Wishes and amusements of average people ~Utunomiya Futaarayama shrine

DAte: 28 days in January, May, and September each year
Location: Babadori 1-1-1, Utsunomiya City, Tochigi Pref
Access: 10 minutes walk from JR Utsunomiya station, 5 minutes walk from Tobu Utsunomiya station. 5 minutes by bus from JR station. Get off at Babacho Futaarasanjinja-mae bus stop. Utsunomiya is about 2 hours from Tokyo (1 hour by Shinkansen)
This article is based on 2018
Kanto kagura

Here we introduce a typical form of regional Kagura from the Kanto region.
Since kagura is often based on mythology. So it can be divided into two main categories depending on which mythology is the focus. The first is the Opening the Ama-no-Iwato, the resurrection of Amaterasu, the sun goddess. The second is the extermination of the Orochi by the malevolent god Susanoo. In western Japan, Iwami Kagura in Western Shimane Prefecture (Iwami district), which is rich in entertainment value, has had a great influence. The extermination of Orochi, giant snakes is very popular. On the other hand, in eastern Japan, including Kanto, which is also influenced by the eastern part of Shimane Prefecture (Izumo district). In Izumo (and Kyushu region), opening the Iwato is often regarded as important. And while Iwami Kagura has thoroughly devised ways to enhance its entertainment value and keep up with the times, Kanto Kagura has carefully maintained the original Izumo form.
Utsunomiya Futaarayama shrine


cf. Futaarayama shrine HP →http://futaarayamajinja.jp/en/futaara/
This time we would like to introduce the kagura that has been handed down by Futaarayama shrine in Utsunomiya. The shrine is located almost in the center of Utsunomiya City, the prefectural capital. This shrine is the cultural center of the city where numerous events are held. The character for 二 in Futaarayama 二荒山 means 2. This is derived from the fact that it once sat on a mountain with two peaks. However, as the area developed, the mountain was split in two, and today it is no longer a mountain. This is proof of the prosperity of the area.
official site of the shrine http://futaarayamajinja.jp/schedule-e/
Hachiman god vs Devils King


Kagura is said to have originally been learned from Edo (present-day Tokyo). However, whereas the Edo version retains a prestige that could be mistaken for Noh, this version remains in a truly rustic form.
For example, there is a performance called “Hachiman-no-mai, Hachiman’s story” in which demons appear. According to the commentary, this is the story of Hachiman Maro’s extermination of a great demon king who has come from a foreign land and is tormenting the people of this country. Hachiman is the name of a well-known god of war. It is easy to guess that Hachiman Maro is the personification of this god. On the other hand, the demon is set as the Devil King. If this were Iwami Kagura, it would spew fire and rampage violently. However, the demon here rubs its hands together, as if shivering from the cold. And when the hero Hachiman appears, he is easily outwitted. He was simply taken by surprise. The ogre then shows a fighting posture. But what do you think? The demon is cornered and hides behind a pillar. Isn’t this the place where the clown, Hyottoko, is supposed to be?


In the end, the demons are easily subdued and dispersed without any good points. The battle, which would have lasted nearly an hour in Iwami Kagura, was over in only about 10 minutes here. This simplicity and unsophisticated style is both a bad point and a good point of Kanto Kagura.
A woman who is turned into an ogre





Stronger demon also appears. A woman who is fascinated by a mirror of a young man turns into an ogre. First of all, the face is simple. They are not as artistic as Noh masks, nor do they have the power of a master craftsman who has poured his heart and soul into his work. This is not to say that this is a bad thing. On the contrary, it can be said that we can sense the pure appeal for entertainment of the people of that time.
Break before 12:00 after digesting four performances; resumes at 1:00. The shrine is in the middle of town, so there is no need to eat.
Open the “Amano-Iwato”


The second half of the show continues with a slightly longer performance. The opening of daytime is “Ama-no-Iwato-Open*”. This performance is an all-star show, so even if you missed the first half, you can get a general idea of what is going on by watching this performance.
In this performance, Amaterasu is replaced by a mere mirror. For the common people, they would rather see the scene where Tadikarao (the most powerful man of the gods who opened the door of the rock where Amaterasu hid and threw it far away) throws Iwato away than the myth that the sun has returned.
Ebisu and Hyottoko featuring an Octopus


After that, the Ebisu is already out. I am sure this is familiar to those of you who read this site. To explain briefly, Ebisu is a representative of the god who brings good luck to people. He is popular in kagura because he often actually brings good fortune (goods). Catch a fish anytime
Here, the Hyottoko (the comedic characters in kagura) appear, and they seem to be more the stars of the show.


As soon as one Hyottoko stands up, the other pulls out a chair. That’ s classic comedy. This kind of performance seems to be common all over the world.

The performance becomes incomprehensible when the Hyottoko catches an octopus while he is supposed to catch a sea bream. Then they play Sumo (Japanese wrestling) with the octopus. Moreover, Ebisu, who is supposed to play the leading role, acts as the referee. Anything is possible.
When it’s over, it’s time to go. Susanoo’s extermination of the serpent. The officials threatened the children who were misbehaving under the stage, saying, “You will be eaten by the snake if you stay there. It seems to have that effect.
Orochi ~just like a old monster movie


Here, “Orochi” is called “O-hebi-sama. It is not wrong to say hebi (snake), since in mythology it is a serpentine monster with eight heads and eight tails. O” and ” sama” are honorific titles.
Briefly, the story begins with Susanoo’s encounter with an elderly couple who are sadly doomed to dedicate their daughter to Orochi every year. Susanoo plans to give them poisoned sake to drink and exterminate them while they are at it. So the old man come out first. So far so good. But then, for some reason, a sake brewer who does not appear in other kagura appears. And he is Hyottoko. Nor does this hyottoko just make sake. It also plays a very active role in being attacked by the Orochi that appear. Normally, the main cast would be the princess and her parents, but for some reason, the main cast here is the sake brewer, who is a third party, so to speak. Although simplified, the main characters on this stage are the father, Orochi, Susanoo, and Hyottoko. And only Hyottoko is on the stage the whole time!


Finally, “Orochi” is here. It looks like something out of an old monster movie. Hyottoko is oblivious. This is another classic performance. The children shout, ” Orochi is right behind you!
After such a classic exchange, Susanoo defeats Orochi. Easily. After Susanoo leaves, it is again Hyottoko who ends the stage by imitating him. Every place is different, and every item is different. It is clear that the importance of each performance changes depending on the region.
At the end, people involved in the event hand out mochi (rice cakes) to the audience. The event ends around 3:30.
There were five performances in the morning and three in the afternoon. There are now thirteen different types of performances being preserved.



