suneka is one of them. It appears in Iwate Prefecture, the neighbor of Namahage’s Akita Prefecture. It is an oddly shaped entity that is no less than a Namahage. Let’s take a closer look.

cf. https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/02/07/namahage/
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/02/07/namahage-sedo-matsuri/

this article based on 2026 visit

As the Suneka is an event rather than a festival, it is rather difficult to find out the details unless you know someone in the local area. However, I happened to come across something called the ‘Suneka Tour’. Apparently, it’s a new initiative that started this year. Preserving traditional events is becoming a pressing issue in many regions. Whilst securing people to carry on the traditions is the top priority, raising awareness is also a key factor.

in the Yoshihama station

Suneka is supposed to appear on a cold night on the 15th of January every year. They wear a straw raincoat and have abalone shells hanging from their waists. The sound of the shells is an indicator of their arrival. They also wear a small sword (deliberately dipped in bloodstain) and, for some reason, only one pair of children’s shoes. And on their backs they carry heavy-looking bales. And most distinctive of all are their masks. The masks are not animals themselves, but rather strangely deformed, adding to the eeriness of the scene.

The strange name Suneka comes from the word tagle for sunekawa. Sunekawa means the skin of the shin, and Taguru means to peel. It is the same as the name of the Namahage, which means to peel off the skin of the tibia. The difference is that on the Oga Peninsula, where the Namahage live, the shin skin is called Namomi, and here in the Yoshihama area of Iwate Prefecture, it is called Sunekawa.

lecture from specialist

Before the Sneca event began, there was also a lecture given by an expert.

In the evening, Suneka gather and at 5:00 p.m. a departure ceremony is held at the station. About 25 members in total. They went from house to house in some groups. It takes about two hours to visit about 300 households.

https://ofunato.jp/Summary/info/81

On that day, several families had gathered in front of the hall to experience their first taste of Suneka. Though they’d prefer not to have visitors come to their home, these families want their children to get to know Suneca.

In each house, a feast awaits them with their children. Then the sound of the shells of Sneeka and his friends begins to be heard, and even the sound of their sniffing comes closer. At this point, the children are already scared. They are almost afraid to even mention the name. When SUNEKA arrives, they scratches their nails in the yard and shakes the door. Then they come up to the house. Are there any crying children? Are they being good? Are you being a good boy? The children desperately appeal, “I’ll be a good boy. Then, when the time is right, a family member tells them, “Then we will give you some rice cakes and ask you to go home. It takes about 10 minutes, but for the children it seems like an eternity. Here is what makes Suneka unique. They never show their backs. So when they leave, they walk backward and head for the entrance.
In some areas, there are even child Suneka. Originally, this was done by a youth group, but due to a lack of manpower, the children began to take on this responsibility. They go around to kindergartens and nursery schools. Still, Suneka remains a formidable presence for the children in each place. We hear that older children sometimes stand up to him and say decisively, “No crying children, please go home.

In this way, children in this area grow up strong. According to the locals, this effect is valid for about three months.

Although the exact figures are unknown, its history dates back about 200 years., and although it was once interrupted by war, it was revived in the 1960s, and a preservation society was formed and continues to this day.

The Suneka members drove off to various locations. After they left, the chairman of the Preservation Society gave a detailed explanation to the remaining Suneka members.

If you look closely at the straw bale on the back, you can see that a child’s shoe has been attached to it. This is meant to suggest that a captured child kicked through the bale from the inside while struggling. It’s quite a detailed touch.
However, he mentioned that it’s been difficult to source straw lately.

The chairman says that the masks are basically carved from wood. However, he adds that there are no set rules regarding what the faces should look like. The only rule, he says, is that they must be mysterious.
Fifteen people took part in the tour that day. The organizers said they were surprised to find that more than half of the participants were from outside the prefecture.
I spoke with a few of them myself, and they were quite a formidable bunch. People who travel exclusively to remote islands, people who went all the way to Bali just to see the Barong dance (a masked dance), and so on.

Visitors might find themselves thinking, “Huh?” They might notice that, despite being a central town in the area, there aren’t many houses, and it feels somewhat desolate. The town does have a hotel and a small shopping mall.
But if you look closely, your eyes are drawn to a sign. It reads: “Once upon a time, a town of this size existed here.” Yes, this is one of the places that suffered the worst tsunami damage in the 2011 earthquake . The people have rebuilt the town to this point. And the tradition of “Suneka” has been passed down through the generations. Suneka has also served as a symbol of reconstruction.




Yamadera (Risshakuji-temple)

To get to Yamadera, take the Senboku Line from Sendai towards Yamagata. The journey takes about an hour. As the route winds through the mountains, cell phone reception is sometimes poor

The air around us was clearly different from the city in its tranquility.

The structure consists of a shrine and the main hall of the temple. This is the so-called Shinto-Buddhist syncretism, and is a common sight in Japan.

Matsuo Basho and Sora

a stone tablet inscribed with a haiku

Nowadays, haiku has spread all over the world. Matsuo Basho is at the top of the list. He stopped here on his long journey and composed his famous haiku here. Next to him is Sora, with whom he shared his journey.

Niou-mon (Niou-gate) 仁王門

Godai-do hall 五大堂

Okunoin 奥の院

After the Godaido Hall, we came to Okunoin (the inner sanctuary). This is the highest point of the mountain temple. There is also a path around here that spreads out to the left and right.

In the past, this area was dominated by the Mogami clan, a rival to the Date clan, which had grown in power mainly in Sendai to the east. A hall dedicated to them has been built here.

Down from here.

The path cut through the deep, deep cliffs is also a path of prayer.




Namahage Sedo Festival

Date: 18:00 ~past 20:00, second weekend (Friday~Sunday), Feburuary every year,
Location       Shinzan shrine, Oga city in Akita prefecture
Acces: It takes about 50 minutes from Akita to Oga by Oga Line. From there, take the toll shuttle bus for about 40 minutes.

秋田県

男鹿半島

なまはげ像

Namahage is the most famous of all the traditional events that use traditional masks. Originally, this event has been performed only in a very limited area, the Oga Peninsula in Akita Prefecture. But now it has become a representative icon of Akita Prefecture, welcoming passengers at Akita Station alongside the Akita Dog and Kanto Festival (the summer festival). It can be classified as a “visiting god” event. Like Santa Claus, he appears only at certain times of the year to bring good fortune to the people. Most of the original events take place on the night of New Year’s Eve, and since Namahage groups visit private homes, it is difficult for anyone outside of the community to see them. Therefore, as a tourist project, the festival was created in 1964 by combining the original festival of the Shinzan shrine with Namahage. This is the Sedo Festival.

秋田駅改札
The Akita station

秋田駅周辺
around The Akita station

There is a designated train (only on weekends) and a regular train to Oga station, and a paid bus service from there. Buses run sequentially as soon as the seats are full.
The venue is the Shinzan Shrine, a short walk from the parking lot. If you arrive early, there is also the Roadside Station called “Ogar” (front of the Oga station) and the Namahage Museum near the venue. The Namahage Museum is a must-see. Not only does it have Namahage goods, but it also has over 100 Namahage from around the region on display.

なまはげ館
The Namahage museum

You can also watch the following you tube videohttps://youtu.be/tKpC2YpuvHA
                            https://youtu.be/RRG1ft4RhkE
https://youtu.be/owqMaDMqG1Y

The event starts around 6:00 in the evening. There will be a reenactment of the Namahage event, Namahage dancing, Namahage drumming, etc., and finally the highlight will be when the Namahage come down from the mountain with torches. This is followed by a rampage of Namahage in the village, where various Namahage used in the actual region appear. You are welcome to take pictures with them, so don’t hesitate.
However, there is one thing to note. This is the middle of winter. Akita Prefecture is known for its heavy snowfall. Therefore, there is so much snow that you can sink into the snow up to your ankles in Akita City, while at the venue the snow is trampled and hard as ice, making it very slippery. Be sure to take precautions against the snow!

会場

なまはげ太鼓

なまはげ下山

なまはげ乱入

On the way back, the bus will take you to Oga Station or Oga Onsen (hot spring). You are going to arrive in Akita around 10:00 or 11:00 pm.
It’s not a bad idea to relax and unwind at Oga Onsen. The hot spring would surely relax you in a snowy landscape in the middle of winter. Don’t let yourself be troubled by the Namahage coming into in your dreams.

Prefer: https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/02/07/namahage-sedo-matsuri/ Namahage Sedo Matsuri
https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/02/07/namahage/ Namahage
    https://oganavi.com/sedo/en/ Official site




Komatsu hounen Shishiodori

http://www.e-okitama.net/?p=log&l=291894&m=kawanishi

Date: 16th and 27th, August
Location: Oaza Kamikomatsu, Kawanishi city, Higashi-Okitama district, Yamagata prefecture (Daikoin-temple and Suwa shrine)
Access: 15 minutes walk from Uzen Komatsu station

Yamagata Prefecture has a wide variety of lion and deer (both shishi) dances. Among them, in the southern region where this lion dance is performed, the three lion dances commonly seen in the Kanto region are popular. The faces of the shishi are Kanto-style, and the way ”Hana-gasa (the flower hats)” accompanies is also very similar.. There is a reason why the lion dance of this small region is so popular among people. It is the performance jumping through the fire ring.

History and composition

It is said that the lion dance was started by the local people about 1,100 years ago to comfort a high priest who had escaped to this area after being defeated in his interpretation of a Buddhist doctrine at the capital. In the Edo period (1603-1868), the lords who ruled the area encouraged simplicity and frugality. Therefore, dancing was forbidden except in years of good harvest. So that is why “Hounen 豊年 (harvest Year)” was added to the name.
Ten people make up a group. All of them wear hanagasa (flower hat) and carry drums on their stomachs. They are called “nakadachi,” “saotome,” and “hanagasa”. Each of them has a different color costume. And one person called “Matoi-mochi (a person holding the “Matoi (a sign of a group) who does not take part in the dance) joins them. In the photo, the one in the pale purple costume is the “hanagasa,” and the one in front of them is the “nakadachi.

The dance is divided into three parts: the “introduction,” the “development,” and the “finale/climax,” and it takes about 50 minutes to go through the whole dance. Therefore, usually only the “development” is performed. Most of the content is about farming. There is also a scene where a wild boar gets lost among the flowers. There is a scene in which a mother lioness loses sight of her child. In other words, the ring of fire is used to express the feeling of not being afraid of fire for the sake of the child.

Jump through flaming hoop

On the day of the festival, performers will act at about five locations in the town. Not all of them involves the performance of jumping through the flaming hoop. Currently, junior high school students are learning the lion dance in order to preserve their town’s traditional folk performing art. They will also perform, but for safety reasons, the junior high school students don’t use the fire ring.

http://okibun.jp/log/?l=329334 (from the same in the left source)

It is always held on the 16th in Daiko-in, in front of the community center at night, and on the 27th at Suwa Shrine.

It’s not just about going through the hoops. The fire is on, so it’s important to work in coordination with the person holding the wheel. If the fire is about to shift even a little, the person holding the wheel must be able to instantly shift it to make up the subtle difference. It’s also nerve-wracking not to hurt the performer’s limbs because the place performer jumps to is either concrete or hard ground.

https://www.town.kawanishi.yamagata.jp/kyoiku/bunka/komatsuhounen-shishiodori.html



Report: Tono festival ~Day 2

Did you sleep well last night?

It was fun meeting you all. I also got to hear a lot of old stories.

I’ll have some time today to show you around town a bit.

I didn’t notice it yesterday, but Komainu (the guardian dogs) here have kappa-like plates on their heads.

It is commonly known as “Kappa Komainu. After all, kappa are the biggest stars in Tono. Tono is also famous for having many other mysterious legends in the region. This stone monument commemorates a legend about a fox.

Perhaps it was because I had seen too much of the deer dance, even the clouds looked like deer horns.

Well, we’d better get back. Today’s main event is the dedication of the performing arts at the Tono Hachimangu Shrine on the other side of the station.

But that starts at noon, doesn’t it?

The performing arts groups are going to the shrine, to present their art and do “Kadozuke” again.

Road to Hachimangu Shrine

This is how they slowly made their way to the shrine, performing tricks from about 10:00 am.

In large facilities such as hospitals, groups come in one after another. It’s a sort of ”Kadozuke”.

Still, I found it a strange sight to see deers, a kind of demonic transformation, walking around the city in broad daylight. Yokai and demons usually appear at night, don’t they?

That’s the charm of a festival, isn’t it? On the day of the festival, even if there are demons and kappa next to you, they won’t notice, just like us. While I was saying this, I realized that we were already at the shrine.

At the shrine

The first thing that takes place here is “yabusame” (horseback archery). The three most popular folk tales in Tono are Kappa, Zashiki-warashi (the strange child who brings good fortune to the house he dwells in) and Oshirasama. Do you know the story of Oshira-sama?

I haven’t heard that one.

In Tono, horses and people used to live together. Horses were like family. One day, a girl fell in love with a horse. But her father didn’t approve of it. Finally, he cut off the horse’s head and killed it. The grieving daughter ascended to heaven with the horse in front of her father. When her father saw what had happened, he regretted his actions and enshrined her as “Oshira-sama” for a long time.

Yabusame

Yabusame is a game in which horseback riders run and shoot at targets with arrows. In the old days, it was a requirement for samurai. It is held all over Japan, but Tono is special because it is a horse producing area.

I hear a familiar sound coming from upstairs.

In front of the main hall of the shrine

I thought I could hear sounds coming from upstairs, but there is also a performance going on in front of the main shrine during the yabusame.

Look. Here comes the “Wakumizu deer dance,” the only self-drumming style deer dance in Tono.

Unlike other drumming style groups, the performer has a short-hemmed costume. In addition, the feathers on their back are also bird feathers.

It is an art form that has been handed down from the nearby Esashi district and has a history of 150 years.

Parade at the riding ground

After the yabusame, the parade finally started.

There were so many people watching.

Not only the spectators, but also the people from the groups that are not in the parade are waiting together.

Free session

There was some kind of drumming coming from up there again.

Yes. During the parade, there are also various performances going on up there. This sound is the deer dance, right? Let’s go see it.

It’s all very exciting. It’s full of free movement that we don’t usually see.

That’s the power of the “Tane fukube” as a leader.

The deer performers seemed to be very spontaneous. The deer’s antlers were almost hitting Tane fukube, but he was able to avoid them at just the right angle. It’s amazing.

Now he is drawing another performer into the dance. This one didn’t seem to be a very good dancer.

He is always in charge of the taiko drumming.

The deer are taking advantage of this and are overwhelming him. Oh, the deer have finally eaten him. The dance itself is just a simple movement, but it’s amazing how good or bad it can be. I guess there are masters of everything.

A deer dancer I know told me about it. He is the son of a former master of the dance, but he said that lately it has become a little less interesting. He said that the master was a person who could improvise and perform various free movements. I guess that’s exactly what he was like.

It is incredible. Everyone in the audience called for an encore.

I’m glad I was able to show you something good today. Now it’s time to go back down and watch the parade.

Others

Kagura is also performed at the same time at Kagura-den.

Today, we have a rich variety of Tono traditional performing arts at Tono shrine. We can pick and choose whatever we want.

Konsei-sama

So it’s the women who ride the mikoshi here. How unusual.

All the girls are cute too.

Stop it, stop it. That’s why people misunderstand kappa as rather lewd.

And Good-bye time

police box

It’s time to say good bye.

It’s been fun. I hope you’ll come to Fukuzaki someday.

In Tono, the trees are already beginning to change color. Once the festival is over, winter will be just around the corner. But the festival season will come again. Please come and visit this typical region in Japan. You might even be able to meet a kappa!




Report: Tono festival ~Day 1, at the city

Date: the 3rd Saturday and Sunday, September, every year
Location: Tono city and Tono Hachiman shrine, Iwate prefecture
Access: 1 hour from Kitakami, 2 hour from Morioka by local train. 3 hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen and change at Shin-Hanamaki, 1hour by local train.

Tono has many strange stories

Tono is a small mountain village about an hour’s train ride away from the center of Iwate Prefecture. Its main industry was agriculture for a long time, but in recent years, tourism and hospitality services have been increasing in proportion. Tono has the largest cultivation area of hops, the raw material for beer, in Japan.

Tale of Tono

When Japanese people hear the name Tono, the first thing that comes to mind is “Tono Monogatari 遠野物語 (the tale of Tono)”.

About 100 years ago, there was a scholar named Yanagita Kunio 柳田国男. He was amazed at the number of legends and folk tales in the region, and compiled them into a book. In the preface to the book, he wrote enthusiastically, “Let the stories of this mountain village make the people of the plains shudder”. In fact, the book became a bestseller, and it still holds a place in people’s hearts. Yanagita thus became the founder of Japanese folklore. The “Tale of Tono” contains many strange stories, such as the story of a girl who was married to a horse, and the story of a man who spent time with a giant in the mountains. The most famous of these characters is the kappa. Even today, there are still many places in Tono where legends about kappa remain. This is the reason why Tono is called the home of folk tales.

Kappa

*Kappa is one of the most famous Japanese “yokai”. The approximate image of a kappa is that it lives in a river, has a shell on its back, hair on its head, and a dish in the center of its head. When the water in the dish runs out, it dies. They have waders on their hands and feet and are good swimmers. They are about the size of a child. They lean out of the river and drag people and horses into the river. Sometimes they come out at dusk and say, “Let’s play Sumo”. Their favorite foods are human liver and cucumbers. Since they are all over the country, they are called by different names in different places. “Gataro” is one of them.

Written by Toriyama Sekien (1718~88)

Written by Akutagawa (famous novelist)

Let’s go with Kappa

Tono is also a treasure house of folk performing arts. All of them come together once a year to perform at the Tono Festival. The festival takes place over two days. On this day, the normally quiet mountain village welcomes a large number of people and becomes spectacular. If a kappa from this area were to guide us through the festival, it might look something like this.

Day 1

scene: in front of Tono station

Today is the long awaited day of the annual festival. Now, it looks like Kappa living in Tono (named Wooden) is going to welcome guests soon.

8:00 in the morning. It’s almost time for the guests to arrive. Oh, here he is.

Hey, I’ve finally arrived at the Kappa Sanctuary. I’ve been looking forward to it.

Welcome from far away Fukusaki-town, Hyogo prefecture.

*Yes, he is Gajiro, a kappa from Fukusaki town in Hyogo Prefecture. There is a little explanation as to why he appeared this time. Fukusaki town is actually the hometown of Yanagita Kunio, who wrote “The Tale of Tono”. In his memoirs of his hometown, he wrote about the existence of a kappa named “Gataro” in the town. In Fukusaki Town, Gajirō, who is set up as Gatarō’s younger brother, plays an active role.

I have heard you’re busy every day.

That’s right. I work at the pond showing up every fifteen minutes during the day from nine in the morning until five in the evening every day.

*Explanation again. Fukuzaki town has installed objects of kappa and other yokai (Japanese strange monsters) throughout the town to promote the town. In particular, the main pond and the station in front of the station are attracting a lot of attention because of the kappa jumping out of the pond.
cf. http://www.fukusakikankou.jp/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hix5SerE19g

It sounds tough. A lot of kappa friends are waiting for you, too. Take your time and enjoy yourself.

Kappa in front of the Tono station

Kappa at the “Kappa pond”

scene: Tono town

There’s still time to walk around town a bit. Today I’ll show you the south side of the station.
This is the area where the museums are. Most of the travelers stay here first.

Where is Kappa-pond, where are kappa said to be?

It’s on the north side of the station. It’s a bit far, so you should rent a bicycle or drive.

I’m starting to hear some amusing sounds.

It’s already nine in the morning. It might have started by now. Let’s go back.

The content can also be enjoyed on video→https://youtu.be/lOEuoTPm7tw

There are people all over the place. What are you doing?

This is a custom called “Kadozuke 門付け,” in which people go from house to house to bless and receive congratulations. This used to be a very common custom in the past, but now we can see very few places where this custom still exists.

Not only the deer dance, but also the Kagura groups do the gating. The group holding the lion’s head is the kagura group. In Tono, the lion’s head is not worn on the head, but is usually held in the hand.

Parade~Deer Dance

The content can also be enjoyed on video→https://youtu.be/NGlbg81BCuc

The first tengu with long noses came strolling in.

This is not a Tengu, but a Sarutahiko, a god of guidance. The Sarutahiko of each kagura group lead the procession together.

But that’s a lot of people. And there are a lot of foreigners, too.

Currently, Tono City has friendship cities with Salerno, Campania, Italy, and Chattanooga, Tennessee, USA. And Tono has about 60 performing arts groups.

But there are so many banners, aren’t there?

There are about 60 performing arts groups active in Tono.

Deer dance

Kagura

Nambu dance

Sansa dance

All things aside, the main thing is the deer dance. In addition, the Kagura dance with a shishi head, the Nambu dance with gorgeous costumes, and the Sansa dance are active. You can see many other interesting things.

But I heard that the deer dance is the most famous.

Structure of the Deer Dance

Yes. There are two types of deer dances in Iwate Prefecture, one is the self-drumming style and the other is the drape-curtain style (the dancer are holding a drape-curtain while performing). And Tono is the representative of the drape-curtain style.

Tane-fukube and Nakataiko

Katanakake

Let’s look at the basic structure. At the head of the group is the leader, called “Tanefukube,” who oversees the entire group. The “Fukube” group follows him. Behind them is Nakataiko group. They are holding a tassel in their hands. Next is “the Katanakake”. They have a sword on their waist, and sometimes play with a deer (shishi).

Nakadate

And finally, Shishi appears. First comes the “Nakadate”, a few people in the group who have exellent skills. Then comes the flutes and drums.

Finally, a large group of Shishi arrive. All roles are based on 12 people. So if you were to perform as traditionally done, you would need 60~70 people, but there are hardly that many nowadays.
In addition, I want you to pay attention to the top of Shishi’s head. There are various designs between the horns, which are fun to look at.

That’s so Tono as can be expected. There are also kappa.

Other performances besides the deer dance

The content can also be enjoyed on video→https://youtu.be/xdmoOoWz3TM

Oh, tiger is coming over here.

It’s a tiger dance. It’s performed mostly in coastal areas, but there are also some in Tono. It looks like a lion dance.

I’m wondering why the tiger dance has been handed down to people who aren’t in Japan.

Sansa Odori and Nanbu Odori, right? The Sansa dance is based on drums and flutes and has a light-hearted feel, while the Nanbu dance is characterized by its elegance. The Nanbu Odori in particular is said to have been created by inviting a performing artist from Kyoto.

All women look pretty, and men look rugged and dynamic.

For example, in the same way that children in Tokyo learn English or swimming , girls in Tono yearn to dance the Sansa or Nanbu Odori dance, and boys try the deer dance.

There are so many different generations here, it’s a good social learning experience.

Tono daikagura

What a strange group of people we have here.

It’s Tono Daikagura. There used to be masters of the dance, and it is still handed down to this day.

It’s such a strange music. It seemed to add to the suspicious atmosphere.

Corps de Deer Dance

You’re not tired yet? The biggest highlight of the day is the big deer dance that will start around three in the afternoon. All the groups of deer dancers from the previous day perform their dances at the same time. You can’t miss this.

I can now hear the sound of loud drums and flutes.

Wow, here it comes. They seem to spring up from behind me.

The town is completely occupied by deer right now, isn’t it?
People are now just a supporting cast.

My head is already dizzy. I don’t know if I’m awake in real life or just dreaming.

This is the festival. During this time, no matter how much we make noise, no one will pay attention to us.

Kagura theater

The content can also be enjoyed on video→https://youtu.be/Fx0clpoxjp0

In the evening, there’ll be a kagura performance in front of the city hall by the street. There are more than 20 groups in the city alone.

That’s Tono, known as a treasure of folk performing arts in Iwate prefecture.

End of the 1st day

It’s still crowded, isn’t it?

There’ s a lot of fooling around until past nine at night.

This makes it hard to stay in the town of Tono.

I guess people have to book at least a month in advance to stay here.

What if they can’t stay here?

In that case, I think it would be safer to stay in the surrounding areas. Kitakami, Hanamaki, Kamaishi, etc. All of these places are about an hour away by train. I recommend Kitakami. Kitakami is the economic center of the region and many businessmen come here, so there is no shortage of accommodations.

What about us?

Of course, there will be a welcome party at Kappa Pond this evening. Oh, and don’t touch the cucumbers. It’s a trap to catch kappa.
Let’s get going.

to be continued….




Report: Michinoku Folk performing Arts Festival~Kagura

 Michinoku Folk Performing Arts Festival. Kagura is the centerpiece of the festival, along with the Oni Sword Dance and the Deer Dance. Here in the Tohoku region, there are many unique kagura performances. One of the pleasures of this festival is to be able to see some of them all at once.

Michinoku folk performing arts festival https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/10/18/michinoku-traditional-performing-art-festivaloni-kenbai/

“Hayachine kagura”

 The first thing that comes to mind when talking about Iwate’s Kagura is the “Hayachine Kagura”, which is dedicated to the Hayachine Shrine located between the cities of Hanamaki and Tono, next to Kitakami City. This form of kagura, which is said to have been spread by “yamabushi” in the past, is now listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. The surrounding area is dotted with a number of kagura performances that follow in its footsteps (Its number is more than 100). It is so popular that many people come at one time mostly using tourist buses to the annual festival at the original Hayachimine Shrine.
Its greatest feature is the good tempo of the dance. The dancer dances at a good tempo by the sound of drums and “tebiragane” (Palm-sized cymbals), which is beaten without a break, bending slightly forward and slumping at the waist. And sometimes the sound of feet stamping on the floor works as a perfect accent. The costumes are also distinctive, the most noticeable being called “torikabuto” like the “Eboshi”(an old hat, long and narrow and high) with a bird on top of it. And underneath, feather-like things hang from both sides, flapping up and down in response to the dance. It is also common to leave the jacket hanging below the waist.

 

“Daijo kagura”

 Since there are many forms of Kagura in Iwate Prefecture, it is up to luck what kind of Kagura can be seen at any given time, but there are also many forms of Kagura that are a fusion of Buddhism and Shinto. Due to Japan’s polytheistic beliefs, the country is tolerant of foreign cultures in terms of religion. Where there was originally Shinto, Buddhism was introduced. At that time, the Japanese handled it like this. The theory was that the Japanese gods were the manifestation of the Buddhist gods in different forms. These are called “Daijo Kagura” or “Hoin Kagura” and are characterized by their strong influence on Buddhism compared to other types of Kagura.

 However, the degree of this varies greatly from one kagura to another and from one performance to another. First of all, I would like you to see a performance called “Maou”. This is performed by Kamiyado Kagura, not a demon, but a Buddha who has the power to exterminate demons in Buddhism.

 

 The next play, “Kanemaki” is based on the story of a woman who desperately wants to visit a Kanemaki temple where women are not allowed to worship. However, according to tradition, if she breaks the rule something terrible will happen. Will it happen?
A visiting, slightly unreliable-looking monk is suddenly attacked by a monster. This was a woman’s altered form. The monk managed to dispatch the monster with his magical powers.

 

 The next show is called “Teito”. First, an attractive young woman appears. Then a strange man with a comedic mask appears. He has been chasing after the woman. From there, a funny exchange with the drummer begins. The man dances, but at first his rhythm is too fast and he dances riotously. The man asks him to slow down, but this time the rhythm is more leisurely. The man eventually collapses and falls asleep.
By this point, it has almost nothing to do with Buddhism. Some of these performances are for entertainment.

“Makisawa kagura” (one of “Nambu kagura”)

 Finally, I would like to introduce “Makisawa Kagura” of Nambu Kagura. Nambu Kagura is structured like an opera, with drummers singing a song and advancing the story. When the characters appear on stage, they themselves sing and talk as if they were singing. Then the song continues, and so on.
 And if you look closely, you will see an old man next to him striking hand cymbals, and next to him is another young child striking hand cymbals single-mindedly. Worried about the heat, he was just beating the gong incessantly, with a towel on his head. I asked him about it, and he said he was three years old. There are probably three generations of parents and children standing in a row. When he grows up, he will follow in the footsteps of his grandfather and father.
This is not a rare sight in Tohoku. There is no doubt that the economic development of the large city of Kanto is advancing, and its convenience is unrivaled. But here in the Tohoku region, I feel that something that has been forgotten in the big city is definitely alive and well preserved. I am very jealous of the Tohoku region.