A Festival of Remembrance, Performing Arts of Remembrance ~The Sanriku Minato Festival 三陸港まつり

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Date; 16th August every year
Location; Enmamji-temple and Okirai fishing port Namiita, Okirari, Sanriku-chō, Ofunato City, Iwate Prefecture
Access; It takes about two and a half to three hours to get from Tokyo to Shin-Hanamaki by Shinkansen (bullet train). From there, it takes about two hours to get to Kamaishi by conventional train. From there, change to the Sanriku Railway to reach Sanriku. The journey takes about 30 minutes.

Urahama nenbutsu kenbai instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/DcBTNFYE3SM/

This article is based on visit of 16th, August, 2018

The memory of the earthquake will never fade

Sanriku railway

From Kamaishi, I set off for Sanriku on the local Sanriku Railway. This area is famous for its rias coastline, and the rugged terrain is clearly visible from the train window. These areas suffered extensive damage in the 2011 tsunami; in the regional centre, Ofunato City, the town was almost completely destroyed.

Okirai coast

Unfortunately, it was raining that day. With the event in doubt, people gathered at the community centre, which served as the alternative venue in case of rain. Inside the centre, paintings depicting local folk arts from the surrounding area were on display.

Enmanji -temple

The entrance of Enmanji -temple

Following the Noh performance at the community centre from half past three in the afternoon,, the rain fortunately stopped, and the event moved to the neighbouring Enman-ji venue, where the local folk arts performance began around half past four..

First up is the Urahama Deer Dance. The Deer Dance is broadly divided into two styles: one where the performers carry drums and one where they do not; here, the performers carry drums. Although the costumes and dance styles are similar across the drum-carrying tradition, the sheer power of the performance never fails to impress, no matter how many times one sees it.
*For further details https://discoverdeeperjapan.com/2020/11/30/michinoku-traditional-folk-performing-festival-the-deer-dance/

There are two distinct styles of sword dance: one with a strong emphasis on performance, and the other with a pronounced focus on mourning. This Kawaharara Kenbai (sword dance) is a performing art with a strong memorial character. It is often referred to as ‘Nembutsu Kenbai’. Whilst its origins are unclear, it is frequently described as a ritual to honour the souls of samurai who fell in battle.

Consequently, towards the end, the spirits often line up in a single file and attack the central figure performing the memorial rites, but the story usually concludes with each spirit being laid to rest one by one before departing.

The Urahama Sword Dance is, without a doubt, the local traditional art form. It is said that these traditional local performing arts were the first to spring into action after the earthquake, offering encouragement to the local people.

Shortly after 6 pm, the group set off for their next destination, Okirai Fishing port.

As the sun was setting, the memorial ceremony began.

In a truly rare occurrence, they performed a dance that ritualised the offering of incense. This, one might say, is the very essence of the Nenbutsu sword dance.

Others

The programme featured special performances by artists from South Korea, as well as new Noh plays incorporating the local dialect.



By the time the event draws to a close with another performance of the local Urahama sword dance, it is already past nine o’clock. However, for the tourists, this is where the last train departs. It’s about time we were to take our leave. I’m sure I’ll have sweet dreams.

*Although the performing groups change each time, it seems that the Urahama Kenbai, Urahama deer dance and Kawahara Kenbai appear at every event.

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